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Rough Idle - Ideas?


tjenkins

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Hi Tom,,,

Try cleaning your IAC that you will find mounted around the throttle body. Clean the throttle body and MAF also as long as you are there. No real cost involved except spray carb cleaner, and it just might cure your problem. Put a rag under the IAC when removing the two mounting screws...they are stainless steel and are not magnetic if you unintentionally drop one/them.

Good luck,

Nic

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Guest wally888

For a period of time before my A/C clutch failed (frooze in on) I had a rough idle. Almost caught on fire. Must have also had a bad compressor causing a lot of drag on engine at idle?

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Yes, runs fine - anything above idle seems to be very smooth. Changed the plugs 6 months ago - Delco at factory setting.

Btw, the idle is rough, and I can feel it (sometimes a small vibration, sometimes really noticable vibration) in the brake pedal when depressed at a stop sign etc.

--Tom

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Guest wally888

Is very easy to end up w/ a bad wire connection at one of the rear plugs especially if metal insulators are installed. Did you raise hood in dark to look for misfire?

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"Delco at factory setting" - if you mean R44LTS gapped .060, that may be the problem, unless the secondary ignition is absolutely tip-top, the Magnavox system has trouble firing .060. I use RapidFire #3s gapped at .040 in mine. Now that I have a Delco ignition am tempted to try the #14s (.060) and see if there is a difference.

If the problem manifests mostly at idle, I'd pull plug wires at the coil with well insulated pliers and see if any make no difference.

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Guest Dolores

I don't know if this will help or not but here it is. My mechanic always felt my car just didn't run the way it should (rough idle). Just recently received a service engine code which indicated the camshaft sensor was bad. Had a 100,000 mile tuneup, new alternator, new timing chain, new camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor, new oil pan and gasket. Runs like a dream. I know you may say wow what did she not replace. Well, I trust my mechanic totally for all that work he only charged me $435 in labor and I know that's cheap.

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I had the same proble, a little while ago. I took it into the mechanic and got all the spark plugs and wires changed. when i drove it out of the place, it was much, much worse, so I took it back in. It ended up that the ignition coils were bad, so they had to be replaced. In the end, it was alittle expensive, maybe 150 or so, i don't quite remember, but it was well worth it.

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My 1988 Reatta has over 250,000 miles on it, and as the original owner, I have had an assortment of rough idle situations, caused by different things. The most elusive one was caused by a small quarter sized PLASTIC DISC, sandwiched in among the "assembly" that controls the idle. It was "frozen" in place and caused all the trouble, although at a quick glance it appeared fine. The mechanic brought the whole assembly out to show me and the service rep, but I couldn't tell you exactly what it was, but it was easily held in two hands. Once that part was replaced, the pesky idle was fine.

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