Rayfield model G carburetor

[AHa]

Does anybody here have experience with a Rayfield model G carburetor? It was touted as a great race car carburetor in a 1915 Rayfield ad and of course its virtues were highly praised. I'm wondering how good they really are and also, having one, I can see no provision for choke. Can someone explain how to choke it? Or, is it necessary?

[Grimy]

Here's a cut-and-paste section from the Paige 6-66 owner's manual, which I have only as a pdf (I had to edit piecemeal as the cut-and-paste didn't work well):

 

I also have about a 4-page brochure (print only) on the Rayfield G which if I find it I can photograph--but I'm frantically preparing a car for a tour at the moment.  Let me know if you need more.

 

Dash Control
The carburetor is equipped with a dash control which raises the-low speed adjusting needle,
supplying a richer mixture for starting the motor when stiff or cold. When puÌled aÌl the way out,

 

Figure No. 15 SECTIONAL VIEW OF CARBURETOR

it not only raises the 1ow speed needle, allowing for a richer mixture of gas, but also operates the
starting primer. This primer provides an increased charge of gas from the float chamber directly
into the motor.  It is controlled by a plunger valve with two by-pass openings-one in
the throat of the carburetor above the throttle butterfly; the other in the float chamber beneath
the gas level. By pulling out the dash control full length, which automatically pushes the plunger
valve down, the by-pass is opened and the motor draws a_very rich charge of gas directly from
the float chamber.  The throttle must be closed in order to obtain this action effectively.
 

[AHa]

Grimy, no hurry, but how does the carb perform in your 6-66?

[Grimy]

The car has been off the road for a few years now (hopefully ON the road by spring), but the Rayfield G performed well in that there was plenty of power throughout the range--surprisingly so by 1920s standards.  But it was a bit finicky to learn to dial in with the knurled detent adjustment knobs that took some time to get used to (I counted clicks each way in the process).  In my area I did not want the water jacket feature (heated coolant around carb to facilitate combustion in the 1920s is exactly the opposite of what we need today), so I shut off the flow valves but left the lines in place.

[Grimy]

@AHa here's a 2-pager that was available to me tonight.  Covers both G&L.  I have only photocopies.  Best I can do until next week.

[AHa]

Grimy, YOU ARE A GODSEND! I really appreciate this! Blessings on you my friend!

 

I would like to have a picture of the dash control when you get a chance. The choke control is a lever that would take a rod, so not your normal choke control. I'm assuming there is a series of linkages involved.

Edited September 11, 2023 by AHa (see edit history)

[oldford]

Here are a few photos of the dash control on my 1922 Reo. The lever on the column is rotated to the right to choke the carburetor and this operates a series of bell cranks to operate the choke.

 

Frank

[AHa]

Thank you Frank, this is what I was assuming took place Can I ask, is your Rayfied a model G or L? Mine has the lever but it is of a different design.

[oldford]

Mine is a model L. LL3P

Dykes has a nice section on adjusting the Rayfield...

Edited September 12, 2023 by oldford (see edit history)

[AHa]

Thanks. I read one report of fires with a Rayfield carb but I figure any carb that leaks gas is subject to fires.

[oldford]

At the risk of suffering the wrath of some of the more elite members of this forum, I will tell you my experience with this Rayfield. I purchased my car just about one year ago and it ran well with the Rayfield, at least it idled well in the yard. It ran well on the level ground, but it would not climb a hill, losing power as it climbed. I tried adjusting high speed mixture and idle mixture, all the while carefully counting the clicks in each direction. Since I drive all of my cars, I could not depend on this carb to get me home, let alone get where I wanted to go. I did some research on replacement Zenith updrafts and chose the Zenith 14999. I have a copy of a report by Phil Peters of the Durant club where they tested different new carburetors and provided a table of correct part numbers with respect to engine size and horse power. The switch to the Zenith was effortless with only a slight change to one of the choke rods. I have the Rayfield (along with a spare) sitting on a shelf, ready to go back on the car if necessary, but the Zenith will be used to keep my car on the road.

 

Frank

Edited September 12, 2023 by oldford (see edit history)

[AHa]

Thank you for this, and yes I am well aware of the wrath that comes from some on this forum. Thanks for sticking your neck out for me. I shelved the Rayfield and bought a Stromberg OE1, still a period correct carb but much more user friendly. The one complaint I am hearing about the Rayfield is getting it adjusted correctly. The factory adjustment was probably good but through the years people have adjusted them to run good at cold idle or other mistakes when it was not the carbs fault at all. I have not attempted a first start on this car yet. I suspect it is going to sling oil all over everything and I wanted to complete the car before everything gets covered with oil. We'll see. Thanks again for your input.