Aussie Scruffy Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Hi again, Posted a while back under "Aussie Scruffy" asking to ID a Continental engine. Got some great advice, no one in Australia knows much about these engines. I have cut and lapped valve seats now can anyone advise correct valve clearances? Think it's a "Red Seal" engine 3.375 inch bore with cast iron pistons. Also ignition timing please. Any advice appreciated, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Do you know what car, truck, or other the engine came from? It might make a difference. Also, what model of engine? If I had to guess, .006 on the intakes and .008 on the exhaust seems a pretty common figure for flathead engines. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 (edited) Ignition timing is going to depend on whether it has a working mechanical advance and what it's range of advance is. The engine may be setup to use a manual retard lever for starting. If so, set it to the retard position (direction of rotor rotation) In either case best to start by having engine on #1 TDC and set it so the points open JUST after TDC. Mark it! Once it is running you can time it by "ear" by setting the engine running 1200-1500 RPM and turning the distributor to the point of highest speed, then retard until you can just barely notice it slowing. Now you know start and run settings. Hopefully they will be the same. If starting with a hand crank it is VERY important that the initial timing not be before TDC. I like Rusty's valve clearance numbers Edited February 26 by Oldtech (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I like the idea of timing to TDC for starting. Once you get it running, a vacuum gauge is handy for adjustments - set the timing to maximize vacuum. That will usually give you best power and economy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 28 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said: I like the idea of timing to TDC for starting. Once you get it running, a vacuum gauge is handy for adjustments - set the timing to maximize vacuum. That will usually give you best power and economy. I agree except I was always taught to get maximum vacuum and then back it off a couple of degrees so you do not need to worry about spark knock. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68LTD Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 The 006 / 008 are likely good, but I would recommend starting with .010/.015, better to be loose than tight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 (edited) Aussie Scruffy has not been back since the original post. Later.... in another post he gives more details and pictures. The engine is a Continental in a modified Rugby chassis. Rugby trucks were made by Durant, and Durant used Continental engines, the Star and Rugby used 4 cylinder engines. So engine may be Rugby or Star, made in August 1928 If the engine is the same as a Star 4 cylinder, valve settings are .006 intake and .006 exhaust, set hot. Edited February 27 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Scruffy Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Thank you so much Rusty OToole you have given me exactly what I wanted. Engine has Bosch impulse drive magneto with manual adv retard control. Have to make a drive coupling between magneto and water pump drive shaft. Engine has a custom external oiling system taking oil supply rear lhs block thrust 2adjustable needle valves to front cover area. Suspect the front gear train suffered from lack of oil supply? Can you advise why this was done? Thanks again for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Aussie I wish I could help but I don't know why I do half the things I do, let alone some bush mechanic half a world away 90 years ago. If it was mine I would change it back to the way the factory made it, if possible. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 You might find better experts at the Durant Motors Automobile Club https://dmacweb.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 (edited) When valve gap that small is given, more than likely it is for an engine that is up to running temp., not cold. Edited February 28 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 4 hours ago, Mark Gregush said: When valve gap that small is given, more than likely it is for an engine that is up to running temp., not cold. The chart of tune up specs above, gives the gap with the note "H" which I presume means Hot. If it was my car I would set the valves cold and recheck when hot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now