F&J

I would think that fitting system would be the same as other GM cars of that age. Those would have a fitting with male 1/8" NPT threads to screw into the pump. The other end would be female w/flare to accept 5/16" or 3/8" metal flared brake/gas tubing: (the pre-flared metal brake/Gas line assortments in parts stores) Some cars used 5/16 steel line to the carb, and some used 3/8. Any auto parts store will have that very common fitting, if that is what it was.

It took almost 2 hours to make the latch. I put a penny in the pic to show how small this part is. I made the stepped pin in the lathe from a 20d nail that was laying on the bench These nails are good steel that machines well. Threaded it for 6-32 nuts, and found a spring in my stash. Note the flat steel T that was bent up for the body of the latch. It had 2 notches on the face, right where the first 90 degree bend was. Those notches allow the bent down part to not stick out along the side of the latch body. Pretty clever, and I did it the same way. Despite how small it is, I was able to bend both 90's on the brake. Next and final part is the flat cover and it's mounting bracket.

Sharp eye John spotted the reversed tab pattern on the first half of the hinge That happened by bending the first 90 degree bend the wrong way in the brake. Does not matter, as long as the final piece fits it. That's my story on that I was able to bend the remaining eyelets about halfway on the brake, then finish them in the vice, wrap & hammer them over the pin. Then made the last 90 bend slightly off, as it is easy to lose or gain 1/16" as you bend in a brake. Oh well, it all seems to line up good to me. I am now starting to wonder why I thought I could make the entire missing glove box door and it's parts....now that I found out how many areas could have been a disaster. Next job is the very simple latch that is just a spring loaded detent pin. Some lathe work and some scrap 18ga, a spring and two machine nuts. Then make the cover and it's weld-on mounting bracket...easy job, I think.

The 4 eyelets took longer than I thought, because there was not enough room for tools, due to the shape of the part. The eyelets would be easier to make on a flat unbent piece first, but then one of the 90 degree bends would be impossible to do on the brake, after doing the eyelets first. Catch 22 Anyways, it did come out real good and all 4 eyelets are aligned, and the pin is on the correct planes, so it should operate the door the same as the original. Meaning, it "should" let the door close without some part of the hinge hitting on the dashboard opening. The final half of the hinge has only one 90 degree bend, I can do that bend on the brake after I form those 4 eyelets first. I hope it goes quicker.

Thanks, Guys.. I followed Dean H's resto thread and I also learned to follow his train of thought. He took an obsure, long abandoned project car, and turned it into a finished beautiful car. He found as many pieces as he could, but then rather than wait for years to find the rest, he made do with handmade parts or reworked parts. I started on the hinge this morning. I made a paper pattern wrapped around the biggest half first. Then transferred that to 18ga metal. The bends were mostly done on the brake, including the radius, but at some point, the part won't fit back into the brake. I had to hand bend a bit of the last bend, and then I could get it to fit back into the brake for the last tight 90 degree bend. I left the tails that will become the hinge pin end, a little long, so that I could make sure I had enough to make the wraps around the pin. I might finish the whole hinge today if all goes well.

Here is the roughed in tray. This was a lot of fussy work to fit it together, tack weld it, test fit the cover...over and over. But it came out real good, and it does fit the hole in the dashboard perfectly. A bit of hand filing and sanding, it will be done. That was the hardest part. Now I will make the hinge, the latch, and the cover.

Here is the very backside, or bottom, of the pan shaped glove box door. It has two pressed areas, one for the hinge pocket, and other is a pocket for the latch. They are different depths, so the simple dies need to be sized to the right thickness. The dies are nothing more that random scrap; Make the male die to the the correct LxW, and the female die is just 3 pieces of scrap to form a 3-sided rectangle. Then tape them on the correct sides of the sheetmetal, and press it all together in a big vice. Then find the correct thickness pieces for the other pocket, and repeat. These are so simple and easy to do. Fast, too. The back cover was rough shaped in the pics to allow a little extra. I did finish grind it to correct size later, and will weld it up soon.

Well John, the problem is that this door is so small that everything on the vice gets in the way, and gets worse as you go to the next bend. Also, this is mild steel; I can't imagine how hard it would to make this out of stainless as it is so miserable to work with. This will get plated like original. I did not try the last bend till the end of the day. Lacking confidence I guess. I made the bottom of the tray instead. I will post that piece later today. Back to that last bend; Because there were so many things in the way, I just could not get the last bend tight enough. The spare metal on the end of the strip was very short now, and not enough leverage. I just kept trying anything to try not to scrap this part. I finally figured out what I should have done from the start. I took 2 pieces of 3/8" round stock and chucked then into the vice standing straight up, and 1/2" apart. One rod acts as the fulcrum for where you want the bend, and the other rod acts like a stop. Geez, I don't know why I did not think of this, because I have used that system before. I bet I could have done all the bending in one hour!...and without some of the damage I have made on the sides of the pan. Oh well.. Here is where it sits, waiting to get the seam butt welded. It fits good.

I decided to make two metal shims to put inside each corner, while bending the radius. These get bent up as you bend the corner, but I straightened them back out for the next corner. I am using the existing left hand glove box door cover upside down, to make the missing right hand side door. They are not the same. Shown here is about 2.5 hours for setup and fighting the first two corners. Anything you do, affects the other corners, while fighting to hold the pieces in a big vise. I finished the 3rd corner after this pic was taken, and it must have been almost 2 hours, as it keeps changing, and gets harder to hold all 3 corners in place. I quit for the day, and will do the last corner soon, and then start making the bottom of the pan.

Here is the very long strip of 18ga sheetmetal that I preformed. I started by pressing in the shelf that holds the inset painted cover, using a air powered step flanging tool. Then I messed with the adjustments on my sheetmetal brake, to be able to bend the bead detail on the edge. So far, the shape is good, and the inset cover is at the right height. Maybe today I will try to bend this strip around the painted cover, to form the corners. This is where it could go real bad, as that bead will try to crush on a tight corner. I've been thinking on how to prevent that, and I may try filling the bead with lead before bending, or make a steel filler strip to stick into the bead. Not sure yet, but I hope I don't ruin the strip. If I can get the strip bend around the inset cover, I will then make the bottom of the pan. That part will be easy. Spare parts for a 32 Nash of any series are almost impossible to find. In the last few years, I have never seen a parts car on the net, or anyone parting one out. So, I need to just start making some of the more difficult ones I need.

The car is still here, but in deep storage due to other projects. I have only one work bay, so I decided to occasionally make some of the missing parts that I could never find. Starting yesterday on one missing glove box door, and using the other side as a guide. Consists of a back dish shaped pan, with a flat painted inset cover on the face that sits on a miniature shelf step that is pressed into the pan edge. The outer edge of the pan was nickle/chrome? plated, and is a bead shape. That bead is open on the back side. It took a lot of thinking on how to tackle this complex part, and I decided to make the dished pan in two pieces and weld them together. What I decided to make first, is a long strip of sheetmetal with that shelf and bead preformed, and then bend it to the shape of the door. Next post will show that strip that took over 2 hours to make.

A J2 won't fit a 324 or 303 either, without planing the flanges. That's because the deck height was raised in 57...so then the intake is slightly wider.

3 levers still seems odd to me. Here are 2 pics of a 29 DeSoto setup Note the distributor has a lever with a cable to go to a dash knob. Take a look at your distributor to see if it has that same part?

That car should be 2 levers, throttle and lights. I don't recall seeing 3, but it's been a long time. Most small mopars of 29 had 3 cables on the instrument panel. One was choke, one was manifold heat valve, and the 3rd? Maybe the dist spark, not recalling it for sure. Look at the dist. Does it have a place where a cable would attach, or if not, try rotating the dist rotor to see if it has a internal automatic advance. Starting a long dormant car; remove plugs and add a few shots of thin oil like PB blaster spray, then spin the starter over to get oil pressure showing on the gauge. Then, clean or replace points, check for spark there. Then clean out the carb, and vacuum fuel tank pump if that's what it has.

I think it might be a Lyons cap, aftermarket brand. VERY popular with early custom car crowd. Search Lyons Cap or Lyon Cap on hamb, you should find a thread.

On a positive ground system, the power from switch goes to the Negative side. If you have power there, but no power at the Plus side, the following items need to be checked: - the points are closed..Then it will not show power. -the condenser is shorted out -Coil is bad -wire that goes to dist from coil is shorted out. Narrow it down first: -disconnect the plus wire at the coil. Now check for voltage at both plus and minus sides of coil. Both should have power now, but if the plus side still has no power, replace the coil. - If you do have power at both plus and minus after taking the plus wire off, now rotate the motor until the points are open. Reconnect the plus wire at coil, and you should have power to both plus and minus. - If you now lost the power to the plus side again, with points open, replace the condenser OR disconnect the condenser and again check for power at the plus side. If you now have power, the condenser is bad. -If you disconnected the condenser and still have no power at the plus side of coil, you have a short in the wire from plus side to the dist...or..the connector insulator inside the dist for the points is shorted to ground. Confused? On a working points system...The test light placed at the plus side, should blink on and off as the points open and close. That's why when the points are closed, there will not be power showing at the plus side of coil on a pos ground system. If it was a neg ground system, the ign switch sends power to the plus ide and the minus goes to the dist..but the light will still blink on and off as the points are operating.

The closest I have done is largest series 37 buick. On those, you can't just use the top cover, because the later ones are "selector" type shift, and the shift rails inside are very different. You also need the early trans case with it's correct rails. The 2 top covers have the same bolt pattern, but it will not shift. I would think the later Pontiacs should also be a smaller version of the Selector type?, and if so, you may have the same problem with the rails.

You are describing a genuine old time hot rod from Cal. There are far more people after the Fords of that type, but it does have some value as an old Chevy rod. Hard to say without pics, looking at the wood to see if it's loose, etc. But it needs to be sold with the old rod hype to get a fair price in these times. A stocker project in the same condition would bring far less than an old rod.

I am a huge fan of any 30 to 33 car, but I see the hobby changing over the last couple of decades. Interest in these cars has dropped, especially if they need any work.

Very rare indeed. I was a Model K nut back in the 70s. There are some minor differences in many parts used through the long run of K's which were built from later half of 28 to spring of 1930. The B&W Chrysler Company photo posted is a very, very early K, and the car for sale is a very late K. A serial number check would verify that, as it should be a higher number comparing the production numbers listed for K's. There was one for sale in Hemmings in the last half of the 70s in California, and back then I wondered if it was the one that Bulter said was in the PNW in 1956. Might have been this car, or maybe a second survivor. Anyone seeing it in person and looking closely at how the rear door is assembled, would/should be able to quickly tell if it is not a fake. Sad thing is, that ultra rare may not bring lots of money as time has marched on. Most people who liked the cars of that age (like me) have either passed away or are downsizing or just can't keep adding to their fleet. I would think an elder buyer with money, would rather find a K roadster or better yet, a 32 DeSoto conv. Maybe Keiser will hit the lottery and the problem will be solved.

This AACA info request was linked over to the hamb. There were pics posted of a Chrysler 4 dr conv sedan to compare. One guy from Europe said he thought it was a shortened 4dr conv sedan. I agree. Take a look at one of the pics showing the running board; the board is way too short to be a factory anything, not even coachbuilt. Also one view shows an odd angle of the rear beltline detail as it meets the door. That odd angle was caused by the ill fitting panels when it was shortened. If you could strip the paint, I'd bet you will see the panel welding done to part of the quarter. If you look at the rear body panel, there are signs of where the stock Chrysler trunk was. Many countless cars were modified in the 50s to mimic shorter sports car styles.

There was a saddle shaped potmetal part that attached to the two outer cleats. They have slots for a leather belt to tie the top down. These saddles were removable, so they got lost. There should be a keyhole shape slot in each outer cleat. The bottom of the saddle has a permanent wide head flathead screw with a wave spring washer. When you put these on. you push down on the saddle to force the screw head through the keyhole, the push it to the narrow part of the keyhole. Then the spring washer keeps it snug.

The 50s Hydramatics I have seperated, do not have a normal torque cinverter. It is a fluid coupling. There are many bolts running around the outside edge of the coupler that looks like a convertor. Rotate the engine so you can find the drain plug to drain it out. After it drains, remove all those bolts, and the front part will stay with the motor, and the rear part will stay with the trans. If the motor is stuck you are in big trouble, because you now have to remove the trans with the entire crankshaft still attached.

First time back in over a year. I ended up back here while using Google to look for any new info or other Model 1063's. As I posted a long time ago, there was Nash Club archive reference to one in Panama back in 2000, and the owner finally posted above in post #88. That is why I used the Model number in this thread's title Also today, I refound the Maroon colored 1063 from South America, It is back up for sale in Argentina. I posted a pic in this thread. So, that makes 3 for sure, but I think there is one more in the USA. I saw a carshow giveaway Hat Pin from a Lions Club car show held in western PA or NY on ebay. It had the likeness of a 1063, right down to the 4 hood doors, but also the artist drew two later style fog lights, so I'd bet it was drawn from a pic of a local real car. It was Yellow which is not original. I actually worked on the Nash today, first time in over a year. The starter switch had broken the last time I moved the car. There are 4 bakelite roller wheels in the switch that fell apart, causing a huge short circuit. I made new ones from heat resistant material from a chevy truck fusebox, and it works great. Then I charged the battery, added a remote gas can, and it fired right up. I am tied up with other peoples old cars for a while, but I will get back on it asap.

Actually some of the parts are newer than a 1912. A '12 would have reversable wheel hubs to fit the wide vs narrow wagon wheel ruts in dirt roads. The ones in the pics were first used in '13, and are not reversable. Also the main driving disc in the backround of pic #1 shows wooden spokes with a flat aluminum disc. A '12 would have a casted aluminum disc with integral webbing, instead of spokes. That disc/spokes would be '13 or newer.