1917 rod cap oil splashers

[Guest trap442w30]

What holds the oil splashers in the connecting rod caps?  When I pulled the pan to clean it, number 1 splasher was in the pan and number 6 is loose, the rest seem tight.

[Guest trap442w30]

It looks like they were inserted into a slot and welded in place, is there a better way to keep them in place?

[automaschinewerks]

I started using silver solder rod lately to weld castings for hit miss engines, making tractor fuel lines (soldering steel brake line into brass banjo fitting ends). same idea as brazing, but way less heat, use quiet neutral flame on oxy acetylene, I doubt you will need enough heat to melt the Babbitt out, maybe put cold water wrag against babbit inside, but take caps off and both pieces have to be absolutely clean, ie. glassbead and wire wheel buffing, just like regular solder

[nvonada]

I am thinking JB-weld might be all you need.  Or maybe Loctite 680 or similar.

[Stude Light]

I would use 50/50 solder as it has a very low melting point, much lower than that of silver solder.  As mentioned by automaschinewerks above, I would be concerned about too much heat and melting the babbitt so the lowest heat material and the wet rag is a good idea. I'm really wary of beadblasting anything inside of my engine as the media gets stuck in the pores and crevices. Perhaps you can just use brake clean and a wire brush? If you do beadblast, I suggest you only do the area that needs it, really protect the babbitt so the blast media doesn't hit that and take some time to thoroughly clean it afterwards. I've used JB Weld on a lot of stuff and it would probably work but I would always be thinking in the back of my mind "I hope it holds up".  I think solder would be a stronger solution but you will need to get the cap hot enough for it to flow so you'll want to melt and flow the solder onto the cap first to ensure you don't have a cold bond. And use a good flux!

 

On a side note....I was looking at the design of the fingers and pondering why it would have a finger in each direction?  Maybe in case you start the engine in reverse . Understanding that the fingers are removable, it is most likely to ensure the assembler got them in the correct orientation as you can't screw up this design.

Scott

[Guest trap442w30]

taking a better look at it, they ground the cap leaving a narrow strip along the slot and bent it over.  it looks like some of them had a spot of weld....judging from the cracks in the weld.  I like the idea of JB Weld or the solder better than welding.  I don't know if I can remove enough oil for those to work.   I wouldn't want little pieces breaking off in the engine and I definitely don't want these fingers to fall off.

I agree about the double sided being a way to assure the correct direction, but since they are also cupped, I'd assume the first one would scoop the oil into the bearing, and the second one would splash a little oil to the sides since I doubt very much oil would have enough time to flow completely back.

[Guest trap442w30]

Also, what are your opinions on oil pan gaskets.  Do I make the two side pieces, or do I put on a thin layer of RTV let that dry and put on another coat before installing.  My pan had nothing front and rear, the pan just went between a grooved piece.

[automaschinewerks]

for sure don't glassbead while in the engine, I guess I meant to say to take the caps off and do the cleaning\soldering.  I like making pan gaskets out of paper, not siliconing too much.  I am pulling the pan on the Erskine to clean out the sludge before I crank it over too much, and will be making gaskets out of gasket paper.

I don't think id trust jb weld or other epoxies for something this important and moving at the speed of the crankshaft, and this hard to get at if it breaks again!

[Spinneyhill]

Silicon "gaskets" do not belong on an old car. It is very easy to put too much on and the little beads of excess on the inside find their way into places that cause trouble, including engine failure.

 

If it had nothing originally you could even do that, with a non-hardening gasket paste like Hylomar or Permatex or Loctite (518 is it?) in the joint.

[Guest trap442w30]

I think I'll pull the two rod caps clean them and solder the fingers back in place and not mess with the 4 that are tight.  I'll also pick up some gasket material for the sides.  Thanks guys for helping me figure out the best way to go with this.

[Stude Light]

Did you try Olson's for the gaskets? http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

If they don't have them, then just use a good paper gasket material.  I know Olson's will also sell just the bulk gasket material in a number of different thicknesses (they use some nice stuff).  On my '23, the gaskets are rather thick.  I'm with Spinneyhill on the silicone.  If you look at newer designs that are designed to use a bead of silicone to seal you will find a generous chamfer on one on the mating parts.  This allows the excess silicone to squeeze in the chamfer having an excellent bond at the chamfer to sealing flange so it won't break free.  The thickness of the silicone bead before mating the flanges also becomes critical for the design to work properly. On two flat surfaces, a "silicone only" bead will squeeze out forming a weak edge that often tears into little pieces.  I do often spread a thin film of silicone on some gaskets but am very careful on the amount so I don't get "squeeze out". The Hylomar works well too (and it resists oils and fuel much better than silicone).  I would suggest the Hylomar at the front and rear and gaskets and buy or make gaskets for the sides.

 

I don't think they worried much about oil leaks back then.  Maybe they figured some dripping would help keep the dust down on all those dirt roads.

Scott