88 Buick Reatta Headlight Struggle

[Bertimus]

I was giving a superficial cleaning under the hood today (including around the headlight motors), and when I went to move my 88 Reatta back to it's usual parking space, I noticed the driver side headlight would kind of flutter and almost raise but then just shut. The bulb itself is working fine. I tried opening it manually using the turn dial, but it felt very loose to turn and didn't do anything (the passenger's side dial feels tight and does lift the headlight when turned). I can lift headlight by hand and it stays up. It also goes back down along with the passenger side just fine with the dash control. Any thoughts/suggestions/wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Edited December 7, 2020 by Bertimus (see edit history)

[DAVES89]

The crank arm between the motor and headlight bucket is worn. Looks like you need a replacement. Barney sells them. He is the technical advisor for the Reatta and will probably weigh in.

[Barney Eaton]

As noted by Dave........the Reatta headlight have two common problems.

The first problem is the arm (bellcrank) that attaches to the motor shaft.   Note in the picture with the red background, the center hole needs to have 

flat sides.... as it wears, the center hole starts to look like a "bowtie", and finally it will just rotate on the motor shaft. 

This part is a zinc casting which is soft,  new original parts are not available and that is good because they would also wear.  

(Commercial) I sell a steel bellcrank that I warranty for as long as you own the car.  It is a modified part from a Pontiac.  They are $35 each including instructions and shipping. 

(2) Second issue is inside the motor....  see brown background picture.... there are 3 plastic rollers that lock the motor output shaft to the big white gear.

We think GM put them in as a "clutch" but they see lots of torque and crack over time.   Once they crack the action inside the motor grinds them into small pieces and you get

a lot of slop because the small pieces shift and pack in the crevices.      The plastic rollers are available on Ebay and other places.... I also have them and sell a KIT that has the bellcrank, 3 rollers, a UPSTOP plastic

nut, instructions and shipping for $40

 

Additional words of caution......if the car has been driven in the rust belt....where they use salt on the roads for ice and snow.... that salty water get in the motor cover screws (there are 3) and they often

break when you attempt to change the rollers.   Some people have luck soaking the screws with solvents,  but I have not found any method that works consistently.    So if you break a screw,  then it needs to be 

drilled out and the threads chased....   The screws are 8 -32 and case hardened so you need a very good bit to drill out the hard screw.    I use carbide drills.  

For owners that are going to have a mechanic do the work,  I offer a rebuilt motor.... so the mechanic spends less time on the job... I charge $50 exchange for the motor and there is a difference between the right

and left side.

 

One new problem has developed on these 30 year old cars..... see green background picture.... the output shaft has knurls that are intended to hold the grey cast part on the shaft.   We have seen a few where 

the shaft and cast part have become disengaged.    It is not a huge problem but I mention it in the event you are working on your motor,  check the shaft to make certain it is tight in the casting. 

 

Edited December 7, 2020 by Barney Eaton (see edit history)

[Bertimus]

6 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

As noted by Dave........the Reatta headlight have two common problems.

The first problem is the arm (bellcrank) that attaches to the motor shaft.   Note in the picture with the red background, the center hole needs to have 

flat sides.... as it wears, the center hole starts to look like a "bowtie", and finally it will just rotate on the motor shaft. 

This part is a zinc casting which is soft,  new original parts are not available and that is good because they would also wear.  

(Commercial) I sell a steel bellcrank that I warranty for as long as you own the car.  It is a modified part from a Pontiac.  They are $35 each including instructions and shipping. 

(2) Second issue is inside the motor....  see brown background picture.... there are 3 plastic rollers that lock the motor output shaft to the big white gear.

We think GM put them in as a "clutch" but they see lots of torque and crack over time.   Once they crack the action inside the motor grinds them into small pieces and you get

a lot of slop because the small pieces shift and pack in the crevices.      The plastic rollers are available on Ebay and other places.... I also have them and sell a KIT that has the bellcrank, 3 rollers, a UPSTOP plastic

nut, instructions and shipping for $40

 

Additional words of caution......if the car has been driven in the rust belt....where they use salt on the roads for ice and snow.... that salty water get in the motor cover screws (there are 3) and they often

break when you attempt to change the rollers.   Some people have luck soaking the screws with solvents,  but I have not found any method that works consistently.    So if you break a screw,  then it needs to be 

drilled out and the threads chased....   The screws are 8 -32 and case hardened so you need a very good bit to drill out the hard screw.    I use carbide drills.  

For owners that are going to have a mechanic do the work,  I offer a rebuilt motor.... so the mechanic spends less time on the job... I charge $50 exchange for the motor and there is a difference between the right

and left side.

 

One new problem has developed on these 30 year old cars..... see green background picture.... the output shaft has knurls that are intended to hold the grey cast part on the shaft.   We have seen a few where 

the shaft and cast part have become disengaged.    It is not a huge problem but I mention it in the event you are working on your motor,  check the shaft to make certain it is tight in the casting. 

 

@Barney Eaton

thank you for your reply I sent you a message with a few more questions