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Asbestos & old/NOS brake pads


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Received shoes for my 41 Buick Super today from Kanter and boxes are marked "Danger: Asbestos, etc." Before I dismantle drums to replace, what precautions should I take to avoid breathing fibres and releasing old shoe debris into air? Thanks. swimmer5@erols.com

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Hey guys, thanks for all the great advice. I had a suspicion that I should be careful but I just needed that extra vote to convince me. Thanks again. These old cars are beauties and fun to have and work on but we need to also be careful at times and this seems to be one of those times. John

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The biggest mistake people used to make was blowing the dust off with the air compressor. I guess it was common practice before they knew what asbestos was. My dad even does it. I had to tell him he was being foolish.<P>There are three repairs on cars that I never do:<P>1. I don't blow brake dust.<BR>2. I don't weld gas tanks.<BR>3. I don't drink before popping springs out.<P>Oh yeah and I don't sit on airbags and set them off to see what happens. (Did you hear about that guy) rolleyes.gif" border="0

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Tomsriv: Sound advice. With all the budding authors in the antique car restoration field, you'd think that by now someone would have written a book on potential hazzards faced by the novice do-it-yourself restorer. Most of the books I've seen are very well done but by old hands that make everything seem easy. In preparation for my first restoration job (on my '41 Buick Super, I got about five or six books on everything from engine detailing to upholstery. Each is filled with pictures and texts that make the job look easy. But, as we've been discussing, there are jobs that can be potentially dangerous, either because of hidden health risks (like asbestos) or because of accidental errors like welding a gas tank or welding near a gas line, etc. Likewise, some of the front end linkages are connected under great pressure and not knowing how to dismantle these properly can be very dangerous, too. Like everything else, I'm sure once you do something you get to know all this and then do it better the next time out but it's that first time that could be your last. Maybe it's time for some genious to write "Car Restoring for Dummies!" I'd be the first on line to but that! John 41 Buick smile.gif" border="0

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Guest John Chapman

JJC,<P>I concur! I spent over half of my Navy career in aircraft maintenance, handling and safety. The maintenance instructions were explicit, step-by-step and filled with safety precautions. This was on top of sending maintenace personnel to school AND having repetitive safety training.<P>Despite that there were lapses of procedure and common sense that I'd guestimate caused over 95% of maintenance errors and injuries.<P>Your suggestion might just become a project....<P>JMC

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Guest John Chapman

Beyond BuickNut's recommendations:<P>Gloves: Use heavy duty disposable latex surgical gloves. Use new gloves everytime. They're cheap.<P>Mask filter: Don't use the disposable dust masks, use a half-mask air-purifying respirator. Use a particulate filter designed for asbestos and lead dust. See:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.northsafety-brea.com/conhardware.html#lead" TARGET=_blank>http://www.northsafety-brea.com/conhardware.html#lead</A> <BR> <A HREF="http://www.msanet.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.msanet.com/</A> <P>Commercial and/or automotive painting supply stores usually will have these.<P><BR>Wear long sleeves or better, a disposable painting suit.<P>Before opening up the brakes, tape down a brown craft paper drop sheet under the work area of the car (old brown shopping bags will work when cut and opened). On top of this, spread a thin layer of sweeping compound (this is either oil treated sawdust or wax chips and is available from a janitorial supply) to trap the dust.<P>Don't use a vacuum cleaner... Instead, use a disposable brush or broom to clean up brake dust and debris with the sweeping compound<P>Roll up all the dust and compound in the paper drop cloth and tape it in a bundle. Put bundle in a heavy plastic bag (yard bag will work well)<P>Dispose of all used gloves, mask filters, brush, broom, rags, etc. in the plastic bag. Seal, double bag, seal and dispose of in the trash... or better yet, if you're in an area with a hazardous waste collection program, take it there.<P>Shower immedialtely.<P>PS... you probably don't want to let the neighbors see you like this. Asbestos is one of those topics that gets folks in a needless sweat. You don't want Nosey Nellie calling the EPA... Discretion, proper handling and reasonable precaution will keep fibers out of circulation.<P>Cheers...koff, koff....hack!<BR>JMC

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Good point, I seem to remember the same thing. Kanter requires a core deposit on the shoes so I assume that they rebuild them when they get the old ones back. Otherwise, maybe NOS might be exempted from the no-asbestos rule. Hopefully, someone out there has the answer. jjc '41 Buick Super

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An asbestos fiber can hang in the air for DAYS. Filters are normally only good for a short period of time. When I dealt with asbestos we had to have several days of training, forced air resperators, sealed suits (thrown away afterwards), and showers when done. Oh yea, the entire area was sealed off and equipment covered.

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Come on guys....<P>It's not like you're gonna be workin' in an Asbestos factory, or livin' in a house that's insulated with it. You're just doin' a brake job. Probably won't need to do it again for another 10 or more years, as much as you drive that old hunk, right?<P>Just do it outdoors, with plenty of ventilation, and don't stick your face in the dust. <P>By the way, those old Asbestos linings work much better than anything the industry has ever developed. The only reason it was ever eliminated was because of the legislation caused by the health risk.<P>Jeez. What's the world coming to? When I was a kid and a thermometer got broken at school, we played with the mercury. Now when the thermometer gets broken, they close the school and send everyone home. <P>Do you "girls" wear gloves when you handle motor oil, too? The warning on the container sure makes it sound hazardous...........

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Don't get overboard. The only hazard there is the fact that the loose asbestos particles are hook-shaped, and once you inhale them, they remain in your lungs for good. It is not hazardous to your skin. So I would just wet the ground and surrounding areas to insure that the dust falling off won't travel everywhere.

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Thanks for all the great info. The response was tremendous and even a senior member from Finland reported in on this question. I think I know how to proceed now. John41

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My understanding of asbestosis is that the particulates are small and don't biodegrade, and your body can't break them down (ever had a wood sliver in your finger that you couldn't get out? Your body breaks it down). The asbestos goes into the lungs and stays there. Eventually, after enough exposure, the inside of your lungs is coated and your body can't absorb oxygen.<BR>But obviously you'd want to take precuations, unlike Real Man, who apparantly doesn't see a problem with doing things like welding on a full gas tank, painting a car with a lit (unfiltered) cigarette in his mounth or using a cracked cinder block in place of a jack stand while he replaces the coil spings--without some cry-baby coil spring compressor.

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With all the stuff out there that can do you damage....why not minimize (...and yes, maybe go a little overboard now and then...) on those things that you CAN minimize ? I used to be a real man and strip wire (...but only the thin ones of course..) with my teeth....oops, can you say root canal ? With all the cars I have, and all the work I do on them, I'm always knee or elbow deep in stuff basically all the time - so I try to cut the hazards as much as I can. Do what you feel comfortable doing.<P>Guys used to do brake jobs all the time with the asbestos linings and I'm sure they didn't die after the first few they did...but still, the stuff is hazardous and why take chances ? Hey, only my 2 cents worth...I wanna stay around driving my old jalopys for as long as possible grin.gif" border="0

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The brake dust from asbestos linings is no more hazardous than any other dust. <BR>The hooks on the fibers that cause the problem are ground off durings normal service. Do you see mechanics at auto repair facilities dress up like spacemen (the way they do when removing asbestos from buildings) when doing brake work? If it were that bad OSHA and EPA would be there enforcing and fining. Besides the dust is not confined to the inside of the drums and brake backing plate...it's everywhere...check the inside of your rims next time you rotate tires. Be careful with this and any dust but don't be alarmed and paraniod that this stuff is going to GETCHA!<BR>Willie

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