1936 Oldsmobile F-36. 1" Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits...

[philipj]

Just wondering if all 1" wheel cylinder repair kits being sold today are the same? Any brands to avoid or vice-versa, if using them with stock wheel cylinders Delco 5450406, 5450407... Original wheel cylinder repair kits were 5450425, compatible with Dorman 3600 or Raybestos WK21.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 13, 2023 by philipj (see edit history)

[Bloo]

No pistons in that kit, and there probably would be today I think.

 

If all the parts you take out are in good shape, you can clean up and re-use except the cups, those should be new. Lubricate the new parts and bore with sil-glyde. The bores may be shot. Hone them to see. Don't try to hone pits out, just hone to knock down rust and high spots. You absolutely don't want to hone the bore oversize trying to get rid of pits. They will be pitted, mostly in the center where the old shot fluid was sitting.  If pitting is in a spot the rubber cup will run on, the bores can be resleeved. NAPA has cups for sale by size just like the old days, but their online listings are terrible making it very hard find a size or to determine which size you are looking at. It is frustrating that they don't list the most important specification in a searchable way. With some digging you can figure it out.

 

If the boots and the rest of the internal stuff is shot, then you will need whole kits for sure. You would likely get cup expanders in newer production kits that you wouldn't have with the original parts. They are either cone-shaped sheet metal cups that go under the rubber cups, or sometimes the springs are formed into a cup expander shape a the ends. Before cup expanders existed, the residual pressure valve in the master cylinder was responsible for keeping pressure on the cups to keep them sealed. These systems with the master cylinder under the floor can slowly let air in and may require bleeding if the car sits a lot. Cup expanders may not prevent this completely but they help. I don't get hung up over cup expanders. I drive the car a lot and I change my brake fluid every 2 years or so to avoid the corrosion problems, so it's getting bled now and then. It just isn't an issue to me. Your mileage may vary.

 

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[philipj]

Hello Bloo,

 

Thank you for your input here... Knowing that the car has been sitting for a long while (a good stab is 20 years/and I am told there is one frozen wheel, R/F) that means that likely the rest of the wheel cylinders may be corroded... I actually was able to source out original wheel cylinders...

I know, I know, sealed in a box since the 40's, BUT with the advantage being that other than getting new rubber seals and cup expanders, I don't have to hone them and risk having leaks because of pitting, etc...

 

I was surprised to find these kits here:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PY3NZE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

yet they do not have cup expanders, I will try to see what NAPA has and go from there... As for the other find, you cannot beat the price... I just don't know if the Chinese rubber will be goo with the Florida heat in a year... Regarding the master, I will probably rebuilt it, (and interestingly, it seems that early Corvettes use the same configuration under GM# 5450233 instead of GM# 5450272.... Cannot confirm supersession though, maybe the only difference is the bore size) since I am told there is movement there, all the way to the floor!..;)

Edited March 14, 2023 by philipj (see edit history)

[JFranklin]

White Post restorations re-sleeves and rebuilds wheel cylinders.

[Bloo]

Also Brake and Equipment of Minneapolis, MN. I have had sleeving done there with very nice results. They rebuild too, but I have always done that part myself.

 

It depends on whether you want brass or stainless. That's like a Ford vs Chevy debate that goes nowhere, so I won't attempt to solve it. White Post has brass, Brake and Equipment has stainless.