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About Randiego

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1949

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oceanside, California
  • Interests:
    1936 Plymouth P2 Tudor Touring Sedan , 1936 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe, 1977 & 73 Fiat 124 Spiders, 1960 Ford F100, 1978 Triumph 750 Bonneville, 1968 & 72 Honda Trail 90s, Starflight Ultra Light, 72 Simplicity 4041 Power Max Tractor 1938 El Monte walk behind garden tractor, 1956 17' Mahogany cuddy cabin cruiser (restored) with 1958 Mercury 48 HP (restored) Outboard


  • Biography
    I have been in and around automobiles all my life. Starting with my brothers Model A Ford in 1957, progressing through various cars through my youth (Oh but to have some of the cars back!) I had a 36 Pontiac Business Coupe that only had 11K miles on it and a 50 Mercury coupe, a 49 Packard 2Dr. Fastback, 55 Ford Crown Vic., Plymouth Furry, 55 Chevy, 4 (bought 3 for less than a hundred dollars!)57 Chevy coupes, 70 Pontiac Bonneville, 1960 MGA (Migrated to California in that car). I purchased a 77 FIat Spider new (when I was working for a dealership here in San Diego) Recently, I just sold a 1972 Chevrolet Caprice Coupe with 25K original miles. IT was a pristine car that showed like NEW! It now resides in Qutar purchased by an emir three years ago. I am now involved with FIAT 124 Spiders. My daily driver is a 78 and I am restoring a 73 with a race motor. I restored 2 Triumph Bonneville Motorcycles. I kept the 78 (better road bike) and ride it through the San Diego back country. I am undertaking rebuilding a Starflight Ultralight that I inherited from my brother. In general, I love all around mechanics and working on anything.
  1. Roger, There is a thread (on the AACA Forum) from Gary W, member 623; " Restoration of a 37 Buick Model 48 has started" is inspiration to us out here doing a 1:1 car. I interrupted the progress on my Fiat 124 Spider when I made the decision to acquire the 36 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe. What this gentleman has done in one year on his restoration is inspiration to all of us. He is a younger man with two young sons helping him in his garage, which is as clean a garage as I have seen! If you start reading that thread, you will not quit ! He is doing a superb job with only the painting, plating and a few other services done by others. The rest he is doing himself. As you have restored many cars in the past, you will appreciate what he has accomplished and the quality of his work. Randy
  2. Gary, I had a glitch with my password and could not get back on to AACA Forum till now. I talked to my plating company regarding painting over fresh (or any) chrome. He told me that to get paint to stick to the chrome, use a 3 M green pad and scuff the chrome to give it "tooth" for the paint to adhere properly. Painting over un scuffed chrome is "iffy" as to how long and how you care for the item. Even "detail mister" can "lift" the paint over time, but it may be many years before a problem arises. I have a 73 Fiat Spider that I am restoring (complete) and the windshield frame has a "satin" finish on the top surface (where the folding top meets the frame). When I got it back from the plater, I asked him about the shiny surface. Originally (from the factory), one of the steps was to do a light sand blast on the top surface to give it the satin finish. My plater told me that using the green 3M pad will accomplish the same results. Drag it lightly in ONE DIRECTION ONLY. I did so and now the inside of the windshield frame is "satin". Oh, I have to finish the Fiat before I can resume work on the 36 Pontiac. :-( I was doing the Fiat when the opportunity to get the Pontiac arose and so now I have two to restore. On the 36 Pontiac Coupe, I have two bumpers that require two black paint lines the full length of the bumpers. The plater told me to take the green 3 M pad, cut it into strips and use a wood dowel cut to the width of the "slot" and use that to apply pressure to the 3M pad strips to get the inside of the grove properly scuffed to accept the paint. It may be too late for you as I am sure that most of your chrome is already painted but for future work, the 3M green is the solution. I am sure that during the holiday, work will slow down on the Buick, but we are patient. I so much enjoy reading your thread and following the progress. I was especially impressed with your work on the headliner ! ! ! That was as good as a professional upholstery shop, and you are doing this for the first time? As all of your work, you are going into uncharted waters on many of the items that you restored. Gary, this goes to show that using common sense, research, trial and error, (AND LOST OF TALENT) most items are not out of reach for the restorer. I will apply many steps in your restoration to my Pontiac and the Plymouth (when I pull the trigger to do that one too) restorations. Your detail of the fender welting installation was superb. Welting 101. A complete course! We are waiting to see you do your seats. Will you re do the coil burlap covers? I am sure that the mice urine really made a mess of most of the materials but still, there may be some that were able to be saved. I really like your diligence and perseverance. Dressed to the nines before you attended a party and having your sons help you hanging the fenders just goes to show us that time is not wasted in your household. If you have a waking moment, your mind is thinking of the Buick. This is why, one year later, the car is almost finished. WOW ! We eagerly await your next post. Randy
  3. Gary, I am new to your thread. My brother turned me onto your remarkable project. What is absolutely mind boggling is that you have done all this in a year ! I started my 36 Pontiac Master Six Business Coupe over a year and a half ago, only to be interrupted with issues that seem to pop up all the time, further delaying my progress. You are giving me incentive to get that car back on the "front burner". I also have a 36 Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan. It is mechanically in excellent condition and I drive it almost daily. It is a survivor with only a very poor paint job (the fenders looked like yours, with the crazing showing up). I got new running boards made for it but if I put them on, they will stick out like a sore toe in a tight shoe. Until I pull the trigger on a frame off restoration, I will drive it as it is. I did put in a new Rhode Island Wiring and Cable complete wiring harness (the wiring was crumbling and the lights were dim), rebuilding my light switch, dimmer switch, restored my heater (like your work on yours), and went through the cooling system, clutch and brakes. Other than that, it is all stock and original. The engine has never been apart. No need. It runs like a top. 71,000 original miles and no knocks or lack of power. I did source and install an original MoPar oil filter housing, replacing the throw away variety. All of us out here marvel at your tenacity and thoroughness. You are leaving no stone un turned. My brother and I are guessing that you are self employed. This gives you the advantage to make runs and errands in the middle of the day when necessary. Otherwise, you are at the mercies of waiting till the weekend to drag to the hardware, auto parts store for the little things. And you know that that is a time eating portion of any restoration. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, I started on your blog........and could NOT STOP reading. Following every step of the way was addicting. I too am a detailed individual and when I do something, it has to be correct or I will not do it. I do have a question. I may have missed you addressing that step; When you are painting the black stripes in your freshly chromed pieces, I did not see you "etching" the chrome before you painted the black into the grooves. Were you advised to paint the accent black directly onto the chrome without "prepping" the surface before you applied the paint? If you did not prep the chrome, what paint did you use that will adhere to the chrome without the fear of it coming off in the future? I doubt that you car will ever be subjected to being driven in inclement weather or a wash job using a hose and bucket of soap vs. misting with detailer and using the miracle fiber cloths. But still, that is a question that I have. I will be painting my chrome pieces and if there is a specific paint for that job, I would like to know what it is. Again, fantastic work. We all await the next post sitting on the edge of our seats! Randy P.S. You can see the restoration of my heater and my instrument panel (of the Plymouth) at my site.
  4. Roger, It is amazing how crisp and clean the lines on the upholstery are. Not a tiny imperfection anywhere! From the pictures, the seats and the insert look like the real thing. Masterful We are celebrating Thanksgiving this week and all of us have eaten too much. Thank goodness Monday is tomorrow and we can get back to work to burn off all those calories. Randy
  5. Roger, Dang ! Those seats look so real. The fit and finish is much better than on my 1:8 scale Pocher. The Swiss craftsman! We have a member of the Pocher community that is in Switzerland and his Pocher R.R. is immaculate. But he is starting with a kit and, like most of the Pocher builders, heavily modify the kit. Injection molding from thirty to fourty years ago leaves a heck of a lot to be desired. There are parts that are after market that are available. Fellow modelers develop better and more accurate parts. The improved parts, in that community, really make the models first rate. If you took the time to do them yourself, you would be years in the making of the model (just like you). No Continental builders club to go to for specialized parts. You have the satisfaction to know that when you are done, that car is all yours. As you said, it is really a shame that the viewer will not see 90% of the detail that you put into this beautiful model. BUT what is available to the eye..................................Astounding. Randy
  6. Wow Roger ! ! ! I am particularly impressed with the trim piece that has the sun visors. The fit and finish on all the parts are absolute perfection but the visors really capture the outstanding symmetry and fine detail of the scale. Viewing the parts on the headliner will be difficult (unless you are 1:12 scale) The viewer will need a dentist's oral mirror to see all the wonders that you have captured in the overhead. I really like the color. Outstanding Randy
  7. Roger, Intricate work. Are you using French glove leather? When researching the leather for the Pocher, I was directed to that particular leather as it was the thinnest available. And after getting it, there was a spot that I needed to have it thinner. It can be "sanded" on the back side for an even thinner application of the leather. Being in Switzerland, they have the finest leathers available, yes? Randy
  8. Roger, Now this is where it gets down to the finite. Fit and finish is everything in body and paint. I just had a car done (6 months ago) and it is a 1:1. Much easier than a 1:12. They did a very good job and my Spider is going back together soon. I handed them a "shell" completely stripped of all the interior and exterior trim, windshield frame, etc., etc. The manager of the body shop had his guys on my car for a long time getting every detail finessed. The end results were first class. We walked around the car and could not find one flaw, run, or door, trunk or hood that was not aligned perfectly. All in all, I was quite pleased. Being in the small scale as 1:12, it must be exact too. We can not wait to see the end results of the body work/paint job. Randy
  9. wiring up the instrument cluster 1936 Plymouth

    Well, to all that had been following my dilemma with my P 2, I bit the dust and ordered a complete wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring and Cable. It arrived yesterday, the 4th of October and I will have it installed in my Touring Sedan by next week. I had the shop manual for the wiring, however, the original wire is 80 years old. The insulation on the wiring is crumbling and it is not a prudent move to keep the original wire. Plus, the colors are so faded that it is nigh on impossible to tell red from ? The new Rhode Island wire harness is so well done. The new wire has the modern vinyl composition wire on the inside and the woven material on the outside. They make the harnesses to factory spec and the wires will last an eternity without compromise. Longer that I will last. The Plymouth is pretty straight forward, however, the engineer that came up with the brainy idea of the shove in headlamp lens needed to be hung from his toes. I have dropped two of them so far. I am down to my last spare and believe me. If a headlight bulb burns out, it may just stay out. What a hassle to get that lens to go in right. Very tedious if you do not do them every day. I will be cleaning the engine and painting it. Now that I have the water pump replaced, I want to make the engine compartment look nice. The firewall is in very good shape and there is no rust on the surrounding sheet metal. I just want to paint the block, starter, generator, and the air filter. Now that you can get replacement stickers and decals for the engine components and compartment, why not spruce up the engine bay? My thanks to all that responded to my request for help. I just thought that I could do with the 80 year old wiring as it "looked: pretty good from the outside. Randy
  10. Roger, We are all gratified to see that the window motor drive issue is sorted out and that there was success with your efforts. It is always good to read and see your solution for the problem at hand. That was a big problem solved. Now the seats can be fitted and finished to complete the rear seating area. Amazement always follows every time that we log onto your site. Now with cool weather setting in, we can return to seeing progress being made with the Continental. I am sending you at article in this months Hemmings Classic Cars. They are featuring a 1956 Continental. Many stories have been written about the Continental but this man owns one that is very nice. It has the original interior and the engine bay is refurbished. It is very informative to see what a 1:1 Continental engine and accessories looks like. I will scan the article and send it to you. Looking forward to the next post. Randy
  11. '35, '36 Hubcap Diameter?

    Wow, The "country traveler" really filled in the info on the hubcaps. My thinking on your locking hubcap. Was there an application for side mount spares? If so, then the hubcap was a further deterrent for theft. Would the "country traveler" have a good source for restoration of my 36 P2 hubcaps? I am in San Diego and would like to find a plating shop that can do the old fashioned plating with out me going to Tijuana. The hubcaps (I believe) are skinned in a brass cover that can be carefully removed, creases and dents attended to, polished and then plated. The proper way is for copper to be laid on think then polished, nickle applied (again thick) then polished and then chromed. My old chrome shop use to do this method but has since sold out to a new owner who doesn't want to continue with this type of work. SO much for the old world craftsmanship that we once knew. EPA and CARB (California Air Resources Board) have really ruined the plating shops along with the painters here. You cannot even get a lot of products that we had available to us here in la la land. You have to go to Phoenix or Vegas to get products that we once had on the shelf here. So goes the world. Randiego
  12. wiring up the instrument cluster 1936 Plymouth

    Keiser 31, I would have replaced the harness except for one thing. It is in excellent shape and has not been disturbed previously. I am familiar with individuals who have not respected the "old wiring" and in hast to get their cars running, have used compromised wiring harnesses, ending up with a fire and a melted mass of electrical components and a "fused" bunch of wires. Believe me, I would not want to be in the latter category. My harness is intact with the braiding all in place. Granted, if you move the harness around, you will break the insulation on the wires as I am sure that the insulation is very brittle. After all, it is 81 years old. The car ran beautifully with all gauges, lights and instruments all working. The wires on the back side of the panel are still pliant and believe me, I am extremely careful not to bend or move them any more than necessary. I got my Plymouth shop book and there is a very good schematic of all the wiring and the destination points of where the wires go. My problem is that the "color coding" on the wire is rather faded and it is hard to tell the color. What is simple about the P1 is that most of the power is derived from the hot side of the Ammeter. I just have to find out which wire is going to the fuel gauge and the ammeter. The oil and temp gauge are mechanical and do not have electrical connections. SO.......it shouldn't be that complicated to figure out what goes where. I have made it easy by removing the front seat, the pedals from the clutch and brake and the glove box and ash trays. I have clear access so I will at least get the car running tonight. I will worry about any thing that I cannot figure out tomorrow. Randy
  13. Well Hooray ! Another problem solved. And it was a big one. I am glad that you were able to find a working solution that will not hamper or compromise the operation of the window. The first time that an admirer is looking at the model and you depress the switch and the window rolls up or down, the expression on their face(s) will be....... amazement. Much like the first time that we saw your site and the construction steps of the model. The Continental has come a long way since you were casting the tires. I am still amazed as to how you got the lettering in the molds, finishing up with perfect little 1:12 tires. The detail is phenomenal. And the work on the hubcaps........Truly a work of art. it boggles the mind to see the detail that is added at each step. It is always cool to see you overcome the issues and filling us in on how you accomplished the task. Randy
  14. Bravo Roger, Always the engineer with the ability to solve the problem. We will await the pictures to see where the motor will mount and how the "shaft(s)" will function. Randy
  15. Roger, I have seen very small universal joints that will suffice without losing the torque of the drive motor. The key is to find the right combination of universal and thrust bearing(s) at the window mechanism. And that is where you will succeed as you have a better "handle" on the issue. We can only speculate what you are up against. It is another to be there in person with the problem at hand, mulling over how you are going to attack the problem. With the micro industries all over the world now, so many options are available compared to 15 years ago. I am sure that the needed parts are out there or..........you will build them yourself ! We will await the end of September to see what you have come up with. Randy