Philippe Racicot Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 All the buicks I've owned had oil pressure problems. Am I alone... My 68 Wildcat engine had to be rebuilt twice in 30000 miles... my former 76 Electra got 20 pounds cold 0 pounds after 2 minutes... my 67 Riviera oil gauge needle went from an extreme to another in few minutes... and the 75000mile engine blew yesterday after knocking for about 10 seconds... and my 75 Electra's warning light flashes as soon as the engine is warm...does anybody have a durable solution to correct this problem? I tried booster plates hi vol pumps even complete rebuilt but none worked well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 If the engines are rebuilt properly, you should hae 15-20 pounds at idle and 40-50 at 2500 RPM. I have put new bearings and rings in 100,000 mile engines and driven them another 60,000 with no problem. Your rebuilder is not doing something right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 You arent running a full synthetic oil are you? I have heard of similar troubles when running a 0W30 oil as it tends to bypass around the wimpy aluminum oil pump housing. You could try TAPerformance (www.taperformance.com) they sell a new casting of the front housing that contains the oil pump and water pump. This may solve your troubles. Also consider using a longer spring in the pump cover, maybe when it was rebuilt they used one that was too short? Aside from a massive internal leak the replacement front cover and a fresh oil pump with booster plate should work.<P>Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56Roadmaster Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 i have had some similar troubles in my 430's.<BR>have you:<BR> carefully checked( with precsion measuring tools) the oil pump housing clearances<BR> replaced the cam bearings<BR> are you trying to use chevy lifters they are just several thousandths diameter smaller<BR> are your crank journals true<BR> are your rod big end bores true<BR> did you in fact plastigage the bearings to be sure your oil clearnaces are in spec.<BR> did you make sure the flange on the pump pick tube is flat and the small gasket is in place (this would cause the pump to suck air)<BR> also is the pick up tube cracked or bent down or up as to restrict or starve oil flow<BR> again carefully check that oil pump housing it may look ok to the eye but not really be good, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 I have some problems with my 455 occasionally dropping low on the oil pressure, like 15 when it usually runs at about 28 at idle) but most of the time its in conjunction with the temperature climbing to near 250. I'm running Mobile 1 10W30 its occassional after I'm stuck in traffic for along time.<P>Central Texas Sleeper<P>"There is no Replacement for Displacement"<BR> Carroll Shelby<P>1970 Riviera (468-4, 700R4) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUICKX Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 You can change the oil pressure by using a stiffer spring in the oil pump, which is easy to change. Just unscrew the bolt at the front of the pump and remove the spring and install the stiffer spring. I also mix two quarts of 20 wt oil with 3 quarts of 50 wt oil in the summer.I also installed a four core raditator, which the car runs at 175-180 in a 1970 stage 1 455. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Shaffer Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 My old 72 Buick Electra with the 455 had excellent oil pressure. One time the light did start coming on, but the oil pressure sensor went bad. I had to drive the car 15 miles with the "oil" light on and I thought I was ruining the engine, but it was so quiet, so I thought it was a sensor. My dad thought it was too. He said the engine would be gone if I did drove it those miles w/no oil pressure. Anyway, we put on a new sensor and it fixed it. I have also heard others with the early 70s Buicks have the same problem. I would change the sensor on your 76 first and see if that is the problem. Good luck.<p>[ 07-09-2002: Message edited by: Shaffer ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSMAG Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 The stiffer spring will not raise low oil pressure. It will only allow for a higher maximum pressure. There are kits available to put longer oil pump gears creating a high volume oil pump. There are pros and cons. If you're trying to keep and old engine going, try the longer gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 Yes, I have some problems with my 430 too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philippe Racicot Posted July 11, 2002 Author Share Posted July 11, 2002 Thanks for your comments. To clarify my situation, The first car that I had (a 68 Wildcat) Had it's engine freshly rebuilt when I got it in 1992. 30000 miles later the main bearings vere very used and the oil pressure was low... I had it rebuilt and it ran fine after until I had an accident two years ago...Then I had a 67 Riviera but i did not touch the engine until it blew last week... It had only 75000 on it. My former 76 Electra had 96000 when I decided the oil light went on too often. I first tried an Heavy duty oil pump with longer gears and nothing improved. Then I dismantled the engine and found good bearings exept for the thrust that has eaten the crankshaft and the front and rear mouvement of the crank damaged the block. It would have been too expensive to rebuilt so I kept my car as a parts car. I then found a similar 75 In better shape with a good body (That is less common here in Canada) and 65000 miles and I checked the oil pressure before buying the car and it was low... I decided to buy the car anyway and I still have not rebuilt the engine. But I will soon because the oil light comes on when the a/c is on. I put 15w40 oil in it + Thick additives but It's not enough. Two days ago I went to see another parts car to repair my 67 Riv (a 67 Wildcat with 51000 miles) and checked the oil pressure on it after the owner just changed the oil and filter. Cold there was 54 pounds at idle but it quickly dropped to 9 pounds... without driving the car because it had no brakes. The engine did sound good and oil pressure was still at 40 pounds around 2000 rpm. I'm not shure I'm gone buy it because the guy who sells it asks quite much for it and he says it's normal to get 9 pounds at idle on a not fully warmed Buick engine! With the experiences that I had I believe he might be right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 Most oil pressure switches will light the bulb at 8PSI, so the engine you are looking at has quite a bit of wear. The Buick engine runs larger main bearings than most engines consequently they are fit closer than other engines. The cam bearings also have a direct bearing on oil pressure, so you will probably need that engine redone in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 good rule of thumb<BR>10 psi every 1,000 rpm.<BR>refresh bearings at the least before putting in.<BR>Check front oil pump clearance and reset. <BR>This can get you many enjoyable miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 A trick I used to pump up oil pressure in younger days was to put 2 small 5/16 nuts in front of pressure spring.This got me about 20 psi at cruising speed. 3-4000 rpm range.<BR>I always use an oil pressure gauge with my idiot light. This is safer for monitoring your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 13, 2002 Share Posted July 13, 2002 IS IT TRUE THAT THE '67-'69 430 DOES NOT-<BR>DOES NOT-HAVE OIL RUNNING THROUGH THE PUSH RODS?? IF TRUE, ONE MUST MAKE SURE THE CORRECT PUSHRODS ARE INSTALLED? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Thoune Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 If you plan to exceed 5000 rpm without performing all the necessary oiling modifications to the block you will have issues , usually with the #7 rod bearing . Always maintain the full oil level, as a quart low on these engines can lead to starving the pickup momentarily and unfortunately that's all it takes to spin a bearing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Jake Moran Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Just nice to read The Old Guy again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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