Riviera63

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About Riviera63

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/26/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.
  1. What you have pictured that you are going to put on are the standard wheel covers. They go on and remove just like any wheel cover that you are used to. The 2nd listing is for the cast aluminum covers. Which are actually bolted to the wheel./rim You have to remove the center spinner to access the lug nuts and remove the wheel/rim. Then you unbolt the covers from the back of the wheel/rim. Make sure you actually have wire wheel covers before you try to remove your covers. If you have the cast aluminum you will break them if you try to pry them off like a normal wheel cover. The 3rd listing is for the wire wheel covers. These pry off like normal wheel covers. That being said be very careful when you remove them as they can be very stubborn. Applying too much force can damage them. I have found using a wider tool to remove them works better as it spreads the force to prevent damage. Avoid a tool with sharp edges. I have used a 2 inch wide pry bar with the edges/corners wrapped with duct tape. I recently purchased a wheel cover removal tool suggested by other forum members that works well. Be patient and be gentle. Also have a soft landing area under the tire as these are very heavy and can pop and drop when they do let loose if you are not ready to catch it. Hope this helps. Bill
  2. Riviera63

    63 Light Switch Removal

    The following is from a previous post and you have already done some of it. The escutcheon is on the interior side of the console around the shaft of the light switch. It turns off just like a nut. As stated you need a screwdriver or putty knife to put in one of the grooves and lightly tap to turn it if you don't have an escutcheon tool. Once loosened it will turn by hand. Open the ashtray/lighter door in the console.There are 3 screws holding the assembly in, remove the screws. That whole assembly will remove and the headlight switch is right there. There is a pushpin on the switch. Push in on that and you can pull the shaft out. You then remove the switch escutcheon. I did not have the switch tool so I used a putty knife to turn it. Once the switch is released from the escutcheon the switch drops down for easy access through the opening left by the ashtray assembly. I hope this helps. Bill
  3. I have an electric washer pump on my car that was installed on the firewall by a previous owner. I love it for all of the reasons Ed said, it is not under the fender, it shoots a steady stream of fluid and it uses the same wiring. It is reliable and if it should fail it is very inexpensive to replace. I am pretty much a stock purist at heart but, in this case I will err on the side of ease of repair/installation, reliability and safety. It is small and not very noticeable. If I got ambitious I could move it to a location where it would be hidden. I have attached a picture showing mine. It is circled in red and the blue line shows the line going from the pump to the washer fluid bottle. Another line then would go from the pump, split and go to the chrome washer jets. The second picture shows this. I hope this is of help. Bill
  4. Tom, I believe you. I think I may have a problem getting it to the driveway and to the road though. Bill
  5. I hear you Chuck. I wish I had the space like you do to take car of things like that. Once upon a time I had a 2 stall, insulated, heated garage for the play cars. It was heaven. That really helps with cabin fever in the winter. I do feel lucky that at least I have a place on my current property to store it over the winter. It looks like you are really going to town on your Riv. Are you leaving it the original color and interior? I hope so, I thought the silver on silver was really sharp when I saw it in Flint. I can't wait to see the finished product. Back to the Bricks in 2019 is a possibility. Keep me posted on your progress. Bill
  6. Our state bird is the Robin. They probably wished they had listened to their friends in Mexico and stayed a couple of more weeks.
  7. I thought I would share these photos with you. We are now approaching 20" of snow in the last 2 days. Snowfall records for April are being shattered all over the state. We are well over 30" for the month of April. My snowblower and I have become very well acquainted again. The Riv will not be coming out for awhile longer. I will have to live viCARiously through those of you in warmer climes. Take an extra drive for me. Hopefully, the snow will be gone in time for Overland Park. Bill
  8. Rodney, It's one of those things that no one will know unless you tell them (mums the word) or you have read this thread. What they don't know won't hurt them. Stick it on, pat yourself on the back for a job well done and let people comment on how nice that trunk sticker looks. Bill
  9. Rodney, We are having another balmy spring day in central Wisconsin so I thought I would take advantage of that and get those pictures for you. (pictures attached) As I stated previously, my car is a late May 1963 build. The sticker location is very similar to the one in the pictures Jim posted. Bill P.S. We are supposed to receive 9-11 inches of "balmy" before it ends sometime tomorrow.
  10. Rodney, I will get you a photo of the sticker as soon as I can. Bill
  11. Tom, I was not trying to imply that they should be or were ever painted originally. Mine also looked like old black tire tubes that were cut up. Except that they were 50+ year old cut up black tire tubes with 50+ years of grime, grease, etc. on them and frankly looked like crap. I CHOSE to clean them and paint them before reinstalling. No more no less. Bill
  12. Steve, You will have to remove the rear bumper. Attached are some pictures of when I had my rear bumper off. My bumper fillers were all there. I cleaned them up and painted them, which of course you will not have to do. I think from the pictures you can make out the clips and the filler. My original clips were there and held the filler nice and tight. The rubber is contoured to fit the shape of the metal it attaches to and the contour of the bumper. My filler is not visible when the bumper is on. I hope this helps. Bill
  13. Rodney, My car is a later build, May 1963. Mine is in the flat area directly to the left of the sticker pictured above. Almost 100% certain my sticker is the original. Will try to wade through the snow (5-9 inches starting tomorrow, welcome spring) to get to the car to take a picture and post it for others that may have a later build with the same question. Bill
  14. Jerry, A couple of years ago I had purchased a center armrest and refurbished it with the intentions of installing it in my 63. I was under the impression that the seat frame was basically the same as a 64-65 and that you may only have to drill holes for the mounting bolts. After I got my car out of winter storage I was ready for the install. I removed the rear seat and found out as you did the seat frame is not the same as the 64-65. It also was not as simple as drilling holes to attach it. If my memory serves me correctly it would have taken some reworking of the center braces so that it would sit flush with the seat and the addition of tabs with holes for the attaching bolts. Probably not a huge deal for someone with welding skills. I could have hired someone to do it but, in the end I decided to leave it original and sold the armrest. Bill
  15. Riviera63

    65 glovebox

    There is an AC and non AC version. The AC version is not as deep. Sounds like they sent the wrong one. Bill