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16V Masihead maserati for sale on ebay


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One had a bad differential bearing causing the diriver's side axle to wobble under power, the second trans had clutch issues not the least of which there are no more clutches available. The last stock clutch I could find won't hold the torque the motor is making now, Then the custom Clutchnet clutch couldn't get along with the 284. Which brings me to where I am now, using a more serviceable, parts available, rebuildable Chrysler FWD transmission, the 523.

Alan

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  • 4 weeks later...

Actually, I ended up buying this car for my Dad. He was in the process of moving from Michigan, to Oregon, where this car is located. He was going to pick it up yesterday, but I haven't heard back from him. Terry, the current owner/$eller, is the 2nd owner. He bought it from his business partner. He primarily drove it back and forth from Oregon to Las Vegas. He claimed 140+MPH.

I have a Red/Ginger '89 TII at the moment. If my Dad decides he doesn't like the 5-Speed, I'm going to trade him mine, plus $1000.00. And deliver the Red one.

Fat Tony - www.smashbandits.com

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Well, I'll Be! My Dad doesn't like the way he fits in this car, so he's letting me have it, and keep my Lil Red Roadster! Is there room in my heart for 2 TC's? More realistic, is there room in my Garage? I'll be flying from Detroit, and driving the car home from Eugene, Oregon. Should be a Nice, leisurely drive in Late July/Early August.

Okay, so once I get this Rock-Stock, low-mile 5-Spd, what are the Mods to make it "Mo-Betta"?

Fat Tony - www.smashbandits.com

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20% larger injectors, a good flowing exhaust system (the whole thing from DP back) a grainger valve set to 16PSI and it is a Subaru WRX (not STI sorry), Nissan 350 ZX beating machine. I have taken out like 3-4 of those cars each with mine before the last round of mods... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Alan

Check with Rick Diogo on this list or rick@rdiperformance.com He is pretty much the center of the 16V Masi performance universe <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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  • 2 weeks later...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Alan,

That upper intercooler hose on that TC is actually stock. All the 1990 model year TC's with the 4v head got that smooth upper intercooler hose. It's similar to the Spirit R/T upper intercooler hose but not quite as long. Just a neat little piece of trivia for ya...

later bro!

Rick <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

ACKK! Everyone I know has 89's <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Showing my inexperience I guess... You da man Rick <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Alan

PS You were right, mounting a Garrett on a DOHC manifold is a PIA! Points the wrong way <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I got the eBay car delivered last night. It took 3 washings just to get it back to being Dirty!!! It was getting dark, but I couldn't let her sit with 4000 miles of road grim on her one minute longer! I felt dirty afterwards.

This morning I took her on a 100 mile shakedown. I checked all the vital fluids, air pressure, and packed a tool kit, and away we went. I noticed the accelorator pedal is hard to push, then it seems to go to far. I lubed up the linkage, but I think it maybe the cable, and sitting for most of the last 2 years, are the problem. Is this a common feature of the 16V cars? Is there an adjustment or a trick to make it smoother?

I noticed the temp gauge hardly moved for 15 miles, then shot to 3/4's hot quickly, and then lowered after about 30 seconds to a normal range. Kind of a sick feeling for a moment. Shortly after that I was stopped at a red light, and saw smoke or steam coming from under the hood! I quickly pulled over, and got under the hood, only to find the PCV valve pipe that goes into the back of the head had pivoted out from it's hole, and had dripped a couple of drops of oil onto the exhaust manifold. I tightened up the nut behind the head, but it did pop out several more times during the test drive. It seems to be pivoting were the nut tightens up. I think it vibrates loose. (Is this a COMMON Annoyance? Qwik Fix available?) Also, that "Smooth Hose" for the intercooler is only a sleeve. It has the "Bumpy" hose underneath!

The car drives very well, and the turbo boosts Hard! The body will need some work, and paint to make her Gorgeous again. The hood, trunk lid and gas filler door just don't quite look like they are lined up perfectly. Not as well as my '89 TII anyways. Overall, I got a Great Deal for $4002.20. Under the hood and in the car are Very Clean. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions as I get into this project. I've got the Personalized plate of 5SPD TC for her.

OH!!! What badges are these cars supposed to have? On each fender I have a "Chome" TURBO - MULTI-PORT FUEL INJECTION badge, and below it a Red 16 vavle Intercooled badge. Is this correct? Almost looks Cheesy.

Anyways, got to go buff out the Leather!

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Feels just a bit different than a SOHC TC eh <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />?

The throttle on the DOHC has four springs! Two double springs, I did away with one of my return springs and it feels right now. Also there are some 'ball and socket' linkage points that need to be lubed. Without a doubt, it is the craziest throttle linkage set up on and FWD Chrysler product. In fact one multiple 16V TC owner did away with that whole set up and uses a standard throttle body from another FWD Chrysler model and it is so much cleaner IMO.

Be sure you check that trans fluid level! The axle seals tend to weep a bit.

If you like the way the car feels now, mybe you should make contact with Rick Diogo, rick@rdiperformance.com and get yourself a hotter SMEC module and whatever other goodies you can afford. 50 more HP is way easy on these cars.

It would be a good idea to bleed the brakes with a friend, especially if the fluid is dark. If it is start with the rears and depress pedal/crack open Zirc/close Zirc/release pedal until the fluid comes out clear. Use clear vinyl tubing into your catch container, much easier to tell when you are done that way.

That PVC rubber threeway T is still availble at the dealer, just spec out any other FWD turbo model. Some small black zip ties after the new one is assembled keeps them from blowing off anymore. Vacuum hoses will really start to pop off if you decide to run more boost <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Better to back up any questioneable ones with the zip ties now...

Nice to hear someone's 'first impressions' with their new TC <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Keep em coming

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, here's the Latest from the 5SPD TC. I noticed an exhaust leak starting, and thought it might be where the cat hooks up to the rest of the exhaust. So I look under there, and WOW! No Cat! And HUGE Pipe going all the way back to the stock muffler, where it is fabricated in. Interesting, but not the source of my problem. So, I start at the top, and there it is! The turbo was replaced before I bought the car. It was changed at a Local Garage in SmallTown, Oregon. 3 of 4 of the nuts at the turbo flange were finger tight! I tightened the 2 top ones easy enough. But the bottom 2! I got the Drivers side bottom. I had to remove the water & oil lines to the turbo, and the hose from the intercooler just to get a wrench on the nut. It would give me about an 1/8th turn. Got it snugged up, and it's a lot better, but that 4th nut, that's >Finger-Tight still has an exhaust leak! So, Calling All Turbo-Guru's! What's the secret technique to getting a wrench on the lower, drivers side nut that bolts the turbo to the exhaust manifold? From my vantage point, it looks like pulling the exhaust manifold may be in order! Not something I relish doing.

Other than that, I'm LOVING this car! Dream Cruise is 3 Weekends Away! I'll be taking LOTS of pictures.

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I guess I've never tried to access that nut with the turbo/manifold on the car. If you have already pulled off the oil and water lines and still can't get at it, not sure what else you can try. A word of caution pulling oil lines though. Most companies that remanufacture turbos and offer a warranty with them, will not offer the warranty if you don't buy a new oil feed line at the same time. What has been shown is that when you loosen/handle an 'old' oil feed line, coked oil, deposits and whatnot can break loose from the insides of the line causing them to be sent strait to the bearing <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Bearing failure happens in short order after that. Even the 'hard line' OEM style can flex enough for the junk to break free and give you troubles. I'm not saying I've never reused an oil feed line <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> but since I found out about the bearing issue a few years back, I meticulously clean a used line with carb cleaner spray and pipe cleaners and a long piece of safty wire to feed the pipe cleaner all the way thru until the carb cleaner doesn't show any more color.

Now for the next pitfall with your problem. There is a metal shim style gasket between the IHI turbo and the manifold (none for the Garretts on the 8V cars) and depending on how long it has been leaking exhaust gas, it may be damaged more than tightening can fix. The hot gasses going past a gasket of this nature will act like a blowtorch and burn the portion of the gasket that sees the most heat. I found mine to be split and leaking upon dissasembly last year (70K mile motor) though I never heard it hissing under boost. I couldn't find any new gaskets so I cleaned/sanded the mating surfaces of the manifold and gasket well and am using a high temp sealant from LocTite. The sealant is only rated to 900' F but it should just burn up a bit and stay in place well enough to keep the seal. Also I had the manifold checked for flatness by my machinist, after he got done marveling at the design (for you flowbench guys they flow 262, 280, 284, 260 from #1 to #4 so they move plenty of 'air' stock but can be improved drastically with careful porting <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />) the way the runners merge and the extra ribs added for strength and resistance to cracking; he said it was the flattest used exhaust manifold he had ever seen <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I had planned on having it surfaced at the head flange and turbo flange but it was already close to perfect <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

The more I dig into this 16V motor, the more impressive the engineering <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I'll make exception for the valvesprings and exhaust valves in that last statement <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

Alan

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The Oil Return line has been replaced. Twice actually! It was replaced when the turbo was replaced, but when my Brother\Father picked it up, they noticed it was Pinched somewhat, and replaced it again.

Even with the oil, water, and turbo lines removed, I can not see any way to get a wrench on that nut. So, it's looking like my options are to put it in the Shop and let a Pro deal with it, or Yank the exhaust manifold.

I think I might be parking this car early this year. I'd rather deny myself the pleasure of driving this Dream-Machine 1 season, than start doing some damage to it. I still have the Red '89. And after doing the Meguir's 3-Step program on her this weekend, she looks STUNNING! (Especially with my GF behind the wheel!) Dream-Cruise, 12 days & Counting. Woodward is already Bristling with Hot Cars on the weekends. Plus the other Motor-City Cruises are building up the excitement. Gratiot last weekend, Telegraph the weekend before that! I saw another Maserati at Telegraph. A green Indy. Woo-Hoo!

Yes, the engineering that went into these 16V cars will not likely be seen again. Imagine a world where these cars were the Norm!

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After a Very Entertaining series of Acrobatics, performed for the Senior's accross the street, I was able to get a Shorty 1/2" on the remaining turbo bolt. I'm guessing I got about 30 Lbs of Torque on it. But, alas, I have gotten there too late. There is still a very small exhaust leak. I can feel the slightest "Puff" at the corner.

I guess my next step is to try your Gasket repair, or see if one of my "Buddies" in the machine shop at work could Whip one up for me.

Oh, I also got my TC-America package in the mail yesterday! I'm a "Member!" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

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Okay, here's a new "Quirk" i've noticed over the last week.

While accelerating under Boost I can go through 1st & 2nd without incident. And from 2nd to 3rd is usually okay as well. But if I'm cruising, and drop down to 3rd or 4th, as the boost builds up, the car seems to lose all power for a split second, then kicks back in. It has done it twice in a row once in 4th.

Any ideas? Anything I should look at?

I haven't check for engine codes yet, and I run Sunoco 94 Octane Premium.

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