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Waxing - what's best?


EdA

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I've a 1934 Rolls Royce with a recently professionally restored and repainted original alumunium coachbuilt body. Paint was baked and hand polished and has a clear coat - now has cured 6 months. I'm ready to start driving and showing the car and want to be sure I'm caring for paint properly. It seems most major vendors, such as Meguiar's, Giriots Garage, etc. recommend applying polish/wax with orbital buffers - but each has their own take on which one to use and what type of wax. Some also suggest using a cleaning "clay" first. All seem to have classic car owners who claims "success". I would like to hear from Classic car owners what has worked best for you.

Anyone have good or bad results and willing to offer suggestions?

How about cordless buffer from Meguiar's instead of cord model - does it hold charge long enough for use "in the field?"

What's best "wax" you've found.

Does the cleaning clay work?

Is orbital polisher better than hand - beyond just labor savings?

Ed Albert

Charlotte, NC

1934 20/25 hp Rolls Royce, Thrupp and Maberly sports salon

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since your paint is new, you shouldnt need the clay. the clay takes off contamination. use a wax for clear coat. did they buff the car? if so ask the shop what they recommend. talk to the vendors, you should be able to hand wax, use good cloths etc. jim

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With the fenders, hood and running boards coming at different angles, you probably don't want to use an orbital polisher becuase you could accidentally bump against the car and scratch it. Since the car has a new paint job and has already been polished, I would just keep maintaining it by hand.

Meguiars and 3M make superb products that can be applied by hand. Your local autobody supply shop can make product recommendations. People tend to prefer waxes for personal reasons, kind of like Coke vs. Pepsi. I personally like Zaino, which has a small but growing cult following. Try www.zainobros.com for further info. The founder is obsessed with making the best wax possible. The application process takes longer than other products but the results are spectacular.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks for the advice. The new paint was hand sanded and then orbital polished and waxed, so I am sticking at this point with top of the line hand applied wax. Have used Meguiars and it seems to work well. Will try the clay as paint ages, or if I get caught under trees or driving through a cloud of bugs.

Ed

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  • 6 years later...

If Your Paint Still Has Good Gloss,You Can't Go Wrong With Meguiars Gold Class or Mothers California Gold. Both Are Yellow Carnauba Type Waxes And Give The Best And Easiest Protection (Apply By Hand,And Remove With Clean Microfiber Towel), Larry

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My favorite was a Meguiars 3 part system, with cleaner, polish and wax in separate steps. The 3 part labeling has now been discontinued apparently, probably too much work for most people, but I liked the results I had and I think the products are still sold individually.

I always use clay and/or cleaner on my cars, but on the Rolls in question they should not be necesary unless it has not been covered up. I would certainly not use the buffer. Good luck, Todd

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Don't need to do anything but hand wax it. It's got more shine from the clearcoat than a 34 Rolls ever had. Mequiars NXT seemed to work well for me however now I have switched to Satin Creme . probably don't need to wax more than once a year. I swear by Adams detail spray. I used Mequiar but found I was getting a lot of hazing. The detailing will help remove any bugs that you may pick up. Also the cheap micro fiber towels from costco seem to work well.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest rmongoose

I think Zymol is the best, it applies differently than most the others but I've never seen a shine like Zymol. I costs a fortune but is worth every cent, it's not a carnauba or silicone, its main base is bees wax, it was developed for the queens carriages in England originally.

It even smells great!

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