1949 Chrysler Windsor Fluid Drive Transmission

[Tewwillis]

Hello,

I am buying a 49 Windsor with a fluid drive transmission. Do these transmissions need adjusting?

Also what type of oil / transmission fluid, oil should I use in it - & also does the fluid need changing periodically?

Many thanks

Tom

[61polara]

There are no adjustments on these transmissions other than the shift linkage if the shift linkage will not go into a gear.  Use the search function to search the forum for your other questions.  There have been many questions answered here about this transmission.  

[Tewwillis]

Thanks Dave appreciate it. This is my 1st one so I need all the help I can get. Thanks again

[Rusty_OToole]

This was one of the first efforts at an automatic transmission. It has characteristics of an automatic, and of a manual transmission and requires its own driving technique. Easy to learn but not so easy to figure out for yourself.

 

They are a very simple rugged system that seldom go wrong. When they do it is usually due to frayed electric wiring,low fluid, or at worst dirty contact points in the governor. All easy, cheap things to fix.

 

The transmission and fluid drive unit are separate. Transmission fluid should be changed every 10000 miles. Fluid drive is a sealed unit and does not need to be changed but should be checked and topped up every 10000 miles or as necessary.

 

There were a couple of long threads in 2008 in the Chrysler section that tell all you need to know on operation and servicing these trannies. A quick search for Fluid Drive should turn them up.

Edited November 3, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Tewwillis]

Thanks, appreciate your help. I'm not sure how to find the Chrysler section, but will try. Is there a certain type of oil to use in the fluid drive and transmission? Also will the Chrysler section have a contact for a repair manual?

Thanks again

[Rusty_OToole]

Preferred fluid is TDH tractor fluid, ISO22 or ISO32 grade. You can get it at Walmart, farm stores and auto parts stores. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic fluid.

 

10W non detergent motor oil is also good if you can find it. But the TDH is better, and easier to get.

The factory printed thousands of repair manuals, every Dodge and Chrysler dealer had one. They turn up on Ebay and at flea markets with literature vendors. There are other manuals available from various publishers. Usually an abridgement of the factory literature. MoToR Repair manuals, Chilton's etc.

 

About the driving technique. I like to start the engine and let it warm up until it will idle down to 400RPM (the recommended setting). With the hand brake on, step on the clutch, shift into gear and release the clutch completely. Then release the brake, step on the gas and drive away like an automatic. When you hit 14MPH lift off the gas pedal, you should hear a soft *click-clack* as it shifts into high. Now step on the gas and go someplace. When you come to a stop no need to touch the clutch, stop and then drive away as if it was an automatic, when you reach 14 MPH  lift off the gas etc. It should shift down automatically when you stop, if not the contacts in the governor may need cleaning.

 

There are only 3 positions to the gear shift. Toward you and up - reverse, straight up - low range, straight down - high range.

 

Low range is for starting on hills or driving thru deep snow, sand or mud. Or when towing a trailer. In low range the upshift occurs at 6 MPH if you lift off the gas.

 

High range is for all normal driving.

 

Reverse make de kah go backwards.

 

That about covers it, if you have any questions I will try to answer them.

[Rusty_OToole]

Preferred fluid is TDH tractor fluid, ISO22 or ISO32 grade. You can get it at Walmart, farm stores and auto parts stores. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic fluid.

 

10W non detergent motor oil is also good if you can find it. But the TDH is better, and easier to get.

The factory printed thousands of repair manuals, every Dodge and Chrysler dealer had one. They turn up on Ebay and at flea markets with literature vendors. There are other manuals available from various publishers. Usually an abridgement of the factory literature. MoToR Repair manuals, Chilton's etc.

 

About the driving technique. I like to start the engine and let it warm up until it will idle down to 400RPM (the recommended setting). With the hand brake on, step on the clutch, shift into gear and release the clutch completely. Then release the brake, step on the gas and drive away like an automatic. When you hit 14MPH lift off the gas pedal, you should hear a soft *click-clack* as it shifts into high. Now step on the gas and go someplace. When you come to a stop no need to touch the clutch, stop and then drive away as if it was an automatic, when you reach 14 MPH  lift off the gas etc. It should shift down automatically when you stop, if not the contacts in the governor may need cleaning.

 

There are only 3 positions to the gear shift. Toward you and up - reverse, straight up - low range, straight down - high range. Clutch pedal is only needed for shifting into gear or changing from one range to another.

 

Low range is for starting on hills or driving thru deep snow, sand or mud. Or when towing a trailer. In low range the upshift occurs at 6 MPH if you lift off the gas.

 

High range is for all normal driving.

 

Reverse make de kah go backwards.

 

That about covers it, if you have any questions I will try to answer them.

[Rusty_OToole]

I might add, you are not supposed to slip the clutch when starting off. The clutch is very small and it is not necessary. I have seen drivers slipping the clutch like mad, trying to take off like a manual trans, and it doesn't work. This one driver ended up burning out the clutch. Just release the clutch and let the fluid drive do the rest.