rick60

I agree with Yellow Lark. I have an old diagnostic manual that would be of use to you. Email your address to me at rln31455@yahoo.com and I'll send it to you. The charts are simple to follow. It won't take long to diagnose the problem with the correct diagnostic charts. it could be a pick up coil, ign module or wiring problem. The only way to find out is to follow the charts. It is easier than you think!

I for got to mention that there are five hubcaps that are scripted V-8. All of the caps are dented and scratched. Nice patina for the old school hot rod guys.

These wheels were removed from a 31 model A recently. They were on the car since the 1950s. He believed they were form a 1932 Ford. Not sure of the actual application. There is a set of five. They are in nice condition. They are not rusty, nice patina of old paint. There are a few rim dents. They are 17 inches in diameter with five lug nut holes. The tires date from WWII. The owner stated that there are a few WWII synthetic tires. Owner was wondering what price to ask when selling these wheels.

The Model A has been moved from its resting place of 50 years in a Berwyn Il garage! It is now in northwestern Wisconsin. The son of the owner is the new caretaker. Plans are to get it running and drive it as is. We installed the correct 1931 Model A wheels with new tires. The car rolled nicely. Nothing was frozen after sitting 50 years. I had an appointment and was not able to see the car loaded on the trailer. The pictures show the car as saw sunlight in 50 years!

Here is the Il toll calculator. Illinois Tollway

Try Northwestern Auto Supply in Grand Rapids MI. They are an old time auto parts store with great counter men. 800 704 1078

Excessive crankshaft end play can manifest itself as a rear main seal oil leak. Be sure to measure the end play before the engine is completely disassembled. Good luck!

You should not have to use a lot of torque to secure the filter nut. Inspect the sealing surface in the float bowl for nicks or burrs. Also be sure that it is not cross threaded causing the nut to be on an angle, not allowing the seal to properly seat. Good luck.

Nice car! Great patina! Can you post pictures of the interior? Do you know the history of the car? I love cars like yours. They receive as much attention as a restored show car. Good job getting it back on the road for others to enjoy!

If you have a parts car that is complete it should be relatively easy to do the swap.

These items will be donated to the AACA library. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, please post these items on oldspower. I would like these books to go to someone that will use them. If there is no interest from this post I will contact the AACA library to see if they are interested in these books.

Please see the Oldsmobile Buy/Sell forum

I recently discovered a few GM diagnostic manuals that will assist owners of mid '80s to mid '90s Oldsmobiles. #1) Delco Products dated January 1985. Includes rear wiper system,air strut dampeners,shock absorbers, power antennas, windshield wiper systems, headlamp actuator motors, idle speed control actuators and energy absorbers. #2 1981-1983 Computer Command Control (carburetor) 1982-1984 Electronic fuel injection and January 1984 Diagnosis charts. #3 Air Conditioning Controls...manual-vacuum-electric. Dated March 1990. #4 Testing Grounds-Why and How (Olds service alert) Dated December 1991. #5 $.#L (L35) CPI Fuel System Operation and Diagnosis Dated September 1991. #6 On-Board Diagnostics-Generation Two (OBD II). This book explains the use of the TECH 2. There is also some useful diagnostic information. Dated July of 1995. I see a lot of questions in the tech forums that apply to the charts in these books. These are not Oldsmobile specific. The manuals were provided to mechanics at the GM Training Center. These manuals often had revised diagnostic charts with the latest (corrected) information compared to the service manual. The manuals are FREE. I only ask you pay postage. I will be using USPS Priority Mail, $4.95 I can fit two or three in one envelope if you are interested in multiple books. Please email your choice of book indicating which # book you are interested in. . First come, first served. I work different hours than most people and don't have time to check my email on a daily basis. Please be patient. rln31455@yahoo.com Thanks. Rick

If you don't find any leaks using the dye, remove the blower motor resistor assy from the evaporator case and inspect the evaporator core. If the core is oil soaked and covered with debris the core is probably leaking. Good luck.

Sounds like a balance problem or worn shock absorbers. The tire is bouncing like a basketball causing the wear pattern.

I love the smell of an automotive repair shop. It is the best when you first arrive in the morning after the building has been close for the night.

Drive the vehicle on a smooth, level, straight road. Maintain a constant speed when the noise occurs. Slightly turn the wheel left and right. When turning to the right you are loading the left (driver) side. When turning to the left you are loading the right (passenger) side. If the noise diminishes the wheel that you are unloading most likely has a bad bearing. Good luck.

I installed a Pertronix unit in my car (Ford). All of the tune up adjustments were set to specs prior to the installation. After the installation of the Pertronix unit the car started faster with less cranking. idle quality was improved. I never checked the MPG. I think the Pertronix unit was a great improvement.

I just finished rebuilding a correct 352 for my 1960 Ford Sunliner. I did a complete rebuild including having the engine balanced. I also installed a NOS cam, lifters and oil pump. I dropped it in, timed the distributor and cranked it to get the oil pressure up. It started as if it had never been apart! It runs smooth at all RPM! The old engine had a vibration at 1200 to 1700 RPM. I'm very happy! I also rebuilt the steering gear box, installed power brakes and replaced the complete exhaust system. I installed the correct resonator and heat riser valve. My goal was to make the car as it left the factory.

In the mid '80s I worked at an Olds dealer. We sold and serviced a Custom Cruiser wagon to Mr. & Mrs. Berman. They own Superdawg. One day they arrived with a large heated box in the back of the wagon. There were enough Superdawgs in the box to feed everyone in the building, including the customers. It was a real treat! They are good people! Also, when ordering you must request a "Superdawg". Not a hot dog!

While riding shotgun...... How fast is this thing?

Fifteen years ago I was looking to purchase a '60 Ford convertible. I saw one listed for sale in OK. I made an offer that I thought was fair. Apparently, I insulted him. He absolutely refused any further conversation regarding the car. A year later he listed the car for the amount that I previously offered. I called back planning to offer the full amount. As soon as he realized he was talking to the person that made the offer a year ago, he hung up the phone. I figured that I would never own this car. A year after that I saw a '60 for sale in HMN. The photo looked familiar. It turned out to be the same car for sale. It was now in KY. I was able to purchase the car for $500 less than my offer to the seller in OK. I also saved another $400 in shipping the car to my house!

The earlier style 3.8 had issues with the timing chain. If it failed the valves would contact the pistons. This would damage the valve train and possibly the pistons and cylinders. If the timing chain is replaced as a maintenance item the engine will perform well for many miles.

Back in the 70s, when I first started working at a gas station, I asked my boss what the grey material was inside the engine. He stated that it was lead from the gas. Can anyone confirm this? It sure looks like lead. I recently rebuilt an engine that had not been run since the 70s. It also had the same grey material inside.