New And Have ?s About 55 Special

[Guest]

Hi guys this is my first post so I wanted to say hi and also I have a cuple of questions that I really need answered. Im looking at a 55 special but I dont know to much about it. I talked to the owner and he said it ran when he parked it and it looks super stright. But its a three on the tree and I was wondering how hard it would be to switch to auto and I was also wondering what the diferance is between the Tourback and the Riviera? The car is a orig 4 door with all the parts. Also is it wierd shifting on the collum like that? Thanks in advance

Chris

[The Old Guy]

I personally would much prefer the 3 speed stick. They are almost indestructable, and do not give the problems that you encounter with a Dynaflow ( mostly leaks)

[GMPARTSMAN]

I switched a '55 Special from Dynaflow to stick once. You may have a interference between the torque converter and the crankshaft because

crank is bored larger for the converter. Second, the torque tube flange

at the torque ball is bored in a different pattern than the Dynaflow

equipped vehicles. Also, the stick has a different gear ratio than the

Dynaflow equipped vehicles. I agree, keep the stick, it's rarer to see

one of them than the Dynaflow. P.S., you get used to the "whine" in first

and second gear, it's normal.

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> was also wondering what the diferance is between the Tourback and the Riviera? The car is a orig 4 door with all the parts. Also is it wierd shifting on the collum like that? Thanks in advance </div></div>

Chris,

"Riviera" is just Buick's marketing term for a pillarless hardtop (at this point in time, anyway). "Tourback" is likewise the marketer's term for a pillared sedan. As far as the manufacturing jargon is concerned: if your car is a 4-door hardtop Special, it's a Buick Model 43. If it's a 4 door sedan, it's a Buick Model 41.

Manual collumn shifters were invented for driver convienence in the first place. They're not weird to drive at all. The shifter is closer (at least in such a big car) that a floor shifter would be, and your arm doesn't extend as far to interfere with any potential center front seat passenger. They're not as direct as a floor shift, but if properly adjusted they function just fine in a road car application.

[6219_Rules]

Chris, I agree with Dave's point completely concerning the three on the tree. I have one in my '81 Chevy pickup and would really love to have on in the '47 Caddy. The hydramatic is a great transmission in this car but I still prefer to shift myself. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I think your '55 sounds like a decent deal. Do you have pictures? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Good luck on it! I know the folks here on the BCA forum will be a great help to you!

[Guest]

Thanks guys for the quick replies. The guy said he would take a thousand and hold it for me till I get the rest so im going to try to get a thousand together for it. Im wondering if anyone has any links for a clutch kit. I dont know if I need one but even if I dont ill probly get one anyway just to know that its done. Thanks again guys.

Chris.

[Judd]

Chris

NAPA or any clutch and gear shop should be able to get the parts you'll need. You should be able to remove a cover from the bottom of the bell housing and inspect the disk for wear if it is like a 56 stick car.

Judd

[Guest sintid58]

I have a 58 Special 4 door sedan with a 3 speed and I love driving it. It is much faster on the take off than a Dynaflow. There is some special lube I had to do when the clutch started to make some noise. I origanaly thought the thow out bearing was going out and then looked in the service manual and it said to make sure if the clutch got noisy that it was properly lubricated. That fixed it.

[GMPARTSMAN]

The '55 Special used a "crown" style clutch which has a spring surface that

looked like corrugated steel. The Century and Super used a conventional 3

finger Borg & Beck style unit. When I switched my Special over to Manual, I

sent the old pressure plate to a clutch shop and they found a 3 finger unit

with the same dimensions that I installed and used until I switched back

to a Dynaflow from a '56 after the syncromesh lost a bearing. You might look

into that instead of the original pressure plate.

[Guest]

Thanks guys for the help. Ill give you guys the update so far. Im only 19 and I don't make the best money in the world and what I want this thing for is a daily driver. As far as the body goes it is perfect. The interior needs some help and he said the car drove great when he parked it. But am I being realalistic (sorry for the spelling) by wanting this as a daily driver. Everyone I know says don't get it but I feel its something I just cant pass up. Please let me know what you guys think. I really feel I can make this a daily driver by converting to a alternator and other little things. If you guys know of anything else that would help me out in making this a daily driver please let me know. Thanks a lot guys.

Chris.

[GMPARTSMAN]

Chris, I'll try not to be too negative, but here it goes:

First, your idea about the alternator is great, did it to my '55

eighteen years ago, the battery life has improved, the lights do not dim

at idle with a full load of accesories on, the battery also recharges a

lot faster. To get it to work with the accelerator starter switch took some

trial and error wiring on the starter relay, and to get the correct load in

the wiring to get the alternator to charge.

Second, I would change the point ignition to a Pertronix for better dependability and a more efficient ignition system.

Third, I would look into changing the vacuum wipers to a retrofit electric

motor kit, I have not done this yet for my car, one of the things I will do

during this rebuild coming up.

Now, the big negatives are parts availibility, how long will your driver be down for when you are waiting for a part not available locally? Another one

is fuel mileage, it looks like you are on a tight budget, and that car MIGHT

get 12-13 miles per gallon around town. That is a lot of unaerodynamic steel

to move! Handling leaves a lot to be desired, they sure can be hard to park

in today's tight parking lots too. Plusses are a lot of room, it is hard to

lose it in a parking lot, you don't pass several cars that look like yours

each day. IF you can swing it, it is better to have this as a hobby car and a

lateer model car as a daily driver. Don't get me wrong, I have had my '55 since

1979, when I lived in the southwest I had no second thoughts about driving in on the open roads for a couple of hundred miles, hey I even got radared by the

N.M.State Police doing 95 in a 55 zone! Even now, I did not take the car out of

storage from late 2001 until June this year, with a fresh battery it started

without any problems and drove it round trip fifty miles each day for a two-day

meet, parked it for over a month and drove to the Nationals in Flint each day

for three days about 120 miles round trip each day at posted 70 (and then some).

It can be done, but it may not be easy. Like I said earlier, I don't want to

scare you off, but I would rather be a pessimist than a optimist in this.

At least in this forum you can get many opinions from other posters, and if you do get this car, which I think you will enjoy if you do, you will get assistance

with problems when they occur. Also, if you do get the car, get a factory shop

manual, read it and get familiar with it, it is a invaluble source of information.

Good luck however you go with this.

[Guest]

Thanks a lot GMPARTSMAN. I drove by it again tonight just to see it

I do work at a car parts store so it might help me out a little. Its pretty much all the new import aftermarket stuff witch im not into but we can get some oem type stuff. Also a buddy was telling me to have the heads rebuilt with some kind of steal valve setup so I don't have to put led in the tank every time I fill her up. Im also wondering if there is any way to get rid of the stock starter setup. Instead of having the starter solenoid on the carb and putting a regular starter like a new car. I think its little things like that and the alternator that would make starting and charging a lot better. I want to keep the overall appearance of the car bone stock but I just want the car to be up to date. Well thanks again for the all help. Let me know what you think about these ideas.

Chris.

[GMPARTSMAN]

Yes, you can eliminate the accelerator starter switch at the carburetor, taking the wires back through the firewall and install a pushbutton on the dash. You

will still need to rewire the relay on the left skirt though. Send me a private

message through here to me so as not to fill up the forum, and I will contact

you back.

[Judd]

Chris

Don't let any body mess with the valve seats they do not need to be changed from stock. I have 30,000 miles on stock heads with out of the pump regular gas only and no problems and you can machine into the water jacket and destroy the head installing hardened seats on a nailhead motor.

Judd

[Dave@Moon]

Chris,

A few more things to think about:

#1 Insurance. Trying to use an older car like this for a daily driver pretty much means that you're driving (as far as the car's concerned) uninsured. You can get liability and medical coverage for the car (although your age may make even this difficult), but as far as comprehensive and collision coverage is concerned you can forget it. The value placed on the car by the insurer will be nothing like what it's really worth for a regular driver's policy, and to get good collector car coverage you'll need to prove that you're <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> using the car for a daily driver. The same goes for any value that another driver's insurance company is going to put on the car. <span style="font-weight: bold">This means that <span style="font-style: italic">every</span> semi-competant Expedition or Silverado driver is a potential $600 grille/$1000 bumper/$500 hood crusher for your baby.</span> Can you afford that?

2. Brakes. This car has cast iron drums and a single reservior system. Also (I'm guessing) since it doesn't have the Dynaflo it probably doesn't have power assist either. Even with power assist, that braking system was considered inadequte when <span style="font-weight: bold">new</span>. I'd make this the first upgrade of <span style="font-style: italic">any</span> kind for this car (i.e. add power brakes, dual reservior, discs, etc.). (You'd likely be wanting to replace the whole system anyway if it's been sitting or not regularly used for some time.)

3. Unless you're pulling a trailer, hauling heavy loads, or making extended highway trips, skip the "It needed lead" arguments. The heads are fine if they're mechanically sound. If you rarely do do any of those things, that's what they make lead substitute for.

4. Floor Starter. If it's working, I'd leave it. It's a reliable system that adds charm to the car.

5. Alternator. If you live where you're going to be doing a lot of idling, creeping in traffic, or stop & go drivng this change makes sense. For most suburban to rural uses the generator system is more than adequate.

6. If it's rubber, it will leak. Whether it's over your head or holding the fluid inside the long neglected master cylinder, fuel or brake lines.

7. Seat Belts. Get 'em, period.

8. Rust. In daily use it rapidly will if it hasn't already if you live in winter conditions. This goes for the whole car or just a few very good pieces you're most concerned about.

As you can see from what GMPARTSMAN and I have posted, driving one of these cars daily is a daunting challenge. It's not cheap, but it can be rewarding (like any challenge). Just be prepared for the work and real costs as you make your decision.

[GMPARTSMAN]

Dave@Moon brought up a good point that I completely forgot about. INSURANCE!

The windshield in my '55 was hit on the freeway with a stone and cracked. Filed

a insurance claim with my classic insurance carrier. They paid it, but they were not very happy as it came to $950.00! On the average, we usually replace two windshields per year on the daily drivers. If you do not have full coverage on your collector car, a collision or comprehensive loss will be a financial

burden that you have to handle yourself. I do not know your state laws, but here in Michigan, we are a no-fault state. If, as a example, I am driving my car and you hit my car, and you are clearly at fault, I can only collect from you or your insurance carrier a MAXIMUM of $500.00, what Michigan refers to as mini-tort, the balance my insurance carrier is responsible for. If I don't have

full coverage, well I get the $500.00 if you have insurance or if you do not, are willing to pay me off. But, to make it more fun, I may have to take you to court to get my money, and you can guess how that goes. Anyway, think long and hard about this, as Dave@Moon brought up many more valid points.

Good luck.

[Guest]

Im really glad you guys are bringing up these points. I went there tonight just to see if I could go over there tomorrow and try to get her running and the guy was cool about it so tomorrow I will see what's going on with the running part of it. If I did get this thing I probly wouldn't drive it all the time but at least a couple days a week. I just don't want it sitting and collecting dust. Im kind of confused on why the starter has anything to do with the alternator. Can someone please explain. Is there anything I should look for when I get over there tomorrow? Thanks again guys.

Chris R.

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Im kind of confused on why the starter has anything to do with the alternator. Can someone please explain. Is there anything I should look for when I get over there tomorrow? Thanks again guys.

Chris R. </div></div>

Hey Captain,

Check this out re the alternator/push gas to start.

www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/PushGasToStartWithAlternator.htm

Another member says none of this is necessary. So I've probably only contributed to the confusion. Sorry. Personally I'd wait until the generator goes out or if you have a hard time keeping the battery charged then swap maybe. Believe me there will be MANY other things to spend your money on with these babes without having to look for something.

[Fr. Buick]

Chris:

I am just up the road in Placentia, with a '54 Special, and would be happy to give a hand. I might have some parts or info for you. Drove my '54 since high school, and loved every gas-guzzling mile.

Email directly or call: 714-396-9986

Doug Cook

[Guest]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Im kind of confused on why the starter has anything to do with the alternator. Can someone please explain. Is there anything I should look for when I get over there tomorrow? Thanks again guys.

Chris R. </div></div>

With a 1 wire alt there is NO need to mess with the starting system.

[Puka]

My 51 is a daily driver. I rebuilt engine and tranny. Rebuilt pretty much everything. Put radial whitewalls on it. Checked the entire undercarriage. Also make sure brakes are in perfect condition.

I have had some inconvienent downtime. But I guess that's the price you pay. Esp. probs with electrical and find reliable service for it. Finally did - and also use the Ultima battery (sold at Advanced Battery Systems in Santa Monica, CA - find them on web).

Also iinsured through AAA of Southern Calif. Got into a wreck (actually was parked and a drunk driver hit me) and they covered everything which was nice -- i.e. her insurance did - though I had AAA do the go-between business. It was about $3000 worth of damage.

The only pain in the ass was finding a new door and trim for the back drivers side. But I found one after much searching and it turned out cheaper than going through a body shop in LA for that particular repair.

Currently, I've got a slight Dynaflow leak and my damn odomoter's out.

So there's always something going on -- but so far, so good, for the most part.

I get about 10-13 MPG not bad not good. I don't drive it too much -- but live in a section of Los Angeles where I can walk or take the bus, which is good.

What made a huge diff. was the radials. And I am goign to get shoulder seat belts in front.

Good luck with the car. It can be frustrating but I've learned a lot. Especially with the help of this board.