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About 1912Minerva

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  • Birthday 10/17/1972
  1. Yes, in my experience with the Hup 20, to try and drive with your hands on the wheel as shown in that beautiful poster is asking for trouble....lots of trouble!
  2. Hi Everyone, I thought some here might be interested in some pics of my Minerva engine when I had it apart recently (and one of engine in the car). Regards to all. Andrew.
  3. Hi All, I too was very sorry to learn of Edgar's passing. He was enthusiastic and very supportive when I obtained my Hupmobile and provided information and advice. I am attaching a couple of low res pics that Edgar sent me of the trip he did in his Model 20 from Gympie to Sydney and return (for non Australian's that is a considerable distance) - I suspect he sent them to me by way of encouragement as to the potential reliability and drive-ability of these vehicles ( I love all his luggage strapped to the fender / mudguard!). RIP Edgar and condolences to his friends and family. Regards to all, Andrew.
  4. That's great news Phil! I think if you blank off the bottom of the original manifold and then make up an adapter for the Holley NH that will give you the option of either carb without altering the manifold? I run a Holley but my car came with the manifold cut off. I had to make an adapter to fit the Holley as the bolt holes are slightly different. Cheers, Andrew.
  5. Hi Phil, My torpedo hasn't got a generator yet but I have a photo of the generator mounted on the other torpedo here in Australia. As you can see, the door would hit it. This car is a very early restoration (1950's). Looking closely at the photos, I think when rebuilding the body they didn't even put a door on the drivers side (can't see a hinge). This was the first car I ever drove (when about 10!) and also drove it 10 years ago. As most cars of that era are difficult to enter through the drivers side (due to brake and gear levers, spare tires etc.) I don't recall noticing that being unusual. This car also has what I believe to be an unusual feature for a torpedo in that the fuel (gas) cap protrudes through the body work so you don't have to lift the boot (trunk lid) to access. Here is a photo of another car which is not a torpedo but is similar in terms of scuttle and doors (but it doesn't have the rounded back - just an exposed fuel tank like the runabouts). I'm not sure what this body type is called. Again generator is mounted on drivers side running board - this car may not have a drivers side door either - I can't tell. The only period picture I have seen of a torpedo doesn't show any generator and I think the lighting shown may be electric? Another period photo - not a torpedo but it does have doors and again has the tower style carbide generator. Interestingly the style of front guards the car has allows the generator to be mounted well forward of the door but the horn tubing looks like it would prevent the door opening. Heres one without doors but showing a Prest-o-lite I would love to see some detailed pics of your torpedo - there don't seem to be too many around. Regards, Andrew.
  6. Following on from my last post, here is a photo of the petcocks on my car before I shortened them: And, just for interest, is a picture of my car out and about:
  7. Hi Max and all, Thanks for the info. I have had minor success with seals between the flywheel and crankcase. One thing I have noticed is that the petcocks on my car were quite long, meaning I have been putting a lot of oil. See this thread: I have cut the tubes on my petcocks back to what Karl's are in this photo (about 1.5 inches from bottom of thread) down from nearly 2 inches. This results in significantly less oil in the motor (I was putting in about 2 litres into the crankcase). I'm sorry I missed the Singleton Rally but my car has just been leaking too much oil to properly enjoy. We'll see how it goes with the shorter petcock tubes. Fingers crossed. Cheers, Andrew.
  8. Well, I got an oil seal that seems to fit ok in behind the flywheel. Installed it today and then started the car briefly (no radiator!) and lo and behold, no oil leaking out. How long the seal will last I wouldn't like to say. However I wired together the bolts that hold the crank handle to the front cross member which enables to me to easily remove the crank handle without removing the radiator (which I have had to do until now as the bolts turn under the radiator when undoing the nuts). This means I just have to remove the front apron and crank handle to access the flywheel with the puller and get it off. That way I can fairly easily try different seals or materials if my current fix doesn't last long....
  9. Got a two arm puller which popped the flywheel straight off so that was the trick. Now to see if I can come up with a seal to fit in between flywheel and crank case...
  10. G'day Hup fans, Any tips for pulling the flywheel off the Hup 20 motor? I have had mine off before but am struggling to get it off this time. I'm thinking a 2 arm bearing puller of the right size (which I don't have) may be the best to fit in between the fan blades. Currently using a 3 arm puller which I can't get an even pressure on. My car is leaking too much oil out the crank case behind the flywheel so am going to try and see if I can get a modern oil seal in there. I know they did this from new to a certain extent but the amount oil my car is spraying out is too much and oil is getting everywhere (and I haven't taken it for a decent drive yet...). I also lose oil from the mag cover. I have a metal baffle in there but someone mentioned an oil seal in the cover itself? I don't see how one could fit?? As usual - any help , tips, suggestions gratefully received. Regards, Andrew.
  11. That's a bummer David - does that mean you have to take the camshaft out of the side plate? Or does the cam gear come off the end ok? Was it a fibre cam gear? I am still trying to sort my Model 20. It starts and idles beautifully and has been fine in the few parades I've taken it in this year. However, it just seems to always stumble on acceleration and I can't work out if its spark or fuel. However I think it may have been too retarded as I have recently advanced the magneto gear and am only now at about 15 degrees BTDC. So we'll see. Good luck with your repairs - hope its sorted quickly. It's a lovely looking car. Regards, Andrew.
  12. Hi All, I found this clip of the movie "A Jitney Elopement" from 1915 starring Charlie Chaplin. This really demonstrates the superiority of the Hup Model 20 over the Model T Ford!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiTaPSlFUdE I wonder if this is the only period film footage of a Hup 20 still around? Cheers, Andrew.
  13. Hi All, For the Model 20 owners - I am wondering what type of spark plugs you are using and what gaps you are running? My car idles at low revs beautifully but hesitates badly under acceleration and I am trying to narrow down the cause. One of my suspects is the plugs. I am running an NH Holley carby (from T Model Ford) as I don't have a Breeze and the bottom section of my inlet manifold has been cut off at some stage. The fuel delivery line had a big U-bend in it before arriving at the carby and this was eliminated today by re directing and modifying the line so it now has a fairly steady fall from tank to carby with no "uphills" - this definitely seems to help but it still hesitates under acceleration (whether it be idling or actually driving). I also wondering if a magneto refurbish is also on the cards... Cheers, Andrew.
  14. Well, I put 30 weight oil back in the gearbox on the weekend and then started it up. Initially I was disappointed as there seemed to be no improvement. Then, suddenly, it slipped into gear and I found I could put into first and reverse quite easily. I presume it took a little while to get the remnants of the heavier oil off the clutch plate faces. As always, thanks for everyone's input. Regards, Andrew.
  15. Thanks Ken, I drained the oil out of the gearbox and then found I could push (with much difficulty) the car in gear with the clutch depressed. An improvement over not being able to push it at all and probably still has the thick oil clinging to surfaces and binding things up a bit. I know the adjusters you mean and my car does have them. When I had it apart I was pretty careful with those to get a good even pressure on the spring. From memory we only screwed them in far enough so that the depth of each one matched the spiral of the spring with the 'shallowest' screw being about flush with the back of the clutch hub. Will add some 30 weight and try that (when I get a chance in between work and all the other stuff that keeps getting in the way!). Am hopeful that this will cure the problem. Cheers, Andrew.