Rear bearing block on the water pump shaft on a 1925 Buick standard 6

[Stephen Daley]

G’ Day 

On a 1925 Buick standard six.

I was wondering if you can remove the rear bearing block on the water pump with out removing the water pump shaft from the car 

as there is nothing wrong with the water pump but there is engine oil coming out around the shaft seals on that bearing block

I have read through the removal and inspection of the water pump instructions and can’t see any mention of just the bearing block being able to removed and resealed

if I’m not able to just remove that bearing block , is there any sort of timing of the engine  that need to be done to remove the water pump shaft .

[dibarlaw]

I know we made comment on the orientation of ther bearing in your other post. But as long as it is in that position I would leave it. Otherwise the entire pump will need to be removed just to switch the bearing orientation. NO FUN! Also the engine would need to be re-timed. I have a question.... What is the piece to the right of the bearing with the 2 knurled tracks? The water pump should have a brass hex packing nut on that side of the pump. It does not appear that the rear pump bearing could move forward enough be able to slide the starter genertor coupling forward. Essential for the pump to be removed without removing the starter generator.

This is how far the bearing and coupler should be able to be moved. Unless on your car someone cut the pump shaft and has the knurled piece as a coupling collar.

 

[Stephen Daley]

I’m not sure about the knurled bits I was wondering that myself after seeing all the photos of the hex nuts on them 

I have only just brought this car and I’m going through it and getting it ready for registration 

I’m  guessing that I’m going to have to pull it all out and sort it out 

thanks 👍🏻

[Hubert_25-25]

I always make it a habit whenever I can to set any car on #1 TDC before I work on anything timing related.  So if you had a stuck water pump, it wouldn't work, but I have set mine up and removed the water pump several times without effecting the timing.  You do have to pay attention to where you stab a bevel gear and it's final resting place.    

I also marked my fiber timing gear on the back side so that I always have verification before I install the water pump. 

Also - Dean Tryon makes replacement water pump nuts.  But, I wonder given the size of those knurled nuts, if those are perhaps special made for something like a lip seal and not just packing?

As Larry said, both end pieces on the shaft have to come in if the Starter Generator stays in place.  

I do see some minor differences in the end chamfers on your rear bearing and wondering if this is OEM or a replacement.   OEM has 2 holes on the bottom side for draining oil - see the last photo.   

 

 Hugh

 

 

Edited August 15, 2023 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Stephen Daley]

21 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

I always make it a habit whenever I can to set any car on #1 TDC before I work on anything timing related.  So if you had a stuck water pump, it wouldn't work, but I have set mine up and removed the water pump several times without effecting the timing.  You do have to pay attention to where you stab a bevel gear and it's final resting place.    

I also marked my fiber timing gear on the back side so that I always have verification before I install the water pump. 

Also - Dean Tryon makes replacement water pump nuts.  But, I wonder given the size of those knurled nuts, if those are perhaps special made for something like a lip seal and not just packing?

As Larry said, both end pieces on the shaft have to come in if the Starter Generator stays in place.  

I do see some minor differences in the end chamfers on your rear bearing and wondering if this is OEM or a replacement.   OEM has 2 holes on the bottom side for draining oil - see the last photo.   

 

 Hugh

 

 

Thanks Hubert you mite be onto something there about the lip seal on the water pump.

I do know that the fella that originally restored the Buick was a fitter and tunner 

(as am I ) so he could of and most definitely looks like he has modified several things along the pump shaft even to go as far to put lip seals into the bearing block I tried to get a photo but it didn’t turn out to good I will put it up anyway (the black thing in the face is a rubber seal) 

for now I’m going to run with it as I need to get it finished for my Daughters graduation 

Cheers for all the advice mate I really appreciate it 👍🏻and no doubt I will need help when I tackle that job soon