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About Riviera63

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.
  1. HI, I have a very nice original manual antenna for sale. This antenna was just removed from my 1963 Riv less than 2 weeks ago. I had thought about keeping it but, decided that I would rather have someone make use of it rather than sit on a shelf for 25 years. The chrome mast is in nice shape with no pits or marks. The black plastic insulator is also in nice shape with no cracks. It also comes with a mounting bracket. I have it for sale on e-bay for $75.00 plus S & H. Forum price $50.00 plus S & H. PM me if you are interested and I can figure the shipping cost for you. I will also be in Brookfield for the BCA Meet and could bring it there to save on S & H. Thanks. Bill
  2. Hi, I have a brand new ROA License Plate Frame for sale. I ordered 2 for my Riv not realizing that the frame sits a little too high to use in the rear. It will hit the license plate light and you will not be able to open the fuel filler door. This is a really nice, high quality, chrome, metal frame. These sell for $10.00 plus $4.00 Shipping from the ROA. I will sell for $9.00 and send it first class which should be less for shipping, saving you a couple of bucks. I will also be in Brookfield for the BCA Meet and can bring it there to save on S & H. PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill
  3. I love finding those things as well. Getting just the antenna out is pretty easy. Send it out to Barney Eaton. He will get it running like new at a very reasonable price and has a quick turnaround. At least he did with me. He might be a little busier now. Bill
  4. You are welcome. I have a few more pictures of the power antenna install in a separate thread " Operation Power Antenna Successful" if you are interested. Thanks. Bill
  5. Tom, You were correct about the dash pad clips. Your description made absolutely no sense before we tackled the antenna install. Once we got the dash pad off and saw the clips it all fell into place. We got the dash pad back in with no damage. Thanks. Bill
  6. Hi, The long awaited installation of my power was today and I am happy to say successful. All in all it was "relatively" painless. As usual with any project that one does, you see where you could streamline the process or do things differently if you did it over. There was a lot of learning that went on (so that's how they did that) and that is one of the things that is so rewarding. We did have a couple of anxious moments. We removed the glove box liner for a little easier access to everything. After we reinstalled it we closed the glovebox door and then could not get the door open again. Push the button, the door popped up but, would not release. We were beside ourselves as we saw no reason why it would not release and saw no way to get in there to access the problem. After a long period of brainstorming and attempts to get it open we were stumped. For some reason I tried it one more time and it opened. Once open we could see that the problem was that a screw to hold the glove box liner in place was too long and was trapping the wire latch on the door in place even though the lock mechanism had released it. The other anxious moment was when I was testing running the antenna mast up and down. I did not realize how long this mast is! I was running it up with the intention of putting it up all of the way. It is a good thing we both were paying attention as it went up and hit the overhead garage door, curved and tried to keep on going sideways. Fortunately no damage. The only casualty was a plastic wire connector that I had in my pocket and is still missing in action even after clean-up. Luckily I had another one. I have attached some pictures that might be of interest showing some different items. Including the often described but, rarely seen dash clips. One of the most interesting discoveries we made was two sets of the number 522 that were used on the assembly line I assume to make sure that the correct dash pad was placed in the correct car body. I also got to see the assembly date of my dash cluster, April 11, 1963 which jives with the May 1963 assembly of my car. If anyone has any questions I would be happy to answer them. Bill
  7. Tom, Thanks for that. I'm sure your post will be of help and we will get it figured out somehow. I will report back with the results of our adventure and try to take some pictures of the process, clips, etc. to help along anyone else that may try the power antenna install and /or dash pad removal. Bill
  8. Hi, This Sunday my brother-in-law and I are going to attempt to replace the fixed antenna mast on my 63 with a power antenna. I have all the necessary components including the power antenna mast unit which Barney Eaton did his magic on. Barney is great. If you have a power antenna issue, give Barney a shout. I am just looking for some tips or advice from anyone that has done this that may make our installation go a bit smoother. I have already gotten the access panel loosened so that will be no problem. We are assuming that the installation will be easier if we remove the dash pad. Is this assumption true? This is my first concern. I have read all of the threads which talk about how to remove the dash pad. I understand the concept. A couple of weeks ago I tried to get it off. It would not budge. Yes, I had all of the screws out. I am hesitant to use brute force as it is pristine and do not want to damage. Does anyone have any little tricks or advice they may have that they used to loosen a stubborn dash pad? Any advice on any part of this process would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill
  9. Winston, That's hilarious! I will keep that in mind. Bill
  10. Ed, You have solved the problem indirectly for me by having me go to a diagram. I was going to scan the page from the chassis manual that shows the wiring for the horns and put it in the thread when I replied to you. I looked at the diagram again and then went back out to the car to take a look. Operator error seems to be the problem. For some reason I plugged the brown wire from the horn relay into the wiring harness instead of the blue wire. Why? I don't know. Switched the wires around and everything is as it should be. The horns sound fantastic. I can't wait to try them out on someone. It should not take very long to find my first victim with the way people drive. Thanks. Bill
  11. Hi, I got my main wiring harness fixed up for the 4 note horns and installed. When I hit the horns I only get the stock horns. I have tested the hood mounted horns individually by jumping them to the battery and they work fine. When tested individually or as a pair hooked up with the main wiring harness all I get is a fainting clicking when I depress the horn bar. Any ideas or suggestions as to what the problem might be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bill
  12. Tom, I have a copy of the 64 Service Manual page and the 65 page that you sent me. Both seem to show a ground wire going just from the small horn lower bracket to the firewall. Neither seems to show a wire from the large horn to the smaller horn as the 63 Service Manual shows. It is hard to tell though as the 64 & 65 copies I have are fairly small and slightly blurry. I do have the horns mounted and the hood seems to close with no problems. I had a ground wire made and have it attached. I ran it from the lower bracket on the small horn to the firewall. There was a phillips screw in my firewall that served no apparent purpose and it seemed to be in a good location so I did not even have to drill a hole. Jim Cannon suggested using star washers on the ground wire connections and also to put one on one of the the bolts for the larger horn to get a good bite on the metal through the paint. I did as Jim suggested with the star washers. I did install the main wiring yet as I am having a couple of the connector connections redone as they seemed a bit iffy. I tested each horn separately by using a jumper wire to the battery. Both horns worked to perfection. The horn tone had been adjusted by the vendor before he sent them to me. The sound seemed good to me. We'll see how things work when I get the main harness installed. Thanks to Chuck for the ground wire picture and thanks to Jim for all of his advice that he sent my way in this thread and via a PM. Bill
  13. Rodney, My Hot/Cold lenses fell out as well. I did not notice until I went to fire it up the next day. It gave me quite a shock to see bare bulbs lighting up in front of me and seeing them missing. Fortunately, they dropped out inside the gauge. Getting out the clock with them in is easier than getting it reconnected. Bill
  14. Rodney, If you have the other bezels off, leave them off until you remove and then reattach the clock. I removed the bezels when I reinstalled the clock. I seemed to get better access and leverage when reattaching the light and power lead. Bill
  15. Hi Rodney, I am not Winston but, yes, you are correct. After you rotate, you pull it straight toward you. Have fun disconnecting the light bulb and power connector. You will have even more fun reconnecting them. That is where GM could have splurged with a couple more inches of wire. Bill