32PONTIAC Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 In need of a working sending unit like the one pictured 1932 Pontiac . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 They can be rebuilt. I had mine rebuilt and the gage calibrated. Give me a day or so to dig up that information. You also may find somebody in Hemmings that does the rebuild. The insides are fairly simple. Have you tested this one at all? Putting an ohmmeter on them should show variable resistance as the arm goes up and down. One of the things that keeps them from reading correctly is a bad ground. When you do put it back I would suggest running a ground wire from the machine screw that attaches it to the take to the chassis. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 That unit looks very similar to the 32’ olds minus the hooked vent pipe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 (edited) 19 minutes ago, chistech said: That unit looks very similar to the 32’ olds minus the hooked vent pipe. As well as the 1936 Pontiac and the 1937 Buick, and if you delete the fuel pickup as well as the vent pipe, Chevrolet. Probably not similar enough to interchange, but definitely built from the same parts bucket. I believe AC was the source. Anyone who can rebuild a 1937 Buick sender should be able to fix this one. That fitting at the end of the fuel pipe is probably a double compression threaded sleeve fitting and is impossible to find. Don't let it get away. Edited December 4, 2021 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 I repair a ton of sending units on the cars I do. It’s pretty easy actually. Drill out the two or three eyelets that hold the cover on the unit then use a thin screwdriver to gently pry the cover off. Go easy so yo don’t damage the rheostat or lose the spring loaded plunger. You can wind a new rheostat (maybe the wrong name for it!😁) if it’s broken. It’s easy to check with a continuity meter. Many times I find the brass gears and the shaft pivot points need cleaning because the float arm won’t move. The plunger is spring loaded and sometimes the spring has failed or slipped back too far. I always try to change the float to modern material and my supplier finally got them in so I just replaced the cork floats on the 30’ I’m working on right now. Get your floats from the home built plane/Piper cub guys because they don’t (pun intended), soak you. I just paid $3.80 each for poly floats designed for modern fuel. Old car parts suppliers want your first born for a two inch piece! They can have my second born, but not the first! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 it's a 0-30 ohm unit, so check it and make sure you need to take the rheostat apart before you do. Lots of other things can cause trouble, like the lack of a ground. Make sure there are no air leaks (cracks) where the fuel pickup tube sits in the crimp on top. There often are. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32PONTIAC Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 Thanks for all the info. it gives me some things to look into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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