Valves too noicy

[Guffin]

The valves in my restored -53 straight 8 engine are a little too noicy, especially one valve. When asking the seller he said there were not hydralic lifter in the engine. Didn't all -53 engines have hydralic lifters? Does the older types of solid lifters from the 248 ci engine fit the 263 ci engine? How can I find out what type of lifters the engine has?

Nice to have friends to ask!

Jan

[Bill Stoneberg]

You should have hydraulic lifters, all straight 8's after 1950 have them.

I cant answer if the older ones would fit or not, I wouldn't imagine they would though.

The only way to tell would to be to pull one out which could be a chore. Have you checked to see if the noisey one is getting oil to it ?

[critterpainter]

I believe that if the car has a Dynaflow it would have hyd lifters. BUT if you have a manual trans then you will have mechanical lifters. You cannot change from mech to hyd or visa-versa without changing the camshaft as the profile is different.

Bill

[Guffin]

Thank you Bill and Critterpainter. I looked in the "Motor´s Auto Repair Manual" I got with the car and it is clear that the straight 8 between 1949 and 1953 was made in two versions; one with solid lifters and one with hydraulic lifters. It sounds very likely that the hydraulic lifters were used with the Dynaflow as the cylinder head also was different (with higher compression). I have manual trans so most likely I have solid lifters. No wonder it is a little noisy and it is time to check the valve play. (The engine is in a 1940 Buick).

Jan

[Guffin]

Following up!

Some days ago I lifted the top cover and adjusted the valve play. Some valves had way to big gap. What a difference. Now the engine purrs nicely and is very quiet.

It was difficult to make the adjustments because I could not turn the engine by the fan belt. I had to adjust when the engine was running. Most problem was with the screwdriver. It jumped off the screw immediately. Instead I found out that it was more easy to use a steel plate in 90 degrees to the screw. That worked better.

Jan

[Guest 1964 225 Roadster]

There will be those who disagree with me on this, but -

I have some old Chevy straight 6's which, among other things, are noted as needing this procedure done regularly.

I have found that the easiest (best?) way to do this is to get the engine thoroughly warmed up (important), and then shut it off. Adjust those lifters/rockers that are not under pressure; then bump the starter, and adjust most of the other ones; then bump the starter and get the rest of them. Note - it is worth it to use a pencil and piece of paper to note which ones you have done, it is amazing how hard it is to remember after you move the engine!

Then, per the Book, run the engine for a few minutes, and do it again. Some of them always move a little.

I believe that trying to do it on a running engine results in significant error, because it is just too darn hard to do it. As you have seen, just a fraction of a turn of the slot results in a big difference in the setting. Not to mention the mess.

Also, if the engine has some miles on it, beware that the underside of the rocker doesn't have a concave wear pattern. This will give a false reading with the feeler gauge. I have found that it is worth it to remove the rocker assembly, and grind a new flat on the bottom of the rockers. Then, you get a true gap reading.

But it sure does make a difference when they all suddenly get quiet, doesn't it?

[Guffin]

I don't think there will be more error when adjusting on a running engine if you check all valves when finished and readjust those that don't pass. It should be more easy if you had three hands, one for the lock nut, one for the screw, and one for the feeler gauge. Next time I will ask a friend to help.

The wear on the rockers and top of valve stem gives, of cause, an error. This engine had only 300 miles on it so I was spared the trouble of removing the rockers.

Jan