Guest LarryB Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I'm almost done. A few more adjustments I will have completed the Drum to Disc Brake conversion on my 1941 Buick Super. In addition I replaced the King Pins, Upper and lower control arm shanks and new tie rods. The brakes rub slight on the new pads, but the car stops so much better. https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299436692427538https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299425821127986https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299429918626786https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299457687422194 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 hi larry, your four links turn up nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LarryB Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Lets try this again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Did you use scarebird ? What did you do for a master cylinder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 +1 on what Bill asked. Also, will you be able to use the stock wheels? Are they 5 on 5 bolt pattern?Approximate TOTAL cost? Like is it $500 or $2k?Thanks, looks good (although next time you ought to put this in the modified section so people don't bust your BB's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 After investigation scarebird did supply the adapters. It uses a mid 90's Riviera rotor and a 2000's Astro (Chevy) caliper. Cost from Rock Auto is about 125 @ wheel. Plus 165 for adapters.PLus Scarebird has adapters for the back wheels too, Can you imagine a old Buick with 4 wheel disks ??Still need to know about Master Cylinder please... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LarryB Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I actually ordered the set from Kanter. They dropped shipped from ABS Power Brake. It was a complete set (Brackets, Rotors, Calibers, Pads, Wheel Cylinders). Set ran $750 for my car.I keep the stock single master cylinder, however, I did replace it for one that was resleeved (from Bob's), since I had a very slow leak even after replacing with a kit last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LarryB Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Also forgot to mention that I was able to use my same wheel. However had to get a set of lug nuts since the rotors already had the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapidride2 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Larry, your just the person i am in need of communicating with. I have a 52' roadmaster that i am going with rpm engineering disc brake kit out of California. I originally ordered a front disc conversion and a power assisted booster to be mounted under the car. However, in finding out my pedal assembly is different and i could only use an undesirable single bowl 7" in the stock location. If i want to use the more desirable 9'' dual master cyl. i would have to mount a different pedal assembly and place my master cyl. on the firewall,,,,not what i wanted to do.I NOW HAVE 3 OPTIONS 1. REBUILD STOCK FRONT BRAKES 2. Run manual disc brakes 3. Run power assisted brakes with an unsightly firewall mounted 9'' dual bowl master/booster assembly (for best performance) My question... Assuming you are now running a non-powered (manual) front disc brake kit,,, How does the car stop compared to the original drum brakes as far as pedal effort and performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LarryB Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 You can definately feel the difference between the drum and disc. The disc feel like I have a shorter stop and I can really push on the pedal if needed. The pedal is higher and I have to apply little effort to stop normally. With the drums at any significant speed trying to stop quickly had chatter and I could feel the back end sliding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Hey Larry What brake lines did you use from the calibers to the hard lines ? The brakes look realy nice. I'm working on a 52 special and now would be the time to change the brakes to disc.Thanks Oscar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LarryB Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Oscar,Right now, I'm using the original brake lines. I was able to use an adapter to go from the original to the new brake hoses. However, I have to plumb in the residual valves, so I will mostlikely have to redo all the brake lines. If I'm correct they are 3/16 lines, but I haven't pull them off to confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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