1932 Canadian Oldsmobile DCR

[chistech]

2 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Ted, I see your brother is working on his project too.

Actually that’s a ‘71 442. Gilly, who painted my 32 olds, needed some space to finish it for a customer so I traded some future service for the space. Probably going to be setting up the inflatable paint booth behind my garage on a nice calm day so he can paint it. 

[Ozzy1932]

It’s is now everything that is wasn’t for a very long time. It’s taken a big leap in the few months that you’ve had it. I feel good about this car becoming what it should be again. 

[chistech]

I forgot to get some pictures but the olds left this past Saturday with Brian back to New York to get all the finish bodywork and paint done. Then it’ll be coming back to be completely finished. 

[JV Puleo]

I'm glad I got to see it before it left...it will be a treat to see it again when the body work is done.

[demco32]

chistech, is this the car that come on you tube when you type in '1932 oldsmobile' ?

I'm conrad for Belgium and just got a nice 1932 oldsmobile. 

[chistech]

On 6/11/2023 at 12:37 PM, demco32 said:

chistech, is this the car that come on you tube when you type in '1932 oldsmobile' ?

I'm conrad for Belgium and just got a nice 1932 oldsmobile. 

Hello Conrad. If you’re talking about the video (attached below)by Mike’s Classic Auto World which came up at the top of the page, that is actually my own ‘32 Oldsmobile DCR and the car in this thread is an identical model. When done it will basically look and be the same other than the colors. I didn’t even realize that video with my own car was on YouTube. That was at the AACA Grand National down in VA. That is where my car was awarded its Sr. Grand National award.

     Congratulations on your own Oldsmobile. Be sure to post some pictures here. There’s not a lot of them around and those who own them make up a small group who help each other out.

 

 

Edited June 13, 2023 by chistech (see edit history)

[demco32]

I'm very happy with the Oldsmobile. (sorry if my writing is not so good but , i dit not learn English ) Your car is very nice too and i love the dark blue.

I will post pictures later 

I wonder if there is a rebuild kit for the water pump or if it's possible to get a new one.

About this car; i think it is the only one in Europe.

Regards.

[chistech]

My car is black not blue with cream door saddles and pinstripes. What are you looking for to rebuild your water pump? If you’re looking for the two steel covers over the oil cooler core those are impossible to find and have to be reconstructed or bypassed. There is a red and gray 32 roadster in Switzerland that I know of.

[demco32]

sorry , it looks like blue. I know more next week when the car will be in my shop.  the pump is stuck. ( not rotating )disconnected from the generator shaft. engine can run for short time now.

 

 

[chistech]

I have some pump parts, Shafts can be made and all the seals are available. If i remember, one bearing is a little hard to find but I believe I found an NOS New Departure one. Let me know what you’re looking for.

[demco32]

Ok, thank u. I will know more next week. I have metal work equipment and woodworking tools too. I appreciate you're help.

Regards.

 

[demco32]

Hello, the olds is arrived in the shop. first thing is locating the vin number. Do you know  the location of vin number, sir? there is a riveted tag plate on driversite fire wall but that is not ok for registration in Belgium. Need to find vin number is frame off car. Tomorrow I'm goin remove the water pump to find out wat's wrong with it.

 

[JV Puleo]

Christech will be able to help you but keep in mind that there were no "vin numbers" in 1932. The cars had serial numbers and there was no regulation stating how or where those were stamped.

[JV Puleo]

Re the Pennsylvania number..."DCR" is Deluxe Convertible Roadster. Perhaps someone else can explain the number attached to it. DCR by itself describes the body.

And yes, the Serial Number is on the tag you illustrate. The conventional seventeen-digit VIN numbers were only standardized in the 1981. Prior to that there were such numbers but no standard format. All pre-war cars have serial numbers and I find it had to believe the Belgian authorities do not know this.

 

Keep in mind that in the US auto registration is a function of the individual states so there are 50 different sets of regulations. Though similar (they are all after tax revenue) they often use different ways of identifying a car. This is especially true with pre-war cars since practically no one in authority has any idea what the proper markings are. It can be a huge problem here as well.

Edited June 17, 2023 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[chistech]

Your sill tag has me a little confused. If you look at the picture of mine the serial number is DCR 14071 and the engine number, 306343, is what is stamped on my engine, frame, and the sill plate itself. All serials in the F models started at 302001 and ended at 316568 mark I believe. Your cowl plate should have a 32418 stamped in it for convertible roadster model.

     Your DCR16190 is your car’s production number and is often used on the titles. Your F308643 number is your engine and chassis number. If you look on the front of the engine where the fan pulley bracket is attached, look down from the top of the head and there is a flat protrusion on the block right where the fan pulley bracket is attached and your engine number is stamped on that protrusion. The other 388888 number I have no idea as that number is beyond 1932 engine numbers. I was thinking it could possibly have a difference 32 engine and that’s why the number would be different but again, it’s not in the range of 1932engine numbers.

     I recognize this car that was sold a couple years back through an auction house I believe called Nancy’s. It was a southern car so Alabama tells me it’s got to be the same car. The only difference was it had a large trunk on it. The motor was also painted gray so it tells me it is most likely the same car. 
     Is the information from PA the latest info or was it earlier information before the car went to Alabama? The reason I ask is if the sill plate doesn’t ave the DCR16190 on it, how did the PA paperwork have it? your car is one of 333, 6 cylinder wire wheeled DCR’s ever made and I know of 10-12 cars left known worldwide. I have still only been able to locate 3 of the 249 6 cylinder wood wheeled DCR’s ever produced. 
       You have a very nice example that was done very close to original. I manufacture, along with a good friend, some new parts that replace things that can’t purchased from any other supplier. Things like springs to rubber pedal closeouts and shifter surrounds. Let me know what you need on the water pump. Be careful with disassembling it as the casting is fragile in some places. 

[demco32]

Thanks for sharing this information. (Perhaps someone else can explain the number attached to it.) There is some abbreviations on top op title. MFR's. NO and that refers to DCR 16190 but i have no idea wat is MFR'S. NO.

 

[demco32]

Thanks for your information sir.

To answer your question i added a pic. of the Alabama document it shows an identification number F308643.

I have the truck too.

Because i have an Alabama document i could find some info on the internet and find this pic's so now i know it is this car you refer to.

I find out about the engine number on the tag plate.

someone dit i wrong i believe now.

I check the place on frond of engine and yes there is the number they used on the tag as serial number!

On pic you see the casting number on the cilinder heat but that is wrong i believe.

This is going to be a big problem to get this Oldsmobile on the road.

I'm going to need a new tag and stamp the correct numbers in it.

But is available is the big question.

I have the correct info now, engine number is correct, type of car too.

Type number as on title is no were to be found on the car and that is wat should be on the tag as serial number i believe.

Could you send me an e-mail sir, it is easier for me and to mail about the parts i may need.

verco66@telenet.be.

 

 

[demco32]

 

There is no Alabama title it is an Pennsylvania title, sir.

"Your cowl plate should have a 32418 " question; wat is that number you refer too, sir ?

 

 

[demco32]

Water pump is of the engine.

I don't know the name in English for it but it is that big nut with the hole for axel in it that is stuck in that nut.

The thread got some damage too.

Some one welded the impeller on the shaft too and i think that part needs to come of to remove the axel.

Looks like it should disassemble from inside pump to outside.

Are the damage parts available?

  

 

 

[chistech]

The big nut is the packing nut. That should spin freely on the shaft and you should be able to free it up. Clean the shaft up in front of the nut with a strip of sandpaper the move it onto the sanded area and do the same behind it. Just clean it up, don’t over sand the shaft. Then move the nut back to where it goes and see if you can get it to start in the threads some. Then clean up the shaft in front of the front bearing the same way. Once the shaft is cleaned up, support the flange of the back of the housing and try tapping the shaft with the impeller back. It will go out through the rear. The shaft might be stuck on the front bearing but if it’s good, try using penetrating oil rather than heat as the front bearing is somewhat hard to get. Your impeller is In very good shape even if it’s welded and if your shaft is not worn in the packing area, i would just reinstall it as it is. 
      I will get my pump parts out and take some pictures for you to reference. You will need some graphite pump packing when you put the pump back together. That goes behind that big nut and the nut is tightened enough to prevent the water from leaking by the shaft. 
      On your registering in Belgium, I don’t understand what the problem is. That F308643 is a valid number to register it with. The 32418 is the year, 1932, and 418 is the number body style, convertible roadster. That aluminum plate should be on the drivers side upper engine side of the firewall. The aluminum tag you show is calling a sill tag and should be nailed to the floor on the passenger side near the front corner of seat by the door threshold plate. If you look closely at my picture you should be able to understand where it goes. If the tag you show is on your cowl then it’s in the wrong location and your original cowl tag is missing. I don’t have my Olds at home but I’ll take a picture of the cowl tag in my chevy that in the correct location. There is a company that makes up new cowl tags and you could have one made as you have the correct numbers to have it stamped with. I can get you all that info. 

[bradsan]

Just a comment on the photos of engine numbers you have provided .

I'm not an Olds guy but I'm presuming that Olds followed Buick and others at GM as well as most manufacturers of the period.

The numbers you have shown ( 888888-1 and 399859)  are not the numbers that Ted is talking about . The numbers you are showing are casting numbers and will be the same for every piece (block, head,etc)  that comes out of the same series of casting. The number Ted is talking about will be stamped on a small protrusion of the block casting the sticks out past the head.  It will be on the same plane as the top surface of the block or 'deck' as its called in North America. Hopefully Ted can send you a picture of what you should be looking for .

Whoever decided to stamp the head casting number on your ID tag did not know what they were doing!

 

As a word of caution, I would be a careful with posting full pictures of titles with other's personal information and your full vehicle information. You may want to edit that one picture. or remove it! The regular users of this forum are by far a friendly honest bunch but everyone in the world can view this forum and at least some may view it with bad intentions.

 

Brad

[chistech]

I noticed in one of your pictures that your sill tag is mounted on your cowl which is incorrect but it’s okay if you’re okay with it. If you want to have the correct cowl tag made I can get you more information about getting a new one reproduced and I can get a picture of the one on my own car so you know where it goes. Then the tag on your cowl can be moved to the inside sill where it belongs.Here is a picture of a cowl tag on a 1930 chevy I currently have in for some work. This is the tag on the olds that would have the 32418 for the convertible roadster number and it would also have the body number which is 16190.looking down from the top of a spare motor I have you can see the stud that the fan pulley bracket is mounted on. The engine number is on the flat and the number is visible in this picture.Here are the components of a badly worn water pump I have. You can see the shaft comes out with the impeller attached by driving out through the rear of the pump. The shaft on this pump is badly worn in the packing area, the bushing at the rear is badly worn, and the countersunk face of the packing nut is badly pitted. The countersunk face could be turned on a lathe to make it smooth again but the shaft and bushing would need to be replaced.Here is the front bearing, the pitted packing nut face, the worn shaft with a worn impeller.Here is the back of the rear bushing that is in bad shape.Here’s a picture of the inside of that rear bushing which is as large as the bore and also countersunk to accept the graphite packing. I have never seen this bushing offered anywhere and if yours is worn, a new one will have to be machined.here is a picture of the front bearing and it’s retaining wire on a spare good pump housing. It is a New Departure bearing #8103 I believe but I will double check. This bearing is special shielded and I luckily found NOS to replace mine. It can be replaced with a newer style bearing with no issue I believe.

 

Hope all this helps. If you can’t get parts or your packing nut or housing is stripped of threads i have the two pieces shown but you will need both the packing nut face machined and the old bushing pressed out, then a new one made and installed.

Edited June 18, 2023 by chistech (see edit history)

[demco32]

to bradsan; it is the first time i come on a forum so thank u for caution warning.

It is more difficult for me because of language. 

Yes, some one stamped the casting number on the tag on firewall's driverside.

But that is not the engine number i know now , chistech is a great help. I appreciate it a lot.

 

[demco32]

To chistech.

Problem with registration in Belgium is like this.

We have to go to a technical control centrum and they inspect the complete car.

For identification they use the tile but that number is not on the car.

My tag on car shows engine number stampt in place for serial number, and they used a casting number as engine number so that is completely wrong.

Your tag shows as serial number DCR..... and that is correct, that number is on my title too so that would be my identification number on the tag and would be ok for technical control/ identification.

Position of tag is not important for registration / technical control .

I'm going to have a new tag with correct information i correct place serial number DCR.... and engine number as shown in front of engine ( and not the casting number )

 

About the water pump.

I just got it disassembled.

There is a little pin that go in the impeller and the schaft.

with a little bit of heat lossend the impeller.

Shaft is worn out a little bit but i can make a new one.

My Pic nr.2 shows axle with bearing still on it, beneath that bearing are 2 metal rings and they are not good anymore.

your pic nr.6 shows that graphite pakking and i was wondering wat it was.

About the bearing on your last pic.

Mine is a new one : SKF explorer 6002-2RSH/C3GJN is the number on it.

Should there be like a cap on that glass ?

 

 

 

 

  

[chistech]

The graphite packing material is most likely still inside your pump as it gets compressed between the rear bushing face and the packing nut. The graphite packing is available at many antique restoration shops. Maybe someone can chime in where to purchase it. I found mine at Hershey PA one year. 
     Your pump shaft looks to be two different diameters with the larger diameter running through the bearing all the way to the impeller. I haven’t measured mine but I would suspect it’s .500 the entire length. In the picture it appears your pump shaft was made oversized to most likely remedy a worn out bushing. 
     The decarbonizer with the glass jar gets a tin can mounted on the top. I had a new can made for mine by a company called Victor Trading. The label for the can used to be available from a fellow 32 Olds owner called Gene Weider.Here’s a picture of my data plate. It lists the 32418 as the job # and the body number as 207. With a total of almost 1200 roadsters made, 6&8 cylinder, my car was most likely a first quarter production based on the 207 being early in the 1200 total and my chassis/motor number 306345. Your number is more than 2000 cars later so I would assume your car, based on a total of 19000+- cars made, 4500 per quarter, that your car was most likely produced the middle of the second quarter of production. You really don’t have a true body number on any paperwork but it would be an educated guess to figure your body number to be somewhere close to the middle of the roadster production around 485-560 range. You could basically pick any number in that range if you had your cowl tag reproduced.here’s a picture of my olds and the location of the cowl tag.Here is the decarbonizer with the tin can on top. The lever cam on the wire loop secures it to the decarbonizer frame. There is normally a brass tube with a sharpened end that sticks up from the decarbonizer body that punctures the can.

[demco32]

Thank you, Ted.

I appreciate it a lot for your information and effort posting the photo's.

When looking to your car photo's make it possible to find out wat is wrong with my car and it looks like there are a few problems.

 photo 1 ; now i understand there should be 2 different data plates / identification plates on the car. The plate in your photo is not on the car and the previous one (data plate with serial & engine number) i have ,but it got the  wrong  information stamped  on it and it is in wrong place too.

Do you know where i can order new data plates  and the  rivets to install it correctly ?( these rivets  look like nails )

photo 2; i see more problems with my car.

above the glass jar mount i spot 2 metal tubes for rubber hoses i assume for a heater ; there are not on my car and no heater parts inside the car too.

Rubber grommets for the electric wiring ( i find it weird that electric wires have no protection going trough metal parts )

photo 3 ; 1- i see the rubber hoses that go to a faucet , but were is the other go to?

2-I assume that the black metal cilinder should be the oil filter and that is missing too on my engine. (i was wondering were the oil filter was on this engine )

( Citroën didn't have one on there pre war cars so i was a bit confused )

It's going to be a problem were to find the oil filter and parts for it.

3-the green paint would be the correct color and not gray like on my engine ? do you know the paint code. (looks like the green from Volvo marine engines )

Conrad.

 

 

 

 

[demco32]

about the water pump shaft.

The smaller diameter is the generator side, not the impeller side.

Found it weird that it is smaler then the generator axel. 

[chistech]

21 hours ago, demco32 said:

about the water pump shaft.

The smaller diameter is the generator side, not the impeller side.

Found it weird that it is smaler then the generator axel. 

Yes, that is incorrect and the pump shaft is one diameter from the generator end to the impeller. 

[demco32]

Hallo Ted, do you know where i can order new data plates  and the  rivets to install it correctly ?( these rivets  look like nails )

[chistech]

The reproduction sill tag is currently available on Ebay from a guy in Poland. Auction number is 181311769347.  For the cowl tag you need to contact A. G. Backeast, PO Box 40011, Grand Junction CO, 81504. Email is dataplt@bresnan.net or datatags.com         I have gotten one from him for a 31 Chevy that was an exact duplicate of the original. You will most likely have to send him a picture of mine and you will have to tell him what to stamp on it as we discussed earlier. The Job Number would be the 32418. The Body number you have to determine as I mentioned previously. I would think something like a 506 or 521 or anything in between should be about right based on your chassis number.

The rivets for installing can be a couple different things. You can use aluminum rivets or you can use small chrome carriage bolts with nuts. They carriage bolts are used in small light fixtures or even headlights to mount the bottom mount to the bucket. The head is about .500 in diameter. I've also used aluminum flat head rivets with spring steel push nuts on the back as the inner firewall has a pad that covers the back side of whatever fastener you choose to use. The small stainless steel carriage bolts can be had from places like the Bolt Depot in MA. 10-24 X 1/2" works fine and the .500 head is about right for the cowl tag. The data plate simply gets nailed into the wood with small nails at each corner.

 

My car has the correct Harrison Senior hot water heater that was a dealer installed accessory. You do not need a heater in your car to be correct but if you do install one, the Harrison Sr. was the the only correct one. I have a copy of the factory technical bulletin for the installation of the water heater. It shows how to install all the plumbing.

 

The oil filter canister is an original and they can be somewhat hard to find but they are out there. The filter lines are hard to bend but can be done. There used to be a company making reproductions that had a modern filter inside the can but I'm not sure if they're still being made.

 

The green engine paint is or was available from Bill Hirsch. Not sure if they're still in business as I've heard a couple stories. 

 

Not sure what rubber grommets you're referring to but they are available on the internet and most were found in local hardware stores here in the states. The upper middle grommet with the three holes is custom made and can be had from a fellow 32 olds owner who casts them in two part urethane. He also casts them with the proper metal insert. His name is Joe Pirrone of Severance CO. He and I also make many other reproduction parts for the Oldsmobiles. 

[demco32]

Ted I'm happy you are willing to help me. I like to have the car as original as possible but finding information on the internet is difficult. Specially for me because i don't know the  English name for every part to look for. Translation from Dutch to English is not always correct with translate program on computer. 

I inspected the car so far and find a lot off problems but I'm going to repair or replace everything so the car is going to be neer perfect.

I got the oldtimer microbe from an older men / customer who is a Cadillac men and I dit repairs and maintenance work for him.

About A.C.Backeast.

https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=169325.0 

https://vymaps.com/US/A-g-Backeast-Tags-1677491399209577/

Looks like there is a problem with this A.C. Backeast but I'll find out.

Thanks for the information concerning the body number, i assume that would be the production number like how many they make in that year 1932.

.500 would that be  insh ?

I ordered the plate in Poland.

 

For the water heater ; do you have a photo so i know wat to look for on the internet. different type come on when i type Harrison senior....

The technical bulletin would be a great help, i like to have things correctly done.

 

The engine should have an oil filter.

maybe a close photo from yours ?

I wonder if that is like a metal canister with a removable filterelement inside.

If it would be like that i can reproduce one wen i have details and size info.

 

Paint is not a big problem, it looks a lot like the color on the Volvo marine engines.

 

The rubber grommets; the photo from your firewall shows the electric wires in rubber parts for protection against the metal.

I was refer to that photo, sir.

We need blinkers (mandatory to have car street legal ) and i think to adapt the wing lights to dual filament lamps.

For the rear of the car is an other issue.
 

[chistech]

I tried the phone of backeast and it is disconnected. What is strange is I got the information from a fresh add in a car magazine dated 3/23! I don’t know if there is anyone else making them. I’ll have to ask around.

 

The body number for the cowl tag, if you can get one, somewhere around 480-530 is based on where your car’s serial number puts it in the total production of all 32 olds body styles. Your serial number puts it right around the early middle of total production. With just a little less than 1200 convertible roadsters in total made, picking any one number in that 480 to 530 range, (493 for example) would be appropriate to recreate the cowl tag. The cowl tag has the job number, 32418, which is the number for the convertible roadsters so that means that one cowl tag with that job number was made for each roadster, and that just less than 1200 of those tags were produced. 
 

Attached is the picture of the Harrison Senior “tombstone” water heater. Harrison made a smaller version for Chevrolet which were private labeled for chevy but some weren’t. The Sr. heater if about 2-3 inches taller than the smaller version. I am looking for my factory technical bulletins for installing it.

 

There were a few Buick parts guys who were offering the oil filters that had a modern canister filter inside. Maybe someone reading this can help out with more information. Mine is an original I obtained.

 

A good automotive store or even the internet should be able to get you the grommets.

 

My own cars wiring harness is new and I ordered the electronic directional lighting built into it. My front fender marker lights flash along with the corresponding taillight. You will have to get a column switch and wire in separate lights. I believe someone was talking about a wireless set of directionals (blinkers).

[demco32]

Hello, Ted.

maybe the store or shop is closed because of illness or.... a lot can happen in our daily live. 

There is a place in the Netherlands ; https://dataplates4u.com  but he only can make plate in stainless steel .

As far as i can see they are made with a milling machine and not embossed like original in aluminium.

He is expensive too.

I'm stil look on the internet to find a shop that can make them.

Serial number 493 would do just fine.

Thanks for the photo from the Harrison, now i know wat to look for. I want things done the correct way.

I think if i have the correct measurements for the oil filter i can make one. Just the sticker would be a problem.

Is it like a canister with a lid that can be unscrewed?

The flow of the oil is important too i think, is oil coming in the filter from the top hole in engine blok?

I can't see good on photo where the oil lines are correct mounted.

The grommets are no problem, i restore Jaguars and have them from the UK.

In Belgium you wil not find them.

Is it possible to order a new wiring harnas? Do you know the company, sir?

I have the same idea then you about the   directionals or blinkers.

The water pump is almost ready.

I made a new shaft and bushing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[demco32]

Is the oil cooler in your car connected? sir.

 

[chistech]

Hello Conrad,

if you go to the restoration thread on my own car, many of your questions will be answered because there’s a lot of detailed pictures. You will see the oil filter lines. Also, there is very little oil flow through the filter and many times people didn’t even use them. The sticker is reproduced and can be found at many of the restoration parts suppliers. My car is at another garage and I probably will be going to get it in about a week. I can take measurements then.

 

I usually use Rhode Island wiring for all my antique car restoration work but they don’t have a pattern for the 32 Oldsmobile. I used YnZ in California for my Olds harness and ordered the electronic directionals pre wired in. It was kind of expensive and would estimate now around $1000 but the fender lights and tail lights will operate as directionals so you will need to add nothing else and the car looks 100% original. A small discrete toggle switch that operates the left or right gets mounted where ever you choose (I mounted mine just under the edge of the dash to the left of the steering column where it can’t be seen. Most of the wire ends are overly long at the lights and will need trimming. I believe the horn wires were just long enough. You will need to order the small nickel or brass wire end buttons with it so you can connect the wires to your bulb connections. It’s a very nice harness that’s plug and play.

 

 

 

[chistech]

1 hour ago, demco32 said:

Is the oil cooler in your car connected? sir.

 

Yes, mine is connected and has the original metal covers. Your covers were recreated by someone and are difficult to make. The most important thing about connecting the oil cooler, especially with non original covers, is that no water leaks by the cover to oil cooler core connections as you could get water into your oil. The Canadian roadster was manufactured with brass oil cooler covers that I have never seen before Brian, the owner, is very lucky to have those as they won’t rust out. I have been contemplating making some covers up out of SS. I will need to make up a die for some of the forming then figured the rest would be tig welded, ground smooth, and polished. I could probably sell every single 32 olds owner a set but they wouldn’t be cheap. There would be a lot of work entailed in making them up and making them correctly.

[demco32]

Good day Ted, i assume for you is is now about -6hours than my time whish is now almost 20.00h evening.

I wil look to your restoration thread. By the look of it it was a big job.

I found a heather in Canada. Maybe not 100% the richt one but it is advertised as a 1930-1932 model for GM.

It could work i believe. 

Chance the look of metal netting  and have it in chrome by the look of yours. 

https://www.autosparks.co.uk should you ever need wiring looms for a car that you can't find. Sparks in the Uk a very good comp.

I restore Jaguar's and order all looms from them. there is a long waiting time.

About the turn signals or blinkers, its mandatory the have a steering column switch so i have to go for that mounting.

Hope to find an antique one.

I find this one google ' ynz's yesterday parts' if this is the one you refer to.

If so i will order a wire loom for the olds and the correct grommets if they have them.

 

About the oil cooler.

The screws are solid ('stuck' a believe it is also good word for it, sorry my English is not so good , can read and understand good but writing is difficult for me)

I'm afraid the cast iron wil crack when put to mush forse on them.

My covers are in rust free metal or inox as we name it. ( think for you it is stainless steel plate )

Would like to see the inside of the cooler and the oil lines for condition of them.

The way of reproduction you talk about is correct , i would make them the same way.

We have a press that pushes 250 ton of pressure so more than enough.

Stainless steel is a tough material to work with.

Thank u for time and effort you give me, sir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[demco32]

Arrived !!

[chistech]

5 hours ago, demco32 said:

Arrived !!

That is the book you want. It has a lot of photos too that help but some are illustrations, are engineers renderings, and they are not always 100% correct to the actual production of the car. 

[demco32]

The  restoration thread on your car is interesting.

Where is the location of the vin number on the chassis? , sir

I can't find mine and maybe it was painted over.

You wrote, 'the two areas where the serial numbers are stamped revealed nice crisp numbers matching my motor and the sill mounted data plate. It's a matching numbers car.' 

I found (with your help ) the motor number ( it was painted over too ) and i assume it is the original motor from new.

It was an expensive car to purchase and i believe the right way to go is to bring it back to as original as possible.

I don't know why they ware not sold more, maybe because of the great depression in the '30 years. 

I was driving this weekend a nice unrestored 1932 v12 model 370B convertible and if the Oldsmobile handle, drive as good , i would be very happy.

There are parts you can find in both cars so the Oldsmobile is like a little Cadillac to me.

 

Posted October 4, 2016

Here's a picture of another wire wheeled 32' that was recently for sale.

 

Yes, Ted. I'm 100% sure this is my car now.

About the radio you refer to, there is no radio in the car.

I would like to have one and convert the inside to modern radio if in '32 there was a radio available for this car.

 

I hope you don't mind me asking a lot more questions in the future as I'm going the overhaul this car front to back.

I have a leaking gearbox too so I have to repair that as wel, don't know the condition of the clutch.

Cables of brake are all different in length so braking  shall not be good, have to see for adjustment if still possible.

I'm sure to find more when i have the first drive.

Looking at your restoration thread I understand there is new parts to be offered if you know where to get them.

In Europe is nothing available.

Even spark plugs, contacts for distributor etc... are not available.