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The return of the supercharged LN3


Guest F14CRAZY

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Guest F14CRAZY

Hey guys. At the moment I'm reviewing the factory FSM to remove my subframe, engine, and transmission from my '89.

You're all probably wondering why the fabled Series II, 6 speed "dream drivetrain" hasn't came around. The answer, is money <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />.

At any rate, in a quick scramble, Shroyer auto parts has a used 4T60 pulled actually from a '90 Reatta on hold for me ($200). I'm going to swap it in for the time being. The Sunday after next I plan on taking a spring break trip with my girlfriend to Venice, Florida. Any of you guys around there? I figured out that even with the cost of replacing my tranny, which I want to do anyway, I'm going to be saving like $200 in gas versus if we took my '92 Explorer. I'm going to be towing my pair of stand up Kawasaki Jet Skis on a 4'x4' trailer which my Reatta would do better anyway. And hey, we'll be in better comfort and style <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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So, I have like a week to swap out my transaxle, swap out the blown 550cc motor in the red ski, and make enough money for gas <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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Guest Greg Ross

Phil,

Having never dropped your Sub-frame before you should anticipate problems with the Isolator Bolts;

Like, finding they're badly corroded and break off rather then unthread, that's worst case.

Next worse potential is having the nut end break loose and just spin.

Highly recommend you douse them with penetrating oil for a week before you even put an impact gun to them.

Get the car blocked up high enough that you can get underneath "safely", you've got to have it up at least 3-4 feet to be able to slide the cradle out from under anyway.

Locate them all, all six of them and polk around each type until you figure out the sheet metal structure around each one, thare all different. Once you locate where the top of the bolt is, pour, spray, drip, slop the penetrating oil to them. The ones up at the radiator bulkhead I had trouble with once, Had to get a set of vice grips in to hold the nut piece from spinning. And they're not a nut in the sense that you can put a wrench on them, they're more like a tee nut that was spot welded in place.

I think if you tried to get heat on them you'd set the car on fire. There's a sheet metal box structure around each one. If I remember correctly you can probably reach in and touch the top/ thread end of every one of them.

Have you got replacement Isolators? They're quite possibly rotten/ hard rubber, there's a metal sleeve thru them tah you might find is pretty ripe.

Good luck and play safe. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Phil we just returned from Venice Fla. if you get a chance there is a 90 Reatta conv. @ Darby used cars on the east side of 41 south of Venice Ave about 2 miles.

The Gulf wasn't that warm yet but if you have a wet or dry suit you should have a good time, inland lakes watch out for the gators.

If you or your girl friend likes dogs there is a dog beach south of Sharky's thats always fun to go and watch BUT watch out for the gator that lives in that pond you walk by to get to the beach, this is all by the Venice airport. Enjoy and be safe.

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Guest F14CRAZY

Thanks guys for the info, especially Greg. I've been thinking about it, and am I better off to just pull the motor/transmission out the top? I can see how the hardware and the mounts can be a PITA.

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Guest Greg Ross

If you don't have a car hoist, which makes dropping the cradle out a relative breeze! I'd say you might be better off to take the hood off, take the rad. out to improve access and start wrenching.

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Even if you take the engine out the top, you are still going to have the rusted bolts holding up the bottem end. I would spend the money and replace them. Iif one or more should snap when you are putting it to the wood, you will find your hot setup on the ground under the car. It has happened. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Guest F14CRAZY

Ey Jim, we're probably going to hit up Tampa bay; I might have to take you up on your burger and coke offer. It'd be pretty cool to meet ya

I'm electing to pull the drivetrain out the top. I did a few hours of wrenching tonight after I got my Kawasaki JS550 going. Hood's off, A/C compressor (going to leave it in the car), radiator's out, most of the underhood harness, heater hoses, vacuum lines...

The hood was fun, I actually got it off myself. I bent over the passenger fender and picked it up <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I'm picking up the tranny tomorrow and hope to at least have the drivetrain out as well. We have a small backhoe setup of which I plan to use to lift it out. I plan on degreasing and powerwashing everything off before it goes back in. I've picked up a tranny filter/gasket kit along with 12 quarts of ATF. I'm gonna use Maxlife ATF, since it was on sale at Advance, is still synthetic blend at least, and is half the cost of Mobil 1 ATF (remember, college student on a budget here <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />). I wish there was a way to find out how much of a difference running synthetic ATF in the original transaxle made in extending its life. I'm certain my aux. cooler helped though.

I wonder how the 4T60 does in a Vixen...

Thanks again guys, will keep you updated.

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