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abs sensors


tony1970

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Easiest way to test is to do a visual by getting the car in the air and looking at the sensor leads being frayed or cracked. Then take an ohm meter and check the resistance of the lead at the plug under the hood. The connection disconnects by squeezing the plug on the flats and pulling apart. The connections are at the strut towers.

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Dave I have done this all ready front sensors look good I am getting an ohm reading of 1134, rears check out also the computer is brand new delco 1649945 so I know it is not the computer,the problem is I am missing signals,any thoughts ,thanks tony.

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Dave is the expert on the sensors so he may correct me on this. I have limited experience working on the ABS.

 

1. Don't count on the ABS code to tell you specifically what part is causing the problem. 2. You must drive over 18 MPH for the code to clear and turn off the ABS light. Just swapping a part or disconnecting the battery won't do it.

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Hi Ronnie thanks for your imput, the abs light comes on at 13 mph and stays on throws the same code 45 no others.Dave asked to take readings of the abs leads they are as follows LF 1157 RF 1161 RR 1151 LR 1133 I did notice that some of the plastic conduit was missing but no cracks or fraying anywhere.next step?

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If I understand your use of "conduit" you mean the lead? Correct? Having a lead with part of the sensor lead casing is not good. What could be happening is that the lead is reading good while not in motion, but what happens is when you drive the car it loses continuity.

 Jim Finn shared this with us years ago. Get your car back up on blocks, spin the wheel and while it is spinning read the voltage resistance, I'll bet you lose the reading. 

 A lead that reads good while standing in place doesn't always mean it is good, especially one that has a damaged lead.

 I looked up code 45 and the manual says Left Front. That would be as you look at the car. If you are in the drivers seat it is the Right Front or the passenger side front.

 

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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There is not a conduit for the sensor lead. The front leads are not protected while the rears have a plastic loom similar to what the engine wiring has for protection.

 The lead is made up of a metal head, the lead, and the connection.

 Maybe post a picture of what you have?

 BTW I edited my response on the spinning wheel test.

 You may want to read up on the resources tab on the top of the page as it has a tutorial on the ABS brakes.

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Just a note as have not needed to work on mine for some time:

The code has little resemblance to the actual problem.

Need to check the mechanical functions also. End of sensor is supposed to be .020" from the toothed wheel.

If the toothed wheel gets dirty or clogged the sensor may not register.

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Hi Dave I did the wheel test and it is a bad LF wheel sensor no continuity,checked the codes again I got a code 45 and 22 inlet valve got back into car drove it over 18mph to see if the codes would clear ,now I am getting  just a code 22? any thoughts,thanks.

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Yeah, disregard the code 22 as that can pop up when you have a lead issue and should go away when the lead is freplaced.

 You need a lead as you are dealing with a lead that reads good when the car is stationary but when it is moving it works intermittent.

 

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There are about 8 front ABS sensor leads in Reattas within 80 miles of me, but the problem is I have to cut them out of the front wheel assemblies and that is getting old. Then they have to be reconditioned with new skins put on. 

 

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