Luv2Wrench

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About Luv2Wrench

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/19/1966

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Johns Creek, GA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars and tools

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  1. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    More stuff bolted on. Water pump, timing gears, chain, tensioner, etc. Just about ready to put the sump on along with generator and starter. I'll rebuild the carbs next. Still need to assemble the gearbox and add that along with bell housing, pressure plate and clutch to the engine. Can't put the engine in the car without all of that as the back "mount" is on the gearbox! As such, the likely hood of it running this weekend is pretty much nil... along with the fact that my "core plug set" that I ordered doesn't come with the one for the camshaft. Like... why not??? I've ordered those items and some other things that I need but those will not be here before next week. However... the piles of parts is rapidly dwindling and thus easier to find things. I took some time to separate out all the parts that were not going to be used as they were extras, original but too worn out or for a different car/engine. I would have done this earlier but, quite frankly, I really didn't know what was what.
  2. Luv2Wrench

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Wow, that's a great idea, thanks for the tip!!
  3. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Thanks r1lark! The engine is attached to the frame in two spots, the front and by the back of the gearbox. The weight of the engine/gearbox is resting on rubber blocks (both front and rear). Any side to side movement is resisted by the two bolts in the front engine mount and a stabilizer arrangement just above that. Vertical movement is also resisted by those two bolts in the front. The gearbox mount (where the clevis attaches) is a little different. It needs to allow a little more movement... certainly a little more rotational movement. What it doesn't want to do is let the gearbox lift up. This is where the clevis comes in. It will allow the gearbox to rotate but not move up. It was common for these mounts to break because the desire to lift in the lower gears is prevalent. The fix that is recommend (with the bolt) should still allow the rotational movement but hopefully resist the vertical movement. I'm hoping the bolt (grade 5 not grade 8 ) will also have a little give... at least more than the casting did. Knowing my luck it'll probably break on the first drive
  4. Luv2Wrench

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Really looking good but you sure are scaring me with your issues so far. I think it is safe to assume I'll have the same issues. I think I have two or three sets of carbs so maybe I'll be able to scrape up enough parts to get one get set. The air filter up in post 235 is just amazing. Maybe you should be rebuilding my carbs!!!
  5. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Somewhat better progress today but I've come to the conclusion that I'm just slow. I'm slow getting out to the shop in the morning, slow getting started, slow getting back after lunch, slow, slow, slow. I've probably always been a little slow but now that I'm older, I've really gotten slow. It helps that I don't make as many mistakes as I used to and I enjoy the relaxed pace but I do get frustrated when installing the 10 cylinder head studs takes over an hour. Anyway... got the oil pump on, cylinder head and mostly assembled the rockers. I still need to tighten the bolts on the rockers as well as torque them down and bend up the tabs. A good bit of my "slowness" is I'm having a hard time finding things. Baggies that I carefully labeled have, apparently, been able to grow feet/wings and move themselves about the shop. I do think.... that the more I get put together, the less stuff I'll have to dig through and thus the faster things will get.
  6. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Still holding to the couple of hours a day routine though it is sometimes hard to see the progress. I got two of the MGA tires mounted on the newly restored wheels and put those on the rear so the car is back off the jack stands! These are just for rolling the car around and I'll be replacing all the tires with new tires when I'm done. There were several miscellaneous pieces that didn't get painted that I now need, mainly the radiator. I got those painted and started getting those items on the car. I got the crankshaft back and have started assembling the engine. I turned a 2 hour job into 6 hours but the end results was it was done correctly. I had to make some little fixtures to hold the grudgeon pin in a vise (while in the piston) so I could tighten the bolt on the rod without bending the rod (or scratching the piston). My ring compressor tool was just a little too big so I had to run out and get a smaller one. Once I finally got the pistons and rods in and connected to the crankshaft it proved difficult to turn over. I was worried about that so I tore it all back apart and measured all the bearings again one by one. As physics would have it... they all still measured 0.001" like they did when I checked them before I put it together. I think the issue was a combination of the assembly lube I'm using, very thick and tacky, and the 0.001" fit on the connecting rods. So with the thicker lubricant, 1 thou bearing clearance and new rings it was just a little tighter than I'm used to feeling. I'll get the cotter pins in, wire the nuts on the main bearings and then start on the rest of the engine. I've laid everything out and I should be able to make some better progress tomorrow.
  7. Wow that looks great!! Too bad about the part, but yeah, you're right, finding a competent welder is worth more than what you paid him. BTW, I LOVE that Starrett hacksaw.
  8. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Had a great day today. I have two nice wheels and three not as nice wheels. I media blasted those (twice) and straightened the rims using my Craftsman MG TD Wheel Rim Straightenerâ„¢ Managed to dodge the rain showers and got three nice coats of primer on the wheels and other items like the driveshaft. One issue I've had is the tail casting of the gear box is broken where the clevis attaches it to the gearbox mount. This is a common issue with the MG TD. I've seen various fixes with the common theme of running a bolt through to either fix the broken area or for the clevis to attach to. I drilled a hole straight through and then tapped one side. I ran a bolt through with Loctite red and cut the head flush. It needs to be flush on each side as that is where the rubber sits in the mount. I'm pleased with how it turned out. I'll fill in the area with JB Weld and finish it off with a little red paint. Should be stronger than the original and look at least similar.
  9. I'm starting to think you didn't need the parts car, you could've just started with some pictures. I feel guilty now for ordering parts for the MG online.
  10. Luv2Wrench

    1935 Lincoln K V12 Club Sedan

    So you didn't have a spool of 22 gauge speaker wire laying around? Joking aside... very nice job making that electrically correct and look period correct.
  11. Luv2Wrench

    1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore

    Wish I had my treasure box from back then... I loved finding something that would be worthy of putting in there. Brings back a lot of fun memories!!
  12. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Yes, I took 3 readings on each with Plastigage red.
  13. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    Hope everyone is having (or had) a great 4th!! I had a little extra time today and was hoping to make a lot of progress on the engine. After getting everything setup and verifying I had everything I needed, I decided to check the clearances on the main bearings. Unfortunately that's pretty much where things ended for the day. I had the crank ground .020 under and while that was correct, there was a problem with the middle bearing. The middle main bearing is flanged and thus has a thrust surface as well. Since the bearings are .020 over, the width is also .020 over. I asked my machinists to check this but I guess he missed it. As such, the crank wouldn't fit in the middle bearing. I was pretty disappointed and frustrated as I really hadn't even gotten started and it was already over. I decided to take the middle bearing out and test the clearance on the front and rear bearings. The desired clearance here is 2 to 3 thousandths and it measured out at 2.5 so I was pretty happy with that. I checked the connecting rod bearings as well. The desired clearance there is .5 to 1.5 thousandths and it measured right at 1.0 thousandths. Having those measurements dead nuts on pretty much made up for the earlier issue with the middle bearing. Hopefully my machinists can get the middle of the crank ground down to fit the bearing without much issue. I did get the cam installed and that worked out well. I managed to get some other stuff done on the car so the day wasn't wasted. I spent forever installing the pedals only to realize they're probably going to have to come back out. They have a boot that goes over them and I think the only way the boot goes on is with the two pedals loose of the shaft... otherwise the tops of the pedals are too far apart. Oh well...
  14. Luv2Wrench

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Looking great! I feel your pain with Moss parts needing adjustment. Just about everything needs some adjustment. I also think that artwork not being a perfect duplicate might very well be for fear of copyright violation. I'm a little concerned to see those air filters because I have the same thing and it makes me wonder if they are not for the TD. I've been disappointed several times to find out my best parts are actually for an MGA. Hopefully they were used on both.
  15. Luv2Wrench

    1952 MG TD

    @Mark80439 Most things are though not everything. If you look a couple posts up, you'll see the front of the frame. Note that the detent for the steering is on both sides but the box for the pedals is not. I guess areas that would have been difficult to do were mirrored, areas done later in the process were not. Also, notice the steering rack casting has bumps on both sides. LHD has the steering shaft/gear on the left side while the RHD would have it on the right. At production time the casting would be machined one way or the other. Gearbox has similar features as does the engine. There's been plenty of times I wondered what a particular casting feature, bracket or hole was for.