Tried POR 15 Again....We'll see how it works

[BuickNut]

I did some more experimenting on my '86 Truck again with some POR 15....per the directions of using 2 coats of the base coat, and not as I previously did 1 base coat 1 topcoat. I also tried using it with their specific fiberglass matting and POR-15 filler/reinforcing putty for some body work to fill some holes. I would suggest using their fiberglass matting since it is much thinner/finer than stuff at the parts stores. <P>Their system seems logical and better than using fiberglass resin or bondo in that you put down the POR-15 paint (which acts as a rust preventer - hopefully this time it will after using 2 coats of the stuff), then while the paint is wet, put down the matting, and coat the matting with the paint. It does dry very hard (very suprising that it is as hard and firm as they said), but I still used the suggested putty to spread over it to give it added strength. We'll see it how works out through this winter. If anything, the putty is very good by itself for repairing small holes - seemingly better than bondo or fiberglass filler. Again, we'll see.<P>Question though - I've seen filler advertised in Eastwood that contains aluminum particles......is this a GOOD thing given when steel comes into contact with aluminum over time you get corrosion ??? <P>Obviously I'm from the Great White North to have to be concerned about this thing called RUST......lucky you guys in the south or west

[Guest imported_DaveZZZ]

Hi Buick Nut.

I was searching for info on POR 15, since I am debating its use. I have floorboards with no "real" rust in my 67 (that is, surface oxidation but no scale), and I'd like to do something about it to make sure that it doesn't progress. So that has me wondering about the effectiveness of it, and I saw that back in 2001 you were experimenting with it. How did it work out? Does anyone have praise or horror stories about the stuff?

Thanks

Dave

[Ron Green]

You should take your floorboards down to bare metal, clean and etch as POR-15 suggests. Never put over top of paint just serious rust. I have used POR-15 the past 2 winters on my Amphicar project while using the car in the summer. No problems. The prep is 90% of the work.

My master cylinder leaked a half pint of brake fluid on top of the bottom pan under the floorboard. the fluid set there over a week. I thought for sure this area would need repainted but the POR-15 was not lifted or blistered from the brake fluid (DOT 3). This has convinced me its good stuff.

[Guest imported_DaveZZZ]

Hi Ron. Thanks for the reply.

You say "just serious rust." What I have is more like brown spots. You can't flake any off. Actually pretty remarkable floors for a 67 convertible. Would you not reccomend POR 15 in this case? I just want to do something so that I won't be wondering if it is getting worse.

-Dave

[Ron Green]

POR-15 is made to go on bare seasoned metal or rust. In your case I would take it down to bare metal. Call and talk to them as they will probably tell you the same thing. POR does not like going over paint.

[Guest COMPACTBC]

Have you seen the posting on http://www.eastwood.com/aspfiles/images/Rust-Article.gif ?

It compares their Rust Encapsulator Vs POR-15. Rust Encapsulator wins hands down.

[Guest]

Dear Buick Nut,

I am in the final stages of repairing the lower rocker section of a 1991 GMC Sierra truck extended cab sectio both sides. Passenger side was completely rusted in a 2 x 3 inch area. The owners were going to pay $1500.00 to have the old sections removed and new ones welded in. I suggested an alternative. (By the way I live in IOWA, where we salt/brine our roads. Last fall I started by rmoving rust the best I could then applying POR 15 after treating the area with their "spray" product that converts rust and etches the metal.

I allowed the POR 15 to dry - remember this was on a sun available area so I knew I would need another coat plus. Then I placed a fiberglass mesh to fill the hole lest from chunked rust removal. Then I used the ALUMINUM FLECKED filler you were referring to.

I love that product. It is ultimately just filler like BONDO but it's consistency and hardness when cured were excellent. It spread on like butter. When the hardener is mixed in you don't have much time. You can cut back a little on the hardener and let it set up overnight.

Sand it using 40 to 60 grit then get it about where you want it using 220 grit with a 400 grit finish. I have a few small 'chips' where spot filler would be nice. I like this aluminum impregnated filler, it's not that expensive - I mainly love it because it spreads like butter.

Most of it was applied last October-November then this truck was subjected to several snowy-slushy-salty hits over the ensuing 4 months. RESULT: Only some surface rust where my primer topcoat (only to get through winter) was not too thick over bare metal. The filler stayed intact with no bubbling. I recommend long periods of curing for both POR 15 and the filler because that was my only problem. These folks I was doing this project for always wanted their truck back before I felt comfortable releasing it. Go slow, allow full drying/curing and the job will be more satisfactory but yes I have experience with this aluminum filled filler and I recommend it.

Bryan Moran

BCA 28571

1961 Buick Electra 2 door HT

[Ron Green]

The problem with Eastwood's rust encapsulator is that it is for over top of rust, period. It cannot go over good seasoned metal to prevent future rust. I wanted to use it however Eastwood talked me out of it. Seems kind of silly having to wait for rust to appear to be able to use the rust encapsulator.

[HurstGN]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you seen the posting on http://www.eastwood.com/aspfiles/images/Rust-Article.gif ?

It compares their Rust Encapsulator Vs POR-15. Rust Encapsulator wins hands down. </div></div>

Well, I read that article, hard as it was being a graphic. I noticed the author had some problems with the POR-15 after admitting he DID NOT follow the instructions correctly. I can't speak for him and his results, but I know the results I got.

I too didn't follow the instructions completely (reason forthcoming). I followed ALL the instructions to a T when I applied POR-15 to my 84 Riv. I had lots of rust under the radiator from some dirt blocking the drainage holes and my core support was soon to be doomed. So I cleaned, prepped and followed the directions to coat the core support properly. I took more from the can than I needed and thus the reason for non-proper prep before application. I coated the core support properly. Since I had some leftover, and couldn't put it back in the can, I coated the frame rails by the rad. They were degreased by the fact they were in the area when I cleaned. They were not prepped, not even wire brushed at all. Same for the steering box on the car. Well, I coated these since I had enough left. With a little left, I was on a search for something to coat....I found my cast iron vent stack tucked under a bush, exposed to the elements. Without even cleaning it, I coated it too. With about 2 brushfulls left, I spied the loose drain cover found in most garages. The one that's really rusty and nasty...no cleaning, no wire brushing...I coated it too. I originally thought the POR-15 was so thick, that I'd need a good bit to do this job, but it brushed on smoothly and went a long way as I later found out.

My results. The Riv showed no sign of any deterioration whatsoever, even with the fluids from under the hood contacting the surfaces. Three years after I had done the job, I took the car in for a repair, the repairman mistook the original (coated) steering box for a new replacement. I never saw any problem with the coating, on the core support, frame rails, or steering box. The car left my hands 6 years later.

The cast iron vent stack cover was outdoors 24/7 only shaded by a small bush. The coating lightened slightly in color, but never pealed, popped or flaked at all. This piece lasted 8 years outside with no problems till the vent was relocated and the cast iron piece no longer needed.

The drain cover in the garage. Looks like it did the day I coated it. It's been 10 years now. The coating has held up.

In my case, POR-15 worked. I also did some body work using the fiberglass mat, POR-15 epoxy putty, and the POR-15 coating to repair a 3" diameter hole that formed under my cars weatherseals, and to this day, the repair is still holding up fine. So, I like POR-15.

I will say, I am a little leary of Eastwoods "coating" products after having used their Cad-spray system, and not getting a result anywhere near a cad plated look. And using their original "metal blackening" system to find the metal just went from black to rust in no time at all. My complaint resulted in Eastwood telling me I had to apply the oil sealer monthly to the blackened parts to maintain the integrity of the finish. So, as far as their coatings go, I dunno. I do have their powdercoating system, but yet to use it. I have used their polishing and buffing compounds with excellent results. Yes, steel turbo covers can shine like chrome. But ya gotta keep up on that stuff, since it is still steel, and prone to rust when exposed to any moisture.

To each his own....just relaying my good results. I have no affiliation with POR-15, or Eastwood.

[Road Hawk]

I'm just a rookie on here, but not one where POR 15 is concerned. I have used it on numerous parts on my Monza Spyder project and am currently using the stuff on some rusted parts on my S10 Blazer. The 79 Buick Road Hawk will also get the same treatment to protect it from the Great White North (although it will never again see adverse weather as long as it exists). The stuff is bombproof, looks great (nice glossy look to it) but one guy said it right, the prep work is most of the effort. Do it right and you'll have no problems whatsoever. I highly recommend their stuff. I also use their Marine Clean extensively on just about everything, plastic, vinyl, greasy car parts, etc, it is simply awesom, nothing beats it, and it is water based so it leaves NO residue or film, it isn't greasy, oily or made with alcohol. The perfect cleaner really.

Bryan

79 Buick Road Hawk

80 Monza Spyder

80 Monza Spyder

91 S10 Blazer

http://roadhawk.homestead.com/roadhawk.html

[raleets]

I've been using POR-15 for about 10 years with EXCELLENT results. However, like others have stated, the prep is VERY important just like any other paint job, including Mom's kitchen.

One serious word of warning.......DO NOT get the stuff on your bare skin. If you do, you had better like the color because you're going to be seeing it for a long time! I always wear rubber gloves, long sleeved shirts with duct tape around the wrists, etc. Like one guy said, "it's bombproof" and you will play hell removing it with anything less than dynomite.

I painted the frame and tongue of a utility trailer with the stuff about 6 years ago. The trailer sits outside through Michigan winters and it looks like I did the job last week! 'Nuff said!

Bob Leets

Flint, MI

[Guest imported_DaveZZZ]

Hey Folks, thanks for the responses!

Given that there hasn' Been a single claim that the stuff is snake oil, I?m going to give it a go.

-Dave