SAFE TOWING

[Packard enthus.]

Floating around the Internet are videos of towing tragedies....for example.. - a beautiful "mint" Phantom 3 Rolls destroyed by poor towing technique. 

 

This discussion applies primarily to those of us who do "bumper" tows.

 

The heavier the vehicles being towed,  compared to the weight of the tow vehicle,  the greater the potential for disaster if the appropriate allowances are not taken care of.

 

Without using fancy physics terms,  there is the phenomena of "sway" getting worse and worse as the driver tries to correct. The more the driver tries to stay ahead of the "sway" by correcting, the worse the condition gets, until there is an accident.

 

The most effective (and usually the most expensive...!) way to engage in safe towing is to have a REALLY HEAVY tow vehicle!   In my own case, I have a recent model 3500 series GMC "long-bed crew cab".    Weighs around 7,800 lbs. (that's a so-called "one ton" truck).    Towed vehicles are about 10,000 lbs  (either my 6,000 lb. Packard Twelve in its Cargo Express "box" trailer,  or our 28 Ft. Bayliner cabin cruiser on its trailer).    Stable towing even at absurd speeds!

 

What can you learn from this?  Again, the heavier the tow vehicle compared to the weight of the vehicle being towed, the less likely the "sway" will be a factor.   

 

I TRIED  in past years towing the above towed vehicles with a 2500 series Suburban.   That's basically a 3/4 ton truck.   Without "sway bars" its  "sway"   got vicious at anything above 50 mph.   Yes, it was a nuisance having to engage those sway bars every time I hitched up, but that did allow reasonably stable towing at speeds up to...oh..say 65 mph.

 

Bottom line - PLEASE - when towing those trailers loaded with our beloved collector cars........

1)  keep your speeds down!   Think about stopping distances as well as the "sway" issue..    And the  slower you tow, the less likely you are going to encounter a "sway" that gets out of control.

2)  use the heaviest tow vehicle  (in proportion to what you are towing)  you can get your hands on!)

3)  if you have ANY question about stability at highway speeds....use any of the "sway bars" avail. from numerous manufacturers.

Edited September 19, 2023 by Packard enthus.
I's gote to learn how to speeel..! (see edit history)

[Gary_Ash]

Having the right amount of tongue weight on the hitch helps to avoid the tail wagging the dog.  The recommended amount is 10-15% of the loaded weight of the trailer.  With my 2700 lb aluminum trailer and 2500 lb car being hauled, I shoot for 600 lbs on the hitch.  I bought a Sherline tongue weight scale to measure the weight.  I usually just crank down the trailer jack so the foot rests on the scale and the hitch is clear of the ball to read the weight close enough.  It's on Amazon for $150.

 

Once I found the right place to put the car in the trailer for the correct tongue weight, I marked on the floor where the tires should stop.  I also have a quality electric brake controller that has an interface to the Ford dash panel.  No wagging on my Ford Expedition XL (6000 lb empty and dry)!

 

[Packard enthus.]

Gary has the ideal situation - his tow vehicle weighs as much as the vehicle being towed!

 

For those of us not so lucky,  I recommend the steps suggested earlier.

[Trulyvintage]

Every tow vehicle is different.

Every trailer is different.

Every vehicle on or in a 

trailer is different.

Every driver towing

a trailer is different

 

There are no common solutions.

There is common sense which

you have or you don’t.

 

Jim

[RustyTinman]

On 9/19/2023 at 1:53 PM, Packard enthus. said:

Floating around the Internet are videos of towing tragedies....for example.. - a beautiful "mint" Phantom 3 Rolls destroyed by poor towing technique. 

 

This discussion applies primarily to those of us who do "bumper" tows.

 

The heavier the vehicles being towed,  compared to the weight of the tow vehicle,  the greater the potential for disaster if the appropriate allowances are not taken care of.

 

Without using fancy physics terms,  there is the phenomena of "sway" getting worse and worse as the driver tries to correct. The more the driver tries to stay ahead of the "sway" by correcting, the worse the condition gets, until there is an accident.

 

The most effective (and usually the most expensive...!) way to engage in safe towing is to have a REALLY HEAVY tow vehicle!   In my own case, I have a recent model 3500 series GMC "long-bed crew cab".    Weighs around 7,800 lbs. (that's a so-called "one ton" truck).    Towed vehicles are about 10,000 lbs  (either my 6,000 lb. Packard Twelve in its Cargo Express "box" trailer,  or our 28 Ft. Bayliner cabin cruiser on its trailer).    Stable towing even at absurd speeds!

 

What can you learn from this?  Again, the heavier the tow vehicle compared to the weight of the vehicle being towed, the less likely the "sway" will be a factor.   

 

I TRIED  in past years towing the above towed vehicles with a 2500 series Suburban.   That's basically a 3/4 ton truck.   Without "sway bars" its  "sway"   got vicious at anything above 50 mph.   Yes, it was a nuisance having to engage those sway bars every time I hitched up, but that did allow reasonably stable towing at speeds up to...oh..say 65 mph.

 

Bottom line - PLEASE - when towing those trailers loaded with our beloved collector cars........

1)  keep your speeds down!   Think about stopping distances as well as the "sway" issue..    And the  slower you tow, the less likely you are going to encounter a "sway" that gets out of control.

2)  use the heaviest tow vehicle  (in proportion to what you are towing)  you can get your hands on!)

3)  if you have ANY question about stability at highway speeds....use any of the "sway bars" avail. from numerous manufacturers.

Totally agreed

[Turbinator]

Safety first and foremost. Im changing out tires on an 18’ dovetail with ramps and 4 wheels. The tires show tiny cracks around the circumference right in the groove. The tires have plenty of tread, but it is time.

im going for an 8 ply 205/75/15 R trailer tire. The tire is D load rated. The 4 tires are rated to carry 10000lbs. I balance my load so its as easy as it is going to be to tow.

im lucky the trailer tracks straight. Im surprised it does not jump, wobble, or sway. Im towing with a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD. Im hauling a 4000 lb 63 Buick Riviera.

Im no pro, but i had experience driving hay and feed straight job trucks as a boy.

My lessons learned are go the speed limit and pay attention with escape route plan all the time. Load correctly with proper balance and tie down technique.

my car is a driver but sometimes I need to haul the car because of plans.

[R Walling]

 Don't think about how much weight you can tow, worry about how much weight you can stop!

[Charles Hipp]

I attended trailer towing class at an AACA event years ago and I never forget the instructor saying remember this " 65mph max and 65psi " will prevent blow-outs.

[Barney Eaton]

Brake fluid....especially in the tow vehicle.    You might experience brake fade that you just brush off as overuse but 

you may be boiling the brake fluid.    Several key points.

The minimum boiling point (SAE) for DOT 3 (Dry boiling point) is 401 F ..... 2% moisture will lower the boiling point 100 F

Depending on the conditions where you live.... high humidity areas can cause the fluid to absorb that 2% in one year..... and it does not stop there. 

Going to DOT 4  helps some with the dry boiling point at 446 F but it will absorb moisture at the same rate as DOT 3 

DOT 5 (silicone base) does not absorb water BUT cannot be used on vehicles with ABS .... the activation of the ABS solenoids will aerate the fluid and cause issues.

DOT 5.1  is a high temp petroleum based fluid that has a dry boiling point of 518 F

Note   some manufactures fluid exceed the SAE minimum boiling point and give you some extra cushion. 

You can purchase inexpensive testers that will indicate the moisture content.   If you have more than 2% moisture 

you should be out changing your brake fluid NOW