Need Modern Points Identified Please

[hddennis]

Going through photos I've saved off the internet and ran across this Atwater-Kent distributor conversion to modern points that I saved because I thought it was a neat idea. Trouble is, I forgot to find out what the modern points fit! Does anyone recognize what they fit or a modern manufacturers  part number?

 

Thanks in advance for any help,

Howard Dennis

Edited May 22, 2021 by hddennis (see edit history)

[The 55er]

Might be this common older Ford product set. Info is from a Standard Ignition catalog.

Edited May 21, 2021 by The 55er
Added picture of actual set of points. (see edit history)

[Bloo]

That's going to need a modern coil, too I think. AK's "hook and snap" points have a dwell time so short it is almost unmeasureable. Is that what it had? If so I would expect the original coil not to be able to handle the long dwell of Kettering style points without burning up. It is a neat idea, but proceed with caution.

[hddennis]

The55er and Bloo, thanks a million for this information. And bloo I really appreciate the warning you may have saved a valuable original coil!

 

Howard Dennis

[hddennis]

Bloo, here's what the stock distributor looks like.

Howard Dennis

[Bloo]

I have an Atwater Kent ignition for a Hupmobile, and even though it has points and a condenser it does not really run on the same principle as the Kettering ignition, the one we all (well, almost all) use. From the description, this one may be more normal.

 

In my distributor, the points are not closed between cylinders.There is a hook and snap mechanism, The turning cap hooks some little part that loads up a spring and then SNAP! the point overtravels and makes contact for an instant only, firing the coil.

 

If the original points in yours have no snap mechanism, and more importantly if your points stay closed inbetween cylinders, ignore my comment about hurting the coil.

 

One other thing to watch for when substituting points is the rotor phasing. On a distributor that you can buy parts for you would drill a hole in an old distributor cap so you can see. On this I suspect you might have to fashion a pointer so you can see just where the rotor is when the points open, and then compare the new to the old. It would really be lucky if the rubbing block landed in the right spot, but maybe.

 

 

Edited May 22, 2021 by Bloo (see edit history)

[hddennis]

Bloo, I have to admit understanding electronics as a whole is a weak point for me. Based on what you have shown I think I have more normal points in my Atwater-Kent distributor. My photo shows my original points with a modern condensor conversion I did. If you look to the right of the wire coming from the coil you can see the 7/16 bolt that allows the arm driving this distributor to be changed to time the distributor. Would this address your concern about rotor phasing?