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About Luv2Wrench

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  • Birthday 02/19/1966
  1. Wow... fixtures to offset the part being turned... that opens up all kinds of possibilities. It is really incredible what you're coming up with. To save me going back through the posts... what's the thing in the middle that you're holding the piece with?
  2. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    Since we're talking about jacks and jack stand safety... if you are buying jacks stands these days you might want to re-weld them. Almost all brands/models are two pieces of stamped steel joined with, get this... a spot welded butt joint. That shouldn't even be a thing (and I likely just made up that term). If you look at your stands you'll see what I mean. I had a set of 3 tons holding my modern sedan up and I took a break for the night. Being the paranoid type that I am, I had another set of jack stands positioned next to the jack stands but at a slightly lower level (obviously you can't get them tight up against the frame). When I went under the car that morning I noticed that the secondary set of jack stands was now tight against the frame. One of the other jack stands had split right at that spot welded butt joint. I've attached a picture and circled the area I'm talking about... the joint runs all the way up the stand under the sticker... same for the other side. Mine had 4 spot welds. I threw them in the garbage, bought 5 ton jack stands, took the stickers off (the one that warns against modifying the jack stand) and had them re-welded with a true continuous butt weld.
  3. Amazing how much gets turned off.
  4. Amazing works as usual, you sure don't disappoint!!
  5. 1952 MG TD

    Yes, wood frame with sheetmetal wrapped around and nailed. The wood on this poor guys is 90% gone... not just rotted, but decomposition cycle complete gone. Thanks! I made the cabinet long enough to handle axles and it has worked out very well.
  6. 1952 MG TD

    Working on a "basket case" restoration is like working on a puzzle without the box top to show you what it looks like. In this case it is even more difficult because I don't have all the pieces and pretty much none of the special BSF nuts and bolts. Today that changed!! I picked this guy up for a reasonable price. The engine is seized, the body is rusted through and it has no usable interior parts... but it is a great "box top" and a great supply of nuts and bolts.
  7. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    Agreed, I'm not sure what the part is called either, but I've attached a picture with it circled. You might have a different model, but that 'cup' is supposed to be on the jack you have. Without that cup it will slide off every time. Granted you never trust them anyway and only use them to lift and then secure with jack stands.
  8. JV puts his machining skills where is mouth is as well... I wouldn't have my Hendey lathe running if it weren't for him.
  9. So there's nothing on the lap but the paste? Did you fabricate the hold downs or is that something easily purchased?
  10. maybe he should have swapped the tow vehicle with the vehicle he was towing!!
  11. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Yep, that's the set, though I paid the full price, no special when I ordered mine. It seemed like the end of the world when I purchased them mainly because the plain steel nozzles didn't last more than a couple of hours. At the time I had no idea there was that big a difference. They mentioned one carbide was 30x longer than a ceramic but I was using the plain steel ones at the time. I didn't realize that the ceramic was way better than plain steel and thus the carbide was nearly infinitely better than the plain steel.
  12. It really is brilliant, thanks for posting the extra pictures to give us some context!!
  13. 1960 MGA Restoration

    I think the basic problem is the Clogmaster 2000 was designed to clog. I know that when I first tried a syphon gun (Crapmaster 150) in a cabinet it was terrible, it could hardly pick up any media. I later got a nice syphon gun from TP Tools and the difference was incredible... mind you the rest of the system was unchanged. The only problem I had with it was the nozzles wore out super fast. TP Tools sold carbide nozzles for just under $450,000 (which I thought was expensive) but I've using the same nozzle for over 2 years. Out of curiosity (boredom more likely) I took the two guns apart and compared them. While the TP Tools gun had larger diameter passage ways, the biggest difference was were the passageway changed directions it was a nice radius whereas the Crapmaster 150 would have a 90 turn. The Clogmaster 2000 probably has twice the number of fittings that would need the same attention to detail in the design that likely didn't happen. I have an similar model of the Clogmaster and I took it apart (OK, I'll admit, it clogged one time too many and I beat it to pieces with a baseball bat) and it looked to me that the bottom 'T' fitting was probably where the main problem was. It seemed that one might be able to replace all the various fittings with larger diameter and it would work better. By this time, however, I had the TP Tool syphon gun and I just stuck the feed hose in a bucket and blasted away outside. Chris: What paint are you using on the chassis parts? I really like the sheen.
  14. Joe, looking nice. Do you have a picture of the original parts that you're making? Maybe where it fits on the engine?
  15. Nice job... took me a couple of read throughs to understand that the non-brass part was a fixture to hold the flange so you could turn it and probably other steps to come. I think I got mesmerized by the nice pictures and didn't read the captions!!