Braddah Jon Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) I have recently inherited a 1925 DB sedan. It’s in pieces but it’s all there. However I have an updated rear axle (5lug) and want to match the front to that 5lug pattern as well. How may i obtain a front conversion kit to 5 lug? Edited August 13, 2018 by Braddah Jon (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 I don't think it is an "upgrade" rear end. I simply think someone installed a rear end that is built for the Dodge Bros. disc wheel. You should be able to find front hubs that are proper for the Dodge Bros. disc wheel. I may have a couple of spare front hubs, if you really want to go that way. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabnut Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 Optionally there were available steel disk Michelin wheels for DOdge that had five bolt mount. Your rear end is probably that. Do you have woodm wheels on the front? If so you need to first confirm you have the Michelin hubs on the back and then find a set of Michelin fron bubd. Also you will need to find Michelin wheels which may be harder then finding the wood wheels and hubs for the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 On 8/14/2018 at 2:08 PM, alsfarms said: I don't think it is an "upgrade" rear end. I simply think someone installed a rear end that is built for the Dodge Bros. disc wheel. You should be able to find front hubs that are proper for the Dodge Bros. disc wheel. I may have a couple of spare front hubs, if you really want to go that way. Al I'm certain its a 2004 dodge ram rear end (5x5.5?)that was shortened to match the front width. it is also had an upgraded engine and transmission (1997 dodge dakota 4 cylinder with 5 speed trans) all which were custom. once i get a chance i will post pics. these front hubs you speak of, is it a 5 lug? and yes thats the route id like to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) Be very careful with the stock front axle, it probably won’t take the stress of modern brakes. The ability to twist it under load could be incredibly dangerous. Modify a modern truck axel for safety. Be sure you have a welder with above average skills, and......by the way.....getting the geometry correct is much more difficult than you think. You need someone with talent......which means it’s gonna cost you more than you would think. I would also stiffen that frame right now......the motor makes much more power the the stock unit, and the frame will twist much more than stock. The doors will start to hit in the jams. Edited September 3, 2018 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) Ed brings up some good points. That front end isn't the best for todays speeds. As this is a hot rod of sorts I suspect that you are wanting something more modern than what the car started out as. If it were me I would look into a front crossmember with suspension built in. The Mustang II kits come to mind and come about any way you want. There is an outfit called 'Fatman' that may be able to help you. Then there are many junk yard front ends that can be fitted, Corvair, Corvette, or the torsion bar Volary's maybe. But what you want to get is a complete system rather that piecemeal because that's when you run into geometery problems. A couple of notes. If you go with a M II kit you will be looking at the front steer R and P and some people don't like that. The Fatman kits use a Cavalier R and P which mounts behind the crossmember, its a bit more difficult but at least hides the steering gear. (I don't think you can get this in power steering) Either way you will be fabing up your own steering shaft, not that difficult especially with that small engine. I don't think its just a matter of finding matching wheel patterns here. I have no idea of what this stock set up looks like, But I guess you could have the hubs re-drilled to the 5.5 circle that you are looking for. Which you will have to do anyway if you go with something more modern in the front. Edited September 2, 2018 by JACK M (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 That is going to be a unique project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 18 hours ago, edinmass said: Be very careful with the stock front axle, it probably won’t take the stress of modern brakes. The ability to twist it under load could be incredibly dangerous. Modify a modern truck axel for safety. Be sure you have a welder with above average skills, and......by the way.....gets g the geometry correct is much more difficult than you think. You need someone with talent......which means it’s gonna cost you more than you would think. I would also stiffen that frame right now......the motor makes much more power the the stock unit, and the frame will twist much more than stock. The doors will start to hit in the jams. not sure if its visible, but the frame has been boxed before being painted. i wasnt gonna put front brakes if it didnt come with it. i just want to be able to put modern wheels that match the rear lug pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 11 hours ago, JACK M said: Ed brings up some good points. That front end isn't the best for todays speeds. As this is a hot rod of sorts I suspect that you are wanting something more modern than what the car started out as. If it were me I would look into a front crossmember with suspension built in. The Mustang II kits come to mind and come about any way you want. There is an outfit called 'Fatman' that may be able to help you. Then there are many junk yard front ends that can be fitted, Corvair, Corvette, or the torsion bar Volary's maybe. But what you want to get is a complete system rather that piecemeal because that's when you run into geometery problems. A couple of notes. If you go with a M II kit you will be looking at the front steer R and P and some people don't like that. The Fatman kits use a Cavalier R and P which mounts behind the crossmember, its a bit more difficult but at least hides the steering gear. (I don't think you can get this in power steering) Either way you will be fabing up your own steering shaft, not that difficult especially with that small engine. I don't think its just a matter of finding matching wheel patterns here. I have no idea of what this stock set up looks like, But I guess you could have the hubs re-drilled to the 5.5 circle that you are looking for. Which you will have to do anyway if you go with something more modern in the front. this is very good feedback. i truly appreciate you all. however the vehicle has already been equipped with power steering (R&P) and has been linked up. if you look at the pics you can see it. also i dont plan on hot rodding this around it will be showcased at meet and greets as well as parades. i may rent it out (me driving) for weddings and special events. it has been prepped for rear disc brakes. i need to know how to convert the front spindle type to a 5x5.5 lug pattern. like a knock off type set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 I think you mean hubs not spindle. Now that I look closer I see that the hub is built into the wheel. There may be a spindle that you could put on your axle that would allow you to use a proper hub for what you want to do. I also now see the rack and pinion set up. Sorry I didn't look closer the first time. My opinion is that the rack is mounted to high, the tie rods should be parallel with the axle. Although that may get better when the weight of body and radiator etc. is on the suspension. What R and P is that? It looks to be mounted behind the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 (edited) On 9/3/2018 at 5:56 AM, JACK M said: I think you mean hubs not spindle. Now that I look closer I see that the hub is built into the wheel. There may be a spindle that you could put on your axle that would allow you to use a proper hub for what you want to do. I also now see the rack and pinion set up. Sorry I didn't look closer the first time. My opinion is that the rack is mounted to high, the tie rods should be parallel with the axle. Although that may get better when the weight of body and radiator etc. is on the suspension. What R and P is that? It looks to be mounted behind the axle. Left = spindle Right = hub The left is what the front is equipped with. But I think I can get a dodge rotor that has the studs already on it. The bearings should match or can be matched then lock it down with the crown. The rear is my issue. I want to be able to convert it to a spindle from a hub. Dayton wire wheel makes knock off assemblies, it not a spindle type. Edited September 10, 2018 by Braddah Jon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddah Jon Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 bump ive figured out how to convert the front to a 5x5.5 lug patern. now i want to convert the rear from 5x5.5 lug pattern to a spindle type like the front is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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