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1940 Lincoln Master Cylinder


West Peterson

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West,

I have them --- New American made --- as long as you are not concerned about Original FOMOCO...

 

If you are interested in having an original Master Cylinder sleeved and rebuilt, I have a far better outfit for you ---

Who does stainless steel sleeving... white post is only qualified to do brass sleeving (2nd best) ......

 

You can call me --- 516 - 485 - 193five --- and, of course, I will be at HERSHEY.....

 

Craig.....

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  • 1 month later...

There are probably many different ways to approach this, but this one worked well for me. My brakes were perfectly fine on this ‘41, but when I was young, I was very nearly killed due to catastrophic failure of a brake line in a single system, and I don’t feel comfortable without the backup. I use mine as a driver; I might think twice if I thought about showing it. The two major pieces you’ll need are:

1) 3 bolt to two bolt MC adapter (available from several vendors)

https://www.millworkshotrod.com/collections/brakes-and-clutch/products/early-ford-dual-master-cylinder-adapter-only-39-41-ford-passenger-and-light-truck-46-52-pick-up

IMG_0416.webp.9520db509f0a0ceaadbbf6f442287ff3.webp

2) Master cylinder for ‘67 - 70 Mustang with manual drum brakes (Dorman M73323 or equivalent)

 

Note that the original cylinder has a 1-1/16” bore, and the new cylinder is 1”, so there will be slightly more pedal travel, but it’s negligible. You’ll get slightly less effort for the trade-off. There are no dual 1-1/16” cylinders to my knowledge. Here they are compared, and notice why it is folly to ever paint a master cylinder 😀
IMG_0235.jpeg.87e923fd10739781dc7aaf659251dfc5.jpeg

Once you’ve pulled the existing MC, and removed the pushrod, notice that you will need to do some minor cutting on the new cylinder if you want to retain the stock mounting studs (see highlites in blue below). You’ll need a good carbide die. You could replace the stockers with bevel-headed studs, and reverse their direction, but I didn't. 
IMG_0251.jpeg.92e823456e5c809e07224fca86d74b0c.jpeg

Once you’ve mocked it up, you’ll need to mark the floorboard and cut it for a new larger access door. This is perhaps the most painful surgery. I used a ready-made 4”x 6” ABS door that is/was intended for drywall access.
IMG_0255.jpeg.94f77a4043f60713c59998d7fc5abb75.jpeg

The stock pushrod has enough adjustment to make it long enough to give you about 1/16” free play. 
IMG_0232.jpeg.349c4289f14d2c1c6831ba74631e5a08.jpegFinally, you’ll need to do some tube bending, double flaring and the a variety of tube nuts for adapting to the new MC ports. Everything you’ll need is off the shelf at your local parts or hardware store, and you’ll be able to use the stock brake light switch. 

The 3 way fitting on the frame originally diverted the single fluid input to front and rear. Now it feeds the rear brakes only, and the front brake outlet now controls the brake light switch:

IMG_0252.jpeg.69235d7dcaa0d5fa8d7f00a65419bda6.jpegThe line to the front brakes can be bent around to now go to the port closest to the pushrod (which you can see in picture 3)

 

And that’s about it. About a day’s work, but one less thing to worry about.

 

 

 

Edited by Lee H (see edit history)
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On 9/13/2023 at 7:03 PM, mobileparts said:

West,

I have them --- New American made --- as long as you are not concerned about Original FOMOCO...

 

If you are interested in having an original Master Cylinder sleeved and rebuilt, I have a far better outfit for you ---

Who does stainless steel sleeving... white post is only qualified to do brass sleeving (2nd best) ......

 

You can call me --- 516 - 485 - 193five --- and, of course, I will be at HERSHEY.....

 

Craig.....

Hi Craig, can you tell me who does stainless steel lining of the '41 Lincoln master cylinders?   Thanks, Ray

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