ChrisWhewell Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Hey, I want to change my injectors, can I just remove the fuel pump fuse and start the engine, to bleed the pressure out of the fuel lines ? Thanks. !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Yes, you could do that but I would expect there will still be a fair amount of residue fuel in the rail. Even at zero pressure overnight, there will still be fuel in the rail. Probably the least fuel spillage is removing the entire fuel rail w/injectors and dump it out before removing injectors. Pulling the rail up and swapping one injector at a time sort of works too since the rail is suction locked but there is no perfect way that I know of to not spill some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Thanks alot. I just went and put a rag under the thing, relieved the pressure at the schrader and pulled it off and later mopped up the gas puddle in the manifold. Woo hoo, I put new old 2001 Bosch injectors from a ford explorer in it, and it ran like shhhhttttt. So, I put the original injectors back in, on a second disassembly process. Yes I like doing things twice, sometimes four times. Lesson I knew long ago, never use ford parts in a GM car, I guess I had to relearn that. Well, at least I cleaned the old injectors and put new o-rings on them. I smelled a little gas ever since I got the car 2 years ago, so maybe I actually accomplished something today. The stock injectors have four tiny holes in them, so maybe they're not all that bad but I wish they were more than 18.55 lbs/hr. I think 22 would be optimal Edited March 11, 2017 by ChrisWhewell (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 If you are looking for a better injector, the newer Bosch Type 3 seem to make a useful difference. The original injectors are not a bad design, they are a director plate type, and work well. The new Type 3 has lighter internal parts and can open and close more quickly which seems to make for a smoother idle and low speed. The 19#ish injectors are well matched to the capability of the engine. If you look for a Type 3, be sure they have the original EV1 style electrical connector and the groove at the top for the little metal clip. At around 200hp, the injectors would need to be upgraded for more fuel. JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVET Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 There is a business called Fuel Injector Connection that many in the Corvette hobby use. His prices are very good on Bosch IIIs and he will actually pick up the phone and advise you if you run into a problem. I have dealt with Chris at FIC and highly recommend his business:https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Yes, John Banner at FIC sold me bosch's I used on my corvette. The junk set I put in the Reat today were from a local craiglister who claimed they were good injectors. The engine wouldn't even idle with them unless I revved it. I felt the exh manifold and two of the cyls weren't firing at all and a third was barely warm. I have a spare LN3 I'll someday pull the heads from and do a porting and valve job on it and clear the restriction from the rear exh manifold, that should help alot. I wonder what the largest valves I could get to go into a stock LN3 head.... For those interested, this dude did a lot of work https://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?2944-Series-I-3800-LN3-performance-build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I read through that build and most of it is pretty fine. I did notice a little different dimension on the pistons used vs what I have found and the resulting compression ratio but just pickin' nits. Apparently it ran well, so hats off on that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 17 hours ago, ChrisWhewell said: I wonder what the largest valves I could get to go into a stock LN3 head.... Funny this should come up now. I am working on resurrecting a couple of scrap heads I received from Daves89. The stock intake valve is 1.71" and there is about .062" space between the intake and exhaust valves. So, it would appear about a 1.82" intake valve would fit. The ports on these heads aren't bad on these engines and respond well to minor porting and cleanup work. I think the 10* valve angle helps a lot. I am experimenting now with back cuts on the intake valve and a 15* and 30* cut on the back are worth a few cfm, particularly below .250" lift. The exhaust port is very good stock, just clean it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hey 2seater if you want the Red's engine and tranny after we pull it just come and get it. Free for pick up. Just let me know. Ran when parked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I appreciate all the stuff I have from you now, and the offer is tempting, but I am running out of room If we can find the missing rod cap and bolts, that would be great. I still have that little care package for you as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 When Kendall and I next schedule a get together I will let you know so you can grab the stuff you need. Offer to others; If 2seater doesn't want the engine/tranny, anyone who wants it for free just has to come for it. I am not interested in crating it or putting it on a pallet for shipping, must be picked up. Engine has 265,000 miles the tranny about 160,000. Engine runs great. The tranny is a GM rebuilt but first shift from 1st to 2nd depends on ambient temperature being 50 degrees or higher. Otherwise I'll take it to Gibson's for the $10-20.00 they'll pay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Yep, that was a great job that fellow did on rebuilding the LN3. What I got most from it, is that the most I'd be likely to do is cylinder head work - I got to be expert at it. Re-worked heads, clean the exhaust restriction out the rear manifold, upgrade the injectors and do a little programming. I used David Vizard's techniques. I'd imagine I can get it close to 200 HP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) @2seater "Funny this should come up now. I am working on resurrecting a couple of scrap heads I received from Daves89. The stock intake valve is 1.71" and there is about .062" space between the intake and exhaust valves. So, it would appear about a 1.82" intake valve would fit. The ports on these heads aren't bad on these engines and respond well to minor porting and cleanup work. I think the 10* valve angle helps a lot. I am experimenting now with back cuts on the intake valve and a 15* and 30* cut on the back are worth a few cfm, particularly below .250" lift. The exhaust port is very good stock, just clean it up." . I agree there is much left on the table regarding low lift flow, typically a ridge or wall in the comb. chamber circumscribing the periphery of the valves. Ihave a spare complete LN3 in my parts car and hate to tear into it just for the heads, so I'm starting to wonder what other heads might be a direct drop in with no BS respecting brackets and other anciallary features. Maybe nothing and I'll just have to find some junk LN3 heads to work on. I use Neway cutters, a jeweler's eyepiece and I get every seat width perfect and also right where it needs to be on the valve. Takes a lot of time and blue dye. Can't get that easily from the machine shops. It takes a lot of time but I get them perfectamundo. Backcutting the valves is an easy few HP a lot of folk don't know about. You can also put a little swirl on the back of the valves with heavy grit sandpaper prior to doing the back cut. I like to get the roughs out of the combustion chambers too, esp. around the plug. I just did a set of LT1 heads for a guy, waiting for him to put it back to gether and report - those are the absolute best heads on the planet Edited March 12, 2017 by ChrisWhewell (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I read Vizard's stuff with interest as well, but this is no full on workup. Without a lot of work I was showing about 202 cfm with no valve and I am within 10 of that @ .450, so good enough. Average air speed about 260 fps. I agree on the rougher back surface. Polished up I lose a couple cfm. I do not know for certain on what other heads will fit, but I would guess any of the Series I will work. The heads with the tpi style intake have a port for the PCV plumbing, which is all internal, but the hole can be tapped for a pipe plug to use either style manifold. Pretty certain the ports are in the same place and somewhere in the '93-'95 time frame used a roller pivot rocker with standard style pallet tip. They are not a drop in for earlier heads. I would be interested in your results if you ever play with a set. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I looked a bit more and according to Engine Builder, the castings are the same number for the vin C and vin L engines through '95, although there are small differences such as the pcv vent hole and the '93-'95 vin L vin 1 s/c do use the roller pivot rocker w/aluminum guide plate. The bolt for the rocker is 5/16" vs the 3/8" on the bathtub pivot like ours. It is possible the drilling in the head for the rocker may be relocated some also as I tried one of those rockers and the line up was poor. All have the same 38cc combustion chamber and none have the later, and preferred, heart shape If you are, or have someone good with welding, they could be modified and then recut the seats By the way, some Ford 3.8 pistons will work in our engine, have a much smaller dish, the correct piston pin, and will really raise compression ratio into the upper 10's. E85 anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91vert Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 On 2017-03-11 at 3:47 PM, AZVET said: There is a business called Fuel Injector Connection that many in the Corvette hobby use. His prices are very good on Bosch IIIs and he will actually pick up the phone and advise you if you run into a problem. I have dealt with Chris at FIC and highly recommend his business:https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/ I too have used this business and had no complaints. Cal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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