Reatta Stereo Wattage Rating?

[poncho]

The front speakers on my '89 are totally fizzled out and only the left rear one is in good shape. I'm going to replace them with them a set of pioneers all the way around. However, I don't want to purchase speakers that are over or underpowered. Does anyone know the wattage rating of the stock radio speaker outputs? I'm assuming that the ratings are a little higher than most vehicles because the existing rear speakers still sound pretty loud and bass-y. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

[Guest BREH]

Don't know about watts .Replaced rears in a 90 vert.Bought at dealer

they were 10 O H M speakers as original. You can do a search here

a learn more than you want to know.

[2seater]

I don't know if anyone has actually measured it but I did ask when I had mine repaired several years ago. This was apparently an educated guess based on the outputs, which was 7-10 watts RMS per channel. I don't know if this is accurate or not but I installed a Pioneer CD/radio in it's place which is only 17 watts rms per channel and it is way more powerful.

[Guest]

I doubt you could buy any aftermarket name brand speaker that wouldn't be able to handle the Reatta system's power output. Call Crutchfield for advice.

[Guest Pudgee]

I changed the original 4x10 '90, convert rears to 4ohms 2-ways since that was all I could find and added 6 ohm ceramic audio resistor to each to make up the difference, but I'm not too impressed with the fidelity. I'm ready to pull the door panels off to change those...I bought 5.25" 3-ways also 4 ohm and and will probably add 5.5 ohm resistors and will probably leave the tweeters in line, but if they sound as poor as the rear replacements, I may recone the originals. ...I changed the 6 problematic radio capacitors under the heat-sink this past weekend and the sound quality of the radio has vastly improved, but the high pitch static sound in the left channel after it heats up has been replaced with a low static on bass bumps. I hope it is the speaker's fault, but not likely. Are there any schematics floating around?

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

I changed the original 4x10 '90, convert rears to 4ohms 2-ways since that was all I could find and added 6 ohm ceramic audio resistor to each to make up the difference, but I'm not too impressed with the fidelity. I'm ready to pull the door panels off to change those...I bought 5.25" 3-ways also 4 ohm and and will probably add 5.5 ohm resistors and will probably leave the tweeters in line, but if they sound as poor as the rear replacements, I may recone the originals. ...I changed the 6 problematic radio capacitors under the heat-sink this past weekend and the sound quality of the radio has vastly improved, but the high pitch static sound in the left channel after it heats up has been replaced with a low static on bass bumps. I hope it is the speaker's fault, but not likely. Are there any schematics floating around?

Go here and obtain login:

Reatta Data Page

then go here:

http://reatta.net/docs/radio_88/88_radio_manual_3e.pdf

[Guest Richard D]

My guess is no more than 15 watts per channel RMS at four ohms. Most aftermarket units that claim 35 watts per channel are rated at 10% distortion. Unless the amp has a switching power supply to raise the rail voltage to around 60 volts about 15 watts is the best you can get with a 12-14 volt supply. My .02

[NCReatta]

Go with the tired and true Infinity Kappas. If I were you, I would upgrade your speaker brackets and speakers in the rear to the 90/91 style 6x9" speakers. More bass, and much better sounding over all.

Both the 5.25 for the doors, and the 6x9" rears are available in the Infinity Kappa line.

I have upgrade brackets for the 6x9" speakers available too.

[Guest K_lo]

Go with the tired and true Infinity Kappas. If I were you, I would upgrade your speaker brackets and speakers in the rear to the 90/91 style 6x9" speakers. More bass, and much better sounding over all.

Both the 5.25 for the doors, and the 6x9" rears are available in the Infinity Kappa line.

I have upgrade brackets for the 6x9" speakers available too.

Hey. On the 5.25 Infinity door speakers, how do you have the tweeter's db button set, 0db or

-3db? Just curious as to what you prefer.

[NCReatta]

Hey. On the 5.25 Infinity door speakers, how do you have the tweeter's db button set, 0db or

-3db? Just curious as to what you prefer.

On my '89 coupe with the 6x9"s in the rear, I keep them up the 0db setting. It evens out the highs with the lows that the large speakers produce in the back. However, in my '90 convertible, sine it only has 4x10" speakers in the rear, I keep them on -3 so I can not get blown out of the car with 6 tweeters on full blast and not much bass.

[wws944]

Richard D. is correct that with the 12v power supply, 15 watts or so RMS per channel is probably about right for the factory unit. (Higher power amps have built-in power supplies to provide higher voltages.)

I would ditch the 6 ohm resistors. Note that the stock front system is already a 4 ohm system. So it follows that the amplifiers in the stereo are already designed for 4 ohm loads. If you find you need to balance things a bit, use the front/rear fader adjustment.

Edited July 3, 2012 by wws944 (see edit history)

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

For all those wanting to "match" the oem speakers, I would try partsexpress.com they carry almost anything you want in speakers and are fair on the price. Also as stated be fore get some entry level 4 ohms you will be happy with the sound you get, if you were happy with the stock, and the oem wattage is no more than 15 watts rms as the amplifier chip they used cannot put out more than that.