1927 Chrysler 50 overall length?

[Rata Road]

I'm rearranging my garage in advance before I take possession later in the week.

I need the overall length of a 4 cylinder 4 door sedan please, bumper to bumper.

It has a luggage rack on the rear but I can remove that so just the basic length please.

Thanks in advance

[31 LaSalle]

I think it is a 106 inch wheelbase but don't know the overall length

TRY posting your question in the Chrysler section further down the page 

you might get more response good luck enjoy the car

[Twisted Shifter]

 

According to the Classic Car Database (below), the touring car is 153 inches long. Other  models do not have their length listed, but the 106 inch wheelbase is confirmed.

 

https://www.classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=1146&year=1927&model=5267

[Rata Road]

Thanks Twisted for that link. It states 153 inches which I hope is correct as I have 156 inches.... just.

Great news

[Rata Road]

Well I got it home and its longer than 156 inches even after I removed the rear carrier. Managed to get the garage door shut but only after running it up on ramps to go slightly over the rear of MG midget. Anyway its inside.

Nice car, very presentable and looking forward to going through everything.

 

 

[Crusty Trucker]

That's a nice looking sedan. Thanks for posting the pictures. The 153 inch measurement might have been the car's length without one or both bumpers. Anyway, the reference stated the length was for the touring car, not the four door sedan. It may be shorter.

Glad you got it in the garage without having to extend the building. Best of luck with it.

[zdillinger]

Nice looking car. Enjoy it!

[31 LaSalle]

Lovely car color suit it enjoy

 

[Rata Road]

Thanks guys

[viv w]

The chassis frame on all model 50 and 52 cars were the same, no difference in length.  From memory I think my model 52 tourer was 2,3 M in length with bumpers. One must also remember that bumpers were not standard but could be ordered as a factory option or retro fitted with after market ones, so lengths can differ.

 Nice car, just check the distributer drive isn't tight or siezed, as they are prone to breaking. 

[Rata Road]

Thanks Viv. How do I check if the Dist drive is tight? It turns via the steering wheel control lever.

[viv w]

HI rata,

 I replied late last night and see I put 2,3M long when it should be 4,3M long.

 The distributor drive is the right angle drive at the bottom of the distributor, they are made of diecast metal and swell or start crumbling with age. No easy way to check it, other than to take it off the motor and see if it turns freely. If it is hard to turn or stiff then you will have to strip it carefully and clean it out until it turns free. I had one that got so tight it actually kept seizing and stopping the motor completely, but I was lucky that it did not break.

[28 Chrysler]

The distributors on these you may see cracks but the internal bores may get tight and bind. Some have fit a modern VW or Far East distributors to make do.

If you redo the boars it will not stop the ageing of the alloy. I have a Ford distributor in the shop that has no outside cracking but will not turn freely.

[Rata Road]

Ok I might check it out at some stage. I have a spare in the parts box I see.

Thanks for your feedback guys.

Today I got the brake light working plus adjusted the "rear wheels only" mechanical brakes. I'm impressed with how good these brakes are although I live in a flat town.

Next job is the annoying engine vibration

[f.f.jones]

8 hours ago, viv w said:

I replied late last night and see I put 2,3M long when it should be 4,3M long.

Wow, that's over 169 inches long (14+ feet). Does that include a trunk/rack and/or a rear mounted spare tire? Is that length with the top up or down?

[viv w]

4,3 M was with front and rear bumpers and rear mounted spare wheel, no trunk and with the top up.

 A word of caution on the brakes, they work quite well but if you get caught out driving in heavy rain, the water on the external type brakes makes them very poor, even with 4 wheel hydraulics on these early Chryslers.

Drive with extreme caution and lots of stopping distance in the wet.

[Rata Road]

Update - I've removed the rear carrier.

 

For future reference - Overall length of my car from the bottom of the spare wheel (sticks out a little further than the rear bumpers) to the front bumper is 13`7" (4.13 m)

Width is 5`71/2" at front and 5`81/2" at the rear (the bumper is the widest point at the rear).

 

 

[wayne sheldon]

I would like to reiterate viv w's comment about outside brakes in the rain!

Many years ago, I had a 1925 Studebaker (standard) coach. A very nice car that I had completed a good cosmetic restoration of a solid good original car. I drove that car a lot! And rain wasn't going to stop me. I had some earlier experiences with antique automobiles in the rain, so was well prepared. One night, heading home from a busy weekend, I got caught in a heavy rainstorm! The car was a good runner, and I maintained 50 mph on the freeway for about twenty miles without any need to touch the brakes!

As I went to exit the freeway, heading toward a red traffic light, I reached for the hand brake (which operated on a drum behind the transmission). Planning well ahead, and being curious to how the service brake would do under such conditions, I pressed the brake pedal. And nothing changed! The brake pedal went its usual halfway down, but the car did not slow down at all! So I went back to my plan A, and used the hand brake. It had stayed dry enough to work like normal, and stopped the car just fine, with a bit of caution for wet road surfaces.

Over the years, I have instructed quite a few people in operating antique automobiles. Usually, I will mention that anyone driving antique automobiles SHOULD practice stopping the car using the hand or emergency brake! One should know how it reacts, how it acts, and get used to the idea that it IS there for a reason! Mechanical or hydraulic brakes does not matter! Any braking system CAN fail, especially if it is more than a couple decades old! A good driver should know and be ready to use the emergency brake if needed!

 

The service brake in the rain will wipe itself dry enough to work in a short distance. But it also will be squirrely when it begins to work, and may grab suddenly on only one side! Plan ahead, and be prepared to use either or both!

[Rata Road]

Thanks Wayne. I have Model T's as well so I'm experienced in driving with poor brakes. I havent struck any rain yet but I find the rear only brakes in the Chrysler very effective, much better than any of my T's but I will consider your advice if I ever get caught in the wet.