Randiego

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About Randiego

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    randy@americanarbortreeservice.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Oceanside, California
  • Interests:
    1936 Plymouth P2 Tudor Touring Sedan , 1936 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe, 1977 & 73 Fiat 124 Spiders, 1960 Ford F100, 1978 Triumph 750 Bonneville, 1968 & 72 Honda Trail 90s, Starflight Ultra Light, 72 Simplicity 4041 Power Max Tractor 1938 El Monte walk behind garden tractor, 1956 17' Mahogany cuddy cabin cruiser (restored) with 1958 Mercury 48 HP (restored) Outboard

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  • Biography
    I have been in and around automobiles all my life. Starting with my brothers Model A Ford in 1957, progressing through various cars through my youth (Oh but to have some of the cars back!) I had a 36 Pontiac Business Coupe that only had 11K miles on it and a 50 Mercury coupe, a 49 Packard 2Dr. Fastback, 55 Ford Crown Vic., Plymouth Furry, 55 Chevy, 4 (bought 3 for less than a hundred dollars!)57 Chevy coupes, 70 Pontiac Bonneville, 1960 MGA (Migrated to California in that car). I purchased a 77 FIat Spider new (when I was working for a dealership here in San Diego) Recently, I just sold a 1972 Chevrolet Caprice Coupe with 25K original miles. IT was a pristine car that showed like NEW! It now resides in Qutar purchased by an emir three years ago. I am now involved with FIAT 124 Spiders. My daily driver is a 78 and I am restoring a 73 with a race motor. I restored 2 Triumph Bonneville Motorcycles. I kept the 78 (better road bike) and ride it through the San Diego back country. I am undertaking rebuilding a Starflight Ultralight that I inherited from my brother. In general, I love all around mechanics and working on anything.
  1. Roger, Now this is where it gets down to the finite. Fit and finish is everything in body and paint. I just had a car done (6 months ago) and it is a 1:1. Much easier than a 1:12. They did a very good job and my Spider is going back together soon. I handed them a "shell" completely stripped of all the interior and exterior trim, windshield frame, etc., etc. The manager of the body shop had his guys on my car for a long time getting every detail finessed. The end results were first class. We walked around the car and could not find one flaw, run, or door, trunk or hood that was not aligned perfectly. All in all, I was quite pleased. Being in the small scale as 1:12, it must be exact too. We can not wait to see the end results of the body work/paint job. Randy
  2. wiring up the instrument cluster 1936 Plymouth

    Well, to all that had been following my dilemma with my P 2, I bit the dust and ordered a complete wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring and Cable. It arrived yesterday, the 4th of October and I will have it installed in my Touring Sedan by next week. I had the shop manual for the wiring, however, the original wire is 80 years old. The insulation on the wiring is crumbling and it is not a prudent move to keep the original wire. Plus, the colors are so faded that it is nigh on impossible to tell red from ? The new Rhode Island wire harness is so well done. The new wire has the modern vinyl composition wire on the inside and the woven material on the outside. They make the harnesses to factory spec and the wires will last an eternity without compromise. Longer that I will last. The Plymouth is pretty straight forward, however, the engineer that came up with the brainy idea of the shove in headlamp lens needed to be hung from his toes. I have dropped two of them so far. I am down to my last spare and believe me. If a headlight bulb burns out, it may just stay out. What a hassle to get that lens to go in right. Very tedious if you do not do them every day. I will be cleaning the engine and painting it. Now that I have the water pump replaced, I want to make the engine compartment look nice. The firewall is in very good shape and there is no rust on the surrounding sheet metal. I just want to paint the block, starter, generator, and the air filter. Now that you can get replacement stickers and decals for the engine components and compartment, why not spruce up the engine bay? My thanks to all that responded to my request for help. I just thought that I could do with the 80 year old wiring as it "looked: pretty good from the outside. Randy
  3. Roger, We are all gratified to see that the window motor drive issue is sorted out and that there was success with your efforts. It is always good to read and see your solution for the problem at hand. That was a big problem solved. Now the seats can be fitted and finished to complete the rear seating area. Amazement always follows every time that we log onto your site. Now with cool weather setting in, we can return to seeing progress being made with the Continental. I am sending you at article in this months Hemmings Classic Cars. They are featuring a 1956 Continental. Many stories have been written about the Continental but this man owns one that is very nice. It has the original interior and the engine bay is refurbished. It is very informative to see what a 1:1 Continental engine and accessories looks like. I will scan the article and send it to you. Looking forward to the next post. Randy
  4. '35, '36 Hubcap Diameter?

    Wow, The "country traveler" really filled in the info on the hubcaps. My thinking on your locking hubcap. Was there an application for side mount spares? If so, then the hubcap was a further deterrent for theft. Would the "country traveler" have a good source for restoration of my 36 P2 hubcaps? I am in San Diego and would like to find a plating shop that can do the old fashioned plating with out me going to Tijuana. The hubcaps (I believe) are skinned in a brass cover that can be carefully removed, creases and dents attended to, polished and then plated. The proper way is for copper to be laid on think then polished, nickle applied (again thick) then polished and then chromed. My old chrome shop use to do this method but has since sold out to a new owner who doesn't want to continue with this type of work. SO much for the old world craftsmanship that we once knew. EPA and CARB (California Air Resources Board) have really ruined the plating shops along with the painters here. You cannot even get a lot of products that we had available to us here in la la land. You have to go to Phoenix or Vegas to get products that we once had on the shelf here. So goes the world. Randiego
  5. wiring up the instrument cluster 1936 Plymouth

    Keiser 31, I would have replaced the harness except for one thing. It is in excellent shape and has not been disturbed previously. I am familiar with individuals who have not respected the "old wiring" and in hast to get their cars running, have used compromised wiring harnesses, ending up with a fire and a melted mass of electrical components and a "fused" bunch of wires. Believe me, I would not want to be in the latter category. My harness is intact with the braiding all in place. Granted, if you move the harness around, you will break the insulation on the wires as I am sure that the insulation is very brittle. After all, it is 81 years old. The car ran beautifully with all gauges, lights and instruments all working. The wires on the back side of the panel are still pliant and believe me, I am extremely careful not to bend or move them any more than necessary. I got my Plymouth shop book and there is a very good schematic of all the wiring and the destination points of where the wires go. My problem is that the "color coding" on the wire is rather faded and it is hard to tell the color. What is simple about the P1 is that most of the power is derived from the hot side of the Ammeter. I just have to find out which wire is going to the fuel gauge and the ammeter. The oil and temp gauge are mechanical and do not have electrical connections. SO.......it shouldn't be that complicated to figure out what goes where. I have made it easy by removing the front seat, the pedals from the clutch and brake and the glove box and ash trays. I have clear access so I will at least get the car running tonight. I will worry about any thing that I cannot figure out tomorrow. Randy
  6. Well Hooray ! Another problem solved. And it was a big one. I am glad that you were able to find a working solution that will not hamper or compromise the operation of the window. The first time that an admirer is looking at the model and you depress the switch and the window rolls up or down, the expression on their face(s) will be....... amazement. Much like the first time that we saw your site and the construction steps of the model. The Continental has come a long way since you were casting the tires. I am still amazed as to how you got the lettering in the molds, finishing up with perfect little 1:12 tires. The detail is phenomenal. And the work on the hubcaps........Truly a work of art. it boggles the mind to see the detail that is added at each step. It is always cool to see you overcome the issues and filling us in on how you accomplished the task. Randy
  7. Bravo Roger, Always the engineer with the ability to solve the problem. We will await the pictures to see where the motor will mount and how the "shaft(s)" will function. Randy
  8. Roger, I have seen very small universal joints that will suffice without losing the torque of the drive motor. The key is to find the right combination of universal and thrust bearing(s) at the window mechanism. And that is where you will succeed as you have a better "handle" on the issue. We can only speculate what you are up against. It is another to be there in person with the problem at hand, mulling over how you are going to attack the problem. With the micro industries all over the world now, so many options are available compared to 15 years ago. I am sure that the needed parts are out there or..........you will build them yourself ! We will await the end of September to see what you have come up with. Randy
  9. wiring up the instrument cluster 1936 Plymouth

    In the pictures here of the speedo, it shows the "white grease" in the gears. After talking to the speedometer shop here in San Diego, I removed the white grease and replaced it with the moly grease. As he stated, white grease with harden over time. Randy
  10. HELP ! Some months back, I took my instrument cluster out of my 36 Touring Sedan. All the gauges, illumination lights and odometer worked but the speedometer was in op. I made the decision to see if I could restore the instrument cluster along with the speedo. I got another instrument cluster from a Plymouth Owners Club member that had been sitting on his shelf in the garage for some time. When I took it apart, all kinds of bugs (dead) and their carcasses and residue had to be cleaned out of the case. I found that the gaskets had shrunk but the facia was in good order. I carefully cleaned up the face plate, chrome trim bezel, made new gaskets and carefully cleaned the gauges. I disassembled the speedometer and found that the needle indicator would not move due to congealed grease. I cleaned all of the old grease out of the head and lubed it up. The local speedometer shop told me NOT to use white grease as it will harden over time. I used the moly grease that he recommended. Attaching a drill motor with a piece of speedo cable to the speedometer, I 'spun:" the instrument and it worked flawlessly. I polished the outer chrome bezel, cleaned the glass lens and re assembled the cluster. I have attached pics below to show the process. I admire the engineers of the day as this speedometer was built for Chrysler Corp by a supplier that really engineered the instrument with quality. Much as everything else Chrysler Corp. designed. If you ever had a fear of doing your own clean up and repairs of a speedometer, this unit is "straight forward" No secret pins or gears that will fall out. But taking out the instrument panel is necessary. One caution; If you have original wiring, be sure not to disturb the wires too much. The insulation is 80 years old and brittle. So far, I have not had any issues with the wires as they are somewhat pliant. I cleaned up the temperature gauge and carefully moved it out of the way as that is the only gauge that has to be re used, unless you are replacing that unit. The rest of the gauges I swapped out from my original instrument cluster as they worked fine. I made new gaskets from manila file material and cork. I got new sheet cork from Bangor Cork and cut the new cork gasket from that. I cleaned the light blue acetate "diffusers" and re attached them to the outer housing. The instrument lights shine through them giving a nice "glow" to the instruments. This was a lot of trouble to go to to get my speedometer working again but being anal about wanting my Touring Sedan in top operation, it was necessary. I also want to point out, it is to your advantage to remove the glove box, cigarette ashtrays and any other items that will impede your access to the instrument cluster. I also removed the front seat and laid a piece of plywood over the seat mounts, laying a moving pad on that. I removed the clutch, brake pedal, and accelerator pedal. If I were a younger man and my body was more limber, I could move around much easier but time has not been too kind to me in doing this kind of work. I am better at vertical tasks. :-) In this job, most of your work will be done on your back with your head resting against the firewall. When I first got the Plymouth, I took the heater out and restored the unit. As I was getting the cooling system in order, I wanted a heater that would give me heat for our cool days here in San Diego. That gave me an idea of what I was up against in the limited area you have to work with in the narrow cabin. Unlike a 40's, 50's or 60's cars, there is a lot less room under the dash. The windshield wiper hose is another issue. Moving it up and out of the way, it broke in two pieces. The hose is hard and needs to be replaced. That is my next job; getting the windshield wipers operational again. Now for the issue at hand. I had labeled all the wires and where they hooked back up to the instrument cluster. Most of the power is supplied from the back of the Ammeter. But what hooks up where is now lost to me due to the sheet that I drew showing what wire hooked up where. I have been looking for that dratted sheet for over a week. It must have been tossed by the cleaning lady who did a nice job in my office. TOO NICE. It was accidentally tossed in the clean up. I went to the Plymouth manual but it doesn't show the color coding of the wires. I guess that you have to trace out the wire to see what it is attached to to know where it goes on the back of the panel. Before I hook up the wrong wire and "fry" this 80 year old harness, I was hoping that one of you would be able to illuminate this issue with a better publication or ? . Some are easy. The instrument lighting is all the same color and the bulbs/sockets are all replaced back in their respective locations to illuminate the cluster. Before I have to take the car to my friend who has an auto electric shop, I would like to try to solve this issue on my own. At worse case, he is a whiz and can discern how to re attach all the wires in their correct location. Also, I recently found a "Firestone" radio, which is period for this car. It is made by Stewart Warner. I took it to the Antique Radio Shop here in San Diego and the guy, Jeff, is a whiz with old radios. He replaced all the old capacitors, and old parts with newer ones. I found a guy on the east coast who had an original antenna mast (it was EXPENSIVE) new in the box. The paper work showed that it was made in 1936. The radio/speaker box mounts on the firewall and the dial with the two knobs and cables mount on the steering column. With the replacement instrument cluster, there was the correct connection and resistor on the unit. Seems that the car that this came out of had a radio in it. What a find! Solved two problems. I realize that this is a long post but I thought that the members who have the 36 models would be interested in seeing what can be accomplished if you take your time and are careful. It is not rocket science (like the new cars of today) and is enjoyable solving problems that are comparatively easy next to a new car. If you have ever done the instrument panel, hopefully, you can shed some light on the issue I am facing here. Or if you have a 36, possibly you could take a picture of the back of your instrument panel showing the wires and where they go. That would be monumental in solving my dilemma. Any help will be deeply appreciated. Respectfully, Randy
  11. Just what you need. Another issue to work out. We will see what you come up with to solve this problem. Randy
  12. Roger, Looks like you had to dismantle the car to work on the interior. Will the seats be sprung authenticating the real seats? there are voids in the middle of the seats. With your talent for making springs, I am guessing that the centers of the seat bottoms and seat backs will be "wired" for spring action giving the feel of the real seats. I am just guessing as we will have to wait and see what you do here with the forms. We can only contemplate what you are going to do. Looking forward to the next post showing us what is next. Randy
  13. Roger, If you cannot find anyone in your area, there are plenty of guys that can make the decals. If you have the 1:1 decals, they can scale them down to 1:12 and print them off on decal material. Here in San Diego, I know of an individual who can assist you if needed. Randy
  14. Beautiful work Roger. Fantastic. The engine shows so much detail. Do you make the decals too? I know that there is a program (in photo shop?) that is for the modelers to make them but I never have. What are you using for the ignition wires? Will they have "boots" or metal clips? Randy
  15. Bonjour Roger, Glad you made it home o k. Hotter n' HELL here. What makes it bad is the humidity. We get more than illegal immigrants here in San Diego. A tropical storm is in the Gulf of Tehuantepec off the coast of Acapulco Mexico. It is pushing North and all the humidity has settled in on us making it so very miserable. Don't want to work, don't want to move around as it is extremely uncomfortable. We are used to dry desert air and this is the pits. Enough about me. I hope that your stay in France was good and that you got to spend time visiting and enjoying the food and wine. How does the small parts in the basket get coated evenly. Do they agitate it to ensure that all sides of the parts get exposed to the electrolyte bath or ? Amazing that this process works for you as those are extremely small parts, especially the letters. Randy