ddiaz396

new 1956 Super owner

246 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Do that.

None of my three 55's will run more than 20 minutes either idling or driving before dying of fuel starvation this time of year.  The available winter blend gasoline will boil at just 100*F.  All of mine have electric fuel pumps near the tank to resolve or prevent the problem.

What kind and brand of fuel pump are you using in your cars?do I need to spend a lot of $$$?what do you think about airtex or Mr Gasket or Carter? do you use in conjunction with your mechanical pump? do I need a inline pressure regulator ? do you use your pump wit a on/off switch?. I will change the sending unit....it's not working and I will need to know if I got gas or not....also, I will buy a 25" roll of fuel line and I will make a solid line....remove all the cheap plastic filter and connect the mechanical fuel pump with a metal line( I got it connected with a rubber piece)...Today I will start(AGAIN!!!) to the replacement of the torque ball cover....hope doing this will stop the leak ...do you think I should replace the seal at the end of the universal joint at the torque ball inner and outer retainer(it's such a seal? in the diagram I got from the torque ball kit show a seal before the sleeve?(Attached photo of diagram) where the transmission fluid can be leaking other than the torque ball? Sorry to ask so many questions, but your knowledge and expertise(as many other people in this site!!) is very important ....I wish more young people get into this hobby, but unfortunately it's not happening...Thanks for your advise!!! Daniel

diagram.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...AND there will not be a "sock" in the gas tank on the pickup tube. That is by design, and unless you have a giant piece of crud in there either through bad gas or vandalism, the car will pass it through to the filter. 

 

Your English is perfectly fine Daniel.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Mr. Gasket versions all the time. The Carter is good too, but noisy. Don't buy an Airtex.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, old-tank said:

Do that.

None of my three 55's will run more than 20 minutes either idling or driving before dying of fuel starvation this time of year.  The available winter blend gasoline will boil at just 100*F.  All of mine have electric fuel pumps near the tank to resolve or prevent the problem.

Willie, I posted  before but I don't see it in the forum so here goes again...what kind of fuel pump do you use? airtex, Mr Gasket, Carter? do I need to spend a lot of $$$?where do you get the power to it?do you use a relay? what size of wire for the power? 16g, 12g? can I get the power from the switch that go to the starter (my started in the accelerator it's not working, I connected a cable with power in a push bottom under the dash...only works when I turn the original switch on). Can I ground it to the frame?Thanks for the help, Daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

25 minutes ago, ddiaz396 said:

Willie, I posted  before but I don't see it in the forum so here goes again...what kind of fuel pump do you use? airtex, Mr Gasket, Carter? do I need to spend a lot of $$$?where do you get the power to it?do you use a relay? what size of wire for the power? 16g, 12g? can I get the power from the switch that go to the starter (my started in the accelerator it's not working, I connected a cable with power in a push bottom under the dash...only works when I turn the original switch on). Can I ground it to the frame?Thanks for the help, Daniel

Post  #171

Autozone sells one that is probably an Airtex, but lifetime guaranteed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281596075987?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true ...buy 2 and carry a spare.

Ground to the frame; put a toggle switch in the hole left lower dash (power antenna); find 12v switched on the fuse panel...there is a tab just for this.

Edited by old-tank (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

It was vapor lock!!!! Today I removed the cheap fuel filter before the pump, connected a solid metal line to the pump and run the car.....once again 15/20 minutes and the car starved of fuel and quit on me.....I got frustrated and walked away, very upset.....4 hours later returned back(car cooled down)  to get the car and tried to start the engine and.....it worked!! the car runs fine.... so tomorrow, I will install an electric fuel pump with a off/on switch under the dash(I got a pump from ebay) ...will see 

IMG_20170317_202835485.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Daniel, the fuel line between the pump and the frame was a flex line that moved with engine torque. Make sure it can flex so it doesn't break under vibration. Good luck with the pump! Glad she's running.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I think I found the problem..... I was going to install the electric fuel pump, when I decided to tray something else(I really wanted to find what  was going on!!)...so I pulled the gas tank down (I ordered a new sending unit) when I empty the tank, nothing estranged, but when I removed the old sending unit....oh boy!!!! big surprise.....something was at the bottom...so I shaked the tank up and then I discovered the source of my problem.....some rat ( or mouse) built a nest in my tank!!! Using the material from the seats Remember....this was a brand new tank...it set in my garage for sometime ( maybe a couple of years) but it was in a box...inside a plastic bag....anyway, the "critter " found the way....it was my fault that I didn't check it out...I assume that " new tank...will be clean" big mistake!!! With the tank down, I cleaned it very well....used a hose and a lot of water .....dry it out with a garden blower and I used a bottle of alcohol.I'm waiting for the ordered new ending unit....I can wait to reinstall the tank and drive the car....

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the staff floating in the tank, clogged the sending unit, making the car(or pump)starve of gas....

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! I was thinking this whole time it seemed like junk in the tank, but I wouldn't have checked a new tank either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your new sending unit will probably connect to the gas line with a hose, instead of the fitting shown on the old one. You MUST ground the unit some way, or it will not work.

 

  Ben

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody!!!

..can I ask you a few questions?  Going back to the Dynaflow, the transmission is working great but leak....John told me that , maybe the car needs to be drive but the leak will not stop....so yesterday I drained the transmission and today I will start to replace the ball torque ( I got the new one, with the rubber seal attached)My questions(hope you don't mind!!) I will leave the transmission in place but I will loose the rear end and with a come along get the 4 or 5 inches needed to remove the ball torque... so 1- Do I need to remove the tires to pull it back?2- when I replace the ball torque how tight it need to be?should I be able to rotate the universal joint or it need to be very tight? should I use some lube in the reattachment? 3-when you did yours, did you replace the torque tube seal? will I have enough room to replace the torque tube seal without pulling the transmission down? With the new ball torque kit I got a diagram that show a seal in the universal joint at the back of the inner torque...can this be a place for a leak or the inner ball torque seal will stop any leaks coming from the rear of the transmission?Once again thanks for your help!! If you ever come to Fl I will own you a beer!! Any other suggestions or advise that you may think to help me to do the job? Daniel

PS I hope my english is clear enough....remember it's my second language...gracias!!  

diagram.jpg

seal2.jpg

kit.jpg

torque seal.jpg

trans8.jpg

leak.jpg

anybody??Advise will be appreciate!!Tips, tricks, know how, etc, welcome.....thanks in advance!!! Daniel

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Bor said:

Your new sending unit will probably connect to the gas line with a hose, instead of the fitting shown on the old one. You MUST ground the unit some way, or it will not work.

 

  Ben

Thanks Ben...I think it has a brake fuel line connection....but I will ground it anyway 

  • 50-51-52-53-54-55-56-Buick-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-NEW
  • 50-51-52-53-54-55-56-Buick-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-NEW
Have one to sell? Sell now

50 51 52 53 54 55 56 Buick Gas Fuel Tank Sending Unit NEW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Daniel

when I swapped out my transmission, I had the rear of the car on jack stands and did not have to take off the wheels to pull it back enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Half of the job is done......pulled rear end and removed ball torque seal...and I think I found were the seal was damaged..now I will replace the seal and put everything back together .also I just notice that the torque ball has a direction ( I didn't noticed it before....maybe I placed the torque ball in the wrong position, may be that was the leak?

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I decided to rebuild the Dynaflow accumulators.... I search in the web for information, couldn't find anything of" how to"...so I took my spare transmission and I did it myself. Took lots of pictures in case somebody else need this information. Also I rebuilt the high accumulator in the " original" transmission and I find out why the transmission didn't work..... the piston in the valve was frozen with rust....the accumulator wasn't working so the transmission was not getting in gear...I think that somebody use the wrong stop nut, when I tight the nut ,it will depress the valve and the valve will not come back up. Please somebody look at the pictures and tell me if something is wrong. Should be a hole in the stop nut, allowing the axel of the valve to go up? Because when I tigh the stop valve the valve get depressed inside the body of the accumulator so it does not pump. The other one( first pictures )is working fine. Both accumulators are a little be different. Thanks Daniel

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

one is 1957 Buick(8 small holes, this one was installed in the original Dynaflow that I replaced) the other (six holes) 1956 Buick from the spare car.

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In this one (1957 Buick?) you can't see the piston...it's inside the accumulator and will not operate when you push the accelerator...image.jpeg

but if I remove the top nut, works ok...maybe it's the wrong top nut?image.jpeg

 

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go with the working 6 small hole unit.  55 has a 6 small hole accumulator.  The circulation diagram (through the accumulator) appears to be the same 55 and 56.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Accumulators back on the car transmission ...I put them apart, cleaned and they are working fine. Tomorrow I will reassembly the torque ball. Big day!

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now