Pat Baysinger Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 The only reason I would ever trailer my Electra would be if it breaks down, but since I plan on using it for other things too, I'm going to shop around for a good used one (open, not inclosed). I imagine one car trailer is about as good as another, but I'd like to hear some opinions about the best features. From reading for sale ads, I've seen features like single or double axle, axle rating, wood or steel floor, dove tail, ramps, tie downs, tire sizes and ply rating, wiring to operate a winch, etc. I think an 18 foot trailer would be about right for me, and I know electric brakes are a must. I also plan on installing a winch if I buy a trailer without one, so any info on that would be helpful too. Is one maufacturer any better than others? If it needs brake repair, how would you know what brand of parts to buy? I'm sure there are some good home made trailers around, but I'll probably avoid those. Did I leave anything out? Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOcarGuy Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Pat, we just bought a trailer to tow a 64 Riviera and it is a heavy car like yours and learned quite a bit. 1 you need brakes, 2 you need 2 axles 3500# each, you need a car hauler not a utility trailer they are about 6" wider and heaver duty they also have a dovetail, you need ramps also heavy duty. 6 ply tires are also good. The one we bought is good looking with diamond plate fenders. my son owns it and may sell for $2200 and it has less than 1000 miles he lives in Detroit area. mocarguy@aol.com 417 779 4775 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 28, 2003 Share Posted January 28, 2003 The height of the fenders is an important consideration which hasn't been mentioned yet. Too high, and the door to the towed car cannot be opened when the car is loaded, so you have to crawl out through the driver's window. Been there, done that!Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Ector, Texas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Pete's comments are dead on!!From what I recall some of my drag racing associates mention several years ago, there are also some considerations as to what kind of bushings (plastic, bronze, etc.) are in the suspension mountings; whether or not it's a torsion beam axle or if there are springs involved; tandem axle will work best and ride best too; type and quality of the wheel bearings; having adequately sized brakes, axles, and tires for the weight being hauled, including some extra capacity above the combined trailer and vehicle weights; signal lights and license plate lights that are visible and obvious with quality wiring that will not always be having problems; a sturdy draw bar area with safety chain provisions. There might be a few other details, but these are most of the ones I can recall. Many times, its the "unseen" items that make a good design trailer a better design trailer.Of course, no trailer is good without a suitable tow vehicle. Many people still tow with passenger cars so having suitable brakes and suspension upgrades would be in order. Most everyone down in this part of the world uses light trucks to tow with, many are 1/2 ton models but for the combined weight of the car, trailer, and "other things" at least a light duty 3/4 ton would really be better with its heavier suspension and larger brakes PLUS factory tow packages. If you have a late model GM pickup with the factory tow package and hitch, you've already got the wiring to the back with a 7-wire trailer connector plus provisions for the trailer brake controller--all without having to cut and splice wires, just plug things into the main harness. Of course, a Class III or IV Equalizer Hitch is the best way to go due to the weight and such that's involved. Others might have other orientations, especially with the tow vehicle and accessories.Just some thoughts . . .NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest n2buick Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The height of the fenders is an important consideration which hasn't been mentioned yet. Too high, and the door to the towed car cannot be opened when the car is loaded, so you have to crawl out through the driver's window. Been there, done that!Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Ector, Texas </div></div>One way around that is to get a trailer with removable fenders. It usually lowers the center of gravity by allowing the trailer bed, and therefore the car, to sit lower to the ground. Makes towing a lot easier as well.Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 Fenders which can be removed would be a neat deal, I guess, but I have not seen anyone with such a trailer in all of my car activities--not saying they don't exist. The theory sounds plausible, but most fenders are already pretty close to the top of the tires when loaded so I don't see more than an inch or two of difference at the most, unfortunately.As for having the car loaded closer to the ground, that's a good deal too, but there is also a certain relationship between the trailer and the ground AND the way the trailer end will pivot on the axles as the tow vehicle encounters dips and such. Getting the trailer too low could cause the "tail to drag" more than it normally would, thereby limiting where you could take the trailer and what driveway approaches it could easily encounter (in many cases, ramps are stowed in compartments at the end of the trailer also). I highly suspect that anyone in the car trailer business has the ground clearance/center of gravity deal pretty much figured out by now as most trailers have a height that is pretty much like all of them are.End result, the amount of load capacity will relate to tire size and diameter, which will relate to how high the fenders will be on the trailer. Those architectural items are pretty much "hard" points in the design. Knowing that car doors are pretty much in a general height range is another hard point. Trailer maximum width is another hard point as max width is regulated by most state legislatures to be basically as wide as a lane of traffic. So, with those particular criteria, plus the other issue of dragging the end of the trailer, things are pretty much in a particular ball park already, just as where the axles are placed in relationship to the center of the trailer so most of the loaded weight will be on the front end of the trailer (nose heavy automobiles notwithstanding) for tow stability.The one thing not yet mentioned would be the air deflector for the front of the trailer. This would shield the car from debris and also make it less wind resistant than if there were none, in most cases.A winch can be used to secure the vehicle at the front, but many also use ratchet tie-downs to pull from the rear of the trailer too, further securing the vehicle from any movement.As always, there are nationally known trailer manufacturers that might be better to deal with and already have many variations of trailers in their catalog for various functions and might also have warranties. Open, enclosed, and variations thereof; Wells Cargo and similar manufacturers come to mind. It seems like there's also many regional trailer manufacturers that could do credible trailers too, but you would need to know more of what you're looking at with them, I suspect, to see which one might be best. Being an informed shopper can be necessary here too.You might consider checking out the weekly drag racing events in the pits to see what others have for trailers and where they got them. These non-casual users might be a good information source as they use their trailers weekly (if not more) during race season and also usually tow some long distances during race season too (if they're chasing a points award). Just some thoughts . . .NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest n2buick Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Fenders which can be removed would be a neat deal, I guess, but I have not seen anyone with such a trailer in all of my car activities--not saying they don't exist. The theory sounds plausible, but most fenders are already pretty close to the top of the tires when loaded so I don't see more than an inch or two of difference at the most, unfortunately.NTX5467 </div></div>Here is a link to the trailers I'm familiar with (with the removeable fenders). http://www.tommystrailers.com/I've owned one for several years, and am now on my second (only because I upgraded), and have been very happy with both the trailer and the company.They have a life time warranty and tow great.Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickNut Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 As long as we're on the subject, what makes a good tow vehicle if you're only towing once in a great while (when the darn thing breaks down far from home..) ? Could you get by with a small truck ('V6 Ranger 4x4), or would it make more sense to just go to U-Haul, rent a truck and one of those car "dollies" that only carry either front or rear tires off the ground ? Just curious.......... I always wondered given that I have only hauled with my Ranger once and only 5 miles to store the car, if it wouldn't make sense to just rent....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riv2x4 Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 I have an 01 Suburban 1/2 ton 2wd with Posi and a 4:10 rear end. It has the factory tow package and is rated at 8800# towing capacity. Remember to add the weight of the car, trailer and any other tools, parts and stuff. I look at a loaded trailer with a 60's Buick at about 7,000 lbs + or - a bit depending on the type of trailer. It could be more for an enclosed. The factory weight doesn't include options like air conditioning. The new 4wd 1drive 1/2 ton suburban with the 3:73 rear end have about a 7100# capacity. No margin for error and way to close to capacity for me. It isn't such a big deal for a few miles to put it in storage but for a longer haul it is no fun at all. It is getting harder to find something in 1/2 ton with the higher tow ratings. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest n2buick Posted January 31, 2003 Share Posted January 31, 2003 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As for having the car loaded closer to the ground, that's a good deal too, but there is also a certain relationship between the trailer and the ground AND the way the trailer end will pivot on the axles as the tow vehicle encounters dips and such. Getting the trailer too low could cause the "tail to drag" more than it normally would, thereby limiting where you could take the trailer and what driveway approaches it could easily encounter (in many cases, ramps are stowed in compartments at the end of the trailer also). I highly suspect that anyone in the car trailer business has the ground clearance/center of gravity deal pretty much figured out by now as most trailers have a height that is pretty much like all of them are.Just some thoughts . . .NTX5467 </div></div>Here is a picture of a trailer like mine. Due to the 4" drop torsion axles, it sits 14" off the ground. Keeps the car lower, and in turn the center of gravity lower. The suspension design is independent, so there is minimal pivot of the trailer. It's also aluminum, so with my car loaded it only weighs about 5100 #s. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riv2x4 Posted January 31, 2003 Share Posted January 31, 2003 How much does that trailer weigh? I like the all aluminum for weight reduction but 5100 lbs sounds a little low unless the trailer comes in around 600 pounds. Your Riv has to be mid 4000's, I'm not sure about the others.Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest n2buick Posted January 31, 2003 Share Posted January 31, 2003 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much does that trailer weigh? I like the all aluminum for weight reduction but 5100 lbs sounds a little low unless the trailer comes in around 600 pounds. Your Riv has to be mid 4000's, I'm not sure about the others.Larry </div></div>Larry, I usually don't trailer my Riviera, what I am normally trailering is my GSX or my GS convertible. Both of those weigh a little over 3700 lbs. The 20' trailer weighs 1350. That puts it at 5050. My trailer is a little longer, so I am a little over 5100.I posted a link to the trailer dealer in an earlier post. Their site has a lot of information on the specifications.I tow my set up with a V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it does great.Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom Posted January 31, 2003 Share Posted January 31, 2003 Great info here. Comes at the right time as I am looking for a trailer to tow my 59 Invicta 2 dr hardtop to Flint. Just bought a new Trailblazer, but at the time I ordered it, I wasn't thinking about pulling anything with it. It has a towing capacity of 5200#'s, but the car weighs almost 4300#'s, which doesn't leave much for the trailer. The trailers I've researched (steel) all weigh 1800#'s or more. Anyone know of a good place to rent a truck from that is heavy enough to tow this combination? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 1, 2003 Share Posted February 1, 2003 I will readily admit that I've had limited exposure to TommysTrailers, usually seeing ads for them in car hobby publications. That's why I was not aware of the "fender" deal with them. I believe that FeatherLite also has similar products as I've seen their ads in National Dragster.Most of my drag racing associates either have an open trailer they tow behind a 3/4 ton pickup with a camper shell or have an enclosed trailer. I don't recall seeing too many (if any) TommysTrailers in that crowd. I do know that TommysTrailers have always been considered to be a premium product and priced higher than the normal type trailers. But, as with everything else, you tend to get what you pay for.When FeatherLite trailers branched out into horse trailers, many of our custoemrs got them and were amazed at how much easier they towed due to their lighter weight. More money, naturally, than the normal trailers they were more used to, but worth it. That's where the "value judgment call" comes into play . . .One of my friends used his father's pickup to tow his enclosed car trailer. It was a F-150 extended cab 4x4 with the 351HO motor. Sounds good enough, it seems, but on their way to Ohio the first time, with a midsize car in the trailer, their gear, and three of them in the truck, in the Tennessee hills, it was 85mph in the valleys and 35mph at the top of the hills (flat out, with the 85mph necessary to get to the 35mph at best at the top). Fuel economy would have made a 454 C30 blush!Prior to the next year, the F-150 was traded for a similar F-250 (8600+ lb GVW) extended cab with a 460 V-8, still 4x4. Same route, same loaded trailer, etc. and it would pull the tops of the hills at reasonable speeds without the "run" at them. Fuel economy also went UP 2 or 3 mpg too (to about 9mpg towing). Much nicer to drive too! Better to have a big motor that "loafs" under load instead of a smaller motor that's straining all of the time.As for the 4x4 tow vehicle orientation, that's something I came to realize might be better. I noticed that many of our customers that towed large travel trailers were using K20 4x4 Suburbans instead of normal vehicles. Typically, conventional wisdom indicated that 4x4 is for "off road" activities until you realize that towing in 4WD HI would distribute the driving forces throughout the whole chassis instead of having them centered just with the rear axle. The additional fuel (usually about 1mpg or so less) would pay for itself in better durability on the total vehicle. Plus, losing that little bit of fuel economy in a tow situation would not be that noticeable, all things considered.Again, just observations over the years . . . your experiences might vary.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Baysinger Posted February 5, 2003 Author Share Posted February 5, 2003 Well, it took me a while to get back here, and I see lot's of good information. I was also glad to see someone tows with a Jeep Grand Cherokee, since I'll either be using that, or my Dodge Grand Caravan, maybe. I appreciate all the comments and the websites too. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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