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Willhelm Reichert

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  1. http://members.aol.com/TCMasratiPage/TC/Specs.html
  2. A fuel pressure gauge taped to the hood while running would also eliminate the fuel pump as a problem source. Should be 55 psi + 1 lb for every inch of boost.
  3. Code 12 not the problem. I believe it's 50 starts to clear unless reset with diagnostic tool. The last post was based on guesses of what was disturbed installing head gasket. There is one other piano tuner in Ok. with a TC! If you are in Boston you are in heaven for pianos. You have to look up Mr Falcone. He now has a pastry shop in Haverhill. Ask HIM about pianos. Email me for more piano talk. I have had fun driving up to customers with the TC. My dentist and customer got a really nice one. (Hi doc!)
  4. What codes does it show? Key on/off/on/off/on. The check engine light will flash trouble codes if you are lucky. Does he have a scanner to get more detailed results from the computer? If not, I think it would be best to go where they can get real time codes at the time of failure. Otherwise it's a very tedious process of elimination. Taking another shot in the dark, he had to disconnect the injector wiring harness for the head removal and the wires at the connector on the engine side get pretty fried. I had a cracked wire there on one car. That would give you a weak signal for a lean condition (idle) but not enough for acceleration. this would also get worse over a short time period. He needs to pin probe the wiring from one side of the connectors to the wiring on the other side. Wiggle the wires while doing this to see if the circuit fails. There is also a ground wire from the firewall on passenger side to the back of the intake. This will cause injector firing problems if not connected. Plus the ground crossing the passenger side engine mount. If it doesn't jump from one side of the engine mount to the other, that can cause problems. Tell him my mechanic is having problems with an 84 Turissmo. That was a carbed 2.2 that was a nightmare of gadgets to meet emissions. At least he will know he is not alone. DON'T tell him a pianotuner is helping you. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Just tell him somebody with 19 years experience and 6 turbo dodges is helping you. I'm just finishing one that sat for 10 years. THAT has been a chalenge.
  5. Yes it's a swirl head. The groove is just barely visible. Only one. I'll keep the forged crank with the early block. It's good insurance for a block that was designed for 86 hp.
  6. Here is a pic of my rebuilt head by MPG Mike who is now writing a series of articles for Allpar. He even remembers reading Hemi's articles when he was a little boy and Hemi was young...er. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Here is a link to his article. http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/turbo-interview.html
  7. It should be an easy problem for a mechanic to diagnose. If you post where you are someone might know a good mechanic on Mopar products. It could be the switch or it could be a bad ground or I'm betting on a corroded connector somewhere. don't be like(name hidden to prevent embarrasment) who had a garage mess up his car, only to find out the TC "God" Hemi works in the same city. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
  8. It took me two days to recover from your post!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> RUST on a TC!!!!! Might want to apply some dielectric grease to the contacts to prevent future corrosion. If you have that much rust, you will also want some Permatex rust treatment for the turnsignals and any other rust spots. It's good stuff but potent. It has the familiar smell of acid. Sand the parts lightly and spray a couple coats with drying time between and then spray with color. I do this on all my cars. My TC will be getting this treatment this winter. I also drill pinholes for treating the inside of the rocker panels. Just remove the door sill to drill the holes. The first place the rockers rust out is the jacking points. EEK!!!!! Apparently the welds for the jacking points were not treated. I also do the inside of the half frame under the car. The trick is to get some of the plastic vac tubing as on the engine and drill the spray nozzle to accept this. Now you have a tube 12" long to get to the hard to reach spots. Also check the welded floor seams for rust and treat.
  9. Nope. If you are talking about the reflective surface, there are mirror shops that could reapply silver. That type of service for mirrors is hard to find. There is only one place in St. Louis that used to do it on antique mirrors. I doubt if it would be a "legal" headlight. If there is a compound to separate the lens from the back, the lens could be duplicated. But the result would NOT have dot approval.
  10. Welcome. The headlights don't come new. Been gone a LOOONG time. One member on the yahoo site has one for $450 plus shipping. That is the going price. Larry Carlson should have the turn signal light. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ChryslersTCbyMaserat/ You want to check the links there and join the TC club also.
  11. Yep. Mine is getting rolled in about 1 or 2 weeks. (blew the head gasket) Total engine rebuild, pull the seats for reupholstering. Maybe paint it since I have a spray booth. Or at least blend in the parts with bad clearcoat. (Don't tell the wife that it doesn't cost $800 to have the head "checked".) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
  12. Slyrose, I think Hemi was saying if the pigtail melts, the switch is bad. I'm beginning to think this is a symptom of the convertalbes that have been exposed to rain with the top down. You should be safe. As far as the battery clamps, if you have corrosion on the wires where they go into the clamp, it is bad. If all the insulation is still there, you will see the insulation swelled at the clamp. Mine had replacements on already. The solution for me was new clamps and "soldering" the wire with a propane torch to get it hot enough for the solder to melt. Having the wire end soldered gives a longer lasting connection. Email Hemi directly as to whether anything other than battery connection will shut down everything. My 4 Turbo Chryslers are the final cars I will buy. I'm 62 now and have had one for 19 years and 180,000 miles. I figure another 20 years should do it for my driving.
  13. One more thing. The battery connections and grounds were removed for the work. I just had a no start problem that was due to the battery terminal clamp going bad. They might look good but....That would be more along the line if the car ran good till the head gasket blew. I just checked another site and the cable connections can cause problems especially with the headllights on. I'm still betting on the hep.
  14. First check for codes. info here. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html throwing parts at it can get expensive but one I would suggest if there are no codes is the Hep sensor in the distributor. I will always carry one in the Chrysler turbo I drive. They fail in many ways and heat is one of the ways they act up. They run about $80 from the dealer. Good insurance. The first thing for you is to get the codes and go back to the mechanic with them. I'm starting a diagnostics file on the Yahoo site. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ChryslersTCbyMaserat/files/ Hemi has one section on no start and I added one on engine miss. There is another link there on diagnostics with a vac gauge that is very good with short video clips showing how stuck valves etc. affect a vac gauge. Post your codes; go back to mechanic with symptoms; if he can't find it suggest hep; see if that's the problem. Let us know the results.
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