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1930 Studebaker Commander 8 Coolant Leak


RowdyRuggles

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I have got a coolant leak on my 1930 Studebaker Commander 8. I took a photo underneath the engine that I have attached. It appears the leak is coming from the area were that line of nuts is located. Isn't that the oil pan?  I suppose it could be oil, but looks greenish, like coolant. Does anyone have experience with sealing this or what needs to be done?

IMG_4764 copy.jpg

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You'd better hope it isn't coming from there. I'll bet it isn't. I'm seeing a petcock just to the left. What is that? Whatever it is, there's probably coolant in it. Follow the bottom of that over to the block and see if you can find the source of the leak. If that is a water pump, it is probably even supposed to leak a little. Maybe not very much though. If it is coming from a packing nut on the water pump, the trick is to tighten it to almost stop the leak without completely stopping it. Packing type water pumps use a wee bit of coolant to lubricate the shaft and packing. Without it they burn up.

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I have a 31 Nash so just guessing here.  What I see in the pic is the oil pan. Yes it looks like antifreeze. Above that looks to be a dirt shield. On top you may fine an engine cover. This would be bolted to the side of the engine. One side holds in coolant the other side oil. I suspect your coolant cover is leaking.

Edited by 31nash880
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The green drop of liquid is certainly coolant.  But it may be coming from a higher point on the block and just collecting, on the outside of the oil pan. 

 

I would pressure test the coolant system; be careful and not too high of pressure.  And really look  closely , on the block where there seems to be some rust tracks.  Something is going on there. 

 

intimeold

Edited by intimeold (see edit history)
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Check for the leak with the engine running.  Wipe it as dry as you can to see where it's seeping.  Here are some places to look:

1.  Water pump drive shaft.  Tighten packing nut a little with engine running if leaking here.  May need re-packing.  

2.  Hose from top of pump to cover on side of block.  Also, lower hose from radiator.

3.  Stamped steel cover on side of block.  Bolts (5/16-18 x 1-3/4) go though cover into block, copper-asbestos crush washers under bolt heads to seal to cover, gasket between cover and block.  Over-tightening bolts probably won't help.  Bolts can be rusted into block, tough to move.  Copper washers available as AN900-5 from Aircraft Spruce airplane parts.  Replace bolts with stainless steel ones if you take them out. Cover could be rusted through, but no new replacements available.  Water baffle spot welded on inside of cover will probably be seriously rusted.

4.  If water pump has grease cups, be sure they are filled with grease as water can come out of cups.

 

1930 Studebaker Commander (CC-1340319) for sale in West Pittston, Pennsylvania

 

commander8_engine_1929.jpg.de8c42db794452139b46294a6a6fe7de.jpg

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