L.E.Butcher

Jim, I have been holding off to see if anyone else would jump on , but I guess not. I restored a '38 LZ Conv. Coupe , owned it for about 46 years and sold it back at the end of 2019. I did not need to replace the floors and I have gone through all of my pics and cannot find one that shows where the clutch spring (PN 86H-7523B) connects other than the small "eyelet" on the lever( PN 86H-7511) . Perhaps it was a small hole in the floor? Did you replace the floor? I would attach the spring on the lever and pull back just enough to take slack out and spot weld a small clip . No one will ever see it. If you wish contact Colin Spong, he lives on your side of the "pond". 1937lincoln@talktalk.net He will know! Good Luck, Larry

Well, Charlie, Anyone get in touch with you to help you with your top installation ? If you are in the "Zephyr Club" there is a directory of members. Someone may live in driving distance of you and would allow you to take pictures of their car. I have used this method many times. "E" me some evening after 7PM. Eastern time. I live in Maryland. My "E" is larry1938Zephyr@gmail.com Perhaps I can help you somehow , Larry

Hello Charlie, I too had a 1942 Continental Cabriolet; Vin . H131762, from 1965- 1971. Never finished it. Alan Whelihan finally ended up with it. He may have been 4th. or 5th owner since me. He sold it about 2 or 3 years ago- BEAUTIFUL CAR! I never got to the top work , but it would be good idea to obtain from our Zephyr Club a copy of "Authenticity Manual" and the "Way of the Zephyr' Index. One of the vendors or advertisers on this club website should be able to furnish these. The big thing to remember is if you do not have a readymade kit , don't let a trim shop decide what the top should look like. This a "3 pc. top"; which means to me , center panel, 2 side panels, no tack rail above rear window and also no tack strip above header bow above windshield. Contact Richard Cole or Bob Barr for back issues of "THE WAY OF ZEPHYR" , this has been covered--Good Luck----- Larry

Hello Materal73, 119 views and no responses ---- sad! after looking at your pics, I don't see any damaged teeth. What is wrong with it? Perhaps a good cleaning with #1 "K" kerosene and a stiff parts cleaning brush should get it working. One of my favorite tools is a bench mounted wire wheel. Next clean with hot soapy water, let dry. Also, hang it in a plastic container filled with" Evaporust." Good stuff. Spray paint with a coat of black semigloss paint, Lube the gear wheels with a light coat of silicone grease. Let us know how it turns out a

I checked several of my Lincoln books , and I believe the Greyhound Ornament started in 1927

Gerry, I have never come across this problem that you mentioned in your post , mainly becaused I hve never work on any Lincoln later than 1948; BUT it can't be that much different. It looks like you will have to remove the door panel. I guess you have tried using different types of lubricants---WD40, PB Blaster, 20WT oil , all squirted in different openings. The '42 -'48 LCs, using the SS push buttons ,all press on a flat "plate" inside the door. I'am thinking the '49 used a similar design? Good luck and let us know how it turned out . Larry

After you get your starter back from having it repaired/ rebuilt and before reinstalling it back in the car ; clean off the area on the pan where the starter mounts. NO paint, no rust, no grease, no dirt! Must be bright silver!. If you don't have the small "Z" clip, obtain this, called the starter support Bracket- original P/N- 91A11140B ; replaced by P/N 51A-11140. This is in the Lincoln Parts book and is available from parts vendors. It fastens by 1 of the starter bolts and 1 of the pan/rail bolts. It helps keep the starter in alignment to the flywheel when engaged. Keep us posted on how this turns out

One thing I found out a long time ago -- 56 years playing with Flat head V8's and V12's --- just because the battery cables, starter cable; solenoid cable; look tight , take them off and REALLY clean the ends and battery posts SILVER bright !!! Check the easy stuff 1st!!!!!

Gerry, I have some information for you that you requested. "E" mail me at larry1938zephyr@gmail.com

If you think your M.C. is an original casting, why not have it sleeved and rebuilt by White Post Restorations. See their ad in HMN / June '23. They have been doing these for years. I have no connection with this company.

Charlie-- Many years ago , 1965; I also owned and started to restore a 1942 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet. It still had the vacuum widows, vac. radio ant. and the vacuum wipers. Under each front fender was a tank that was about 6" dia. by about 30" (?) in length. I heard somewhere ,each tank was about 1000 cu.in. Both check valves on the tanks were bad. Inside of each door was a oval vacuum cylinder , perhaps 5" dia . by about 10-12" in length. There were 2 controls for each window. I was told by other club members ( LZOC) that one was up and down and the other was for "quick release" . The escutcheons on the inside door panels were missing. I tested the window cylinder out side of the car with a direct vac. connection to the car engine and it worked!!!! I wrote to "Trico" and they had no longer had any any information on the system. The car did have the antenna control and the wiper control. Other members said that most '42 owners converted to elect/ hyd. , '46 -'48 LIncoln cars. The only printed info . I have is a copy of "Lincoln/ Mercury Service News", January, 1947. This shows the "vacuum Leveling tank system Installation for "47-"48 ONLY!! Send me a SSAE and I'll send you a copy. Good luck , keep us posted. L.E. Butcher 224 Cluside Dr. Taneytown MD. 21787

I answered your other post elsewhere on this site. The car looks great!. Before removing engine and rebuilding, why not get it running! But!!!!! DO NOT ! start engine without dropping the pan to clean out the "mud" also called oil. Good time to check the oil pump and perhaps replace the oil float. I have preached this to my other club members in AACA, Early Ford V 8 and Zephyr owners club. Many years ago, I help wreak a HV12 by starting it before cleaning it out. Keep us posted

First!!! There is no easy way to get the radiator out! In the past I have removed rads. from a '42 LC, '38 LZ and a '48LC. To give yourself some more "wrench room" remove dist/coil, fold dist.caps w conduits back on top of engine and tie with a pc. of cord--out of the way. Soak the 3 cap screws that hold the fan on the fan hub with PB- Blaster . Soak a small rag with same and soak the threads in the back. Use a 3/8 " drive and , I think; 1/2 " socket. I had purchased one just for this job, because I had to grind down the outside just a little to fit on head of the bolt. From the looks of the engine it seems to have sat a long time. Being very careful, take a propane torch( not oxy/ acetylene !) and heat the heads of the 3 bolts. Tap with a small hammer--this may help. Make sure all of the PB- blaster is wiped dry. These bolts are fine thread and look to be special. If this goes well , break loose the lower rad. bolts , but do not remove yet. I cannot see in front of the rad. but remove the flat stamped sheet metal air deflector, located between rad and hood lock down plate. You'll need this room to rock back rad to lift out. Naturally , cut away the old rad. hoses--- they're "toast" . Have fun ! let us know how it goes--- Larry

Vacuum on our old cars ( F,M,L ) is measured with a vacuum gauge. A good reading is around 15- 22 " on your gauge . If you purchase one, it should have instructions. Look for the vacuum port where your wiper hose is attached. On most of our Old "H' series Lincolns, the engineers designed and had installed vacuum tanks. On my '42 LC Cab . 2 tanks were installed , one under each each front fender. On my '48 LC Coupe , there is one installed under left front fender. Each tank had a 3 port vacuum. valve . The '42 had vacuum widows, vacuum antenna, and a the wiper motor. A "plumbers nightmare" with all of the hoses-- The check valves were pot metal and mostly junk now. So add up all of your connections--- 1 under carb, 3 at vac .tank, 3 at the antenna control, 3 at your wiper conrtol! Good luck! tell us what you find

As I posted on my July 24 post , the back up light switch on my '74 F100 looked very crude; but it did work with a little adjustment. Still might be worth a visit to your local parts yard . Good luck

Back up light parts are available from C&G Ford Parts, Inc. 1-800-266-0470

I once had a 1974 F100 pickup that had factory backup lights. built into the taillight unit. This truck a was a 302 V8 with 3spd column shifter. There was a switch attached to the steering column under the hood . The clamp looked like a radiator clamp! It was activated when the driver shifted into reverse. The low and reverse shift arm pushed against the button on the switch---very simple! Check a junk yard in your area, perhaps they might have an old F100 truck or go on line and find a vendor who supplies parts for old Ford trucks

John Mc, I don't have a spare armature separate from a starter to compare ,but I have a complete starter from my '46 Ford. By checking the " Lincoln Chassis parts Manual" '36-'48. They show the original part # for the starter as 18- 11002-'36-'47. Big change sometime in'47. The new # was 5EH-11002 '47-'48. The older armature is # 18-11005, the new starter is 5EH-11002. That pre fix 18 is the prefix for 1932 Ford ! .I think the big change was in the starter drives -- Often called "The Bendix". All of this can be found in the parts book pgs.- 178-181. I'am sorry I don't have the parts I can lay out and take photos of. BUT! When I was going over my newly purchased (2010) 48 LC w/ HV12 I noticed the end of the "snout" on the pan where the starter was mounted , was cut off about 3/8" to allow the newer drive to fit. I also noticed this on my '46 Ford the same thing was done. I repaired both with a section of a standard plain pro- pane bottle soldered on /finished/ painted. Any more questions "E" me at larry1938zephyr@gmail.com or call me 1-410-756-5310

I replaced both right and left rear wheel brake cylinders on my '48 LC with new DORMAN cylinders. They are different for right and left sides. The left is W4803 and the right is W4804. I just called Dorman today and they are available , but will not sell unless through a local jobber. I ordered at my local auto parts shop I deal with.

I'am having the same problem trying to find the frt.vent window seals and the rear quarter vent seals for my '48 LC Coupe

Your post reminded me of the same thing that happened to me , years ago ; 1967 to be exact. I was rebuilding the engine in my '42 Continental Cabriolet ,and while wire brushing , flushing with kerosene , the underside of my intake manifold turn to "salt"! The whole underside fell away ! I think it was caused by the under carb preheat , too much moisture, caused by short trips not allowing the engine to heat up and " cook" the water out. I made a call to the great V12 parts guy--- the late Hunt Barrington! For $25 and a little for shipping, I had a NOS 4 bolt V12 intake!!! Those were the days---fast forward ---very fast ; it is 2012 and I'am pulling the intake off of my newly acquired 1948 Continental Coupe, just to see how much " mud " has accumulated in the "valley" --clean as a pin! BUT the intake manifold is another story. Total rot out. With a high speed die grinder, I cleaned out all of the "salt" , blocked off the heat riser ports and replaced the steel "core plugs. Being careful , not to to plug up the intake channels; I packed in about 5 packs of "JB WELD"! Ground down everything smooth , installed manifold, rebuilt the carb and fired up that "baby" ! Runs great, starts easy, runs cool. Of course I went over the ignition, new wiring on the engine ,replaced radiator core ETC, ETC. I'am still working on that car, a little every day. --- Larry

Back to my post- I started this post I guess I should add some of my input. Right now removing all of the windows to have glass replaced. The rear quarters and vent windows are a real "BEAR"! The seals and gaskets are shot. At the same time polishing all of the S.S. window frames. Anyone been through this? Fenders, deck lid, hood , skirts, rear splash pan sandblasted, epoxy primed. Any one want to sell me a rt. frt. fender for a '46-'48 LC? Mine might be just too much to do--Later--Larry

Thanks for the replies , I feel a little better; I 'am not the only one working on one these "non- muscle" cars !--- Larry

Ok! Zephyr and early Continental guys & gals, what are you working on this winter? I'am now over 80 and working all of my spare time on my 1948 LC Coupe . I'ave had it for over 12 years and trying to do most of it myself. All missing parts have been obtained. More details later, if anyone interested; and perhaps pics( if I can figure that out). Larry #86

This may help, look up Vol.29 #2 March/April '96 ; Alan Whelihan wrote a good article on the fuel pump pushrod. He supplied a a new pushrod and bushing for the HV12 engines. His parts are now carried by "Eclectic Motor Company" ( see ads in recent "TWOTZ" ) Also check out Vol. #'s 55-2,55-3, and 55-4 of the "TWOTZ" . Back issues may be available ---Larry