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Stalled


Guest Flash

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Guest imported_Flash

Driving home tonight (1988 Reatta) pulled off the eway and she stalled while I was coasting from 60mph. Pulled to the light, restarted, shook, coughed, sputtered, and quit. Restarted, idled, put in drive and stalled. Restarted, placed in nuetral, gassed and dropped to drive. Made it around the corner, approaching another corner, placed in nuetral, coasted around that corner, dropped back to drive and drove home. Stalled again in the driveway. Restarted, high revved engine, pulled diagnostic codes (B122, B123, B448, B552, B553, all history). Turned off. Restarted, cleared codes, idled at 700rpm and no codes. Had added a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner to this tank (roughly 130 miles ago) Tonight prior to stall she was idling real low like 450, then just dropped to 0. Each time at throttle release or pedal let off.

Any thoughts????

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Guest imported_Flash

A little more history...

MAF sensor replaced 1-17-06

Fuel Filter replaced 8-6-05 (4000 miles ago)

Lots of other items replaced over the years but no record of the IAC. After 18 years, maybe this is it.

As a complete side note: I noticed during the recent MAF replacement that my air filter box was different. Had a tune up back in August '05 and I'm certain that the airfilter box used to open and a paper filter was inside that got changed occasionally. My current box appears to be a closed one piece unit with no visible filter inside. Anyone know anything about a change in air filters?????

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Guest imported_Flash

Been reviewing the service manual and cannot locate a diagram of the IAC. I know its approximate location (throttle body near the MAF). The manual displays an open ended wrench in the special tools required section, but can't believe I have to buy a wrench to change it. Anyone know where the replacement procedure is in the manual (1988), or better yet, can someone explain the logic to the service manual. I expect to go to the back, find IAC and be able to turn to a page (like in a thesaurus)and find out all there is to know...NOT confused.gif In various tables there is ED22 but that is not a code, then there is B7 and 12 but they do not represent anything of understanding to me. Then of course there is illustration 0255 but I have no clue where that is. etc.

Anyway, anyone change one and can give me a few pointers?

Thanks.

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Howdy Flash,

2 screws remove the IAC....Nothing but a long and well defined or fitted phillips screwdriver (don't bugger the screw heads), and a can of carb cleaner with rags and assorted cleaning devices (devices can be assorted screwdrivers etc. and are to put the rag on to clean out the IAC cavity) are needed to do a great job of cleaning.

I do not have a 88 manual (I am sure others are going to lend you instructions here shortly), but one part of the cleaning procedure that should be Stressed is....

Put or spread out a layer of cloth (large in area Rag) underneath (weave up under everything as well as you can) the IAC as the two little IAC retaining screws are stainless >>>>> not magnetic, and are very easily dropped or fumbled because of their size and location.....the screws are not easily replaced (Jim Finn maybe). Hope the IAC is the problem as it is the easiest to resolve....Good luck..... smile.gif

Nic

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Nic has it! STUFF THE AREA WITH RAGS. I thought I would be very careful when I did mine and still I dropped a screw. Flushed it out with the garden hose, I got lucky!

Still could be the butterfly valve being dirty and throwing off the mixture. I would also try that.

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Flash, I feel you pain. My Reatta just stops at 70 MPH without warning, as if someone turns off the key. It has been in the shop since October with no solution! I sure hope you have your car up and running in no time. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

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Guest imported_Flash

Thanks all. Nic, greatly appreciate the detail.

Today I started her up, (cold here -20 wind chill) and she ran perfect. Idled at 1100 while cold and at 700 after warm up. In drive or reverse she idled at 650-675 with no hesitation or stalling. Pulled her back in the garage and will try a run later. Whatever it was, it is not fixed, just not showing itself currently.

The ignition switch has not been replaced. (oops, I think that question was for Howard)

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Guest imported_Flash

Wanted to take a run today but couldn't even get her out of the driveway without stalling.

Pulled the IAC, cleaned, reinstalled and she runs like a champ.

Nic, I couldn't have done it without the specific details. Once I found the unit with 2 screws located near the MAF, then I figured I was close. Good thing I had the shop rags under the bottom screw or I would have lost it for sure.

The best thing about this job was it didn't cost me anything.

Thanks all.

Flash

post-32888-143137886682_thumb.jpg

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A quick tip ...I just pulled off my IAC sensor and cleaned it, was paranoid about those two screws too. I placed a polishing bonnet cover under the unit to catch any falling screws worked like a flexible cup with the elastic to form a catch all .. grin.gif

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