Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Step - By- Step Photographic Rebuild Procedure

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

This is the first installment of my step-by-step photographic guide to disassembly, cleaning, rebuilding and adjusting a Carter WCD 2-barrel carburetor.

 

The Carter carburetor I'm rebuilding is a 608S, 608SA which was used on the 1946 and 1947 Series 40 and Series 50.

I run the 608S on my 1937 Special and it is a smooth running, powerful unit.  So I decided to rebuild another as a spare.  

 

 

I used all original Carter Service manuals to complete the restoration in a logical fashion, making changes as needed to help explain various steps.

I also tried to use the Carter nomenclature for all the parts (in bold), so anyone using these notes as a guide can easily look up parts by their proper names.

 

After reading many original service sheets for the multiple WCD models, I think this will help anyone looking to take on this job.  

Whether looking to do a full, complete rebuild or simply changing gaskets and cleaning out the crud for the new driving season,  I've realized that no matter what model WCD you have, the service procedure pretty much follows the same pattern.  The major differences seem to be the adjustments of the various components once you are finished.  

My goal is to give you insight to the guts of these units and hopefully remove any of the internal mysteries so you can tackle your project.

 

 

Over the next few posts, I'll detail step by step how I made this transition.

 

 

I did have to purchase a wreck on eBay just to get a starter switch assembly that I could restore as this one came to my from the hull of the Titanic.

 

Enough introduction!  Next post begins the restoration.

 

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART ONE:  DISASSEMBLY

 

1. Remove the carburetor from the engine

2. Drain out all the fuel

 

 

3. Remove the Fast Idle Connector Rod:

3A. Remove the pin spring from the fast idle connector rod at the fast idle cam trip lever and pull the rod free at its lower end.

 

3B. Rotate the upper end of the fast idle connector rod until the upset aligns with the elongated hole in the choke lever.

3C. Free the fast idle connector rod from the choke lever and screw assembly and from the carburetor completely.

 

 

4. Remove the Throttle Connector Rod:

4A. Remove the throttle connector rod spring retainer, spring and washer.  Keep these small parts safe. (I stuck them to a piece of blue tape)

4B. Free the throttle connector rod from the throttle shaft arm at the base of the carburetor.

 

 

4C. Remove the pin spring from the throttle connector rod at the pump operating lever on the upper end of the rod.

 

 

4D. Free the throttle connector rod from the carburetor.  Close up of the crusty spring and spring retainer.  Missing: washer.

 

 

The next few steps separate the carburetor into its four main components.

 

 

5. Remove Air Horn / Climactic Control Assembly with all parts attached:

 

Following along with the Carter Service procedure.

 

 

5A. Remove the four 1" length air horn attaching screws and lock washers.

5B. Lift the air horn assembly free from the bowl cover assembly.

The Air Horn Assembly is now ready for further disassembly and cleaning.  Place it aside for now.

 

 

 

 

6. Remove the Bowl Cover And Strainer Assembly with all parts attached:

 

From the manual.

 

 

6A. Remove the six  9/16" length bowl cover attaching screws and lock washers.

6B. The screw directly above the Carter carstarter starter switch holds the starter switch cable clip.

6C. One of the other rear screws holds the brass data tag. (608S)

6D. Carefully begin to lift the bowl cover assembly free from the bowl.

 

6E. Be careful to lift the lid straight up to protect the metering rods and the brass float.  It all comes out together.

6F. The vacumeter piston is also attached.  Mine required a penetrant to loosen it enough to finally come out.

6G. Notice also the bowl cover gasket comes out attached as well.

 

 

6H. The Bowl Cover and Strainer Assembly is now ready for further disassembly and cleaning.  Place it aside for now.

 

 

 

 

7. Separate the Main Body (Bowl) Assembly from the Body Flange / Starter Switch Assembly:

 

From the Carter procedure sheet.

 

 

7A. Flip carburetor over so the manifold side is facing up.

7B. Remove the four  3/4" length body flange attaching screws and lock washers.

 

 

7C. Separate the body flange assembly from the main body assembly.

7D. Remove the body flange gasket.

 

 

7E. The Body Flange / Starter Switch Assembly and the Main Body (Bowl) are ready for further disassembly and cleaning.  

 

 

At this point you have your carburetor separated into its four main components.

The next posts will dive into the disassembly of each component down to their smaller parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

...continuing the Disassembly phase

 

 

8. Disassemble the Air Horn / Climactic Control / Choke Assembly:

 

Top view of the Air Horn Assembly prior to disassembly.

 

 

8A. Remove or loosen the choke lever clamp screw and choke lever clamp nut.

8B. Remove the choke lever from the choke shaft assembly.

 

 

8C. Remove both choke valve attaching screws.

8D. Remove the choke valve.

 

 

8E. Remove three 1/4" coil housing attaching screws and coil housing retainers together.

 

 

8F. Remove the thermostatic coil and housing assembly.

8G. Remove the coil housing gasket.

 

 

8H. Remove the coil housing baffle plate.

 

 

8I. Push (or punch) the choke piston (attached to the choke piston lever) into the thermostat chamber.

8J. As the choke piston moves, the choke shaft will rotate until the choke piston clears its operating cylinder.

8K. When the choke piston is clear of its cylinder, gently tap the choke shaft assembly free.

 

 

The Air Horn and its components are completely disassembled and ready for further cleaning and restoration.

 

 

 

 

Next post...   disassembly of the bowl cover assembly.

[EmTee]

Gary, I would have taken one look at that carburetor and passed.  The transformation is amazing! 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

...continuing the Disassembly phase

 

 

 

9. Disassemble the Bowl Cover Assembly:

(This part is in two separate posts as there are a lot of parts under that lid and the photo limit will be exceeded)

 

Underside of the Bowl Cover Assembly as removed before disassembly.

 

 

9A. Start with the "float circuit".  These are the parts that control gasoline level.

9B. Push our or gently punch out the float lever hinge pin.

 

9C. Remove the float and lever assembly with needle attached by the small wire.

 

 

9D. Remove the needle seat with the needle seat gasket using a large flat blade screwdriver.

 

 

9E. Remove the fuel strainer nut and gasket assembly with a 3/4" wrench.

9F. Pull out the brass mesh bowl cover strainer. (Mine came out with the nut)

 

 

Next, we'll remove the pump jet and housing assembly.

 

9G. Remove the two 1/2" length pump jet attaching screws and lock washers to free the pump jet and housing assembly.

 

 

9H. Remove the pump jet and housing assembly.

9I. Remove the air horn gasket.  (Or, in this case, what's left of it!)

 

 

The remaining disassembly of the Bowl Cover is in no particular order, but here is my step-by-step:

 

9J. Remove the pump discharge passage plug and gasket assembly by unscrewing it.

 

 

9K. Remove the pump discharge check plug by unscrewing it.  No gasket here.

 

 

9L. Once the pump discharge check plug is removed, tip the bowl cover over and the pump check needle will slide out of the passage cylinder.  It comes out pointy side up.

 

 

9M. Remove the pump strainer.  It's a press fit.

 

 

9N. Remove two 3/8" dust cover attaching screws and lock washers to release the dust cover.

 

 

9O. Remove the single metering rod arm clamp screw from the metering rod arm, freeing it from the countershaft assembly.

 

 

9P. Remove the larger size pin spring clip from outside the pump countershaft.

 

 

9Q. Tap out the pump operating lever / countershaft assembly while holding the metering rod arm in place.  The countershaft will slip through.

 

 

9R. Remove the pin spring from the upper end of the pump connection link.

9S. Separate the pump connection link from the metering rod arm and the pump plunger rod.

9T. Remove the metering rod arm.

 

 

9U. Remove the pump connection link.

9V. These are the parts on the pump operating lever and countershaft assembly.

 

 

Next post will finish the bowl lid disassembly.

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

...continuing the Disassembly phase

 

 

 

9. Disassemble the Bowl Cover Assembly:    part two

 

 

9W. Turn the vacumeter piston 90 degrees and remove the piston from the vacumeter piston link.

 

 

9X. Once the vacumeter piston is removed, this is the presentation.

 

 

9Y. Carefully lift out the vacumeter piston link with metering rods and metering rod spring attached.

9Z. Carefully remove the metering rods from the vacumeter piston link, not upsetting the fine metering rod spring.

 

 

9AA. Guide one leg of the metering rod spring through the center hole and gently ease it our of the vacumeter piston link.

Carefully protect the spring and place it aside for safe keeping.  (Again, I kept it stuck to a piece of blue tape)

 

 

9BB. The metering rods, metering rod spring and the vacumeter piston link are separated.

 

 

9CC. Carefully remove both low speed jets with a 1/4" spinner.  NO gaskets here.

 

 

9DD. Remove the pump plunger guide retaining screw.

 

 

9EE. Remove the pump plunger guide.

 

 

9FF. **Note**  I used the open slot in the side of the casting to get it started.

 

9GG. Withdraw the pump plunger assembly.  

Save this entire assembly!  It will be restored using a new plunger from the rebuild kit BUT you will re-use the original spring and spring retainer.

 

 

9HH. Remove the lower pump spring.  These are the accelerator pump parts.

 

 

9II. Remove the pump intake ball and retainer.  I used a very fine punch from underneath against the steel ball.

 

 

The Bowl Cover Assembly and its components are ready for cleaning.

 

 

 

 

 

Next post will disassemble the Body (Bowl)

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

...continuing the Disassembly phase

 

 

 

10. Disassemble the Bowl (Body):

 

 

Inside the Bowl separated from the flange below and the lid above.

 

 

10A. The metering rod jets are located on either side of the vacumeter piston cylinder.  Close up in the photo on the right.

 

 

10B. Remove the metering rod jets and gaskets with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

 

10C. Close up photo of the metering rod jets and gaskets as removed.

 

 

10D. Remove the vacumeter piston spring.

 

 

10E. Remove both silver colored nozzle passage rivet plugs.

 

 

10F. Remove the center rivet plug.

 

 

10G. Remove the fuel sight plug.  No gasket here.

These are the only parts from the Bowl

 

 

The Bowl (Body) and its components are ready for cleaning.

 

 

Good start for tonight.  I'll continue with the disassembly of the Body Flange tomorrow night.  

 

Gary

[carbking]

EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

 

If this website has a "sticky" feature, this thread should be included.

 

EDIT: Gary - I posted a link to this thread on another technical forum; hope you don't mind.

 

Jon

Edited May 4, 2023 by carbking (see edit history)

[Gary W]

 

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

...continuing the Disassembly phase

 

 

11. Disassemble the Body Flange:

 

The Body Flange separated from the Body (Bowl) and Body Flange gasket removed.

 

 

Disassembly starts by removing the Carter Carstarter starting switch assembly and its internal components.

*Note:  The starting switch MUST be removed completely before attempting to remove the throttle shaft.

There is a steel ball that rests in a groove milled into the throttle shaft and will prevent you from sliding the throttle shaft out.

 

11A. Remove the terminal cap attaching screw to release the terminal cap hold down clip.

 

 

11B. Remove the switch terminal cap assembly with the switch terminal screws and lock washers attached.

11C. Remove the switch return spring from the Bakelite switch terminal cap assembly.

 

 

11D. Remove the Bakelite switch guide block.  The switch guide block is an assembly of five different parts:

 

         1. The switch return spring.  It sits flush on the switch return spring washer (2) and is responsible for breaking electrical contact.

         2. The switch return spring washer.  This is a small round washer with a square hole in the middle that sits atop the "W"-shaped switch contact spring.(3) (Don't confuse it with the shims)

         3. The switch contact spring (brass part shaped like the letter "W" that completes the electrical circuit to your solenoid / starter)

         4. The switch contact spring shims.  These are very important as they set the degree of throttle opening at which electrical contact is made by adjusting the height of the switch contact spring. (3)

         5. The Bakelite switch guide block itself.

 

 

11E. Remove the switch plunger and the steel switch ball from the flange casting.

 

 

11F. Remove the switch strainer retainer ring and the mesh switch strainer.  (Or, what's left of it)

 

 

11G. Set all those Carter Carstarter starter switch parts aside for cleaning.

 

 

11H. Remove the vacuum fitting.  It's a 1/8" O.D. tube, 5/16-24 threaded double compression brass sleeve nut.  Use a 5/16 wrench.

11I. Remove the brass fitting from the flange that the vacuum line compression nut threads into.  Use a 7/16 wrench.

 

 

11J. Remove both idle air adjustment screws and springs.

11K. Remove both idle port rivet plugs.  (Large copper plugs)

 

 

11L. Remove the four throttle valve attaching screws freeing the throttle valves from the throttle shaft assembly.

**NOTE:  Always file or grind off the peened area of the back side of the screws before attempting to unscrew them.

 

11M. Remove both throttle valves.  Note the position of the (c) which is visible from the manifold side.  It matters on rebuild.

 

 

11N. Remove the throttle shaft arm screw, washer and throttle shaft arm.

This took a lot of heat and penetrant to finally break free.

 

 

The throttle shaft sits proud of the casting.

11O. I screwed the throttle shaft arm screw back in so I could gently tap on it to start removing the throttle shaft.

(Trying not to booger up the threads in the brass throttle shaft.)

 

 

11P. Withdraw the entire throttle shaft assembly from the flange.  

I gently tapped on the screw head until the shaft was flush.  Then rotating back and forth it came free.

 

 

11Q. Remove the throttle shaft centering screw from the flange.  **NOTE  608S only. Not used on the 608SA model.

 

A word about the throttle shafts used in the 608S and 608SA carburetors.  These units are identical except for the flange assembly and throttle shafts used:

608S:  Uses flange 1-333S, grooved throttle shaft/lever assembly 3-404S, throttle centering screw 101-69

608SA: Uses flange 1-547S, ungrooved throttle shaft/lever assembly 3-594S, throttle shaft retaining ring 63-118

 

all other parts used on the build correlate exactly.

 

 

 

11R. Remove the fast idle cam attaching screw and the fast idle cam assembly.  Includes the cam trip lever.

 

 

The last few steps are breaking down the throttle shaft assembly for easier cleaning and restoration:

 

11S. Remove both the throttle lever adjustment screw (idle adjustment screw) and the fast idle adjustment screw.

 

 

11T. Remove the throttle flex spring.  This frees up the throttle shaft dog and collar.

11U. Remove the throttle shaft dog and collar for better cleaning of the shaft.

 

 

11V. The throttle shaft is now stripped clean and ready for cleaning, polishing....

 

 

The Body Flange and its components are ready for cleaning and restoring.

 

 

Next up is part 2..  Cleaning and evaluating all the parts in preparation for the rebuild.

 

Edited May 5, 2023 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

Part Two:  Cleaning and Evaluating all parts and Rebuild Kits.  Preparing for rebuild.  (1)

 

 

When you read the Carter Service Procedure, step 7 says:

"Wash all parts in clean gasoline except coil and housing assembly, cork pieces and switch parts.  Blow out all passages with compressed air and scrape carbon from bores of flange and replace all worn or damaged parts."  It then goes immediately to step 8 which is the reassembly.  I took a little more time and effort cleaning all the parts.  I don't want to bore you with all the gory details, but I will document all the steps I took to get all the parts as nice as I could get them.

 

 

I kept all the parts with the four major components together.  

 

 

I soaked all the major parts in hot water and used Dawn Platinum with a toothbrush to get most of the heavy grime off the castings.

 

 

This is the air horn going through the scrubbing process.  I ran a paper towel through the cylinder to be sure no residual grease was stuck in there.

 

 

I used my wire wheel to give the castings a very nice "satin" sheen.  It also got rid of the rest of the outside crud.

 

 

The air horn before and after.

 

 

Here is a variety of parts before and after.  I did not use the wire wheel on the soft brass parts.  They got buffed with a cotton wheel and jewelers rouge.

 

 

Air horn and choke parts after cleaning up.

 

 

Dust cover after wire wheel.

 

 

Cam trip lever, part # 14-275 with the Carter trademark now visible.

 

 

Time and patience every small part was cleaned up.

 

 

I used simichrome polish on the float.  Just a buffing cloth on the bench.  No machine polish as I was afraid it would be ruined if the wheel caught it.

 

 

Some carburetor jewelry!

 

 

Another photo of the parts getting ready for the rebuild.  The throttle shaft shows the milled groove that the steel ball fits in to work the starter switch.

 

 

Throttle shaft all cleaned up.  Any broken throttle valve screws were removed, any bends that were out of whack were bent back into shape.

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

Part Two:  Cleaning and Evaluating all parts and Rebuild Kits.  Preparing for rebuild.  (2)

 

 

At this point, all the small parts are cleaned and polished.

The throttle shaft is renovated and all cleaned up.  Continuing..........

 

 

 

Restore the Body Flange:

After scrubbing, then wire wheeling, then an hour in an ultrasonic cleaner and a final overnight in Rid-O-Rust, the flange finally came out nice and clean!

I scrubbed it with acetone in preparation for painting.

I used my punch kit to punch blue tape circles to fit over all the openings and orifices.

 

 

Then a nice coat of black and let it dry completely.  The photo on the right you can see the idle ports.  The Body Flange is ready to be rebuilt.

 

 

 

Chase the fuel feed in the Bowl Lid to clean and restore the threads:

The threads where the fuel feed screws into were a mess.  I chased the threads with a 1/8 NPT 27 tap.

 

 

Easy in, just enough to chase the threads.  Check fit with the fuel fitting.  OK!

 

 

 

Restore the Plunger Assembly:

Before and After.  

I used Jon's plunger from his rebuild kit with the original spring and spring retainer.  Nice!

 

 

 

Final check of all the major components:

All openings and ports were blown through with compressed air.  I also used fine wire and welding tip cleaners to get into all the smaller openings.

 

 

The main components all cleaned up on the bench and looking pretty good at this point!

 

 

First mock up of the major components just sitting together.  Quite a transformation already.

 

 

 

 

 

Comparison of the smaller parts to the rebuild kits:

I found this unopened, NOS Carter Repair Parts Package on eBay.  This one was specific for the 608S - 608SA.  Inside is four envelopes and a bunch of other parts.

 

 

Here's the kit laid out.  Notice the plunger at the bottom.  It's completely dry rotted BUT the spring and retainer were good.  Every gasket is too dried out to use.

 

 

Up close of the parts enclosed in the envelopes.  I used every one of these parts in the rebuild.

 

 

Close-up of the Carter NOS metering rods (standard) and the Metering Rod jet and gasket assembly.  Part numbers stamped right on the parts.

 

 

Jon's rebuild kit has everything included.  I used every gasket, the plunger, the spring...  Quality kit.

 

 

 

Organize all the parts for the rebuild:

 

I followed the Carter Service procedure and organized all the parts for the rebuild the way the manual suggests:

 

8. Group all parts controlling gasoline level.

 

 

9. Group all parts controlling idle operation.

 

 

10. Group all parts controlling high speed operation.

 

 

11. Group all parts controlling pump operation.

 

 

12. Group all parts controlling choke operation.

 

 

13. Group all parts controlling switch operation.

Restoration notes here:  All the brass parts were hand polished on the bench simply to make good electrical contact.

I used the wire wheel on the steel parts

The Bakelite parts were polished using my automobile polish by hand also.  

Go easy on these parts so nothing gets ruined.

 

 

 

 

 

That concludes the cleaning portion of the restoration..   Next I'll start the rebuild, one component at a time.

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

[Drakeule]

Gary:

I just gave this post a cursory glance, but it looks like you have done a magnificent job detailing the process.Awaiting the rest of the story. Bravo!

 

Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md.

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY

 

 

12. Reassemble the Body Flange:

 

 

I organized all the parts into the four main components.  This represents all the parts that make up the Body Flange.  

 

 

12A. All orifices are blown out with compressed air, cans of carburetor cleaner, fine wire, welding tip cleaners, pipe cleaners.  

The idea is to be sure every port is clear and clean.

 

 

Start by rebuilding the renovated throttle shaft to create a finished throttle shaft assembly:

12B. Slide on the throttle shaft dog and collar.

 

 

12C. Install the throttle flex spring.

 

 

12D. Install the throttle lever adjustment screw ("flat" end screw).  Keep it loose for now..... not hitting the stop.

12E. Install the fast idle adjustment screw ("pointed" end screw).  Keep it loose for now.

 

 

12F. Install the throttle centering screw.  (608S only) I looked down the throttle bore to be sure it was oriented properly.

 

 

12G. Slide the entire rebuilt throttle shaft assembly back into position in the body flange.

 

 

12H. Install the throttle shaft arm over the end of the throttle shaft.  A small socket helped seat it level and flush.

 

 

12I. After installing the throttle shaft washer, I chased the threads with a 10-32 tap. They got a little boogered up.

 

 

12J. Attach the throttle shaft arm and throttle shaft washer with the throttle shaft arm attaching screw.

 

 

12K. Build up the fast idle cam with the cam trip lever, fast idle cam assembly and fast idle cam attaching screw.

12L. Install the fast idle cam assembly using the fast idle cam attaching screw.  Note the position of the small spring.

 

 

12M. Install the throttle valves.  Back out the idle and fast idle adjustment screws so the throttle valves fully close.

 

 

12N. Align the throttle valves so the (c) symbol is toward the idle port when viewed from the bottom (manifold side).

I used a dot of thread locker on the tips of the throttle valve screws.

 

 

12O. Just start the throttle valve screws.  Fully close the valves and tap the valves to achieve full seating before tightening.  

The photo on the right is looking up from the manifold side and you can see the (c) toward the idle port.

 

 

12P. Install the idle port rivet plugs.  (Copper plugs)

 

 

12Q. Install the idle adjustment screws and springs according to your carburetor's specific adjustment.  

 

 

12R. Turn the idle screws in to just seat. Don't force them or you will distort the tip.  

My instruction sheet says to back them out 1/2 turn for initial setting.   I'll fine tune it on the car using a vacuum gauge.

 

 

12S. Install the vacuum fitting.  7/16" wrench.

 

 

 

The last steps to finishing the flange are the installation of the Carter carstarter starter switch assembly.

These are the parts all cleaned up and laid out in the order they are installed.

 

 

12T.  Install the switch strainer and the switch strainer retainer ring.

 

 

12U. Drop in the steel switch ball.  It rests in a groove milled into the throttle shaft.

12V. Insert the metal switch plunger.  Be sure the open end faces up.

12W. Insert the Bakelite switch guide block assembly into the switch plunger.

(*The Bakelite switch guide block assembly is made up of two or three switch contact spring shims, the "W" shaped switch contact spring and the switch return spring washer.)

 

 

Here are the next few parts to go in.

12X. Install the switch return spring onto the washer atop the "W"-shaped switch contact spring.

 

 

12Y. Install the Bakelite switch terminal cap, using the terminal cap hold down clip and attaching screw.

 

 

12Z. Install both terminal lock washers and switch terminal screws.   The Carter carstarter starter switch is now fully assembled.

 

 

Operational Note:

 

The Bakelite switch guide block (3) contains two or more square brass switch contact shims (4) for adjusting the degree of throttle opening at which switch contact is made.  (30 to 45 degrees of throttle opening.)  The switch guide block (3) also contains the "W"-shaped switch contact spring (5) and the switch return spring washer that the switch return spring (6) seats against.

When starting, (throttle is opened via the accelerator pedal AND the engine is stopped) the throttle shaft rotates, forcing the steel switch ball (1) against the switch plunger (2)

which moves the Bakelite switch guide block assembly (3,4,5) upward into the Bakelite switch terminal cap (7).  At the proper throttle shaft angle, the switch contact spring (5) makes electrical contact between the two brass inserts molded inside the Bakelite switch terminal cap (7).  This is the switch in the solenoid circuit that operates the starter motor.

 

Once the motor starts, manifold vacuum pulls the switch ball (1) up and away from the throttle shaft and switch plunger (2) allowing the switch return spring (6) to force everything downward, breaking the electrical contact. As long as the engine is running, vacuum will keep the switch ball (1) in its seat allowing the throttle shaft to freely rotate without initiating the chain of events that causes the switch to make contact.

 When the engine is stopped, manifold vacuum is gone and the switch ball (1) will drop down into its starting position again.

 

 

The Body Flange / Starter Switch Assembly is complete.

 

 

next post assemble the Bowl and attach it to the completed flange.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY (continued...)

 

 

13. Rebuild the Body (Bowl)

 

All the bowl parts needed for reassembly.

 

 

Again, all ports and channels were blown out clean just prior to reassembly.

 

 

13A. Install the fuel level sight plug.  No gasket used here.

 

 

13B. Install the single rivet plug between the two nozzle passage ports.  

I had to steal one from a donor carb and kinda messed it up removing it so I used a rivet former to create a nice dome.

 

 

13C. Install the two nozzle passage rivet plugs.

 

 

13D. Drop in the vacumeter piston spring.  

It will keep falling out as you flip the body over, but this is the place for it.

 

 

13E. Install the two metering rod jet and gasket assemblies with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

 

13F.  The Carter metering rod jet assembly are marked 120-65S.  It's the part number.

 

 

13G. Install a new body flange gasket, lining it up with the ports in the body casting.  The gasket is from Jon's rebuild kit.

(You can see the vacumeter spring fell out when I turned it over)

 

The bowl assembly is now complete.

 

13H. Begin lowering the restored body flange assembly down onto the bowl assembly.  (The Carter gasket is seen here just because the lighter color photographed better)

 

 

13I. Attach the body flange assembly to the body using four body flange attaching screws and lock washers.

13J. Set it upright on the flange and drop the vacumeter piston spring back into its cylinder.

 

 

The lower two parts of the carburetor are finished.  Next: reassemble the bowl lid.

 

 

 

 

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY (continued...)

 

 

14. Rebuild the Bowl Cover Assembly.   (Part 1)

 

 

The Bowl Cover parts laid out.  There are a lot of parts attached to the Bowl Cover so this part is a little long.

 

 

The Bowl Cover is cleaned, all orifices are blown out, wired out and cleaned completely.

 

 

14A. Drop in the small pump intake ball.

14B. Tightly install the intake ball check retainer.  It's a press fit so be sure it is secured firmly in position.

 I carried it into position on the tip of a magnetized screwdriver and then using a fine punch I was able to secure the edges in place.

 

 

14C. Drop in the lower pump spring.

 

 

14D. Install the pump plunger assembly (pump plunger, rod, spring and spring retainer) that you previously restored.

14E. Install the pump plunger guide.  Line up the positive on the guide with the detent in the lid casting.

 

 

14F. Install the pump guide retaining screw.

 

 

14G. Install both low speed jet assemblies.  I started them by hand, and finished using a 1/4" spinner.  NO gasket used here.

 

 

14H. Install the metering rod spring onto the vacumeter piston link.

14I. Feed one leg through the center hole to get it in proper position.

 

 

14J. Slide the vacumeter piston link into position through the elongated hole in the lid casting.  NOTE: the "lip" bends up to the rear.

 

 

14K. Orient the metering rod arm in its proper position.

14L. Start running the pump operating lever and countershaft assembly into position.

14M. Line up the flat side of the metering rod arm with the flat surface of the countershaft and slide it through.

 

 

14N. Finish sliding the countershaft through the boss and install the large pin spring to secure the shaft.

 

 

14O. Install the metering rod arm clamp screw just lightly for now.  This screw will hold the left - right position of the arm on the shaft.

 

 

14P. Install the pump connector link from the metering rod arm to the pump plunger rod.

 

 

14Q. Secure the pump connector link with a pin spring at the top end.

 

 

14R. Here, I pumped the countershaft a few times to align the metering rod arm with the "lip" on the vacumeter piston link.  

14S. Secure the metering rod arm tightly to the countershaft with the metering rod arm clamp screw.

 

 

14T. Install the pump check needle.  Blunt end goes in first.

 

 

14U. Install the pump discharge check plug carefully with a flat blade screwdriver.  No gasket used here.

 

 

14V. Install the pump discharge passage plug with the pump discharge passage plug gasket.

14W. Install the pump strainer.  It's a press fit.

 

 

14X. Get the new air horn gasket and the pump jet and housing assembly ready.

 

 

14Y. Install a new air horn gasket.

 

 

14Z. Install the pump jet and housing assembly with two pump jet attaching screws and lock washers.

 

 

 

Next post will complete the bowl lid assembly.....................

[Gary W]

 

 

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY (continued...)

 

 

14. Rebuild the Bowl Cover Assembly.   (Part 2)

 

 

 

The next few steps will be installing and adjusting these parts.

 

 

14AA. Insert the bowl cover strainer into the strainer nut and gasket assembly.  Tighten with a 3/4" wrench.

 

 

14BB. Install the needle seat with a needle seat gasket using a flat blade screwdriver.

 

 

14CC. Hang the needle valve from the float and slowly lower the needle valve into the needle valve seat.

 

 

14DD. Install the float lever hinge pin to temporarily install the float so you can make float level adjustments before the bowl lid gasket is installed.

 

 

14EE. Install the fuel line fitting.

 

 

14FF.  FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENTS.

There are two float adjustments: Lateral and Vertical.  For both adjustments, you invert the bowl cover with NO GASKET and check that the float lip is resting against the seated needle.

Basically, you need to be sure both pontoons measure 3/16" from the center solder seam of the floats (top of the float) to the machined edge of the bare metal casting on both sides.

This ensures the float sits LEVEL (lateral adjustment) and at the correct HEIGHT (Vertical Adjustment).

There is a proper float height adjustment tool for this.  I just measured with a ruler.  Any discrepancies are adjusted by gently bending the arms.

The 3/16" is for the 608S and 608SA and maybe other carburetors, your model may differ.

 

 

14GG. Time to place the new bowl cover gasket. Note the notch lines up with the positive in the pump cylinder.

14HH.  Slide out the float lever pin and remove the float and needle.  *** Careful not to upset your lateral and vertical adjustments.

 

 

14II. Place the new bowl cover gasket, aligning all ports and checking all orifices are open and not covered by the gasket.

 

 

14JJ. Again, hang the needle from the float and lever assembly and guide it into the needle seat.

 

 

14KK. Align the hinge holes and insert the float lever pin.  

 

 

14LL. Turn the cover right side up.  Attach the vacumeter piston to the vacumeter piston link by turning it 90 degrees.

 

 

 

14MM. The vacumeter spring fits up inside the vacumeter piston.  Drop the spring into the bowl (again!) and watch carefully as you lower the lid down onto the bowl.

 

 

14NN. Slide the bowl cover down onto the body, being careful that the vacumeter spring aligns up into the vacumeter piston.

Just watch all around that you are not bending your jets, the floats are setting in right....  everything is coming together.

 

 

14OO. Secure the bowl cover to the body with six bowl cover attaching screws and lock washers.

*** Install the starter switch cable clip to the screw directly above the starter switch.

*** Install the brass Carter "608S" data tag under one of the rear screws.

 

 

Time to install the metering rods.  Part No. 75-459 is standard.  75-488 is lean, 75-489 is for high altitude only.

 

 

14PP. Last few parts to complete the lid.  I used the metering rod itself to gently pull the vacumeter spring away just enough to slide the metering rod through.

 

 

14QQ. Same for the other metering rod.  Slide it through the spring, the casting and down into the metering rod jets down below.

 

 

14RR. Check the action here of all the pump parts.  Everything moves freely.

14SS. Install the dust cover using two dust cover attaching screws and lock washers.

 

 

The Bowl Cover Assembly is complete.

 

 

 

Next post will reassemble the Air Horn/Choke....

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary W]

 

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY (continued...)

 

 

15. Rebuild the Air Horn Assembly.

 

 

Starting in the familiar way of grouping all the air horn parts together for assembly.

 

 

Again, all channels, passageways, cylinders... are blown out clean.

 

 

The Air Horn casting is clean and ready for rebuilding.

 

 

15A. Install the choke piston lever, link and shaft assembly.  That's the actual part name.  I'll refer to it as the choke shaft.

 

 

15B. When the choke shaft is seated, begin lining up the choke piston with its operating cylinder.

 

 

15C. Once aligned, push down on the choke piston while rotating the choke shaft to seat the choke piston in its operating cylinder.

 

 

15D. Align the choke valve holes with the holes in the choke shaft.

 

 

15E. Attach the choke valve with two choke valve attaching screws.

 

You should have a nice easy action here now.  The piston MUST move freely in its cylinder.  

It's the vacuum pulling on that piston that opens your choke plate.   NOT the thermostatic coil unit.

 

 

15F. Install the coil housing baffle plate.

15G. Install the coil housing gasket.

 

 

15H. Install the thermostatic coil and housing assembly.  Note: You first install with indicator marks at the bottom......

15I. Then rotate the housing clockwise to set the index marks according to your carburetor's spec sheet.

 

Operational Note:

The enclosed bimetallic coil functions to CLOSE the choke.  Vacuum acting on the choke piston OPENS the choke.

 

As the coil heats up, it relaxes and allows the piston to open the choke plate.

As the coil cools down, it rotates to close the choke plate.

 

Basically, you need to rotate the housing so the choke plate just touches closed at 65 -70 degrees.  

 

 

15J. From the Carter service manual.  

 

 

15K. Having set it so the choke plate just touches closed, secure the thermostatic coil and housing assembly with three coil housing attaching screws and three coil housing retainers.

 

 

15L. Install the choke lever clamp screw and choke lever clamp nut onto the choke lever.  

This is now called the choke lever and screw assembly.

 

 

15M. Install the choke lever and screw assembly onto the choke shaft.  Don't over tighten it yet, it will need adjustment.

 

 

15N. Secure the finished air horn to the bowl lid with four air horn attaching screws and lock washers.

(Side note: That brass data tag will not stay there!  It interferes with the fast idle connector rod.  I moved it to a rear screw)

 

 

The Air Horn is completed and attached.

 

 

next post will finish up the job installing the rods.

 

 

 

Edited May 10, 2023 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure:  A Step - By - Step photo essay

 

PART THREE:  REASSEMBLY (continued...the last step!)

 

 

16. Install the Throttle Connector Rod and the Fast Idle Connector Rod:

 

 

These are the final parts to complete the carburetor rebuild.

Note:  The small round part way out on the left is what's left of the original throttle connector rod washer, spring and retainer.

The brass part in the middle is Part No. 172-22 "Throttle connector rod retainer".  Easier replacement if your original is rusted or ruined.

 

 

Install the Throttle Control Rod:

16A. Insert the upper end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the pump operating lever.

16B. Insert the lower end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the throttle shaft arm.

 

 

16C. Slide the countershaft pin spring into the groove to secure the upper end of the throttle connector rod to the pump operating lever.

 

 

16D. The lower end of the throttle connector rod is secured using the throttle control rod washer, spring and retainer.  (Or use part No. 172-22 throttle connector rod retainer)

16E. Push in the retainer to compress the spring and turn it 90 degrees to secure it.

 

 

 

Install the Fast Idle Connector Rod:

16F. Rotate the upper end of the fast idle connector rod to line up the upset in the rod with the elongated hole in the choke lever.

16G. Insert the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the choke lever and rotate down to secure the upper end.

 

 

16H. Insert the lower end of the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the fast idle cam trip lever.

16I. Secure the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with a pin spring.

 

 

You are finished with the reassembly of the Carter WCD. 

 

(Notice I did move the brass data tag out of the way of the fast idle connector rod.)

 

 

I made the preliminary adjustments all according to the Carter sheet.  I'll post them in a few days.

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Robuick46]

This is a very good guide for the people who have never done this before. This also takes away the fear of breaking something (if you are careful enough).
I also want to overhaul my Carter 608S carburetor, because it is leaking and the fuel runs back into the tank.
Thank you so much Gary.