tjenkins Posted April 18, 2003 Share Posted April 18, 2003 Comments solicited.My (trusted) mechanic tells me that GM has replaced the rubber bushing/motor mounts with hydraulic, and as a result, up'd the price from $500 to $1000 for all four mounts. Labor to change 'em is $500.Does this sound right?--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juddev Posted April 18, 2003 Share Posted April 18, 2003 I think your mechanic is planning to retire on your money. 500 to install them? what does he get 250 an hour? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted April 18, 2003 Share Posted April 18, 2003 Hydraulic? $1500? Someones playing a joke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juddev Posted April 18, 2003 Share Posted April 18, 2003 They make solid or hydraulic- solid is 103.91 part# EM5030s {westar}hydraulic (westar} EM5030 147.41 tran mount solid em2691 (westar) 21.81 right halftran mount solid EM2548s 28.03tran mount hyd left half EM2548 33.10prices from rockauto.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 18, 2003 Author Share Posted April 18, 2003 So, what does this all cost? If 4, total (solid) parts would be ~$233ish?How much would labor be? He indicated that the AC compressor would have to come off/back on etc.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juddev Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 Top dogbone: 0.5 ----- really 10 minfront tran 1.6 -------really 45 minback tran 0.9 ------really 30 minengine 0.6 -------really 20 min3.6 hours @75.00= 270.00 + 233.00 =503.00 labor cost per hour variesYou could do these yourself and it would pay for a good floor jack.like this one:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47246 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 Let's back up a minute, why and who is suggesting all thease mounts need replacing?At 217,000 miles while I was doing the big swap I pre-purchased the two GM Engine Mounts, tranny was a side project. From what I could see there didn't appear to be, at least externally any signs of deterioriation on the originals.If you've got "noise" better take a good look at the six front cradle bushings!Im just starting on a rear suspension, got a really nice/ complete '90 rear susp. clip including calipers (which I think I'll put a Kit in) My rear is showing some corrosion so for $125. I'm going to change the whole thing out. The rear isolators are also prone to rotting out. It's part design/ part manufacturing process I think. Will have a better idea once i remove the old one. Will spend probably a week in my spare time prepping the new to me one to go in. Will feel much more secure knowing what's under me at Freeway speeds! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 19, 2003 Author Share Posted April 19, 2003 I guess I should have entered a preamble.The 'fix' was an answer to my question. It seems, over the last year, that a vibration is just starting to show up when I have it in gear, and push the brake pedal. When I take it out of gear, I can't feel the vibration in the brakes, only when it's in gear (forward). Nuetral produces no vibrations.The mechanic indicated that perhaps it might be time to R/R the motor mounts.On retrospect, perhaps this was a bit hasty. Can anything else camse this slight vibration upon pressing the pedal?--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Reatta1 Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 How long have you been 'trusting' this mechanic? Between struts and motor mounts, sounds like he is planning on retiring after working on your Reatta. Buick dealer service doesn't even charge that much. Maybe you should ask to see his 'rate' book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 According to TOM and RAY on CARTALK When dealing with a Mechanic Always check out back of the shop to see how big of a boat he owns, and the date the payment is due.It is amazing that the cost of the repair is equal to the payment. It's your lucky day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 And do not forget that a mechanic's hour only has 50 minutes (ShopTrac). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 19, 2003 Author Share Posted April 19, 2003 Ok, point taken <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />I'll call around next week...--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 Betsy Blue: while you are working on the rear wheel setup look for a reasonable way to have the rear wheel straight again. Mine are starting to sag to the outside. Padgett did have a shim thingy as I remember.......thanks...ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 Will do. I've got everything loose and most of it apart now. BBs' existing rear was shimmed last year and, surprise/ surprise, wheel bearings have lasted a whole year now. I've averaged one side or the other ever since I bought the car.I know what the solution is already, from side to side through the lower control arms you have 4 pairs of isolator bushings. Weight and age is relentlessly splaying them outwards. Not practical to shift the top of the strut to compensate so;replace 10 bushings (2 more in the trailing arms)$$$$The price will scare you,or ...... maybe machine brass replacements and make it all solid? or 1/2 of them? the outer ones.And lowering, sure it can be done! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlpeck Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 GM-- You said: "I know what the solution is already, from side to side through the lower control arms you have 4 pairs of isolator bushings. Weight and age is relentlessly splaying them outwards. Not practical to shift the top of the strut to compensate so;replace 10 bushings (2 more in the trailing arms)$$$$The price will scare you,or ...... maybe machine brass replacements and make it all solid? or 1/2 of them? the outer ones."You might have bigger problems than age and weight. I just finished replacing a rear lower control arm with a salvage part and replaced the bushings in the process. (I bent one a long time ago since it was still drivable I hadn't got around to this until now.) Those bushings are about $10 each from Auto Zone, but the labor is a major PITA. Air impact wrench and pneumatic hammer make all the difference. The bushings on the original part were still good at 115K. And no bearing problems, either. Sounds as if you might have other issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 Earlier in this post, the origional poster mentioned the fact that there was a vibration when applying the brakes. This COULD be a warped rotor(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 21, 2003 Author Share Posted April 21, 2003 No. What I meant was, with the vehicle completely stopped, shifted in drive, foot on the brake, I could sense a slight vibration in my foot. Shifted back to neutral, vibration went away.It didn't used to be there a year or so ago...--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orono Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 Do you also feel the vibration during heavy acceleration?I had an 87 Delta (3800 w/ same tranny as Reatta?) with these symtoms and it was the torque converter starting to fail. It is my understanding this is not uncommon in these tranny's.Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted April 21, 2003 Share Posted April 21, 2003 I may have overstated, I've put at least 4 or 5 rear wheel bearings on in seven years/ 180,000 miles. They were all supplied by Canadian Tire in Canada/ manufactured(or remanufactured) by Federal Mogul. At least 2 of them were replaced under warranty. Only one went really bad, bearing noise while cornering, the rest were replaced when there was wheel motion apparent. I service this car so it is reliable when I need it to be.The suspension clip I'm going to install is for the same reasoning. When I did the front end Sub-frame last Fall I was alarmed at the state of deterioration of the isolators.A year or so ago Barney reported an incident of rear suspension failure from weld failure or corrosion/ or in combination. I can see corrosion on my rear clip, one isolator is toast, the suspension is splayed (shimmed to compensate)For $125. I bought a complete rear, for another several hundred I'll have new bushings, rebuilt calipers and a complete assembly I'll have seen and touched myself. And able to rely on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 22, 2003 Author Share Posted April 22, 2003 "Do you also feel the vibration during heavy acceleration?"No.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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