Randiego

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About Randiego

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1949

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  • Website URL
    randy@americanarbortreeservice.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Oceanside, California
  • Interests:
    1936 Plymouth P2 Tudor Touring Sedan , 1936 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe, 1977 & 73 Fiat 124 Spiders, 1960 Ford F100, 1978 Triumph 750 Bonneville, 1968 & 72 Honda Trail 90s, Starflight Ultra Light, 72 Simplicity 4041 Power Max Tractor 1938 El Monte walk behind garden tractor, 1956 17' Mahogany cuddy cabin cruiser (restored) with 1958 Mercury 48 HP (restored) Outboard

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  • Biography
    I have been in and around automobiles all my life. Starting with my brothers Model A Ford in 1957, progressing through various cars through my youth (Oh but to have some of the cars back!) I had a 36 Pontiac Business Coupe that only had 11K miles on it and a 50 Mercury coupe, a 49 Packard 2Dr. Fastback, 55 Ford Crown Vic., Plymouth Furry, 55 Chevy, 4 (bought 3 for less than a hundred dollars!)57 Chevy coupes, 70 Pontiac Bonneville, 1960 MGA (Migrated to California in that car). I purchased a 77 FIat Spider new (when I was working for a dealership here in San Diego) Recently, I just sold a 1972 Chevrolet Caprice Coupe with 25K original miles. IT was a pristine car that showed like NEW! It now resides in Qutar purchased by an emir three years ago. I am now involved with FIAT 124 Spiders. My daily driver is a 78 and I am restoring a 73 with a race motor. I restored 2 Triumph Bonneville Motorcycles. I kept the 78 (better road bike) and ride it through the San Diego back country. I am undertaking rebuilding a Starflight Ultralight that I inherited from my brother. In general, I love all around mechanics and working on anything.
  1. IT has been very hot here also. IT hit 115 degrees Fahrenheit in Phoenix, the next state over and hit 110 degrees in Anza Borrego (our desert not 70 miles from the coast). A friend has an apple orchard up in Julian, Ca., which is only 40 miles from here and it has been hoovering around 93 to 95 degrees for the last week. He is working in his orchard and starts at 5:30 AM and quits when he cannot stand it any longer (around 11:30 AM). He is drinking around a gallon of liquids every two hours. Me I am staying by the beach. Believe it or not, it has been staying very comfortable (in the high 70's, low 80's) all week. If we get a Santa Ana (a westward wind blowing off of the desert) that will change VERY QUICKLY. Right now, we have been given a reprieve and are keeping our fingers crossed. Stay cool and we will hear from you in the near future. Right now, I think I will go make another pitcher of Ice tea.......................or something stronger. :-) Randy
  2. Roger, When are you getting back from France?
  3. VOILA ! ! I found that new colors seldom are generated. A lot of manufacturers "re cycle" older colors with just a minor change. Let us hope that the colors that you get there will answer your needs. Are these urethane paints or just enamels? June in France must be very nice. What part of France are you staying in? Enjoy your vacation. Randy
  4. Roger, When you move .002 to the next dot, how do you measure that . Is your wheel graduated in thousands? How many dots are in a row? That must be a time consuming chore. Any way, We will be awaiting the final results. Randy
  5. Roger, Seeing the parts "materialize" before our very eyes is always a source of enjoyment. Probably not for you as it is a lot of labor, but when you are done, it is another milestone finished. The sill plates, with their compound bends and curves exemplifies the amount of work that goes into just one part. AND multiply that by the whole car ! I am for the Canon camera. Without flash, you get ALL the detail of the car or part without the "burnout" of the flash. These new digital cameras are able to take very detailed pictures with a lot less light. I delete my flash in a lot of pictures for that very reason. And the pictures come out (for the most part) excellent to satisfactory. As you use your new camera, you will find it much more versatile. As technology advances, our photography improves with leaps and bounds. I do not envy you for the labor in getting the dots in the sill plates. Getting all those impressions pressed into them takes me back to the plate on the dash that took a lot of time to get all the detail in that part. In "dimpling" the sill plates, will you use a jig for alignment? I guess that we will see what and how you do that job. Excellent work ! Randy
  6. Roger, Looking at the window molding, it looks perfect. The compound curves look like they would have been a real challenge. But it came out excellent ! I have a Paschal and a top of the line Badger air brush set. It took me some time before I was proficient in using the air brush but once I got the hang of it and practiced, the results were fantastic. It allows you to apply a much finer finish and, unlike a rattle can, you have control as to how much paint comes out and you can control the pattern. Either a fine line or a wide swath. If you have not used an air brush before, it is a departure from a rattle can. With practice it produces great results. On a higher end, model, such as the Continental, I am sure that there is a procedure that you do that gets you the results that are satisfactory for you. Products have changed a lot in the last 10 years. They have developed paint technology and now have some amazing products. Whether you are painting a 1:1 car or a 1:12 car, it is all about technique. Roger, I am sure that you have your own system for the final finish. A lot of the painters that I know out here in So Cal. are stingy with their techniques and systems. They are too busy to try and teach or share what they do. Maybe they feel that you might become their competition? I have one good body shop that I can lean on for expert advice. The owner just built the most beautiful coupe and the paint, fit and finish is flawless. He tells me it is not rocket science, just a lot of practice and diligence. AND a deft eye for detail. Like you, they are meticulous with the small details. He will help me with any issue that arises. I am sure that after you paint your Continental, color sand and polish the finish, it will look amazing. Your advantage as an engineer is that you are able to dissect and analyze the issue at hand and are able to arrive at the answer that is fitting for the problem. We are watching the Continental take shape and it is a wonder to watch it develop. Great work, Roger. Can't wait for the next post. Randy
  7. Roger, Finally my question is answered regarding how you made the front and rear "glass" for the model. I have never had to make a windshield and was wondering how you accomplished that step. I thought that there was heat involved. And they look amazing, Roger. Again, I reiterate, you must think each step through many times in your mind before you sit down to accomplish the task. No different than Charles Duryea, Henry Ford, The Dodge brothers, etc., etc. If we had an X Ray of your cranium, we may see a well oiled Swiss machine with intricate gears, pinions, cogs, bearings, shafts, cams all running so smoothly. Again, few are blessed with the tools to be such an artist. All of us out here really enjoy seeing not only your progress but how you arrived at the solutions to the questions and problems of making such small, intricate parts. That is what makes following this thread so enjoyable. Each time I come here, there is a new item to savor. And to echo the others, Fantastic work. Randy
  8. Roger, Since you do not drive your cars that often, what do you do in Switzerland to keep them in storage without too much problems with gaskets drying out, fuel changing composition, transmissions leaking, etc., etc. Good thing that you do not have to deal with California fuel, which is a methanol blend, causing us so many issues with fuel pumps and carburetors. Now we have to rebuild our fuel pumps and carbs with the newer neoprene composition parts to stand up to the "gasahol". This mixture not only attacks the soft parts but can also "eat" away at the carb hard parts. Does the gas in Europe have any emission standards similar to the USA? Hopefully, not. Randy
  9. Is that an older hydramatic? As a young lad, I worked in a transmission shop, as a R & R tech. (remove and replace). My first Dyna Flo was almost my last. I usually did not take the time to get a transmission jack as they were not that heavy and it was quicker to retrieve them this way. I was used to going under a Plymouth or a Chevy or Ford and dropping the transmission on my chest and rolling out from under the car with it. (at 19 years of age, you are invincible and much stronger than when you are older). .Well, I had not been told that the Dyna Flo was composed of a CAST IRON case and a hell of a lot heavier. I slipped the transmission off of the bell housing and WHUMP ! on to my chest immediately expelling all of the air in my lungs. I could not call out to anyone for help. All I could do was flail my legs and finally one of my fellow workers saw me, grabbed my legs and pulled me out from under that Buick with the tranny still sitting on my chest. I was blue in the face by the time that they lifted the trans off of me. An important life lesson I learned that day. Anyway, I just thought that I would share that story with you for a good chuckle. Hope that your vacation was nice and relaxing. We await to see some more magic, Roger. Randy
  10. Roger must be busy. I am awaiting the transformation of the wood parts into the bench seats for the Continental. I am wondering how he is going to get the little "springs" to fit in the frames. :-) Of course, there will not be any such items. It will be interesting to see how he attaches the leather and if there is an under-lament before the leather is attached. Roger, are you going to sew into the leather the patterns of the seats like the 1:1 Continental? Or how are you going to simulate the stitching? We are awaiting your magic. Randy
  11. Roger, Silicons hit on something that I was pondering after seeing several Continentals show up at our car club meeting here in Rancho Santa Fe, CA. One was a light blue with white interior, another was black with a black interior (both original and very well preserved). The third was a copper metallic with a copper/white interior. VERY STRIKING. IT was completely restored and was perfect. I do not know if it (the copper) was an original color selection for the mid 50's offered to the buyer. The owner of the car had stepped away and I did not get a chance to ask him. I had a 1965 Lincoln Continental 2 dr. Sedan back in the 70's that was a trade in at the local Lincoln/Mercury dealership. It had 38,000 miles on it and I paid $800.00 for the car. It was in perfect condition with the paint starting to fade. But after I buffed it out, it looked great. It was a copper/bronze metallic color with the same color scheme for the interior. No contrast so I got tired of it and sold it. Used cars were very inexpensive back then. If I had just hung onto a few of the cars that I owned...................................................:-( With a 1:12 scale, the color is a tough choice. I keep harking back to the time that I was in Jr. High. Our local doctor had purchased the Continental for his "Sunday" car for the family outings. It was a light, sky blue with a white interior. Extremely striking. Even though it was 10 years old, it still had more class going down the road that any newer car. It was timeless in design and sophistication. The light sky blue stuck in my memory to this day. Roger, I do not know if it is a tough decision for you. One that you have been pondering for quite some time, after spending 7-8 years on the car, paint it the color that YOU like. What ever color you choose, I am sure that you will get it right. It is nice of you to ask our opinions for feed back. I had one heck of a time picking the color for my Spider till I saw a car zzooooming by me on the freeway. I sped up and saw the Toyota badge on the trunk. Right then and there, I drove to the dealership and pinned down the color. Nautical Metallic Blue. Not an original FIAT color but striking. Now I have the car painted and with a bone colored leather interior, it is very nice. This car is a class act 1:1 or 1:12th scale. It must be very hard for you to select the color and the feedback may help. If I had to opt for a color, I would go with the grey but not so dark. Maybe a little lighter shade of Metallic Grey. And coupled with the burgundy leather interior. STRIKING ! I hope that you are able to find the metalic paint with a smaller metal flake. Do you have Testors or Tamaya available? I am sure that they are available in the hobby stores. With the hobby paint, I am sure that they have the metallic with the smaller flake in the paint for a more scale application. And a local auto paint store can take the paint and put it in an aerosol "shaker" can for you. That way, you have the comfort level of using a spray can. Just a thought. It is exciting to know that you are at this stage. The completion is just around the corner.........................................WOW. Randy
  12. Roger, I would love to see you installing the interior components once the car is painted. Please post pictures of the step by step of the re installation of the interior parts so we can get an idea as to how you re assemble the car. Man o man, that will be one intricate process with all the little screws holding the parts together. You MUST have a "shrinking" machine where you step in and step out 1:12 scale to do that job. :-) I realize that the windows and doors are not installed but still.............what a job to put all the parts in the car with the roof on. AND not to scratch the exterior finish while doing so. This we have got to see............. Randy
  13. Roger, WOW ! I hope that you can get all the interior parts in without too much difficulty. It sure is easier when you have full access. But you know what you are doing. It baffles the mind to know that this car is only 1:12. From the pictures, if the car was sitting on jack stands and posed in a garage with proper perspective, now way would anyone be the wiser to the actual size of the car due to the intricate detail. Simply amazing. How did the headliner come out. The last pic of the headliner looked pretty good. Is that the final? Guess so as the roof is now attached to the body. My nightmare would be getting over spray on the inside of the headliner. :-( I am quite sure that you are very careful with the painting. You say that you are using "rattle can" paint? No air brush? (just kidding). At our local automotive paint store, they can put your special color mix in an aerosol can. That was not available too long ago. Now for small jobs, I can get the paint in an aerosol can as it is a pain to clean up my spray gun. I have to take it all apart and clean it thoroughly or the next time I use it...................... :-( Nothing like hard encrusted paint to clog a small orifice and stop the function of an expensive gun. Roger, I am going to attempt to do the body and paint on my 36 Plymouth fenders. The body shops here are sooooo damn expensive. I decided to bite the bullet and attempt to do my fenders. The body of the car is fine. I just need to do the fenders and the bullet headlight shells. There is no rust on them but I have to strip off two bad paint jobs. The last guy didn't do that and the finish is all crazed and unsightly. Plus he didn't put the welting between the fender and the body. The headlight "bullet" shells have scratches from previous owners or mechanics that were not deft in proper opening and closing of the hoods on both sides and have scratched and dented (one shell) the shells. I think that I can do them in place with just removing the lense one the one that I have to knock out the dent and then finish sand and prep them for paint. They would be a pain to remove from the fender mounts. Those and the fenders. Probably will take me as much time to do as you have invested in the Continental. :-) Kidding. I just have a few bumps to knock out and the alignment is fine. I have a brand new high end spray gun that I bought just for this. Have you ever done any body and paint on your cars? Wish me luck Randy
  14. Roger, The hood ornament looks very good. Only your eyes will see a flaw. Once you get the part filed and final sanding and plated, the emblem will look like a million on the hood. The headliner really looks authentic Like you say, will anybody really be looking up at the headliner once the roof is attached? I cannot wait to see the car with the exterior painted and peering into the engine bay, looking at all the detailing. Very heady stuff Roger. Excellent ! !
  15. Roger, The problem(s) with the 3M aerosol product is that you have to have the fabric positioned EXACTLY before you press it into the headliner. Once it touches the glue, it is nigh on impossible to move it and the glue is almost instant. plus you have overspray that has to be cleaned up. I may have a solution to your adhesive. The product is called Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. It is all purpose and when applied in a thin coat it shouldn't come through the satin or fabric. It is used by crafts people gluing fabric and most everything. Since the California Air Resources Board has banned most products that have lacquers or spirits the industries have had to come up with water based products. Aleene's is a water based product and clean up is easy. Also it is not aerosol. It comes in a bottle or a tube and you can experiment with the fabric to see how it will work. If you local craft shops there do not have it, let me know. I will pick up a bottle and ship it to you. I use this product for a lot of my needs. It is used here extensively in the crafts hobbies. It is made by Duncan Enterprises here in Fresno California. I was first turned onto this product in my scale model railroad hobby. The guys used it to attach the track to the road bed without using nails (on N scale). The good thing about the glue is that if you want to remove the item or cloth, it will release without tearing up what you are gluing it to. It is water based and it should not damage your poly roof liner. With this glue, it dries clear and you have the ability to move or "position" the fabric before the glue dries. Doing a small area at a time will allow you to get good results. Email me and let me know. I will swing by the crafts store tomorrow (The 11th) and pick up a bottle or tube. Hopefully, this will solve your problem. Randy