rear brakes

[21253]

I was wandering is it a nesseairy to replace the two bolts that hold the calaper to the knuckle on the rearbrakes thakks for any help <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

A BIG Y E S !

Unless you desire an very irrating clashing and banging when on even the slightest bumps, then replace the following:

Replace the Pads with Delco Durastops

Purchase the 4 caliper bolts from NAPA (most reasonable)

Purchase 2 "kits" (includes absolutely NECESSARY hardware including rubber components)

Purchase Permatex brake lube

Purcahse Permantex "Squeal Stop" (I guess it is like a adhesive for the pads)

Very important that you become sterile in your work habits and do not neglect replaceing any (including the little rubber tube inserts ....may be a pain but you will be sorry if you don't) of the above.

I also peened the edges of the pads to make them fit a little snugger in the caliper (G. M. Ross suggeted this....). I have not had the first bit of trouble since I replaced mine as above.....

There is a ton of posts on this topic in the forums history or search function.....good luck <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[manikmekanik]

If these caliper pins, (bolts holding caliper to bracket), are worn, corroded or bent, they must be replaced. The smooth surface is crucial to the operation of the rear brakes. Bent, or corroded pins can cause the calipers to "hang-up" and either not release pressure on the pads, or not allow the pads full contact, or even cause wear to one pad, over the other.

While you're in there, check te caliper mounting bracket for signs of a crack. I found one on my '88 coupe, but none of the other 8 cars have shown a problem so far.

[Guest MauiWowee]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also peened the edges of the pads to make them fit a little snugger in the caliper </div></div>

As in beveling the edges of the linings, or the steel backing, Nic?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I don't think the Aurora rear brakes rattle <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

The edges of the steel pad backing Maui....Peened or mushroomed to make ever so slightly larger (believe it or not, this may have really helped...may have also just been a >>combination<< of replacing with Durastops, replacing the bolts/kits, applying the lubes/adhesives, and the peening that resolved the noise issues)

[101087]

In this post you say to buy 2 "kits". What kits are you refering to? I love my "new" car, but I

need to try and get rid of the rear brake rattle.

Thanks,

[Guest dpannell]

My "rattle" came from the emergency brake part of the calipers......I replaced both rear calipers and brackets @ $53.48 ea. (OEM parts) Dave

[Roadster90]

Kits comprise of new installation parts/grouments (just a few, but necessary parts).

[101087]

I've read all of the posts about the rear break rattle and not being able to fix it because the OEM brake pads are NLA. Will buying new or rem. calipers correct the problem? Are these calpers "different" than the OEM calipers and have pads that are meant to fit them. Or, are they just the same calipers with non-fitting brake pads? I will gladly buy new calpers to "fix" the problem. If so, what brand and where to buy?

Thanks,

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've been thinking...one can use larger '97 Aurora rear calipers and hardware without any modifications. However, when I only upgraded my rears and had stock fronts, the rears would grab first. Stepping the pedal just a little more would make the fronts grab, resulting in a bit of a nosedive. Keep in mind though, my fronts still had old pads and rotors while the rears were turned and had new pads, which may have been the difference.

My Aurora brake upgrade

I've done some research and you can actually go even bigger, using like F-body hardware, and even C5 Corvette Z06 hardware <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />, however, the Aurora stuff doesn't rattle and is still an upgrade in your stock braking. You can go ahead and do the fronts as well, but you need at least 16'' wheels for the calipers to clear.

[101087]

Thanks for the info. I have 2 questions (for now). Did you ever figure out the E-brake problem? Number two is not ment to offend you in any way (it's a great write up), but I like second opinions (especially when it come to stopping). Has anyone else done the upgrade and how do you like it? From the great post, it seems to be straight forward and not too expensive. I'll do anything to get rid of the rattle.

Thanks,

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I haven't got to the E brake problem yet. I really should have it for emergencies in case Teves decides to quit, but since Michigan doesn't have inspections, and the car's an automatic, I haven't had much incentive. And, it's been in storage for the past few months.

No offense taken at all. However, Greg Ross was the pioneer of the idea of the brake upgrade, though I think I was first to do the fronts AND the rears.

Also, Scott of The Auto Shop has a Trofeo (another E-body car) with the front brake upgrade. He actually sells it as a kit.

[Richard S]

What exactly is the emergency brake problem that has to be corrected on the rear? I recall you writing that the cable is not long enough. Just where is it too short? Are the cable connections at the caliper the same configuration? What about the connection between the intermediate cable and the left and right? Would the problem be solved by using left and right cables from the Aurora tied to the Reatta intermediate cable?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I'll let you know when I get back home to the Experimentory