47FordCoupe Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Hi Guys, Is possible to repair or replace the rheostat on the light switch? Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 yes, I've seen nos rheostats listed on feebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Thanks, Nothing on there at the moment 😒 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 On 3/30/2023 at 9:34 AM, 47FordCoupe said: Hi Guys, Is possible to repair or replace the rheostat on the light switch? Joe What's it doing? The contacts get dirty and they get flickery. If it's burned out then that's more awkward. By now the switches and rheostats need a good clean and grease. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted April 4 Author Share Posted April 4 Hi Phil, It works on the lowest setting but the slightest movement it stops working. I then have to "twiddle" it and eventually it will come on again at the lowest setting. Anything above low and nothing will happen no matter how much "twiddling" is involved. Regards Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 (edited) If it works on the most dim, the resistance wire is good, the sweep has two detents (formed by two rivets), one at the most clockwise is connected to the sweep arm and shuts the panel lights off completely. Fully counter clockwise is the rivet connected to battery power (or swapped round but connected both ways work the same). If you cannot feel those detents, nor does twisting the knob give a slight "raspy" feel, the sweep arm is likely making poor contact. It is spring loaded but a very simple mechanism and open to dirt and dust getting into it, which can cause the spring to become ineffective. Have you taken the switch out yet? (Also, do you know how it comes apart? It took me a while to figure out, is all) Edited April 5 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 (edited) The rheostat is assembled like this. Plastic top-hat on the left holds the spring in place and also acts to insulate the wiper arm from the frame. That sits on the connector to the left screw lug (not pictured), which is held in with a rivet. The resistance wire attaches to the other end of the sweep but it's not connected on the far end (that connection is performed only by the sweep arm). That all then fits into the ceramic. The connection between the center plate and sweep arm can get dirty, as can the sweep arm to the resistance wire. A good clean might get it working again. I used electronic cleaning fluid (deoxit) and added a little dielectric grease (sold as light bulb grease) to prevent further oxidization. Note that I didn't take it apart, only got inside with a wire brush, using a tool to push the wiper arm up. Diagram is to try help understand the mechanism. Edited April 5 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 I might try that with mine. I have thought about spraying it with the electronics cleaner that you mentioned Phil. Mine works but as you turn the knob the dash lights go off,turn it a little more they come on again,off again,and so forth. I think a good cleaning will definitely help it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 On both the ones I have, the brass had formed a layer of verdigris on all the brass parts, which is very hard. Cleaning the wiper arm, the resistance wire and the rivets with a steel wire brush yielded the best results. I find the least reliable portion of the sweep to be fully counter clockwise where the sweep arm sits the nub that makes contact with the resistance wire into the dimple of the rivet, making contact gently where the corrosion isn't burnished off with use. I'm sure a glass-fiber brush would also work to clean the surfaces up. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted April 6 Author Share Posted April 6 Hi Phil, Thanks for the information Phil, the photo and diagram help a lot. I haven't removed it yet but i am planning to do it this weekend. I believe it removes in a similar way to the one on my 57 Caddy. I remember i struggled to find the location of the release lug/button to remove the switch lever on that. Thanks again, very much appreciated. Regards Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted April 6 Share Posted April 6 (edited) 5 hours ago, 47FordCoupe said: Hi Phil, Thanks for the information Phil, the photo and diagram help a lot. I haven't removed it yet but i am planning to do it this weekend. I believe it removes in a similar way to the one on my 57 Caddy. I remember i struggled to find the location of the release lug/button to remove the switch lever on that. Thanks again, very much appreciated. Regards Joe Correct. Release button is arrowed. Edited April 6 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Thanks Phil, I didn't get round to it over the weekend but will hopefully get onto it this coming weekend. Picture is a great help, it helps to avoid all the fumbling around in a restricted space. Regards Joe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 Hi Guys, I have found the issue and it is a broken rheostat. Pic attached. Is this repairable or should i just jump it from the tail light. If jumping is the best option for now which two terminals do i use Thanks Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 I have seen nos and nors rheostats listed on feebay, currently there's also a nos complete headlight switch for 49-54 Pontiacs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Thanks Pontiac1953, I will have a look at that. I would rather repair mine if possible as shipping to the uk is extortionate on many items, in some caeses paying more for shipping than the part! ☹️ Regards Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 I'm headed to the UK on the 20th, ship one here in the US and I can bring it and mail it on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted May 16 Author Share Posted May 16 Hi Phil, Thank you for the offer, it is very much appreciated. I have tried locating an NOS light switch but with no success. Thanks again Joe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted May 16 Share Posted May 16 No worries. If you find one and they won't ship, I can act as middleman if you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 (edited) Thanks Phil. Really appreciate that. What part of the UK are you visiting? Joe Edited May 18 by 47FordCoupe (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 11 hours ago, 47FordCoupe said: Thanks Phil. Really appreciate that. What part of the UK are you visiting? Joe Southwest, down near Bristol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47FordCoupe Posted Thursday at 08:01 AM Author Share Posted Thursday at 08:01 AM Nice part of the country. Enjoy your trip. Joe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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