Cardone Reman Parts

[Roadster90]

I just replaced my calipers...Cardone. Just read another post on a 3 port Cardone power steering rack. Who are they?...Are the goods worth a pinch of puppy stuff? (am I still in the Dark Ages?) Is Cardone a subsidiary of someone else? My car is doing the same "bad" things but worse...calipers may be no good....

[Guest]

Just upgrade to 12 in rotors <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

[FlyByNite]

I guess THIS is them.

[Guest keller]

Cardone does not have a stellar reputation among the Turbo Regal / Grand National crowd for their rebuilt "Powermasters". Those cars have a pump/motor/pressurized-ball assembly to pressurize the brake system similar to that in the Reattas. Several nationwide chains offered a rebuilt unit for a very reasonable price, but chances of it working for very long are hit-or-miss. I think Advanced Auto Parts doesn't even carry it anymore.

When my Powermaster pump motor shot craps on the way to the GS Nationals, I finished the trip on "manual" brakes and ordered up a *new* Raybestos-labeled unit at Advanced for half the Buick dealer price (and roughly 3x-4x of the Cardone rebuilt unit price). I got to keep my core and have already got a replacement pump motor from the only such source if/when I want to rebuld the old unit.

Anyway...YMMV. I'm a little wary of the quality of the Cardone 'rebuilds'.

[Guest imported_REATAMANZ]

RAYBESTOS, "BRAKE PARTS" PURCHASED EQUIPMENT, DESIGN, FROM GENERAL MOTORS, AND ARE PROBABLY STILL USING SOME OF THE ORIGINAL SUPPLY BASE USED BY GM. MY UNDERSTANDING IS THEY MAY BE DISCONTINUING MAKING THE UNIT???

[Roadster90]

Is any one familar with the disc pad spacers that come with the front calipers on the A1 Cardone rebuilt units. The fellow who was helping (or actually did all the work) me replace the calipers used two spacers on the right side and one on the left because he stated the pads fitted to tight and wouldn't actually install on the left side...wondering if this is the reason I am experienceing the same pulling and nose diving to the left that was the reason for attempted (guessing) the replacement to begin with..In fact, upon the inital road test after replacement, the symptom were there immediately and more pronounced X 4 and the symptoms reoccur every time braking is attempted when cool or after car has been sitting for a while. Before the problem or symptoms were elusive and totally intermittant and not as pronounced..ALSO, when symptoms are present and brakes are applied lightly (lighter than normal braking)the car stops properly and in a straight line...go back to normal braking or slightly more pedel pressure and pulling activates again....really isn't anything else to replace mechanically / hydralic except the master cylinder...I have replaced the front brake lines, the accumulator, flushed system twice and now the calipers loaded (or came with) with pads. I disconnected the ABS per Barneys instructions to check the ABS. Yellow lite remained on and the problem is still there so I should ascertain that the ABS is functioning properly. Some onf you folks please share some of your thoughts on this with me PLEASE.......

Thanks,

Nic

[Shelby]

Did you replace the relays?

[Roadster90]

Hey Alan,

Yes, they were done long time ago, but even though I am no expert at all, I don't think they would come into play with this type of a problem. Is a relay not a work or a no work type of thing? I have a pulling and nose dive to the left type of situation....

[padgett]

Classic symptoms (pulling left) of something on the right not working. That bit about going straight on light braking is interesting & sounds like the front brakes are working properly.

When it pulls does the steering wheel try to turn itself also ? Am almost wondering if you have a rear caliper hanging. Not a real good test but if you apply the parking brake while moving, does it try to pull one way or lock one wheel first ?

Something is just dredging in the back of my mind that the rear brake application lags the fronts slightly. To confuse even more, with the TEVES there is no rear master cyl, just a right front and left front, the rear brakes are servo actuated (so if you lose boost, you have no rear braking). They are different.

[Shelby]

How long ago did you replace the relays ? They are pretty cheap to have a extraset around to eliminate that problem.

[Roadster90]

Hi Padgett,

Have not had any help this last week and intend to diagnosis or work on it again mid week this week. Tried the handbrake...stoped very little but kind of straight <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

I guess maybe will attempt another set of calipers...the set I replaced had the spacer shims that we may not have supposed to have used. And my friend used 2 shims on the right and only 1 shim on the left saying the pads would not fit if he tried to install both shims on the left (but right side fit with 2)...??? Anyway and I to understand you correctly in that there is a right and left side to the master cylinder for the front only brakes??? If so then I have still another possibility of a failed component???

Thanks,

Nic

[padgett]

That is correct, the "dual master cyl" is right front and left front - rear brakes are applied by magic. Looking at the diagram, the pdeal causes the booster piston to move forward which applies the two floating chambers, first the RF and then the LF. The "float" is supposed to equalize the pressure in the two chambers. My impression is that if the floating pieces stick, the RF will be applied first and it will pull to the right.

That said, the single piston disk brake is essentially self adjusting, I do not know what the shims would be for. Might understand in the back where a screw applies the parking brake but not the front.

Last I looked the price of a remaned TEVES assembly from Prior was $420 exchange.

If had a choice for my 88, would probably go with the 2nd (1989) design.

[Tinker]

Try inspecting the lower control arm where it bolts ro the frame. I had the tip of that ¾ inch rod, I think it's called a "reaction rod", snap off and it produced the same symptoms you describe. That rod prevents lateral motion of the control arm. When you brake, the arm will try to move to the rear and if it's not held properly, will throw the front end alignment way out of whack. When you accelerate, the rod moves back to it's original position and pushes against the frame to propel the car forward normally.

Just a thought... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

Thanks for the good thought Tinker. Only problem with the theory....I just had two rods, all 4 struts, and 4 tires replaced plus alignment...had a giant bill - they better not has missed something like that <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Both a friend and myself have also checked everything under the entire car. It just appears that I am a glutten for punishment, and a queer for totally weird car problems and women <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.