New battery nominal power otherwise but no crank

[Deanoko]

Annoying situation.  

Here's the scenario.  

64 Riv (4 note horns)

I replaced the aged agm battery yesterday with a brand new 27F.

Also replaced the battery cables and routed them per the 4 note horn engineering change.

All other wires went right back where they were on the horn relay post.  They are all tight. 

All accessories work fine as do lights and horn.

When I turn the ignition key to crank I get nothing.  The amp and cold lights brighten when I do this and the hot light illuminates.  They dim to normal and the hot light extinguishes when I release the key.  

There is no starter or solenoid activity - silence. 

Jockeyed the transmission selector and also tried it in neutral - nothing.

I have not tried to jumper the starter.

Anyone have any ideas?  Seems like it should crank right up but doesn't. 

Oh,  also put a battery jumper box on the battery,  which had no effect. 

Thanks. 

 

[1965rivgs]

  There is a purple/yellow two wire connector in the area of the junction block on the drivers fender well. Use a jumper wire from the hot post of the battery to the purple wire and see if the starter cranks. Be sure to put the jumper wire to the starter side of the connector. This is a test of the starter, basic cable connections and battery that shouldn't take more than a minute.

Tom Mooney

Edited September 23, 2023 by 1965rivgs (see edit history)

[Deanoko]

Yes, jumpering that connection engages the starter, so looks like maybe an ignition switch issue or something between that yellow purple connection and the switch?  Sigh…

[XframeFX]

8 minutes ago, Deanoko said:

maybe an ignition switch issue or something between that yellow purple connection

Well upstream of that connection is the Shifter Backup/neutral/start a switch. Have you tried starting in neutral or various shifter positions? Backup lights come on in R?

 

Design has Idiot Lights come on in "Start" as a lamp test.

 

Good Luck!

[1965rivgs]

5 hours ago, Deanoko said:

Yes, jumpering that connection engages the starter, so looks like maybe an ignition switch issue or something between that yellow purple connection and the switch?  Sigh…

  Use a test light or better yet a Volt meter at the purple wire (other side of the connector) while a helper engages the start position of the ignition switch. You should see nearly full battery voltage.

  If so, is it possible you had the connection apart while in the process of changing the battery and the connector was not fully seated?

  If not, and while your helper still engages the start position of the ignition switch, and after you have reconnected the purple/yellow connector, move the wiring harness around at the bulkhead connectors to see if that engages the starter ("wiggle test").

  If not, test the circuit from the ignition switch forward until the point which you lose voltage on the starter engagement circuit.

  As in any electrical circuit, focus on switches and connections.

Tom Mooney

[Deanoko]

Thanks Tom.  Nothing was moved when I changed the battery, beyond just swapping the cables for CARS new ones.  I’ll just start testing, running back toward the switch.  
Good info on the lights test John.  Never noticed that before.  I did try various nudges of the shift lever including neutral.  
2 steps forward, then 1 back.

[Deanoko]

Problem solved!  Don't ask me how, when or why, but I found the F bulkhead connection unplugged and dangling under the dash!!  Amazing how well the electricity flows when the wires are connected!

Thanks for all the suggestions boys! 

[EmTee]

Wow - how'd that happen?  There should be a bolt through the center holding the halves together!

 

[Deanoko]

It wasn't that connector.  It was the right hand white vertical bulkhead connector which merely clips into place.