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YellowLark

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About YellowLark

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  1. A couple of years ago, someone posted nice clear color pictures of the '64 and '65 300-4 manifolds on www.v8buick.com. Looking at them side-by-side, it was evident that some passages needed to be blocked. Do more research, that info should be available.
  2. The only supplier is Poston Enterprises. There are differing reports from buyers as to how easy they fit. I have heard from multiple sources that the 340 stock exhaust manifolds are highly efficient, so that headers were not necessary unless you were building a race car.
  3. You can buy a generic auto fuel pump. Delco makes them, and they are available at local auto stores. You only need a low-pressure unit, not a racing model. I kept my stock fuel pump. It performs as the primary pump after the electric is used for starting. It provides redundancy to the system. If you buy a racing-type high-pressure electric unit, the stock pump will not be able to draw through it.
  4. MrEarl, Sounds like you have a toggle switch for the fuel pump which goes directly off the battery. I guess if you leave it on, it will draw down the battery, but probably will not cause fuel leakage.
  5. Why not have a local machine shop do it? Any rebuilt 340 would be a one-off job, not at all like the production-line rebuilt SBC 350's. If you know your old engine is rebuildable, and you get good refs for a shop, that's what I would recommend.
  6. The changes were in effect for 1972 American-sold cars. Basically, what changed was including parasitic devices like water pumps and alternators that would be in a production car, as opposed to a test engine on a stand. Several years ago, I read the specs for 1971 and 1972 for many popular engines, and the reduction in advertised horsepower was 22-25 percent. So, my 1966 engine with 260 hp would be sold in 1972 with 195 hp.
  7. Be very careful. These parts haven't been made in over 30 years. Many, many collectors would have paid top dollars for them years ago. Make sure you see them before buying.
  8. As with your "Pilot Car", your air cleaner decal appears to be one-of-a-kind. Hope you can someday find some documentation for your car.
  9. In three words, they don't exist. Haven't for decades. Many, many folks have tried to find any. Mill Direct stuff is sold by J C Whitney, and is usually bottom-of-panel patches.
  10. If grandma describes it as a "hardtop convertible", then it's a coupe, not a real convertible with a fold-down top. Actually, to be a "hardtop convertible" in the 1950's terminology, the car can't have fixed side window pillars, which I think the '85 Rivieras did have.
  11. Try this: http://www.atlantabuick.com/Restoration.htm#Engine%20Compartment%20Detailing On the manifolds, they were cast iron. So try some thing like Eastwood's cast blast paint. The BCA judging manual doesn't get into engine bay colors.
  12. There are lots of pictures out there, but they are on various sites. Suggest you do a general search on www.google.com with a filter like "Buick GS" or "Buick Webring" or "Buick Performance". Then, have fun searching for "1965 GS" within those sites.
  13. Here is a forum just for performance Buick wheels and tire sizes: http://www.v8buick.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=16
  14. If you are going to switch wheels, consider the Buick chrome wheels made by Wheel Vintiques or those sold by CARS. These are correct-looking Buick GS wheels with custom offsets. Choosing between them and Cragars is your choice of how stock or custom you want the car to look.
  15. No - You need 15" wheels or special offset aftermarket 14" wheels for disc brakes. I solved this problem by installing PraiseDyno Kevlar brakes shoes in my '66. Also did the dual master cylinder conversion.
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