Engine Stalling

[Howard]

My harmonic balancer had a big hunk out of it, so I had it replaced. It seemed a very simple repair. I would have done it myself had I had the proper tools. The very next day while driving home the engine simply stopped as if someone turned the key off. The car would not start again, but turned over. I pushed it on home since I was less than a block away (what luck!). The next morning, the car started right up, so I took it back to the shop. Once at the shop, the car would not start again. Still no codes, and no "fire". They replaced the crank sensor and the car ran well again. Day before yesterday at 70 MPH the engine just stopped again. No warning, no missing, no jerking, no codes. It just stopped, again as if someone turned off the key. It would not start again. As luck would have it for a second time, it stopped in front of a dealership which a friend mine works for. She had some of the guys push it to the service department, where the car started right up. The car is still there, because of the hurricane that hit this area, their worked is very backed up and they have not had a chance to look at it yet. My money is on the coil pack or some wiring problem. Since no codes were ever set, I'm inclined to think that the problem is not in the electronics or any of the sensors. Any ideas?

[padgett]

If you have the service manual, look in section 6E3-A under "Drivability and Emissions". There is a sequence for "Cranks but Does Not Run" that specifies the steps to go through when it does not start to isolate the problem.

If you dod not have the service manual download CBDNR.

That said a failing fuel pump will act that way, sometimes starting and sometimes not. A pressure gauge on the fuel rail will tell the story.

[Howard]

Thanks, I do have a shop manual, it's in the trunk of the car which is at the shop. I overlooked the fuel pump as a possible cause. I guess because the car did not sputter or anything like that, it just stopped. That's a somewhat pricey repair is it not?

[Howard]

Here is an update. I worked in a new car dealership for almost 25 years, so the prices they charge for things usally don't shock me, till yesterday. They wanted $1100!!!! This is to replace the spark control mod., coil, crank sensor (already replaced two weeks ago), injector service, new spark plugs and wires. Needless to say, I picked the car up and replaced the spark control and coil myself. That did not solve my problem. The car still stops without warning. They did not check fuel pressure, I will have that done next week. However, I don't think it's a fuel problem because there is no "fire" at the coil when this happens. Anyway, I will report back next week when I take the car back to the place that fixed it a few weeks ago.

[Michael_V]

I had something similar happen. The thick wire bundle by the O2 sensor got to close to the engine and melted. Some of the wires inside grounded to the car causing the engine to stop when I was driving. This sounds close to what you are experiencing, but you may have something different.

[luftweg]

Can a PERMANENTLY mounted fuel pressure gauge be installed??

If so, what is the type to use?

I know those old ones made by Holley and such seem to be just for carburetor-equipped engines, and are not for high pressures...

K

[2seater]

I have a gauge under the hood connected at all times. This may not be for everyone, but I pulled the valve core from the test port. A #4 JIC 90* swivel screws right on the fitting. There is very little room for a hose that stands straight up with the hood closed and it will rub on the insulation, hence the 90 degree fitting. I used short length of fuel injection hose and hose barbs connected to the fuel rail fitting and to a 100 psi gauge from the hardware store. The gauge is zip tied to the front fender brace.