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About Riviera63

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/26/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.
  1. I did not say that double and dual stage are the same. I was referencing your statement about the 63 manual " The 63 manual doesn't make any such clarification in the illustrations, but it does in the text: " The #1 and #2 diaphragms are enclosed in a dual diaphragm assembly". I said to me a double diaphragm means the same as dual diaphragm, double=dual meaning 2 diaphragms put together to make one in that statement. Not that double and dual stage are synonymous. As far as the STV and the cycling switch go I never said that the cycling switch duplicated the function of the STV I only reported that it was done to my car no more no less. I and as far as I know others have never stated that the terms used by myself and others are the correct terms. No one is trying to propagate an error. It is merely a way to distinguish between 2 different items. We all understand it. I think all of us that have 1963 Rivieras are clear that there are 2 single stage diaphragms and one dual stage diaphragm which is comprised of two, 2, double, dual, dos, a pair of diaphragms hooked together to make one. I'm out. Bill
  2. I would not know what the 64 manual would say. I only have a 63 and the 63 manual. I have only used terminology that was used previously and currently by others on this forum to describe these items. It is not something I invented. I understood what they were referring to as I am sure others did too. I guess to me a "dual diaphragm assembly" means the same as a "double actuator" and it was confirmed to me when I pulled my old (insert your own term here) out. It had dual (double) diaphragms. I take it in this situation as double meaning 2 diaphragms and single meaning 1 diaphragm regardless of the number of ports and how they are labelled in a service manual. I think we are getting too much into semantics and missing the larger picture. The fact is that the old (insert your own term here) that goes under the heater box is no longer available. In order to replace this old (insert your own term here) you have to replace it with a new (insert your own term here) that is not exactly the same as the old (insert your own term here) therefore requiring some changes that are not the same as original but, basically gives the same function as the old (insert your own term here). The new (insert your own term here) is exactly the same new (insert your own term here) as was ordered from Cold Air Products that is used in the engine compartment by the blower motor because the old (insert your term here) used under the heater box is no longer available. All I know is I figured it out reading those terms used by others, I did it and it works. That's all I have to say about that. Bill
  3. Tom, I think we have a misunderstanding in terminology. When I say and from what I understand that, other people mean when talking about this topic, double actuator is referring to the original actuator that had 2 (double) single diaphragms, one stacked on top of the other. When I(they) refer to a single actuator, I am referring to the new actuator that even though it has 2 ports has only a single diaphragm. Bill
  4. Bob, No, There is no double to be had or made. One single actuator (the same one as you bought for the engine compartment) replaces the double. With the double you had a vacuum line going to each diaphragm, giving you a choice of 1/2 open or full open. With the new actuator (which has 2 ports) you will have to make a choice between full open or 1/2 open. You will not have the choice as in the old set up. One of the lines that went to the old actuator will be plugged and not used. The other line you split by putting a "tee" in, creating 2 lines from that single line. These 2 lines you created will go on to the 2 ports of the new single actuator. If you want I can send you my e-mails from and to Jim Cannon on this. I'll try to find the thread that also discussed this. Thanks. Bill
  5. Bob, The air was converted before I bought the car. The STV is not used in this conversion. It looks like it is there but, the inner workings are gone. The cycling switch was added after I had the car when it was getting a new heater core and radiator. I had the guy also check over the air as well. I can't even pretend to understand all of these things. I believe the cycling switch was added because the STV was inoperative. The same diaphragm you got for the passenger side is the same diaphragm you use to replace the double diaphragm because those are no longer available. That conversion is discussed in other threads. Jim Cannon has commented on this in those threads. I followed his lead when I replaced mine. Bill
  6. I don't know. I have no idea what a modulator is. Describe it to me and I'll see if I have one and where it's located. Thanks. Bill
  7. Yes, it was converted to R134A and also has a cycling switch. I'm not sure exactly what the temp is at the vents. I know the guys that work on my car checked it once and if I remember correctly it was in the 40's. They seemed to think it was fine. I am anxious to try it out and see how it does with good air flow. The vacuum actuator is next to the blower motor and to the left of the STV (or what's left of it). Thanks for the pat on the back. I have had this car for 4 years now and I remember my first look at all of those vacuum hoses, the inside of the heater/AC control box on the fender and thought OMG what is this? I will never understand this mess! It was like looking at a book written in Chinese. Now that I have done some things with the HVAC system I think I have a good basic understanding of it works and it is not nearly as daunting as it once seemed. I'm not afraid of it anymore. It's been a lot of fun learning and doing new things to my car and seeing positive results. Bill
  8. Bob, Thank you for starting this thread. Reading this has helped me solve the problem I have had with my AC since I purchased my car. I too, had the same problem. Cold air, you could hear the blower fan going for all it was worth but, low air flow at the AC vents in the car. The maddening thing is that it would blow fine once in a great while. I went through and did several things that in hindsight were all good to do but, did not solve my problem. Including but not limited to replacing the #@%!*&! double diaphragm which was shot and removing the blower/heater box to replace the spring in there. I was fortunate to have small hands as I don't know how I would have gotten a couple of those screws out or back in on that heater box without a hoist to put the car on. This post that you and Tom were going back and forth on set me on the path to getting my car cooling the way it should. I just finished replacing the passenger side vacuum actuator on my car a half an hour ago. Problem solved! Powerful air flow out of all AC vents. Of course, now it probably won't get hot again until next summer. Here's hoping for hot weather for the trip to the ROA convention in Overland Park, KS next year. This is gives me a great sense of relief and accomplishment. This may not seem like much to the guys that know these cars and are mechanics but, for the "shade tree" mechanic it doesn't get any better than this. In my doing this replacement I ended up dealing with the #1, #2 and #3 vacuum switches because I did some vacuum line replacement. I talked to Jim Cannon about these. You should check all 3 to make sure that the plungers move freely. The grease hardens and they get sticky after all of these years. Spray some silicone in the vacuum ports and move the plungers back and forth to get them moving freely. Do not use WD 40. It may be that yours was just stuck. You can also put vacuum on the ports by mouth or with a vacuum tool to see if they work when you move the plungers. I had a couple that were pretty sticky. They are pretty easy to get to and remove. I hope you get to the bottom of your problems soon and thanks for indirectly helping me solve mine. Bill
  9. Tom, If you did find a suitable core how much would you want for it? The reason I ask is that I have found a correct alternator that is already rebuilt and refurbished for a pretty reasonable price. Depending on how much you want plus shipping to me, shipping to the rebuilder, the cost of rebuilding, and finally the shipping back to me. It may be more cost effective for me to just get the one already done. I don't want you to do all that digging and searching and then say no. Let me know. Thanks. Bill
  10. Tom, I am looking for a 52 amp alternator as I have an AC car. The alternator that was in my car was only a 37 amp. Can I use a higher amp Delco from another year with out any problems? Such as a 55 amp or 61 amp? I am not sure sure yet which way I am going to go but, one of the things I have considered is finding a good Delco core of a suitable amperage with a double pulley that I can get rebuilt/restored. I would be open to seeing what you have. Thanks for the offer. Bill
  11. Ed, As I said in that post I just threw what this person said for informational purposes only. I was not making a statement as to who was right or who was wrong. The alternator that is correct for our cars is a 52 amp not a 55 amp so that's not a true test. I found many remanufactured Delcos, in fact most with the black fan and pulley. My friend on the forum that I referenced had his rebuilt and it came back black which is what prompted this discussion. I am not concerned about how the remanufactured alternators look I was wanting to know what the original alternator looked like. A 1100622 or 1100633 52 amp alternator from Delco is going to be made to look the same whether its on a 1963 Buick Riviera or a 1963 Corvette, double or single pulley. In his defense he never said the double pulley was one piece. In fact, he comes right out and says that. He was referring to single pulley set ups from this time period. As he said the 2 pieces were tack welded together not forged in one piece of one metal. I value the opinions of the people on this forum which is why I monitor it and ask questions. To insinuate that I don't is wrong. As he said ask 10 people you'll get 10 different answers. Information is power. Discussion is good and hopefully at the end of it all we arrive at the correct answer to the question
  12. For informational purposes I e-mailed someone that does concours restorations of alternators asking him what finish they put on the 1963 GM alternator fan and pulley and why. This is what he said back: "As for the color I'm almost 100 % sure that Delco started zinc plating fans around 1967, most 1963 - 1966 alternator came with the one piece fan/pulley and in my 38 years of doing alternators I have never seen a zinc plated one piece fan/pulley on an original core, and I have never ever seen a double pulley zinc plated on a 1963 unit. I believe all double pulleys were painted black and the fans that were used with them painted also, and since the double pulley was never offered as a one piece fan/pulley the 1963-1965 fans were different then later date fans. In 1963 the one piece fan/pulley had round spot welds on the pulley to hold it to the fans, in 1966 they came with rectangal spot weld on the pulleys to hold it to the fans. This alternator has the correct 1963 fan. I believe that the zinc plated fans and pulleys were used on HI-OP units around 67, but the pulleys were different on the corvette the pulleys a wide space before the fan and the camaros and chevelle had a deep groove pulley. If you ask 10 people you'll get 10 different answers. So having said that I believe all double pulleys were painted and so were the fans used with them."
  13. Thanks guys. The alternator that I took off was a 1967 build date and had the silver cad pulley and fan. I was confused as the forum member that I was talking to said his were painted black. Most of the Delco Remy remanufactured alternators that I have seen have them painted black. I also have seen alternators that supposedly had concours restorations where they are date correct, have all of the correct stamps on the casing, dated diodes, etc. and they also had black pulleys and fans. They want pretty big bucks for those. It would be a little upsetting to pay that much and find out things weren't correct. I see that Eastwood sells a silver cad spray paint. That might do the trick. Has anyone used this? Thanks. Bill
  14. I am possibly getting an alternator rebuilt for my 63 Riv. I have been in contact with another forum member that just had his 1963 alternator rebuilt. He was not sure that the pulley had been painted the correct color. What is the correct finish for the fan and pulley on a 1963 Riviera alternator? My alternator was the wrong amperage and year so I cannot use that as a guide for the correct finish. I have been looking at different possibilities for getting another alternator from rebuilding an original with the correct date code to a Delco Remy that is already remanufactured. My car has air so I need the 52 amp alternator. There are many Delco Remy alternators out there that will work. Will most of the Delcos from the 60's work and fit as long as they have at least the 52 amps recommended? I see many out there from the 60's with a 55 amps, or 61 amp rating. Any input appreciated. Thanks. Bill
  15. Bob, The transaction I described was not an internet transaction. This was a transaction conducted with a vendor that I found advertising in the Riview. This vendor is in the US and you cannot get new steel wheels from any company that I am aware of. When I say steel wheels I am referring to the original black painted wheels that these cars came with originally. If you want these wheels you have to buy original, OEM, used steel wheels. I found out later that this particular vendor has had several complaints from various people for various things. I knew exactly what I wanted, I knew exactly what I expected and I expressed this to the vendor before buying. HE did not understand and HE did not follow through with what was asked of him. Yes, I found that when you measure from the outside edge of the rim through the center to the other outside edge the 6 inch rim is 1/8' wider than the 5.5 inch rim. The measurements I came up with were: 6 inch-16 5/8" 5.5 inch rim 16 1/2". Bill