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1946 Buick Super Model 51


Robuick46

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On 8/3/2024 at 8:27 AM, Robuick46 said:

@Neil - luckily I searched the previous owner’s boxes again and found the remaining freeze plugs.

Excellent!  This will save you a lot of time and hassle later on.

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I was with my brother at a US Car meeting in Ulm and made a couple of photos. There were no prewar cars and only a few cars that I would call vintage. I’m a bit selfish and only took pictures of cars that I liked.
I saw only two Buicks at the meeting.
Man, I’m looking forward to my Buick being ready to drive again. There are a lot of current US cars at the meeting and you feel more like you are on the sales parking lot of a dealer. Personally, I don’t like that very much.

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Sorry that I defaced the Buick forum with third-party products. But maybe you are interested in which US cars drive around Germany.

 

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21 hours ago, Robuick46 said:

Sorry that I defaced the Buick forum with third-party products. But maybe you are interested in which US cars drive around Germany.

No problem at all. I'm always interested in what cars turn up at various meets, particularly in Europe. Thank you for posting the photos.

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Hello Robert,   I am just now seeing this message, so welcome to the Club.   

 

 That is a drop-dead gorgeous 46 Super.  Like you, I am no mechanic, but grew up in Detroit in the 60’s, with a Father that could and did repair everything.  So I know that with patience and ingenuity, and most of all the mentoring and advise from members who are so expert, they can tell you which year model a windshield wiper are is from, we can learn nearly anything.  I picked up a 41 Super Convertible (model 56-C) in May and could not have made the progress I have without people like Ken Green, Neil Morris, Daves1940Buick56S, and many more Buick lovers.

Clearly you have a mechanical mind and the courage to dive into the repairs or you would not have gotten so deep into the engine.  Thank you so much for the photos posted, as I believe there is some work needed on my passenger door latch, & your photos will help. 

 

Your beautiful 46 with that unmistakable In-line 8 smooth sound will turn as many heads in Germany as it does in North America.  I call it “Smiles Per Mile”.  Had a recent parade here in Boerne, TX, and the several retired guys in their new Corvettes and high-end Mercs, and even a Ferrari.  The 41 Buick Convertible with granddaughters tossing candy to kids along the parade route stole the attention away at the end of the show.   I your Buick will be a great source of pride, fun, and thousands of smiles.

Keep the photos and progress of your work coming.  We all learn from posts like yours.

 

All the BEST!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

In preparation for the replacement of the frost plugs and other projects where you have to drain the cooling water from the engine block, I wanted to install a drain valve.  I discovered a plug that was already installed, which I turned out, but unfortunately no cooling water came out.

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On closer look I got the impression that the engine block is closed at this point.

 

I need your help!
Now the question to the professionals, do I have to drill a hole at this point so that I can drain the block?

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Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
On 8/11/2024 at 3:08 AM, Ken Lobsinger -Rejuvenated said:

Hello Robert,   I am just now seeing this message, so welcome to the Club.   

 

 That is a drop-dead gorgeous 46 Super.  Like you, I am no mechanic, but grew up in Detroit in the 60’s, with a Father that could and did repair everything.  So I know that with patience and ingenuity, and most of all the mentoring and advise from members who are so expert, they can tell you which year model a windshield wiper are is from, we can learn nearly anything.  I picked up a 41 Super Convertible (model 56-C) in May and could not have made the progress I have without people like Ken Green, Neil Morris, Daves1940Buick56S, and many more Buick lovers.

Clearly you have a mechanical mind and the courage to dive into the repairs or you would not have gotten so deep into the engine.  Thank you so much for the photos posted, as I believe there is some work needed on my passenger door latch, & your photos will help. 

 

Your beautiful 46 with that unmistakable In-line 8 smooth sound will turn as many heads in Germany as it does in North America.  I call it “Smiles Per Mile”.  Had a recent parade here in Boerne, TX, and the several retired guys in their new Corvettes and high-end Mercs, and even a Ferrari.  The 41 Buick Convertible with granddaughters tossing candy to kids along the parade route stole the attention away at the end of the show.   I your Buick will be a great source of pride, fun, and thousands of smiles.

Keep the photos and progress of your work coming.  We all learn from posts like yours.

 

All the BEST!

Hello Ken, thank you for your kind words.
I am thrilled how you support each other in word and deed. That is something very special, I hope you know that.
In Germany we are missing the Buick experts and if I have problems I am lucky that the members of this great forum help me.

 

Of course, I am happy to be able to help other Buick enthusiasts with my experiences and pictures, because many things are easier and you can prevent mistakes or even worse broken parts. What could be better than a step by step instruction with appropriate illuminations, such as for example for a carburetor rebuild.

Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Neil Morse gave me the advice I should renew the freeze plugs, since I just dismantled the intake- and exhaust manifold anyway and you never get there better than now. On previous photos you can see that one freeze plug was already renewed at some point.
Because a suitable tool costs about 70 € and I probably never need it again, I have built myself a suitable auxiliary tool. I used a stable angle (for easier holding) and a large and strong magnet that holds the frost plug in place while I hit the angle. I screwed the magnet to the angle with another plate.

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Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

I watched a few videos on YouTube about how to best remove freeze plugs. The simple version (if this works) is to place a bolt on one side close to the edge and hammer it until the plug turns and then pull it out with pliers.

 

...easily didn’t want to work.

 

So I went to version two, drill a hole in the freeze plugs to turn it out with a lever-like hook tool (I didn’t take a photo). I have unfortunately only enlarged the hole. I could press the plug from above with a chisel. If you then hit the compression with the chisel from the front, the plug will eventually start to turn or it will move inward. With the hook tool I hit the plug again to the outside. After a few times in and out, I was able to turn the plug with the pliers. Once the plug has been released, a water pump wrench works amazingly well for turning out.

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...one still has to go out.

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With a telescope magnet I removed some metal mud.
I am quite satisfied, I have seen dirtier engine blocks in other reports.

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Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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Hi Rob:

 

Your core plug installation tool looks great!

 

With regard to the blocked drain hole, if you look at my "Me and My Buick" thread at the post beginning on February 25, 2022, you will find a whole discussion of this issue.  (I cannot post a link to the right post because I'm on a trip right now and I can't figure out how to post links using my phone.)  It's a little hard to see from the photos you posted what is obstructing that opening, but as you will read on my thread it is quite common for the drain to be blocked by crud that has accumulated at the bottom of the water jacket.  Anyhow, take a look at my thread and see it's helpful.

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Another tip from Neil was to use gasgacinch for gluing/sealing the frost plugs.

gasgacinch.jpg.2da1e22579110d7b5119e142b16d23bf.jpg

 

I have cleaned and degreased the openings of the engine block.
Then I tapped the frost plugs in with my mounting tool.

The middle plug was the most difficult, as the exhaust pipe was in the way. Now a little more paint on it and I can continue with the assembly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

I must admit, I had a bit of a stomachache before the next step.
I tried to get the hole of the drain screw free in different ways. First I used a bent nail to mill the hole, it broke immediately.
Then I used a wood screw, which I had cut off the head, that did not work either. The best result I have made with a slowly rotating metal drill. But you have to be very careful, because it pulls the drill right into the channel, so I stopped immediately. After changing the direction of rotation and turning out the drill, the cooling water immediately came out of the block. I used the wood screw again (but left turning) to "mill" the channel. I used to pour fresh water into the cooler to rinse the block, but I guess I could repeat this endlessly.

 

Thank you for your help.
After reading Neil’s contribution on this subject, I decided to fix the problem. I have always been annoyed about the mess, which is caused by the discharge of the cooling water over the radiator hose, when the water runs over the front axle.

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I ordered some parts to install a drain valve. I will report about it.

 

Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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When gluing the studs on the valve body there was a mishap.

The Exhaust Valve Body To Manifold Ring is broken.
I ordered a steel pipe with the appropriate dimensions at Ebay and had it produced in the company where I work.


...and another replacement ring, just in case.

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A little rework and it fits.

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Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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And the story continues...

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I ordered gaskets from Remflex, ...

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...but the valve body to intake manifold gasket does not fit.

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I cut the gasket at an angle of 45 degrees and glued it together with exhaust mounting gum.

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If I had known that before, I would have ordered the appropriate seal from Old Buick Parts.
You can never have enough parts at hand, whether spare parts or tools.

 

Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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I removed the remaining gasket from the engine block and cleaned the mounting surface. I painted the freeze plugs with engine enamel.

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Installed with the new parts such as studs, brass nuts and intake rings from Old Buick Parts. The long studs I bought at Ebay and painted it before assembly.

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On the packaging of the Remflex gasket it says that you don’t need longer studs, but since I have longer brass nuts, it makes sense. For testing purposes I used only normal nuts.
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Standard length of the studs is 2", so 2 1/2" studs should be sufficient.

Unfortunately I did not find the 2 1/2" ( grade 8 ) on the internet, so I ordered the 3".
Maybe I can use thick washers or I would have to shorten the studs appropriately. The last stud is too short, too. It ends at the bracket.

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That means, once again wait for the parts to come.

Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, Andrew_Latvia said:

Very good job, as always!👍 The only thing, that I maybe  wouldn't want do, is splicing the wrong gasket between intake and exhaust manifolds. Hope, that the exhaust paste gonna hold.🤞

Thank you for your appreciation.
Adjusting the seal was an emergency solution and the correct gasket is included in the next order.
We’ll see if I’ve done well.

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Back to the beginning.
I got the 3" studs yesterday and had to shorten them to the correct length before assembly.

I have installed the intake manifold rings with the separation downwards. They can be "deformed" horizontally, so that the manifolds can expand and contract again.

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Now everything looks like I imagined it.

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I polished the brass nuts before assembly. It makes beautiful bling bling for the eyes.

Installed the thermostatic coil and anti rattle spring.

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Edited by Robuick46 (see edit history)
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