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About Riviera63

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/26/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.

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  1. Get as much of the crud off as you can with the usual methods, soap and water, glass cleaner, etc. Once you get them reasonably clean use a clay bar. I do this at least once a year. It is amazing how much stuff you can get off of glass you think is clean. This will get the glass very clean and smooth. Really helps the glass shed water. Bill
  2. I had CARS weatherstrip originally. They were fine but, manufactured backwards. They were unable to supply me with correct replacements. After several weeks of waiting I had to cancel and move on. I finally just bit the bullet and ordered a set from Steele Rubber. Hopefully, they will be here in a couple of days and I can get this project finished.
  3. No need. They added some pictures since the last time I looked on their website. They show the metal tabs. Thanks. Bill
  4. Thanks for that. Did they have the metal tabs? I never have had any problems with any Steele Products I have ordered. They are priced so much higher than the others which scared me away at first but, it looks as if I should have just gone with them in the beginning and skipped all of the headaches. I called Clark's Corvair about their weatherstrip. The person I talked to had no clue as to who made theirs and whether they had the metal clips. Has anyone tried their weatherstrip? Bill
  5. I am contemplating sending the Metro weatherstrip back as their is no metal tab inside the thick rubber tab as the vendor said there was. I was checking to see other alternatives. I know that I can get them from Steele Rubber but, wanted to see if there were any others. Just for the heck of it I went to the OPGI (I know, I know) website to look at their weatherstrip and got a little surprise. They advertise that their weatherstrip is made by Metro Moulded Parts, Inc. The weatherstrip they have pictured has the metal tabs as I think they should have. See pic. I find it curious that there would be 2 different Metro versions out there. I would have been happy with that version. I reached out to Metro asking about this and will be curious to see their response. Bill
  6. Hi Rodney, Thanks for replying. What you came up with for a fix came to me in the middle of the night. I did have the concern that being that thick it would bind in the door and that a screw might scratch. The vendor did mention that there was a metal tab in that thick attaching point, so cutting it down won't compromise its strength or holding power. I'm sorry that you had damage done to your car. At least I can finally get this simple project that was begun 6 weeks ago finished. I originally had ordered a set from CARS. I had the old weatherstrip out and the door cleaned and ready for the new pieces. I pulled them out and found that they had been manufactured incorrectly. The pins were in the reverse order of what they should have been. See pics. I contacted them and they said they would send a new set. They must have had a bad batch from their manufacturer as they did not have a good set to send me. I waited 5 weeks for them to get some in and finally cancelled the order and got my money back. I then ordered a set from Rubber the Right Way. Several days after I ordered I received a message that they were on back order. I called them and they said 2-3 weeks before they would be in. I cancelled that order and got my money back. I then ordered the current set from a vendor on e-bay. The current set I have is from Metro which coincidentally is the supplier for Rubber the Right Way. (for about $30 more than I paid from this other vendor) For people that order a Metro set this is what you will have to deal with. Send me a couple of pics if you get a chance. Thanks, Bill
  7. Could anyone at least describe what that attaching tab is supposed to look like for me please? Here is what was on the set I received today. There was no pin supplied to attach with and no directions given with the set as to how to attach. See pics. I reached out to the vendor that I purchased them from and they said I was supposed to use a sheet metal screw. to attach with. The set I removed had a wire loop/tab that was held in place by a black pin like the ones that hold the end above it in. I also reached out to the manufacturer and the manufacturer said that no one has asked about this tab, questioned it and how it should be attached EVER. They were perplexed and said they would get back to me. They got back to me and said that they were sending me some longer pins that should work to attach it with. The normal size pins are too short. Any help appreciated as to what was on an original set. Thanks. Bill
  8. I have been trying for 6 weeks now to get weatherstrip for and/or installed around the doors on my car. A frustrating ordeal that started out as a simple afternoon project on a nice summer day. I am asking for a favor from one of you with a 63-65 Riviera. I need a picture of the original or correct replacement metal loop/tab that is attached 4 or 5 inches down from the top of the door please. See pic. Mine old ones are long gone and were a replacement set so I don't know if they were the same as the originals. I am in contact with one of the weatherstrip manufacturers that is not believing their product is not complete and not correct. Thanks. Bill
  9. Riviera63

    a/c conversion

    I totally agree with that. I replaced the knee dash pad on the passenger side of my car awhile back. While doing this I also removed the brackets for the evaporator to clean and paint them. Not too bad taking everything out with the seat in but, getting everything back in was a different story. If you are like me you are finding that your body does not bend and twist like it used too. Taking the seat out makes things much easier. Bill
  10. Nick, That is truck topper tape. It was added to create some space between my fuel tank and the trunk floor. Part of my rattle problem was things hitting/rubbing on the trunk floor. Scroll down from the beginning of the link you first posted. (I copied it here) You will find where I posted pictures that showed this and talked about the fixing of my rattle. Bill
  11. Not that bad of a drive for me, it's 4 lane all the way. I would be happy to help out if you need it. I can also give you the name of an inspector. He is located about half way between Green Bay and Stevens Point. I would trust him. His name is John Gunnell. He has been an automotive author for over 40 years writing books and still writes articles for national publications. He also began a restoration garage known as "Gunner's Great Garage" after "retiring". Pontiac people will probably recognize his name. I know John and he has even done work on one of my collector cars. Among his many talents is classic car inspection and evaluation. I would trust him to give a fair, unbiased evaluation. Home phone number is 715-445-4262. The home number may be tied up by his computer as he is rural. Another number is 920-596-2273. i don't know if that is his cell phone or the garage number. I can do some more digging if you want. Bill
  12. Dick, Do as Ed said and look people in Green Bay. Other cities which are very close to Green Bay that you can also look for people are Appleton, Oshkosh, Neenah or DePere .I am in Stevens Point which is about 1 1/2 hours away. If you can't find anyone closer give me a shout. Bill
  13. Nick, I had my tank dropped last fall to cure the Riviera Rattle. For sure pull the sending unit, check the filter sock and clean out the tank. Here's a picture of what my filter sock looked like. Might be a good idea to redo the ground wire as well. Bill
  14. Yes, the base is used to hold down the spare on the rear shelf. Look at the 2nd picture I posted up above. Bill