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new 1956 Super owner


ddiaz396

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1 hour ago, ddiaz396 said:

Nice to hear from you John!! Hope you and your family are ok....difficult times we are living...

 

It has been a tough year. But we'll get through it. Meantime we are okay here so far.  Helps that the toys are driveable.  Hoping you and your family are all well too. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can somebody elaborate about this?" I found an old file, from old-tank, talking about "the highly volatile available fuel means that added heat below the carb is not needed.  I would just plug the manifold and use the non cut out gasket". Im rebuiding my Carter WCFB and before  putting it back I will like an advise, please .My rebuilding kit have both gaskets... (how do you plug the manifold? )(should I use a heat raise adapter?)Thanks!

carburetor.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396
error (see edit history)
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I'm in SoCal, and have my heat cross over in the intake manifold blocked off with molten aluminum.  It's overkill, but a budy had access to a foundty...  On the exhaust manifold, I deleted the valve and blocked the holes with pins.  I run a Carter WCFB with no problems.

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Carburetor is back on the car after deep cleaning, replaced gasket, jets and metering rods cleaned. The car started fine, but after 1 or 2 minutes idling will die....restarted several time(after adjusting timing) and again same problem(will restart fine, run a little and stop...as is running out of gas)when idling sounds good...to late now i will keep trying it tomorrow. Any suggestions? maybe the floats needs adjustment and is low on gas? Choke is not connected yet...for now, is open all the way. Thanks, Daniel

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  • 3 weeks later...

1956 Buick Super, can I remove the high accumulator from the Dinaflow transmission (without removing the transmission???)? I have a leak and I think is the accumulator seal. Also, I exchanged the transmission from the Super, using the Dinaflow from my spare 1956 Special. Acumulators are different.What about carburetor/transmission linkage? Different?(pedal starter is disconnected, car use a start bottom). Can i replace the Carter WBFC for a newer Edelbrock carburetor? (when I got the car, it has a Edelbrock carburetor on,not buying a new one)Car is or will be a driver. Thanks, Daniel.(notice accumulators pictures...left one have 6 smallholes, right one 8...I dont know wich one is the Super or Special Dinaflow. 

accu.jpeg

accum1.jpeg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, ddiaz396 said:

1956 Buick Super, can I remove the high accumulator from the Dinaflow transmission (without removing the transmission???)? I have a leak and I think is the accumulator seal. Also, I exchanged the transmission from the Super, using the Dinaflow from my spare 1956 Special. Acumulators are different.What about carburetor/transmission linkage? Different?(pedal starter is disconnected, car use a start bottom). Can i replace the Carter WBFC for a newer Edelbrock carburetor? (when I got the car, it has a Edelbrock carburetor on,not buying a new one)Car is or will be a driver. Thanks, Daniel.(notice accumulators pictures...left one have 6 smallholes, right one 8...I dont know wich one is the Super or Special Dinaflow. 

What does your service manual say?

Replace the gasket and use the one that was functioning on the the car.  The original WCFB is best for your car.

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I was having problems with the acceleration pump in my carburetor(Carter), so I removed it and rebuilt again.Now the car is runing better. I need to set the timing in the car...when I use the timing light I need to disconnect the vacum advance first? 5 degrees will do? . Also is time to adjust the valves in the 322, any advice how to do it right? but first I will like to do a compression test. Can somebody guide me the proper procedure to do a compression test.Thanks, Daniel.

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Disconnect the vacuum advance set with the engine idling as low as possible (300rpm).

Mine likes 7 degrees with the available fuel.

Valves are not adjustable.

Disconnect the coil and crank with the throttle wide open.  Follow directions on YOUR gauge pertaining to hook up.  Record findings.

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  • 2 months later...

I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and rebuilt my Carter carburetor AGAIN!!! This time I did a deep cleaning (remove the four low speed jets, four metering jets ,metering rods, pump relief plug(didn't remove the pump intake check ball since it was moving freely in place) jet housing, ETC! The gasket from the air horn teared a little be, used some Permatex(is this ok??)As the carburetor was rebuilt many times in the past, I don't know if everything is as it should be and I have some questions.1- Is the orientation of the swing vacumeter piston at the piston link important? How do you place the piston and the spring back in the cylinder hole?(put the spring first and then lower the air horn with the piston already attached?)Is there a trick how to place the metering rod in the jets on the same operation?(is done but it was very difficult!). The 4 metering jets(2 primary 2 secondary) have same number?? Thanks.

PS what kind of spak plug will work replacing the original AC Type 44? Autolite 85 will do?

carb.jpg

carburetor.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everybody, a few days ago I got connected with Michael Bengtsson from Sweden. He has a 1956 Buick Super and he need some molding and tim for his car. I imagine it must be very difficult to find parts for your Buick in Sweden ... can somebody help?

Hello ddias396,

my name is Michael Bengtsson from Sweden.

I have followed your progress with restoring your 56 Buick. I do have a 1956 Buick Super 4 d hardtop and am in to restore it. I do miss some of teh outer trim. On right rear door and the fender i miss the trim, and on left side the door trim.

Somewere I noticed you have cars for spare parts.

I have surched for these parts for several years but no one seems to have any. Is it possible you have spares and can sell me those parts?

 

My alias is IVPorte and I´m a member of the AACA.

Sinceraly

Michael Bengtsson, Sweden

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SANY0069.JPG

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I found the answer! "Unfortunately that's life with the fuel being produced now (ethanol adds to the issue). Whenever gas sits in the carb bowl for any length of time this is the result. Carb bowls are vented which allows air to begin the process of the fuel breaking down."

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  • 3 weeks later...

I’ve got exactly the same carb and engine you have meaning, you can make that auto choke work if you really want to and they work very well.

 

Buy the little tube kit from cCars or whatever they’re called that runs from your choke downward and just sits in a little hole on the inside of the passenger side exhaust manifold, then work on adjustment, detailed instructions are in your manual and are not difficult 

 

Mine was not hooked up when I bought it, installed that pretty quickly having never done it before, the tube just bends by hand, cut it to fit, I think it came with the little ferral or nut to secure it to the choke housing, I first tested the thermostatic spring with a torch, takes a few tries getting it adjusted properly as you have the engine on and off, getting to temperature then cooling off period, but it’ll work great 

Edited by jw1955buick (see edit history)
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  • 7 months later...
36 minutes ago, ddiaz396 said:

Hi, my neighbor is telling me that the current spark plug wires(carbon) don't work with the 1956 Buick's electrical system...is that correct?https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/are-you-using-the-best-spark-plug-wires-for-your-application/

I don't think that is correct.  And that article you linked to does not say that.  

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Hi @ddiaz396.  I am doing well.  How about you?  Hows the 56 doing?  I looked at my 56's plug wires and I cannot tell if they are solid cores or not. I am using these on all my Buicks and have been very satisfied with them. 

20220412_200222.jpg20220412_195936.jpg

The main thing is to get the 90° SPARK PLUG BOOT  if you are using the spark plug covers..and I use that black plastic wire loam all the way to the plug, including under the spark plug cover. 

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I'm having a hard time with my WCFB Carter carb... I've removed the carb several times last week, soaked it in carb cleaner, checked every jet and cleaned it... and it still doesn't run right (rough idle). It will replace the spark plugs (autolite 85) and spark plug wires (modern carbon fiber) and go on from there. I'll have to restore (by someone who knows what they do) the Carter carb. Does anyone know the size of the screw for the air horn on top of the carb? Someone replaced some of the screws and they don't work very well (could it be a vacuum leak through them?), so I need to buy a tap and die set and get the screws threaded right. (can it be restored?). Can anyone recommend someone who can restore a Carter carb?.

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I believe all of the screws holding the airhorn onto the bowl are a fillister head 10x32 thread. There are several different lengths used.

 

The screw holding the pump jet is different, but don't remember without measuring.

 

As many times as you have gone through the carburetor, I would be looking at something different, specifically the ignition.

 

One of the most common causes today of a rough idle is an electronic conversion in the distributor WITHOUT replacing the generator with an alternator! Often, once maybe 1500 RPM is achieved, these will be OK, but generator voltage insufficient to make the idle function well.

 

Second most common ignition issue today is condensers made in China. A good average is that maybe 1 out of 10 MIGHT last 3 weeks; the other 9 may not work at all. 

 

Jon

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On 8/12/2021 at 2:11 PM, ddiaz396 said:

Took Carter carburetor to clean and I found this Grey powder...my fuel filter is clean...my neighbor told me that is deterioration of aluminum in the carburetor...is this correct?

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Carb guy I talked with called that white powder residue 'flowering', once the original smooth as manufactured surface is corroded away, it continues deteriorating, producing the powder your seeing. Was told my rare Delorto side draft carbs needed expensive coating to save. Expensive is not on a line in my resume! Can't even spell the word rite!

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Yes Jon, I also suspect something electric...No electronic conversion in the car. I ordered new spark plugs (Old tank I recommend Autolite 85) and tried to get solid core copper wires, but I couldn't find it...tomorrow I'm going to replace spark plug and wires  and I'm going to check the condenser. If it keeps failing, then it's the carburetor (I'm also going to check the rotor, points and distributor cap). Next step...I have an edelbroock carburetor, I'm going to buy a plate adapter and install it as a replacement (only temporary) for the Carter and see what happens .

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I found the problem!! After trying everywhere, I removed the cover of the metering rods and noticed that they did not move when accelerated. One of the jets leaked gas because the metering rods did not move down with the vacuum from the engine. Thanks to the fact that I have a very good neighbor who knows about classic cars, he told me that the vacuum hole in the metering rods was clogged. Pull out the carb one more time. I removed the screw at the bottom of the carb where the vacuum hole is for the metering rods and it was clogged!! I used carb cleaner and blew it out with air, put it back in the car and BOOM!! it's working...I never would have thought to look in that place, because I soaked the carb for 4 hours, blew it with air from the compressor many times all over...it never occurred to me, that it was clogged in that place. Thanks to my neighbor for his help!! Tomorrow I will take a photo and post it in case someone has the same problem that way everyone will know how to fix it.

wcfb metering rod adjustment.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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