bunchabuix

EmTee, Thanks for your good "how to". Your description sure simplifies what the chassis manual sez. I'm planning to do the other side as well. I appreciate the tip to clean out the axle tube; would have never thought of that. I'm off to Harbor Freight!

Right rear axle seal is leaking, grease running off the backing plate onto the the back side of the tire. Of course, the brake shoes and related parts covered in grease! In reading the shop manual, I'd need an axle puller, remove the bearing retaining ring, and press the new bearing & seal onto the axle. I've not done this job before and don't have a puller or press. Is this job difficult? Also, can some one recommend a parts source? Ebay shows a seal & thin gasket, I'm assuming the bearing OK. Thanks Jerry '

Astray - Definitely 1941 convertible, rear seat, one ashtray on both left & right. Possibly other years, probably 1940.

If you are just replacing the front motor mounts, remove the fasteners, place a wide board, IE 2x4, etc. under the oil pan and gently lift the motor enough to remove the mounts. If you are having them rebuilt, place a small block of wood in the space where the mount was & lower the lifting jack so the engine rests on the wood blocks. I recommend Steele Rubber in NC to rebuild the mounts. Turnaround is approx. 3-4 weeks. Jerry

Thanks to all who responded, I might try the single action pump, Chev truck application, since I have eliminated the vacuum lines/routing & wiper motor already. Stay safe!

Hi Matt & Craig, Thanks for your quick reply. Jerry BCA ROA

I need to replace the fuel pump on my Century. I also replaced the vacuum wiper motor with an electric wiper motor, so I don't need the vacuum side of the fuel pump. Does anyone know if a single action fuel pump from 1957 or later will work on the '56?

I replaced the steel brake lines on my '56 Century several years ago. I had the line that runs along the X part of the frame made in TWO pieces, had the fitting to join them together placed in an open area for ease of connection. Fishing a one piece brake line that's approx. 3 feet long thru the frame was next to impossible.

Avgwarhawk, Thanks, I'll look for that bolt/stud again, I don't recall seeing it when looking for a place to attach the tube. Jerry

56Buick & old-tank, Thanks for your reply. Its been a few years since I removed the heads & other parts, including the draft tube. I don't recall having to undo the bell housing bolt to remove the tube, but there's a lot of things lately I don't recall. I suppose at the time I said to myself, " I'll surely know where the tube attaches" I bagged & tagged most things, and NOT having a bolt for the tube in a baggy & marked supports your reply that the fastener is the bell housing bolt. Best regards, Jerry

RE: Crankcase vent System on a 1956 OOPS Sorry - My question about he draft tube attaching bolt---forgot to state. Buick is a '56 Century. Jerry

If I may butt in here, I'm finishing up a valve job, putting the parts back, came to install the draft tube. Engine is in the car, wiggled the tube down behind the engine, scratching up the newly painted tube.Got under the car to attach the bolt thru the tube bracket, and I CANNOT locate where the draft tube bracket bolt attaches! Somewhere to the bell housing? Advise appreciated. Jerry

Bob (Bhigdog), Thanks for confirming what I thought was OK to do. Always nice to have a 2nd opinion! Jerry

Finishing up a valve job ( and more) on this engine, started to pour oil in it over the rocker arm assembly, as the valve covers are off, and noticed the oil drains very slowly down the push rod holes, making a mess as the oil overflows onto the spark plug holes & Exh. manifold! The distributor is still out of the engine. My Question - Can I pour the oil down the distributor "hole" ? I don't see a problem in doing so; just wanted another opinion B4 I do another dumb thing!! Thanks!

Jim, Many THANKS for this information! I know of a couple of local guys who have the Fisher catalog, it didn't occur to me at the time to ask them. Jerry AACA BCA